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About Longbox55

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  • Scale I Build 1:25

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  • Location Danville Il
  • Full Name Bill Burmeister

Longbox55's Activity

  1. Longbox55 added a topic in 1:1 Truck Reference Pictures   

    Quick Chevrolet Task Force '55-'59 ID guide
    The topic came up the other day about identifying the '55-57 Chevrolet trucks, mainly the heavier models. This is a boy style truck I'm very knowledgeable about, so I thought I would put together a quick ID guide on how to differentiate the years for both light and heavy duty models. Please take note, while I did try to get as many unaltered stock truck pictures as possible, some of the trucks pictured are not 100% stock.
    Starting with the '55s, they can be spotted by the shape and location of their emblems and badging, as well as the egg crate grille in light trucks. The hood emblem is a squashed T shape, with a recessed section painted black with a red Bowtie. The black section also has a checkerboard pattern in it. The side badges are spear shaped, with a raised section at the rear where the model number is. It also has a recess along its length with the Chevrolet block letter script in it. The area around the letters can be either filled with white or plain, I've seen them both ways in factory pictures, as well as in person. This badge was only used on light trucks, never on HD trucks. The grille is similar to the Passenger car in that is uses an egg crate design, with a more coarse pattern, thicker bars, and an inverted trapezoid shape. This grille was available in both white and chrome. HD models use a barbell shaped grille insert, with CHEVROLET spelled out on it in block letters. The HD grille was only available in white, or optionally, body color. Interiors on all models except Cameo Carrier are beige with a brown seat. Top of the dash was either texture finish brown or black, with a black steering column and wheel. Cameo Carrier has a 2 tone red and white interior.
    http://ayay.co.uk/backgrounds/transport/cars/1955-Chevrolet-Task-Force-Pickup-Green-fvl. '55 3100, very high option truck, note the optional, and very rare, hood bird.
    http://blog.brotherstrucks.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/1955-chevy-pickup-second-series-6.jpg Another 3100, this more of a base model truck
    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uzZn26i4EmM/UBvrMb9uw3I/AAAAAAAAA7c/5Cky7jEkrvk/s1600/C6-2.jpg Another base model truck. Note that while the grille, bumper, and headlamp trim are painted, the hood badge, fender badges, and door handles are still chrome. I only point that out as I have seen some builds inaccurately  have those parts painted on base model trucks.
    http://image.trucktrend.com/f/webonly/1401_ahrens_fox_diamond_t_volkswagen_saturdays_barrett_jackson_top_sellers/65395612/1955-chevrolet-cameo-pickup-lot-1248-barrett-jackson-2014.jpg Cameo Carrier. New model for '55, only available in Bombay Ivory/Commercial Red 2 tone. This truck is also a V8.
    This is my own '55 Chevy truck, which I have posted pics of before. It's a model 3200, also new for '55. It's a 1/2 ton long bed truck, built using the 3/4 ton frame with 1/2 ton running gear.
    http://www.desertclassics.com/Sold4/image/Chev55flatbed6400x1.jpg Model 6400 2 ton. The 4000 series 1 1/2 tons are visually identical. Note the fender badge that is only the model number.
    http://lh6.ggpht.com/_j4KZejRNzLc/Rw1vuKPkLaI/AAAAAAAAA98/R13v0HIO6Po/Chev.%2B55.jpg Low Cab Forward, another new for '55 model. This took the place of the COE models, as there are no COE Task Force or Blue Chip (GMC) trucks. Only model in the '55-'59 linup that has the V8 as standard equipment. Running gear is the same as the 2 ton 6000 series, but could be optioned as a "special" with 1 1/2 ton running gear
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  2. Longbox55 added a post in a topic Can someone show me a 1920s or '30s box truck?   

    You might take a look in here. http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/
  3. Longbox55 added a post in a topic Clearcoat   

    This one is done using Pearl-X Interference Red mixed into Paint Shop clear. It also has some Cherry Red Recollections flake added in, and is shot right over the black, no different base coat under it. Not really the effect I was after, but it turned out ok.

