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I use Alumilite clear for all my clear parts and never had a problem. Everything Ace said is true, the mix ratio is 1:1 by weight. Clear resins as well as rubber resins require a Platinum base RTV for proper curing, the Tin base RTV will inhibit the resin and it will not cure. Alumilite clear also requires heat for parts thinner than 1/8" thick. I cast parts that are .065 to .075 thick and I always use pressure and 125 to 150 degrees F heat for four hours and let the mold cool for 10 hours.
I have been making molds for a long time, and from what you described it seems to be a bad mix. If the container was the problem then the silicone touching the container would be soft and gooey, and that would only be 1/16 to 1/8 inches soft all around the container... the rest of the silicone would be cured. If the silicone around the part is soft then the part is the problem. I may be wrong but I never heard of using 3% catalyst for silicone unless it's a new product. I use both tin base and platinum base silicone and the mix ratio is 10 to 1 (10% catalyst) which leads me too believe it was a bad mix. Again I don't know what brand of silicone you are using. If you primer your part that will do the trick.
Ace is correct. I do a lot of casting and I always vacuum the resin and use a pressure pot. The resin I use has a 20 to 25 minute pot life. I'm not sure about the low viscosity resin not creating bubbles, I have a clear resin that's almost like water and it creates more bubbles! Best bet is de-gas and use pressure for casting. Also super glue is the way for filling pin holes!
First never use black for a chrome base. The best results I have is a gray base, 10 to 40 percent gray. Chrome dose not have color, it reflects whatever is around it. I use a two part automotive urethane clear, wait 5 to 10 minutes and spray Alclad. The two part clear cures in twenty four hours and you can try rubbing the Alclad off and it will not smear.