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About Skip

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    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 12/03/1956

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    Port Orchard, WA
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    Skip Ragsdale

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  1. A 0.100” rod/tube would be a 1/10” fractional size. Remember back to like 5th or 6th grade to obtain a decimal equivalent from a fraction divide the top number by the bottom. i.e. 1/10” = 1 divided by 10 = 0.100”. Now to go the other way and get a full scale measurement multiply the decimal number by the scale. 0.100 X 24 = 2.400 inches the actual mathematic expression looks like 0.100/1 X 1/24 = 2.400” the numerator’s and denominator’s (1’s) cancel out each another and you are left with the first equation or 0.100 X 24 = 2.400”. Try it with a few other common fractional tube sizes Fraction = Decimal X 1/24 Scale or 1/25 Scale Tube Sizes Fractional 1/32” = 0.031” = 0.750” = 0.780” say 0.750” 3/4” 1/25 scale 0.020” round up/down tube size 1/2” (?) 1/16 “ = 0.062” = 0.1.488” say 1.500” = 1.550” say 1.500” 1-1/2” Round 0.002 up 0.050 down to size 1/8” = 0.125” = 3.00” = 3.125” 3-1/4” Round up or down 3” or 3-1/2” tube From here you can probably figure it out; just remember that the prototype’s tubing size and the tubing sizes manufactured are what the deciding factor in rounding up or down to the “correct” tubing sizes. In whatever scale you are rounding to and using you will likely not be able to tell the difference of the rounding any way, unless you also count rivets I guess. For me even from an Engineer’s standpoint, in building scale models. There must come a point where what decides what dimensional tube used is what is manufactured in fractional (plastic) versus what is manufactured in full size (metal) tubing that you are replicating. If there isn’t an exact scale match then round up or down to what is pleasing to the viewer’s eye. Short of sanding plastic tube down or turning your own on a lathe, when an exact match isn’t there is about all you can do. It is a compromise called “best fit”. Hope this helps… Caveats - Assumption that beyond 1-1/2” tube sizes then 0-1/2” increments to the next larger size (or I didn’t look up common mil sizes for tubing).
  2. Excellent write up Steve. The only thought I had was, you are following or scribing straight lines so why not locate the groove with blade or scribes then use a straight edge such as a thicker steel rule for more control. Working around tool and die makers for years I’ve watched them do this very thing with carbide scribers. They were putting the finishing touches on high dollar, aluminum and other alloy part applied layup mandrels scribing in ultra fine parting lines for final trim. Even though many of these tool makers had the practiced ability to follow their scribe lines alone, I’d never see them do anything freehand.
  3. Bingo! Don Emmons in Rod & Custom, Model Car & Science and Car Model Magazines all recommended using TP for replicating the undersides of Fiberglass Hoods and Funny Car bodies. I've used both rough textured tissue paper and single plies of toilet paper to get it to work. While the first coat of paint is still wet, gently burnish in the tissue / toilet paper (you can either spray or lightly coat with brush enamel works best due to it's longer flash off times). You may need to brush what soaks through the paper so it isn't excessively thick. Let that dry. Next apply the topcoat, which in your case would be glossy black, apply one thin coat allow to dry fully, it may need one or more thin coats to get the look. The paint raiser the paper's fibers where it looks similar to chopper gun applied fiberglass. Make sure you practice on a scrap body or piece of plastic before you try it on your finished work. I've never tried this method, yet. It's essentially the same as above you might get this to work with Future floor polish as the "resin" or "paint" in the above method lightly saturate the tissue then topcoat with a glossy acrylic paint such as Vallejo's Glossy Black. Might add a bit more control to the method.
  4. Cool idea! Love to see an innovative Mini based build, surprised you aren't using a Vauxhall or even a BMW MINI engine for your conversion to keep it all European. Question, why not turn the engine around so that it sits more in the middle of the car for a nearly equal weight distribution? Having the engine sit so far back in the car would make for a tail heavy handling car, not unlike an early VW, where the weight of the engine would cause the tail to kick out or the whole car to spin in a tight corner. Midmounting the engine would make a Mini handle more like the Street Legal Go Kart that it is, especially when you factor the weight loss in the front end from removing the stock 1,300 CC engine. I've seen a couple Suzuki Hayabusa engine conversions done like this and they are usually set up the engine as near mid mount as possible. The Honda VTEC can also be swapped up front in the stock engine location, you would need to fabricate a new front subframe and usually lengthen the front clip by 6 - 8 inches. I have a couple of friends in the Mini club I belong to who have done this conversion, looks and handles pretty amazing! BTW - I own a ' 71 Mk II Mini Cooper S spec +, lots of engine work where it's probably just a little tamer than a race spec engine, a few chassis mods, enough so that it regularly embarasses Corvette, Viper, ans a few Porsche owners when we run Autocross with it! I can put most if not all my power to the ground where they spin their tyres most of the way through the course. But being from the UK, I don't have to tell you how amazing a Mini handles, do I!
