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About Skip

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 12/03/1956

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  • Scale I Build 1/25

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  • Location Port Orchard, WA
  • Full Name Skip Ragsdale

Skip's Activity

  1. Skip added a post in a topic RILEY HEAD CONVERSION   

    Art, Looks like the Winfield head in the Rat Rod version, at least it's th same head as the Red Hot Rod version had.  Both have such thick chrome that the Winfield can't be read if it's there.
    Part B of the question:  Do any of the aftermarket Resin Casters do the Riley Head in Resin?  Since you're going to have to strip the chrome off of the head anyway you might as well start with a clean casting.
  2. Skip added a post in a topic Ghosting avoidance help   

    Funny thing is that when I first started using rattle can lacquer based automotive primer on models this was never an issue.  I highly suspect that the underlying issue is the styrene / plastic being used in the models we are getting now.  If you read some of the articles Hank Borger and others penned for Car Mod l and Model Car Science where they were using lacquer paints and primers there is literally no mention of "ghosting" "crazing" of the plastic.  Totally frustrating when using the same techniques used for years and having poor results from them, the purple pond is your friend in this case!
    Apply the primer in thin coats and allow it to fully cure until the next thin coat, (dehydrator works well for this).  Build thin coats up until you have enough to level he surface off then sand with 800 -'1000 grit.  If the color coat has any lacquer in it at all then you will need to slowly build your color coat up until there is sufficient color coat to polish out.  Same goes for clear coat, mist the coats on until you have a decent amount of clear built up, then if you need to you can probably get away with a heavier coat.    It wouldn't hurt while you are at it to apply a thin coat of future or acrylic spray between plastic and primer.
    The issue is that the lacquer in the primer is staying volatile because all the solvents are not fully evaporated off, once the surface flashes off then the solvents are trapped.  The ghosting we see is probably the result of the solvents trying to find a way out, can't get through all the paint so it tries to go through the plastic swelling the plastic and we see ghosting.  If you try to lay down a heavy coat of primer, unless you get really lucky on top of the ghosting you will see crazing of the plastic.  Ive always heard this condition called "Lacquer Burn" which is a good term for it because it can cause the plastic itself to become brittle.
  3. Skip added a post in a topic '40 Ford Kustom Coupe   

    That's coming out really nice, '37 - '40 Ford Coupes are really difficult to get the proportions down exactly right as in its not really a measurement thing it's a looks right thing.  Looks like you've got the "Looks Right Thing" down pat!
    ive seen a '40 chopped, they added the material in the middle of the roof to stretch it, never looks right proportionally. Chopping is supposed to make the car look sleeker, not clunky like some do.
  4. Skip added a post in a topic '40 Ford Kustom Coupe   

    Well, looks love you've got a start.  Also looks like a case of lacquer burn to that plastic too, might have to do a skim coat of filler to bury it, seems to come back like ghosting emblems.  When you prime it make sure that you build it up in thin coats, (I've had it happen with primer by trying to do a heavy first coat).  For me the trick is to get the primer flashed off and then dried very quickly.
    Back  to your Forty,  what are you doing for an engine? If the Buick Nailhead is still there it cleans up really well for '60's Nostalgia style if you use the triple carb version, the "Custom" Racing exhaust headers can be cleaned up and trimmed off to meet up with the dual exhaust systemm and looks good.  Flathead can be cleaned up as well, maybe toss in a resin intake and some hi-compression heads, again use or fabricate a dual exhaust and you have another winning combo. Dressed up small block Chev, Olds, Caddy, Y-block all would look great in that engine compartment as well.  Keep this one going, it's off to a great start!
     I have an AMT 40 Coupe on my bench right now too, Buick engine, Modelhaus Chrome Reverse wheels whitewall slicks and fronts,  dechromed dropped front axle, no hood, went with a teal green which is close to a stock 40 color.  Done up '60's Hot Rod style, simple understated forty.  
    For a model kit that's been around since the early 60's it can be built up to make a really nice 40 DeLuxe, same with the Tudor Sedan.
  5. Skip added a post in a topic New issue just hit my mail box   

    Sounds like we have the same mailman, or maybe brothers!   Most of the time our mailman gets everything in the box.  Just likes to shred everything as he's putting it in there, probably reasons that it fits better.  Not kidding either, this guy regularly tears the cover off of magazines, large, small it doesn't matter.  I suspected that it was just lousy handling along the way, until the last issue of Rod &Custom had 75% of the back cover torn off, there were parts of cover wedged between the wall and floor section of the box!!  To his defense he is running two Rural Mail Routes and the post office isn't hiring anyone so everyone is running their bunz off!!
  6. Skip added a post in a topic Replicas & Miniatures Co. Of Maryland   

    R & M of Maryland, is the bar that all other resin casters are measured by.  Norm is busy every time I've ordered from him, that's a good thing too he is able to support his small business with our orders. You get your order in, get in line in the orders while Norm casts each to order.  You are getting fresh resin cast parts every time.  Normal turnaround is 3 - 6 +/- weeks depending on backlog ahead of your order.
     Norm's quality control is 110+% great, flash is zero to none or about what you'd expect from styrene.  I normally like to order with a larger order every time figuring if I'm going to make an order that it may as well be worth Norm's time, ($150 +) per order.  I figure that if we don't support the really good resin casters well that they will go under just like too many of the early guys did.   Not to mention, Norm is just plain good, honest people who stands behind his work!
    In fact I have an order in the mail right now, should be here by Monday.  I'm beginning to salivate already!!
  7. Skip added a post in a topic What to do with instructions?   

