Excellent job, like the paint too! Nice flathead! '39 & '40 are two of my favorite years, you almost can't go wrong with them!!! incidentally, on those chassis colors, it was common in forties and fifties to paint suspension components with either a favorite color or usually just plain whatever you had laying around, sometimes that included plain old house paint. Painting frames and suspension under a full bodied car was a sign that the owner had worked on, modified the parts or just cleaned it up and painted it, then kept it clean afterwards.
I emailed, thanking Carol and Don for opening up the site for orders again. Carol said they got totally slammed right off the bat! Sounded like they figured they'd get a huge amount of orders, but were surprised at how huge.
Bittersweet moment, got the final of my final Modelhaus order in this morning. I couldn't figure out why my iPad wouldn't bring up the website, I had to clear out the history and it came right up! I've been haunting eBay for a reasonably priced '60 Ford Short Box Pickup for a long time, like the body style of the '57 - '60 Short Wide Bed Ford Pickups. While I was ordering tires, wheels, grills, bumpers I went ahead and picked up the '57 Short Bed. Figure it this way, if I had found a '60 on eBay it would have required cleanup, maybe shortening a long bed. Easily would have been a hundred bucks in spite of doing the work to make it what I wanted. I didn't make any larger order than I normally do from Modelhause, usually do the same with Replicas & Miniatures. I usually list out the stuff I'd like to get for future projects ahead of time. Once it's long enough I'll sit down with the vendors catalog and place an order. This time there was no sitting on the fence, 20 weeks out or not, if it was getting ordered it had to have been then!
That's interesting news. Kind of sux big time! Isn't Jeep all that's left of the AMC line? Not like Chrysler is going to resurrect the Rambler name one day. They have troubles of their own, just keeping themselves in business. One of my Dad's work beaters was a '59 Rambler Cross Country. One day he stopped at the bank, ran in to cash his paycheck. When he came out there was a guy staring at the side of his then brand new Ford pickup which had been slit down the side of the bed a couple feet, right at Rambler fin height! The only thing hurt on the Rambler was the fin was a few degrees off kilter, probably hurt the high speed aerodynamics. He never did fix the fin, it was kind of a badge of pride for wounding a brand new Ford pickup! Incidentally, the "R" fell off the grill, so he rearranged the remaining letters to "mable", my grandma's middle name. Which she hated, so she hated the Rambler so much she wouldn't ride in it after that. i was hoping to replicate it for my brother who learned to drive in mable, good thing I didn't tell him I'd hate to get his hopes up then have to tell him the bad news!
their chrome is as good if not better than vacuum chromed styrene parts, in fact I would say far better. I've never had a chromed Modelhaus part I was even tempted to strip the chrome to get a crisper part, their parts are as crisp as they come. Modelhaus is the benchmark.
Ace, you hit on pretty much what I was trying to get across at 04:00 Hrs. The problem being most of the garage assembled / built setups lack any engineering to make them function correctly. There are always trade offs when you modify a stock based suspension like the dropped forged Henry Ford and Super Bell front axle shown. They were originally designed with the axle on one plane then it gets dropped to another. Posies, Bell, and a host of others have put the math and engineering into their products and it shows in the way they function. It really goes back to just because something looks cool doesn't mean it works, or works safely. You nailed it on the Semi and Quarter elliptical, which I nearly always get confused in the first place which is which, I was referring to Quarter Elipticalls in my comment, didn't Chevrolet use Quarter Elliptical suspended front axles, I know there were a few others who did. Point is when they are well thought out they work as they were engineered to do in the first place. Probably should have waited until the coffee kicked in to make a statement on anything requiring thinking. As an Engineer, my point is you just don't go and weld things up to look cool and expect them to perform like something that was engineered on proven principals to work a specific way. The front suspension set up which got me on the rant is the split wishbone with the "spring eye" welded to the wishbone, can't imagine how that one handles. I don't want to see either. Ford and others built their suspension systems on hard gained, tested and proven knowledge which they changed things a little bit at a time, not making huge jumps in theory and practice. That set up just reminds me of some of the stuff seen under rat rods, probably why I have issue with it in the first place. That set up could work, it's built stout enough, just the more distance between axle and spring tends to act as a lever to introduce torsional twist into the spring as well as up and down. There are so any ways to get a buggy sprung front axle in the weeds which use sound time proven methods and parts to get the job done without trying to reinvent the wheel too!