  5. I've always used CA, superglue and baking soda to fill the pre-cut lines for hood scoops tire radius cutouts like on the inner rear quarters of the '49 and '50 Fords come to mind right off. First sprinkle a light coat of the baking soda into the groove then drop the superglue in over the baking soda which works as an accelerant so the area can be worked almost immediately. Alternately talc can be used in place of the baking soda. This filler is slightly harder than the styrene being filled and yields a stable fill which can be over coated with any standard two part automotive glaze filler. Got this tip from fellow monster modelers almost 25 years ago, every area that this filler was used has held up perfectly well no shrinkage, no cracking. Unlike the lacquer based fillers I was using before which have cracked and exhibit shrinking over that same time. Although you get a bond between the lacquer filler and the styrene, it sets by evaporation of the lacquer from the outside in, which may take some time to get to the styrene. In th mean time the lacquer fillers have cracked and shrunk, sometimes taking a year even years to leave their mark.
  6. Unless you're running a semi truck engin, transmission and rear end, those rear tires and wheels would be considered a bit excessive! Unless they wanted th change clutches frequent that is!!
  7. Never heard of this happening. Figure it this way, the market share or percentage of discretionary income spent on model cars is a mere spec in the total scheme of things, income as a whole not individual. Therefore it makes little if any sense that someone would counterfeit model car kits or anything original in the sealed kit. What you have probably noted is a printing error, those happen frequently with high batch printing jobs. It might be worth a little bit more than a non-error what ever that is worth to a collector. now if you're talking resin parts, that's quite common for someone to rip off another's hard work to develope a decent master and bring a part to market. That's a matter of exposing the fraud for what they are, a common thief!
  8. Nope, I have enough to last including two of each '29 Roadster original release, '30 Coupe first and only release still in unopened boxes already built a couple of each so far. Not hoarding them, just waiting for the right inspiration to come along before another one is released from its cardboard prison! Not going to play into the hands of "Chicken Littles" and speculators, every sector of the automotive hobby that I've been involved in has been fraught with one crisis or another. Some Chicken Little running around telling everyone to buy it now or never get it! Funny thing, if you're the least bit patient the item in question either comes back around the same price or lower. Then those morons who bought the stores out stocking up got tired of having money tied up in stuff that wasn't supposed to ever see the light of day flood the store shelves with a vengeance! Happens nearly every time, just be patient!
  9. There is actually another air compressor option http://www.californiaairtools.com/ these are a brand of quiet air compressors, I have a 5 gallon compressor that I use in the house in my hobby room, no complaints from my wife over the noise like my old compressor. Airbrushes, one of the beginner air brushes that I have reccomended is actually the Harbor Freight DeLuxe airbrush. Sure it's cheap, it's a cheap knockoff of the bigger bucks models, it has the adjustments needed to make corrections. Once you get used to working with the Harbor Freight Airbrush and have decided whether you wish to use an airbrush (or not) then decide which airbrush actually fits your needs. Get used to assembling and disassembling the cheap airbrush, then when you graduate to a better one you will already have the habits of keeping one clean and adjusted for a lot less money than an Iwata, Paasche, or other better airbrushes. I've been fooling around with Airbrushes for over 40 years, I've helped a lot of people get started in using one too. My first airbrush was a Badger single action with canned propellant! Then a spare tire for air, a tank then a five gallon compressor (used for other garage stuff). Next was a Badger dual action, then a Paasche I use Iwata and Paasche mostly now for models and custom paint work. You mentioned "zebra striping" sounds like the tip on the brush is a little too small, it might be a "detail" tip where you might need a broader tip to get more coverage. This is something that can be addressed when you graduate up to a better airbrush which will have a wider variety of tips available to correct or address any coverage problems you might encounter. You might want to pick up a copy or two of Airbrush Action magazine, read everything you can about running an airbrush, they also advertise some excellent "quiet" air compressors. The other model car magazine and Fine Scale Modeler have had many Good articles on using an airbrush for models try and see if you can pick up some of the back issues covering the subject. From a former apartment manager; as far as the "old bag" upstairs, you pay your rent the same as she does and are entitled to the use of your rented home the same as any other resident of your apartment complex. I take it that you are able to hear her walking on the floors above your head, maybe her tv, stereo or other noises correct. She has to realize and this should be made clear to her through the apartment management that she is living in a multiple resident apartment and therefore she can and will at times hear, smell or otherwise notice the presence of other residents in the building at times. You should have a long talk with your apartment manager about this, if it still remains an issue request to be moved to another unit, even threaten to move out. Apartment managers don't like the move out because it makes them work to rehab the unit to be rentable so this ploy might work for you. Just make sure you stand up for yourself and establish the bat as the whiner that she is, which the manager probably already knows.
