Here's my long two cents on the subject: @ Force; you are probably right regarding the carbs, from the time the teams receive them who knows what modifications if any are done to them. I remember reading about Bill Jenkins ordering a ton of Holly Denominator Carbs at a time placing each one on his flow bench, either returning the ones he didn't like or selling them to others. The ones that flowed well we're the ones he would tweet into Race Carbs, Cams,,, until he got the best of the best. That takes a huge pile of cash and the time to work the parts. (If I remember right it was in an early to mid 70's CARS magazine). I've read a lot of articles on Bill Jenkens over the years, he always intriegued me with his methodical approach to his engines, chassis and overall set up. Gotta know the successful Teams are doing lots and lots of R & D work still. I think going to Fuel Injection will help bring some competitiveness back to Pro-Stock. The other step NHRA has to do is get the Big Three back into the picture, if the excitement is there for the fans they'll buy their cars. It's happened before. I hate the Unrecognizable Jelly Bean Blobular Funny Cars with their Vinyl Wraps, maybe it's done for weight reduction (in theory). Just hanging a manufacturer's Badging on them doesn't make them Mustangs, Camaros, Chargers... It just makes them a Blob with a Manufacturers's Badges on them. The fact that Team Force could take a "Mustang" body and call it a "Camaro" and have NHRA buy into it is proof that the Funny Cars are Unrecognizable Blobs. There was a period during 80's through 2000 then the Funny Cars became not so recognizable in name of aerodynamics, until NHRA put their foot down and told the Teams to make the cars look like they were what they said they were supposed to be! NHRA, it's time to put your foot down again, bring back the driver talent that was once needed to drive these cars. Top Fuel, what do you say, they aren't supposed to look like anything production and never did. It might be time to return this Class to the truly "Unlimited" Class it once was, where only the best of the best drove them and survived! NHRA would have to mandate across the board Safety Upgrades to every track the Fuel Cars run on or they don't run there period! It took the death of Dale Ernhardt Sr. to change the walls of the NASCAR tracks, it has seemingly worked. NHRA still hasn't done the things needed to assure Driver's have as safe of a racing surface as possible, that goes for all the "Pro" classes. I never have got all that excited about the Pro-Stock Bikes for some reason, they're sort of an extension of the Sportsman classes. A door slammer without the doors! TV coverage would either be better dropping Pro-Stock Bike and having more interviews, showing close Sportsman Class races, viewer educational stories, how and why things are done, new innovations... Announcers - Mike Dunn does a really good job, especially giving the Driver Perspective which is much needed side of the stories most of the time. He also knows when to shut up and let the story tell itself, something that's needed in sports announcers across the Dial, get tired rather quickly with announcers who just drone on and on. That's what the mute button is for! Back a while ago, years, when TNN was broadcasting the NHRA events they had great announcers who knew what was going on, as well as the relevant sidebar stories to highlight, Bob Frye was really good at that. (He's probably retired or gone by now.)
Puyallup, Bremerton, Kent, Arlington a few times. In addition to the names you mentioned we got to meet guys like Ed "The Ace" McCulloch before the Ace, Herm Petersen, Jim Green - Green Elephant F/C, Gene Berg who ran VW Gassers, major VW performance innovator, Walt and Bucky Austin, Lee Beard before his Crew Cheif days... Bremerton, Kent which became known as Seattle International Raceway now Pacific Raceways are really the only two active Drag Strips in Western Washington. Wish the good old days were back, Drag Racing was so much up close and all around fun for both the Racers and the fans alike. Too bad things had to get so corporate that it just became a side show at the national level, it's still much the same at the regional and local levels.
Welcome to the forum, (we must be about the same age). '64 was around the first year I got to tag along to the Drags, mostly local stuff like the Strips here in western Washington. i used to Tag along with my Uncles for the price of being their parts washer, cleaner, sander, sweeper and any other dirty job they didn't want to do! Well worth the price of admission in my book!
I think most fabric softeners contain silicone in them including drier sheets, that's what lessens the static cling! Just make sure that you wash the parts really, really well or you could end up with fisheye in the topcoat. I use the dryer sheets to deodorize stinky or smoke smelling old magazines, works well. For models I usually wash in liquid dishwashing soap then about a tablespoon of baking soda in a ziplock bag, the box goes to the garage where it stinks up the garage until it's finally aired out. It may take a bit longer for the baking soda together the smell out, it works and I'm 100% certain that I'm not coating the parts in silicones.a
austinbantamclub.com The above link to the Austin Bantam Club has some really cool reference pictures of the various cars that the American Austin Co. made. I'd never seen that the "Coupe" sedan looking body style had the cloth covering like a Model A sedan, I thought that I knew quite a bit about them until I hit on that website.
That's really amazing, never thought I'd see anything like this happening when I got back into modeling. Strikes me as funny though when I hear people complaining about a little flash, mold lines, mismatch and other junk when lots of us would readily put up with a lot of this if we were able to build a 3D printed piece of something never kitted. For that matter look at some of the resin blobs, (some of which made slush cast parts look great) that a lot of Modelers in Europe have been turning into nice models for years
Appears to be a much better rendition than one one AMT's other Model A kits the '29 Roadster which had the everything molded into the frame bit engine, front and rear ends. from the instructions it doesn't appear that this kit was any better with the frame molded to the fenders. Looks like you would have to get a Revell Model A pickup or Tudor to make a decent '28 Tudor out of it. The last '29 Roadster that I built On my way! Model A rails went on a Revell chassis. The one thing that stands out is the pose able front end, though somewhat clunky looks like it could be pared down to make a nice front end, though the Revell is better out of the box. Just from the instructions the banger engine looks like it could be enhanced to make a pretty nice Model A 4 Banger, seats look like thy might work in the AMT '32 Vicky. That's a whole lot of money at collector prices for parts or to kit ash a nice '28 when you could take the Revell '31 Tudor, backdate it and have a really nice '28. Just my two cents!
