Bob... Thank you. You are right any progress is good because that means I am chipping way at my to do list. The glue I used on them is called Gators Grip. It's an Acrylic hobby glue which is water based sorta like white glue. So I applied glue on the fastener and then placed them where I wanted them after pressing the piece down. I took these Tamiya q-tips dipped in water and removed the excess that was squeezed out around the fastener. Here is what the glue looks like and I will give you guys the link where I got it from. I just noticed they have a newer version that is called for photo-etch and it is a thinner version of what I have. I would like to order a bottle of it and try it myself. http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html Here is what the bottle looks like:
Tony... Thank you very much. You know I never thought about using black silicone. I think I have some of it in my garage. I really like the idea and may have to try it out. Thank you for the recommendation Tim... Thank you. Hope the reply above makes sense with the glue I used. Its really easy and simple and if your not happy with placement of the parts you can pull it off real quick, clean it with water and start all over again. Darrell... Thank you for the kind words. Scott... Thank you. You are welcome and thank you for providing us builders with such great products. You should know me by now that I am trying to add every possible detail that I can to make it look real, although it will never be perfect. Dave... Thank you!!
Bryan.... Typically you would want to use the reducer that is specified with the temp range you will be painting in. For example House of Kolor has 4 Urethane reducers....RU310, RU311 & RU 312. Here is the ranges for them: • RU310 – Fast Reducer 65°F to 75°F • RU311 – Medium Reducer 75°F to 85°F • RU312 – Slow Reducer 85°F to 95°F • RU313 – Very Slow Reducer 95°F to 100+°F I personally use the RU311 and RU312.... although I should probably pick up some of the RU313 to use during the summer. House of Kolor does say to reduce the base 2:1 but also says for airbrush you can mix 1:1. I would say somewhere in that range you will be fine. I have sprayed both 2:1 and 1:1 ratios with my air brush and haven't had any issues with them. I would find what ratio works best for you. Same goes for the PPG and Dupont paints.
Also I do have a house of Kolor tech manual in a PDF format. if you want a copy of it just let me know. It shows the mixing ratios and a bunch of information on each line of their paints.
Tyrone.... That chassis is looking great. I absolutely love the contrast between the interior and the roll cage. Especially the Nitrous Bottles and the seat belt material. I gotta as did you use flocking or embossing powders for the interior? Nice job!
Tim... what more can I say but that is one Sexy Rear End . I can only imagine what it will look like once it is plated. That is one piece that is a work of art. All of those long and hard hours have totally paid off 10 fold. Be very proud of that work you have done there. I can only imagine what the rest of the car is going to look like. I will be honest I would love to see what you could do in 1/16th Scale
Alright Guys.... It's time for another small update. Honestly its not much but I guess I shouldn't complain because it is progress and things that I need to knock off my to do list. I worked on putting some Dzus fasteners on my under seat panels and got a little more work done to the distributor. I started out with using Dzus Fasteners from Future Attraction. Scott's parts are really nice if you haven't had the chance to use them yet:
Here is a close up shot of the Dzus fasteners after they have been glued to the panels:
I set the panels in the chassis to get an idea of what they will look like when installed:
Next I got a hole drilled into the distributor base to install the wires that will hook up to the Mallory Ignition box, right now I just have the wires pushed in there and not glued yet but I am going to do a test and see if I can mix in some black acrylic paint to the Krystal Klear white glue to see if I can get the white glue to tint black which when glued into place I will purposely have extra around the wires so that it will look like a rubber grommet like on the real part:
I can.... Knowing what goes in to the machining process and the time to set things up. Let alone Tim probably spent a lot of time drawing things up to be able to machine it. I wish I could do this kind of work
Bill Depending on the brand of paint you may need a specific reducer. My understanding is that it is urethane colors correct?? What brand by the way? From my personal experience I pretty much use PPG and House of Kolor Automotive paints on my builds. I would say to pretty much stick with the brand of reducer for the brand of paint you are using but I will say that you can cross use them but if you do I would only recommend using a quality reducer like House of Kolor and PPG. I have used my House of Kolor reducer in some of the Hot Rod Flatzs Urethane color and it worked fine. I just wouldn't use a cheap brand of reducer in a quality brand of paint.
Ray.... I can understand the pain you are going thru. Just be thankful that you haven't been waiting for 3 years like me for some parts that have been paid for. I also get it that some of these resin casters don't want to hold stock due to space and maybe some of the parts not selling right away. But Harry is right that parts should be shipped in a timely matter.
Tim... That there is some incredible and admirable work my friend. I am loving it. I can see how you have so many hours into it and I can only tell you that the hours have paid off because its perfect. You have me itching to see this thing plated and when it turns out great from the plating I know I am going to want to know the secret as I have been having a real hard time using the plating system I have from Caswell on a few parts I have tired it on. I probably need to pull my plating kit out and experiment with a few pieces. I am already looking forward to your next update.