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bigmikevee

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Everything posted by bigmikevee

  1. Hey Patrick, I have to agree with the good Doctor Cranky and with Dale about the Iwata, I also have the identical brush, it is a wonderful airbrush, gravity feed gives you a finer, softer pattern if you desire, there is a cap to put on the top of the paint cup in case you tip your brush, but with experience, you will rarely use it. Double action is the way to go for long-term in becoming a great painter, you will figure it out after a couple of sessions, it is all about getting control of the paint, with control comes the paint jobs you always looked at but never thought you could do....until now.I used to have a Badger 150, very good brush as well, but cleaning was a bear, besides the brush you had to clean the siphon tubes and the bottle or bottles you sprayed with, the cup that attaches for small amounts of paint was easy to clean compared to the bottles, but still..... On the Iwata, if doing a color change, just spray lacquer thinner through the brush, remove and wipe down the needle (carefully), go around the paint cup with a Q-tip with thinner on it, reassemble, and shoot again. Cleaning between colors takes less than 2 minutes, and at the end of a session a thorough cleanup takes about 5-6 minutes. Mix paint in seperate bottle if you need a lot, stir and add to your color cup as needed, never could figure out why people think they need these huge bottles of paint for these small cars.... Balances nicely in your hand, solid, sturdy, my skills have really improved since getting this brush. If you get a compressor with a regulator on it, you can dial presssure way down, and with practice, spray a line that is pencil-thin, just practice, practice, practice (and watch Dr. Cranky's videos!!) Got my brush online frpm TCP Global Paint Supplies, sent with a compressor combo setup, a little pricey, but will last pretty much forever. Used them for some other stuff, very helpful on the phone, fast shipping, careful packing, would have bought from a LHS if I could have found someone who could answer my very simple questions. (Sorry moderators for plugging TCP, but the LHS's all fell so flat on this one, gave them a chance, ya know?) Good luck Patrick, two more tips for your setup....I spray in the garage, but move the compressor into the guest closet when done, don't want the humidity to rust out inside the tank, and...clean your brush thoroughly, will make everything so much easier. I had also gotten a bunch of rattle cans before I got serious about learning the airbrush, now I just decant them and spray thrugh the brush, just can't see the need for cans except on a very limited basis, the control and ease of use with a brush is indescribable. Good luck!! Mike
  2. I am using the lightest pressure I can...... I can't help it if my hands are like two hams......
  3. Hey gang, Ya know, it seems like we never take the time, or get the time, to say kind things to people that have made life a little better for us. Well, I just wanted to send out a huge thank you to all of the people who have responded to the questions I have asked on the forums, I so appreciate your consideration and expertise. I had returned after a long time away from the hobby, and want to build the very, very best I can, and in the last couple of weeks I have seen a lot of the knowledge you have all shared with me shining through on my models. I just love this hobby, and I just love this place. You guys and gals are great, thanks for making this fun!! Anybody else want to tip their hat to the gang here? Mike
  4. Hey Gang, Just curious if you use a lot of #11 blades with your BMF projects. I seem to have really gotten the hang of the foil, (yippee ) but seem to use a lot of blades in the process, average 2-4 cuts per blade, then need new one. Tried using a couple of different handles at first, now I just hold the blade with my fingertips, trying to use the lightest pressure I can, and make the most delicate cuts I can, but still.... Save the ones I used on the foil for general work, have a plastic film can filling up quick with blades, is there a way to sharpen them? They are still good for many other uses, but once dulled by the foil, well, I guess that's all the cuts it can make. I tried the "sharpening stone" that came with a knife set I got, mixed results, maybe get one more pass out of a blade, but that's all. Seems to me someone posted something about a sharpener awhile back, but can't find the topic. Any help is appreciated, and as always, thanks to those who care to reply, I'm sure I am not the only one getting a huge collection of used blades from foiling!! Mike
  5. Hey Randall, Don't get too frustrated and give up on the small parts, they are what really make a model "pop" in my opinion. I don't know how old you are, but since I have turned 21 many, many....times I have found the most important items in my arsenal are some type of hands-free magnification and good lighting. I tried the stationary magnifiers, but seemed to be much more comfortable with the headpiece magnifier. Once you get used to both, it will make a huge difference in your models and your abilities. Good luck!! Mike
  6. Hey Jim, Thanks for the info on the solder, on your above post on the Evergreen I was using the solid rod, not the hollow tube, do you think I should try the tube/brass combo you mentioned? Thanks. Mike