    Even if you put them on eBay you could always scan them and send the scan to the Drastic Plastic site so they can get them online.  I've been helped in the past by the hosted instruction sheets so I'm a big proponent of helping the clubs who host them.
    BTW In the tips section I have started a thread with links to Revell and Drastic Plastic's Instruction Sheets, so if you have any more links to clubs or manufacturers who have instructions online add them please.  
  8. Skip added a post in a topic '25 TALL T Show & Go   

    Absolutely love the look of an Un-Chopped Model T Coupe, for some reason they look better to me than one with a Mailbox Slot Chop, they don't look all that bad with a real mild chop say 4 - 6 inches.   Like the purple glass sets it apart, gives it a '60's flavor as do the wheels and tires, they would set this one apart as a higher end built Hot Rod of say magazine quality.  Just like now custom wheels cost a bit go money which is why you see so many Hot Rods even really nice ones running Chrome Reverse Wheels.  Your stance looks right on the money!  Keep it up on this one.
  9. Skip added a topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials   

    Where to find Model Kit Instructions
    Please include any links to copies of model car instructions whether on the Manufacturer's Website such as the ones on Revell's website.  
    Suggest that if you have instructions laying around that you contact the Clubs who host them on their websites to see what kind of format they accept copies of instruction sheets.  Helps us all out.
    Revell/monogram/Hobico -
    Drastic Plastic Model Car Club -
    • 2 replies
  10. Skip added a post in a topic '57 Ford McCuloch Blower Instructions.   

    Yes, the '57 Del Rio does include the McCuloch Supercharger parts, same as the Fireball Roberts version, but no instructions to assemble it.      These instructions are also the mentioned.
    I found the instruction for the supercharged 312 on the Revell website of all places,  looked like the the 57 Ford Custom would have included the McCuloch supercharger but it didn't at least by the instructions it doesn't.  The Mac' Supercharger was included in the jFireball Robertts version, I would have thought the other way around.
    85-4283854283002001/25 1957 Ford Custom 2 'n 13.8 MBDownload85-4024854024002001/25 "Fireball" Roberts '57 Ford4.1 MBDownloadThanks to espo, mike 51, Dave Lindsey - SoCalCarCulture, oldnslow,  JTalmage. For chiming in.  Even though I found the instructions myself before checking this post,  you were all of great help.   Guess this something we need to look at creating is a list of urls which have instructions for model kits, which needs to include club sites like Drastic Plastic who has scanned instructions on their website.
  11. Skip added a topic in Model Building Questions and Answers   

    '57 Ford McCuloch Blower Instructions.
    I have the Revell '57 Del Rio kit which includes the complete McCuloch Blower from the Fairlane kit as well.  Does anyone have the assembly instructions for the blower to add to the Del Rio?  
    • 11 replies
  12. Skip added a post in a topic Working with .9mm rivets   

    Here's what I used the first time I saw those Micromark Pick Up Sticks:
    Glue Dot - sliced in quarters or thirds.  
    Stick - use either a toothpick or a used Microbrush stick, strip off the brush part off it leaves a really sharp pointed tip.  
    Assembly - Stick the cut portion of the Glue Dot onto either the Toothpick or Microbrush Tip.  KEEP FINGERS CLEAR!
    Usage - Pick up the small part onto the Glue Dot, place on model as required.  Keep Fingers Clear!
  13. Skip added a post in a topic Has anyone here used liquid paper on vinyl tire letters?   

    Years ago an older modeling friend told me they were using a mix of Artist's Gesso and White Acrylic paint, which may have been out of the tube back then.  (Certainly the craft type acrylics would work.)  the Gesso gives a really bright flat white, the Acrylic gives the flexibility for normal assembly handling and installing onto the wheels.  
    I never used the tip because I wasn't building white walled subjects at the time.  I attest to seeing the results of the mix.  Unfortunately the benefactor is now modeling in the afterlife so I can't ask hIm.  Not certain of the longevity of this trick because I have no idea where his models went.  Don't see any reason why it shouldn't work like straight acrylic white, it's just adding more white pigment (Titanium Oxide) solids.  I'd start with a 30/70 ratio of gesso/acrylic and work from there.
    This  is probably a tip that if you do use that you may wish to split the gesso with others if you're not already using it for artwork because of the container size.  I think the smallest I've been able to pick up for art projects has been like half-pint.  (I'll have to check to see if I still have some gesso that hasn't dried up in the bottle and give this a whirl.)
    **If I am not mistaken, White-Out was originally made of gesso mixed with a solvent (MEK) so that it would dry rapidly.**
  14. Skip added a post in a topic Bottled Flat Aluiminum Paint - Suggestions?   

    oh yeah I got the Badger Paint Mixer off of EvilBay for under $10 including shipping
  15. Skip added a post in a topic Bottled Flat Aluiminum Paint - Suggestions?   

    jb always comes up with the good ideas!  Years ago when McDonalds had the plastic coffee stirrers that looked like a little spoon. (Coke spoon I heard, never did that though. The carbonation bothers my sinuses!!)  Those worked really well for stirring the settled pigment off of the bottom of paint bottles.  Now days I use one of those Badger battery operated paint mixers, gets right down there to the bottom of things and really gets the metallic suspended like it originally was.