dwayne, i see lots of OPINIONS here. you may well be able to build a 1/8 scale tube chassis drag car chassis from styrene. i suppose if you can keep ALL of the pieces very lightweight, it's a possibility. i don't suppose the people who are telling you to take this gigantic leap of faith, care to show us their successfully finished 1/8 styrene drag car chassis? pictures of these cars would be a huge help to dwayne, i'm sure.
for me, it's a chance i'm NOT willing to take. i have found that some of these aftermarket lightweight pieces can be inaccurate and / or expensive. that's IF they're selling what you actually want. i make my own stuff. it can be quite heavy, thus making a styrene chassis not an option. for instance i weighed the sonny leonard chevy hemi i did not to long ago. no oil pan, no oil system, no headers. it weighed 12 oz. resin block, renshape heads, aluminum valve covers. my 36x17x16 rear slicks (solid neoprene because, no one makes them) with the aluminum wheels weigh in at over 20 oz....each.
so,.......i will stick to my "the safe thing to do is build it from brass dwayne." comment. i'll be happy to show you recent pics of my 1/8 scale tube chassis cars. still standing, not sagging or broken.
chris, you continue to raise the "self improvement bar" to new heights. i just hope "we" can keep up!!! hehe. awesome work!! by the way you should get those throttle linkages done in 1/8 while you're at it. i foresee a need for them.
dwayne, nice trailer. i agree with tim. very well execution on the trailer. as far as wheels and tires go have you looked at traxxis wheels for the force funny cars? there is a plastic set and an aluminum set. in the world of 1/8 parts, it doesn't get much cheaper.
if you would love to build a 1/8 iroc into a fastest street car........then you should. do the research, do the prep work and do the deal. the ONLY thing holding you back is you. i'm one of those large scale guys who fabricates almost all of my own stuff. even helped a few people here and there. i'll leave you with some pics of my 10.5 camaro and my unfinished pro mod camaro. maybe they will inspire you to take the plunge into this type of model building.
'82 outlaw 10.5
'69 pro mod
you will be surprised at what you can accomplish if you put your mind and energy into it.
great style of car to model. i like that style of car myself. would be cool to see some else do some 1/8 versions of pro street/ pro mod style cars. the camaro has SOOO many possibilities. hope to see you build one.
the TDR unit is an accurate lenco cs3. i don't know what the kit is but, i would guess it supposed to be a cs1. the cs3 case is shorter in each section, making the overall length shorter. the cs3 is used in the mountain motor pro stock classes and is rated for 1800 h.p. hope this helps.
most billet blocks hover around the $10,000 mark.
why a billet block? while i'm sure "because they can" is a viable answer but,........
how about they can machined lighter than a cast aluminum block. a billet block is 30 -40 % stronger than a cast aluminum block. if it is a forged billet it can be 60-70% stronger than a cast aluminum block. a cast aluminum block could not live long (if at all) with the amount of horsepower today's engine builders are making. from the nitro classes to the alcohol classes, pro mod, and all of the outlaw classes that allow billet blocks. whether it's supercharged, turbo'd, nitrous injected or a combination. you're looking at from 3000 horsepower to 10,000 horsepower. you would be amazed at the amount of billet blocks in just the drag racing world.
a billet/ forged billet block repairs / welds better than a cast aluminum block.
the BEST part about a billet block is you can create whatever hybrid design you desire. you want the cam bore moved up, you can do that. want special lifter bore diameter, spacing or lifter angles, you can do that. special cylinder bore centerlines, you can do that. want a cross bolt main on your chevy big block or a splayed four bolt cap on your chrysler hemi, you can do that. special deck height. there is almost nothing that can't be done.
now, here's the bestest, best part. if you think billet blocks are expensive, imagine the cost to have one, new, one of a kind, block cast at a foundary all of the new patterns/ molds and then the cost to heat treat and machine the casting. you'll find $10,000 for a billet block to be a bargain.