  7. Oh, and on the solder, after painted or polished do we need to clear it or seal it to keep the shine? Thanks.
  8. Hey Gang, Thanks for the replies so far, it is just so nice to have you out there for good answers. One quick question on the solder, I know there are resin core and non-resin core, seems to me I read a long time ago one won't work for what we need. Which one should we avoid? Thanks again folks!! Mike
  9. Hey Gang, I was just wondering what you all used to scratchbuild exhaust pipes (and more), and why you prefer your methods and materials. I have been lucky enough to receive one of those sand/glass boxes that are used for heating and shaping eyeglasses. However, still trying to get the temp. right, either things barely move or they turn into cooked spaghetti. I have been using Evergreen solid rod in my attempts so far I would guess hollow tubing would not work. The problem with things getting too hot is that the ends swell up from the heat and end up looking like little barbells, also too hot produces little cracks when cooled. I am sure if I keep experimenting with temp. and duration it might get better, but.... curious on what you do and why you do it. Is solder better, what kind do we need to use, will it keep its shape, can it be painted, etc? What about aluminum and its qualities? Brass? Evergreen? What did I miss that you like? So many questions......so little brain......(sigh)! I know sprue can be heated over lighters or candles for simpler shapes, which is really great, but I tried it for a complex set of bends close together, and it just would not get precise enough in my clumsy ham-hands!! Your opinions and your shared techniques will, I'm sure, help a lot more folks than me, and I thank you in advance to all those that care to share. This place rocks!! Mike
  10. Hey Gary, Welcome to the forum and welcome back to the coolest hobby in the world. You've come to the right place, everyone is interested in helping you succeed, don't worry about the frustration, our standards are now higher than they were when we were kids!! Take your time, have fun, and you can't help but improve. Make sure you show us some pictures when you get your rig built, and once again welcome. Mike
  11. Happy birthday George!! I wondered what that big glow on the horizon was, then I realized it was all the candles on your cake!! Hope it was good and hope you have many, many more!! Mike
  12. Hey Chuck, Wow!! That's all I can say at this moment. Mike
  13. Hey Gus, I think it looks great, love the look of a big engine in a small car, and going with the white paint was a cool idea. It really pops the hood and the decals, and I think you have got one fine car there sir!! Thanks for posting for us. Mike
  14. Hey Terry, Hope you feeling better, and glad you are around to tell the tale. The good thing about models (well, everything about models is good!!) is that they don't spoil, so they'll be waiting on you. Thank the Lord you went to the Doctor, now hurry up and get well so you and the Mrs. can go for another ride, it is bike weather!! God bless. Mike
  15. Hey Don, Man that is not fair, I was so caught up in the story and flashing forward to seeing it run....man, ya got me!! Very nice literary work and a very nice LSR challenger. Now, about that 0-60 in one second, don't you think body parts will come off.....the driver, not the car?!?! Thanks for posting. Mike
  16. Hey Justin, For a model that has a lot of first for you, it looks like it was built by an old pro, very, very nice, love the way it all came together. This is one sick ride, and that is a compliment!! This is so cool, thanks for sharing with us, can't wait to see what you do next! Mike
  17. Hey James, Man, now that is cool, looks like it just wants to smoke 'em, paint just makes it look just right. You did a great job, and your photography skills are very very good. Thanks for posting for us, it is just too cool!! Mike
  18. Hey Brandon, Had the same problem awhile back, especially with the humidity (I live in Kemah). Everyone's tips are right on the money, try moving the can a little faster and get a little closer, warming in hot water will help a bunch. Try to save up for an airbrush, in the meantime, go to the store, get a bunch of plastic spoons and experiment with painting, priming, polishing, etc. That's what I did to trial and error what worked best. Just keep practicing and keep asking questions, all of a sudden you will be amazed at how much better you will get. Oh, and the spoons are a whole lot cheaper than the cars!! Mike
  19. Hey Craig, Glad to hear everything turned out okay, glad our prayers helped you and your family, please keep us posted on her progress and let her know she has a lot of folks in her corner (and yours too) right here. Mike
  20. Hey Gang, Thanks for all the replies so far, it is appreciated. Brian, I have exactly the same camera, but my micro must need a different F-stop setting. I am still practicing, thanks everyone!! Mike
  21. Hey Gang, Just wondered if some of the great photographers I see on the forums could offer some tips for people, well, like ME. My close-ups never seem to look quite right, have ready several articles, tried experimenting with setting, distance, F-stop, lighting, camera owners manual, on-line tips, etc. and there always seems to be something missing. I know I am being a little critical of myself, but there are some people here who's photos (combined with their wonderful modeling talents) just knock me out, and my efforts always seem to fall short. If you get really motivated, maybe you could highlight the differences for indoor and outdoor shots. Any tips would be appreciated, and thank you in advance for anyone who cares to reply. I love this place!! Mike
  22. Hey Ben, Paint it gold and call it "Mali-brew" and put a beer sponsor decal on it! Mike
  23. Hey Chris, Wow, what else can I say, it looks, well, perfect to me, nice paint & flames, great stance, and a kick-butt attitude. Very, very nice, thanks for posting, can't wait to see a tutorial on the flames. Mike
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