  4. Longbox55 added a post in a topic Yet another paint question re: clear coats   

    What you want to watch for with polishing compounds is whether it is paintable or not. Paintable compounds will not have silicone in it, and can be used to polish the base coats prior to clear. I use Turtle wax compounds myself, they've done what I need them to do.
  5. Longbox55 added a post in a topic Clearcoat   

    You're going to find that most "glitter" is going to be really too coarse for scale use, and will also clog up your airbrush. Pearl-X, as mentioned by Frank, works very well, and is very fine for the most part. Their "sparkle" metallics are a bit chunkier that their regular pearls, but they only come in gold and copper. They also have a macro pearl that is a white color, but under a candy/transparent color topcoat, it makes for a very chunky metalflake. So far, other than Pearl-X, the only other glitter/metalflake I've found in retail that seems to spray well is Recollections Extra Fine, which so far I've only found at Micheal's. It does ok through an airbrush, but takes lots of coats to really get any sort of noticeable effect, and will take several coats of clear over that to smooth it out.
    My clear of choice when using any sort of powder additive is Duplicolor Paint Shop, it seems to hold the powder in suspension a little better. even then, it still needs agitated every once in a while shooting to keep it mixed. I tend to use the old "hold your finger over the tip and shoot some air" trick, which backflushes the airbrush back into the cup/jar. I use the air to agitate the paint.
  6. Longbox55 added a post in a topic Yet another paint question re: clear coats   

    I've used all 3. The Wet Look and Ultra Gloss seem to be pretty much identical to me. They lay down the same, and seem to have the same amount to gloss to them. IIRC, the Ultra Gloss was released first, as part of the Custom Lacquer system line, which as pretty much all factory type colors.
    The Gloss Clear Lacquer seems to orange peel, or at least that's been my experience with it. it's more or less the same as the old Glosscote that's in the Testors line.
    While I do have both the Wet Look and Ultra Gloss in my paint arsenal, plus Tamiya gloss and matte clears, my go-to clear lately has been Duplicolor Paint Shop, plus occasionally their acrylic lacquer in the regular Duplicolor line . All 3 seem to work well over the each others base colors, and I do tend to use them interchangeably at times.
  7. Longbox55 added a post in a topic Windows 10   

    I switched to it a couple days ago, so far, so good. Only gripes I have is that it didn't save any of my passwords on my favorites, and I had to completely reset my screen image size. Other than that, it's working great.
  8. Longbox55 added a post in a topic What distinguishes a 1955 1956 1957 Chevrolet truck?   

    Where is would be odd is that the government pretty much always went with the lowest price they could on vehicles like that. The V8 would have been an extra cost, and given the torque curve on the standard 235, the I6 is actually the better choice. While the 265 does have a higher torque output overall, the 235 has a relatively flat torque curve, almost like comparing a modern gas engine to a Diesel. There was also fuel consumption, the 6 being far more economical to run. Even on civilian trucks, the 6 is far more common in the Conventional '55-'59 Chevrolets that the V8s (LCF trucks are an exception, all of those are V8, no option). Another variant that would more likely see a V8 in would be the Tandems, which were common with the Loadmaster 322 V8.
    You make mention of the Dodge trucks from the era, I would suspect the majority of those used for government contracts were 6 cylinder as well, the WM300 Power Wagons would be for sure, no V8 option was available on those.
    With the GMCs, again, comes down to cost. GMC were more expensive than a comparable Chevrolet. You would have to get into the 3 ton and larger to really see GMCs for government trucks, Chevrolet didn't have anything over a 2 1/2 ton during that period.
  9. Longbox55 added a post in a topic What distinguishes a 1955 1956 1957 Chevrolet truck?   

