Just a note for the sake of accuracy, especially for Replica Stock; Most OEM battery cables are black for both positive and negative, with either a red boot /plastic cover (top post) or red terminal end (side post) to denote which is the positive on late model cars. In addition, many older cars used a bare braided strap for the negative instead of an insulated cable.
Project X as it appears now. This is the most well known version, from the movie Hollywood Knights, which is also it appeared through most of the '70s and '80s. This during its sting as a back halved prod street car back in the late '80s I'm having a hard time finding good pictures of it from the early years ('65-'77), I'll have to check my personal archives to see if I still have the issue of Popular Hotrodding that has the history of the car, including early pics from when they first got it. IIRC, it was a salmon colored 283 Powerglide car originally.
Revell's new tool Bel Air would be the closest to start with. It will have to be de-trimmed down to a 210, though, depending on which version of it you're wanting to build (it currently does have Bel Air trim on it).
Just taking a quick look through some of my sources, 1965 is the last year that they show the backup lamps as an option. I'll have to look a little deeper, but I do seem to recall that they were made standard equipment for '66.
I just used water, and it worked really well. This was after letting the body soak in the degreaser for a day. I did use the heat function that the HF version I posted the link to has, it seemed to help as well. Just be careful with how hot you let it get. I was using with a resin JF body, and it got a bit "wobbley" after a few cycles. I will admit to having used degreaser in the ultrasonic cleaner with decent results, but I do not suggest it, as it can be corrosive to the electronics. It won't hurt the tub, as it is stainless steel.
Correct me if I'm mistaken, but are mixing the paint in the cup/bottle for the airbrush itself? If so, that might be part of the problem, as you may be getting ticker paint that's not properly reduced in the bottom of the cup. It is always best to mix your paint in a separate container, then transfer to the cup/bottle for the airbrush itself. Dose cups/Epoxy missing cups work very well for that.
I agree. I've managed to get the John Deere tractor and backhoe, and the Massey 1155, plus the Deere and Massey wagons. I came across the Sprit of '76 Massey at a show, but it was a little more than I had to spend at the time. The IH is getting really hard to find, and is pricey when you do find it. It does make me wonder who has the molds, if Ertl/Takara-Tomy has them or if they're in Round 2s inventory.
Unfortunately, Ertl die cast farm tractors do not come in 1/24 or 1/25 scale. But measuring things like Ace suggested, and perhaps sickig with the 1/32 scale tractors they offer, one could probably come up with something usable. In addition, there are a few companies that do make 1/24 and 1/24 scale farm and construction equipment, Scale Models has a few, and the mentioned Kubota die cast as well. I'm not really sure why Ertl (now owned by Takara-Tomy) does not produce their die cast in 1/24-1/25 scale, considering that they do produce many die cast trucks with farm related paint schemes. Only thing I can think of is that 1/16 is the traditional scale for toy farm equipment, with 1/32 and 1/64 working easily off that scale for smaller versions.