http://www.honestcharley.com/hot-rod-parts/28-31-model-a-ford/complete-front-ends/full-frt-end-w-tube-axle-28-31-4-5bc.html Something like this is infinitely more streetable versus the welded spring eye onto the radius rods. The drop, proper geometry, ride are all a part of this suspension system. Ask yourself this question, nothing has changed since Henry Ford's Engineers designed their suspension system why didn't they go with a variation of the one shown? Likely because there are geometry issues with it, I've seen this setup but never ridden or driven a car with it. My question however is while this is likely as strong as the original design placing the axle that far ahead of the spring with a set of disc brakes will make the axle want to roll under during normal braking. I know this front suspension has been around and in magazines for a while, I'm just a tad bit leery of it, one concern with the frame horns above the axle it could bottom the axle on the frame horn and not have bump but bang steer! Second, I hope there is more airspace between that axle and the brake line /fitting or it might get snapped off when the radius rod hits it. The issue associated with semi-elliptical suspension systems is when you put efficient modern brakes on the axle which may or may not have the spring rate calculated. On a soft spring the brakes will cause the front axle to ocellate which is why you see it on a lot of light roadsters without front brakes. Semi-elliptical front suspensions were production suspension systems with brakes and without a pan hard bar. Obviously someone felt they were a stable front end, not to mention a whole lot of board track and early oval track roadsters. I have ridden and driven a properly setup semi-elliptical suspended roadster, with brakes I didn't feel any of the skittishness mentioned, it's all in the spring rate. With the dropped original Ford designed suspension, the lowering is done first by the reversed spring eye, softer spring and or the additional load of the larger engine. Second the dropped axle itself will bring the front end down accordingly.
Hopefully they will open up for at least one or two more runs, I wouldn't blame them if they didn't though. Don't think they anticipated all the frenzy created by all the uninformed speculation on every modeling board on the 'net. It's almost been akin to someone yelling "Fire" in a crowded theater!! Even so, I'd like to get at least one more order in, got one just after Don and Carol announced their intention to retire. I do hope someone can swing purchasing the business as the Modelhaus has been a gianormous asset to the model car hobby. The person(s) who do buy Modelhaus (if anyone does) may have to realize that they may be slow at first due to a whole lot of people going overboard with orders for a year or more prior to a buyer taking over. However, that might be a good situation especially if no "training" is going to be a part of the sale of the business; things are always negotiable when it comes to selling or buying businesses. It will certainly be interesting to see what the outcome is.
I use the flip open jewelry parts storage boxes at Hobby Lobby they're about 18 X 12 X 2" with 2 X 2" compartments for the parts. It's usually the small stuff that gets lost anyway. I usually store larger stuff in the stacking plastic drawer modules purchased at most big box stores. Most of my tools are either stored in a small three drawer toolbox or hanging off magnetic tool holder strips. After market parts resin, photo etch are kept in their original package until used and are stored file box fashion in plastic Stero Shoeboxes. I use the same shoeboxes to keep in work kits, parts and needed items together during the build process. Pays to be organized, I've done it both ways where all the extra parts got thrown in a common container mixed about so anytime a part was needed it got dug for which ruins chrome quickly. I like the organized system much better, I store all like parts together when I need an axle, I open the bin they're in and choose the one that works. Same thing for any other parts. Beats digging!
I think what he is asking for is the descriptive actions of each. Sanding refers to color sanding which levels out the high and low areas of the color coat and or clear coat using ultra fine Wet sanding paper/ pads/ films from 2,000 - 12,000 grits and finer. polishing refers to a series of liquid based polish compounds, which the grit is suspended in the compound. Think rubbing compound. A favorite polish system of a few people oon here is the Novus three part plastic polish system which is used on the topcoat and works well, needs no waxing. Next step for both would be to wax the topcoat whether that be color or clear coat