    That one is a '59. The hood emblem and what you can see of the fender badge is the giveaway.
    I don't think they are the same truck. The one you posted is not a Napco, but a standard 4000/6000  truck. The badge on this one that is below the model emblem is a V8 badge. Somewhat odd for a government vehicle.
  10. Longbox55 added a post in a topic What distinguishes a 1955 1956 1957 Chevrolet truck?   

    Just for comparison, here's the '55 and '57.
    '55s  http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/douglas_andrew_1955.html
    '57s http://www.stovebolt.com/gallery/droege_matt_1957_02.html 
    Plus, since they are mentioned, this is a '55 1rst
  11. Longbox55 added a post in a topic 1925 Ford model T touring car   

    If you can't find the AMT '27, the Revell '27 Touring body will also work.
  12. Longbox55 added a post in a topic AMT PRESTIGE SERIES   

    The regular issue had the fuel injection unit, I have both kits, the scripts, hardtop, and hubcaps are the main differences. I believe the Prestige version also has a more accurate air filter housing for the carbureted version that the regular issue kit.
  13. Longbox55 added a post in a topic What distinguishes a 1955 1956 1957 Chevrolet truck?   

    It's a '56. Here's the clues that identify it. One, the flat hood. All '57 Chevrolet and GMC trucks have the twin "bullets" on the hood, whether they have the gunsight trim or not. The other giveaway clue is the side trim. That spear, which is 2 piece, is unique to the '56. The '55 2nds have a similar one peice side trim piece mounted lower on the fender, but only on the 1/2 through 1 ton pickups. Big truck, 1 1/2  and 2 ton only have the series number designation in chrome numbers on the fender. '56 got the spear on all trucks, 1/2 through 2 1/2 ton. The '57s have a different side trim, more of an elongated egg shape, with an oval towards the rear of the emblem with the series designation. It mounts in the same location as the '56, though. A third item is the hood emblem. Only used on '56 and '57, the giveaway is the color scheme, '56 is black with a red Bowtie, '57 is reversed, red with a black bowtie.
  14. Longbox55 added a post in a topic Another reason to like older cars!   

    I should be fine, then. My "new" vehicle is an '85, and the daily driver is a '55!
  15. Longbox55 added a topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials   

    New take on an old trick; Tire Sanding Tool
    So, most of us know about the old tire sanding tool made from a bolt trick. For those who don't know about it, basically, it involves cutting the head off a 5/16 or 3/8 bolt to allow it to be chucked in a drill, then trapping the kit tire between a couple of nuts and washers. Well, I was sanding some tires a few weeks ago, and having a little trouble keeping them square on the arbor. Got me thinking "This would work better if there was a good way of centering it. Like if it has a cone like a tire balancer or brake lathe uses". Did a little thinking about how to make a cone, and after a little trial by error, this is what I came up with.

    As you can see, it's not really much different, only replacing the inner nut and washer with a cast resin cone. Here it is with a tire installed.

    Fabrication was pretty simple, once I figured out a good way to do it. For the cone, I used a small funnel for the mold, packing the bottom of it with non hardening clay. Originally, I has intended to simply cast the cone, the drill it, bt decided that casting the bolt shank in the cone would work better. The bolt was centered into the funnel, with extra clay packed around the threads up to the level of the bottom of the taper of the funnel. I also checked the centering with a fender washer placed on the bolt higher up. Once satisfied with the position, resin was poured, then the fender washer was replaced on to hold t centered. Some minor trimming after, and cleaning up the threads, I now have a tire sander that will positively center any 1/24-1/25 passenger and light truck tire. Nice thing is, if I need a larger one, it can be easily made with the same procedure, just higher up in the taper of the funnel.
    It also came in handy for truing up the tire shown in the pic. It is an M&H from an AMT tire set, and I was pretty shocked at how out of wonky it was in the tread. It's now perfectly true, and has a nice even sanded surface.
    I'll add some more pix, as I am planning to make a larger one for 1/16 scale and larger truck tires.
    • 2 replies