bill's first comment is spot on. " As is often the case with model cars, the best way to do this is like you'd do it on a real one." so here is some real stuff. here's a shot of jason lines car (i did not take this photo, i found it on the internet.) the red circles show the attaching points. the forward part of the front end is supported by a tubing frame work that slips into some "c" shaped catches on the lower frame rail. the ones you see on lines car are bolt on titainium. the back is attached with dzus buttons (lower backside of the front fender and across the cowl / windsheild area.
this is a photo i took of jason lines car in 2013, when they still had scoops. you can see some of the support tubing in the front end.
here's one from the race shop of a cobalt pro stock front end the support tubing is a little clearer.
i was all pleased with myself, that i got my tailights put in today.......then i saw this. so, now me and sailor jerry are gonna get up close and personal!!! ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL, TIM!!!!!! man, that is impressive.
these "jap" cars, as you so eloquently say, each make more "muscle" than you have ever owned in your entire life......period. if they got more "muscle " why shouldn't they be muscle cars if they want? you guys act like you own the words "muscle car". jesus, you all can't even agree on the definition.
try googling "slot car wheels". a company called pro trac makes a very convincing looking aluma star copy. there are many other companies too. since i don't deal with 1/24 or 1/25 i can't speak to there quality. at least you have a lead to go on now.
looks great ron. loving the added details. if you'd like a suggestion, you might try a couple of coats using a filler primer. a little wet sanding and you can lessen or remove those printing lines on your parts. i use dupli-color from the local pepboys. keep up the great work!