  10. Something to remember with the "low cost" acrylics, rule of thumb is the lower the price the less pigment in the paint. Less pigment = less coverage. Something you can tell right off when you try to brush the acrylic paint over a primed surface. The better brands of model specific acrylics often will cover with one coat, something I've never done with the cheaper Wally World brands. I still use them but realize that they will need multiple coats to cover; something I really notice when using an airbrush with thinned paint. I've used both windshield washer fluid and acrylic specific reducers, each have their place; wouldn't topcoat a body or other large surface with washer fluid as a reducer though.
  11. You are doing really well with this one. Two observations from having a Mk III Mini in the garage,. 1. The engine block is the same as the Austin Healey Sprite and MG Midget and should be painted green, the ribbed transaxle and oil pan are a cast aluminum unit and should be left raw aluminum. (Couldn't tell you whether overspray from painting the engine is normal or not, I've never seen that so I think they must have painted the engine and head seperate from the transaxle assembly.) 2. Axles should be black in between flat and glossy, mix flat and gloss together 50/50 and you should have the right color. Minor corrections that will add a whole lot of credibility. Minilites the color combination that I am familiar with is the color you have, then paint the rim portion a more silver aluminum color leaving the spokes the color you already have them! You'll have it nailed then! Free reference pictures of the individual parts can be found at some of the retailers selling Mini parts for the original Mini such as;. minimania.com and their sister site in the UK I think it's Minigarage.com (you can find that on the minimania website). Heritage garage has a website. Look for Mini clubs like the Vancouver and the Victoria B.C. Mini Clubs, the Oregon Mini Society, Seattle Area Mini Owners Association and others which have links to their suppliers and other clubs. Between all those you should find more information than you require to make a pretty accurate Mk I Mini. If you really want to make an accurate Monte Carlo Ralley scene then add a snowy base with a red SAAB 90 and maybe a Volkswagen Beetle racing together.. The SAAB and Mini were pretty much neck and neck most of the times they ralleyed against each other! You already did the other thing right that many modelers get wrong with the window chrome trim its only around a quarter of an inch wide, I've set models with the whole door surround painted silver! Oops!
  12. Thanks for starting this thread. Last weekend there was a listing out of China for the More American Graffiti "Milner's Dragster" for the paltry sum of $24.99 on a buy it now. I tried to buy it now, thankfully it didn't go through. So I tried to contact the scam artist asking what the trouble was and why the sale wouldn't go through blah, blah.. after that I saw this thread, knew what the deal was. So I tried contacting again, telling them that if they didn't make contact within the next 24 hours that I was through dealing with them. Even before the time was up I turned the "Auction" in to eBay as a possible fraud, it was down within an hour or two so they must have thought so too! starting to get like it was in th early days of EvilBay when there were a few stalkers on there who tried to scam people into sending cash instead of money orders. eBay rooted them out pretty quickly too.
  13. That's too bad, really, there is some cool stuff, I was primarily looking for the backdate stuff for the '32 Ford frames. Well I see why he doesn't answer his email now!! Least they coulda told somebody!!
  14. Does anyone know if Early Years Resin is still up and running? I enquired about ordering some stuff on the email address furnished on their website about two plus weeks ago, haven't heard a word. Anyone have a better way to contact Ron Royston at Early Years?? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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