Any of the lye based purple degreasers will dissolve aluminum. That's why you never want to use it to strip die cast, as it will dissolve the metal. The tube you used must have been some pretty thick wall tubing, or your degreaser was getting weak, if anything was left after 5+ days, as I have seen fresh Superclean completely dissolve an aluminum soda can (it was a Tahitian Treat can) in under 30 minutes.
I gave it try on clear parts. Installed a couple headlamp lenses in their bezels from an AMT '57 Chevy truck. Worked great! Since it doesn't set up until you hit it with the led, it was very easy to align the lenses correctly, and it set up just fine, even through the clear plastic. No hazing at all, everything is crystal clear.
The Createx Auto Air line is aqueous based, however, you do not thin with water. You will need their reducer. In addition, you will also need the proper respirator. The specification for the respirator is noted on the bottle.
I know I'm bringing an old topic back up, but I picked up some Bondic over the weekend while I was in Indy for the Circle City model show. Found it at the Hobbytown USA in Greenwood. Haven't done much with it, yet, but do see some potential areas where it would come in handy. I do plan to try it on clear parts, mainly to see if the UV light can cure it through the clear plastic. I'm hoping the plastic will not filter out the UV, and allow it to cure.
The Testors program is very basic, primarily just premade designs, some blank license plates, letter fonts, and a freeform blank page. They also have an expanded content option from the Sure Thing (which is their supplier) site that greatly expands the available premade content. The freeform blank page is really the best part of the program, great for making signage, plus you can resize images to whatever size you need. I use it with images of plates I have from other sources. The Testors decal paper is ok, Sure Thing is identical. I find that the best way to do them is to let the ink dry overnight to get a full cure before applying the bonder. Clear lacquer which is what their bonder essentially is) will also work for sealing them. The decals on this one, except for the contingency decals on the fenders, were all made using the Testors/Sure Thing program and paper.