Oh, back to those everything molded into the frame AMT frames, seems like from a tooling standpoint that it would have been a whole lot easier for them to have molded the bare frames on the '29, '32, '34, '36, '40... And molded the wood detail to the bottoms of the interior buckets or even a separate piece. Tooling would have been cheaper to do that way too. Maybe the esteemed Mr. Art Anderson can fill us in on the logic that gave us the everything in one frames.
You have some amazing skills there Sir!!! Really like what you have done so far.
My only change would be a LaSalle grill.
1. Stance, How about picking up the front 1/16" and the rear 1/8"?
I realize you're going for an aired out bagged look, but things got limits.
2. Interior is excellent so far, if you hadn't already thought about it. How about adding
caps to the inner door and could wrap all the way around, would give proper bullnose
on the doors and a transition to a headliner elsewhere.
Fluorescent paints no matter what the medium are almost always really opaque, I am wondering if there are not a large amount of pigment in these paints because of that. I've had some experience with the Vallejo paint line, when I begin using any new (to me) paint line I always use their reducers and any other stuff that the manufacturer recommends I figure their Chemists are a whole lot smarter than me. Most of the acrylic paints have a transparent base, which is the paint without pigment, which would be what I would add to a fluorescent paint in the first place no matter who the manufacturer, then add the reducer to get the flow. You may be getting your Vallejo paints from a dealer who isn't moving their stock quickly enough, you're getting old paint that isn't working like it's supposed to. Try using another source before giving up completely.
In your case I highly suspect what has happened (from experience) is that the transparent base in the paint has somehow evaporated to the point you are left with the pigment and very little base. I've had issues with acrylic metal colors as well, again I suspect that it has to do with opacity as well, the metal or Mylar bits suspended in the base are laying down leaving voids where they should be overlapping and or stacking together so the light is reflected back in an even wavelength. Since I began using Alclad paints I've also began using black under the acrylic metal paints, it just gives a better reflection. Use a white base coat under the fluorescent colors to increase their reflectivity.
That is actually a pretty cool piece when you think about the possibilities, not with the model but that the GI Joe figures are 1/6 scale. This alone would make it a very collectible piece for someone who collects GI Joe and similar sized Soldier figures, which there seems to be quite a large following. (Probably all those guys my age or a little older whose Dads were like mine. "No kid of mine is going to play with dolls!!!" And I didn't.). I do see a lot off GI Joe stuff changing hands at the toy shows occasionally, so if you are looking to turn it there is a market. At that scale though the detailing opportunities are huge which would make that a fun model.
A few years ago we swapped the inline six for a 390 in my brothers full/scale '53 F100 there's a whole lot of engine bay there the engine wants to sit down too low. We ended up using an aftermarket engine mount, which bolted directly to the frame and used the stock type rubber isolated 390 engine mount on the block side. He is running a C-6 automatic transmission on the rear with a round 3/4" tube transmission mount, also an aftermarket piece. Exhaust at first he ran the stock rear exit manifolds which have since been swapped for headers. All in all it was a pretty easy swap due to the aftermarket mounts. There were no clearance issues at all.
That being said try searching for an FE Series engine swap in an F100 I'm sure that with the still huge following that the '53 - '56 F-100's that there must be a ton of stuff out there.
Interesting site, looks like they have a bit of everything on there. I bookmarked it for future reference.
My normal reference for the stuff that I tend to build is the "Little Pages", digest sized versions of Rod & Custom, Car Craft, etc.. I have a pretty extensive collection of Little Pages plus Hot Rod, Rod & Custom, Car Craft and others in the larger Magazine Format. While I don't always remember where an article or car I'm looking for is at, I can usually find it within an hour or so. I like those because when you're looking for "Period Correct" you are certain that it is, versus someone's recollection of what stuff was like.
Please, give us a '27 T. Agreed that including the existing engines from midget kits would be a great idea, maybe even a '31/'32 Banger. Look how well the Resin versions sell, if that's any indication a full kit would sell well.
That last Coupe in Greg's post #40 is probably one of the nicest in the whole thread so far. Including the American Graffiti Coupe whichever though fairly period correct has some visual flow issues for me, the height of the grill shell looks like it's going down hill. For a whole generation (myself included) the AG Coupe is an Iconic representative of early '60's Hot Rods, so we overlook the styling miscues, even if a serious Hot Rodder's would have tweeked them to look good back then.
Too many decent, well built Nostalgia, Period Correct, Traditional Hot Rods get "Branded" as a Rat Rod because the builder thinks patina and rust looks good. That's what ruins it for me, being raised around Hot Rodders during the early '60's where they cleaned, painted and shined up everything that went on their Hot Rods. Both my Uncles had nice Model A Coupes, (couldn't afford Deuces I guess) from what I remember there wasn't a lick of Rust or caked grease on them, (my brothers and I were enlisted more than once as parts washers, free labor, the price a kid had to pay to hang around in the garage) so maybe that's what ruins it for me.
Like someone posted, it's their car, build it the way you want to; maybe. Hot Rodding has and has had some long standing traditions, ugly flaking, faded paint, heavy rust, holes in bodywork, grease and caked on grime haven't been a part of that picture until lately. Sort of like "Historical Revision" where something didn't happen that way historically, but is changed in the history books because what really happened wasn't politically correct!!