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About MrObsessive

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 10/10/1961

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  • Scale I Build

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  • Location
    Steelton, PA
  • Full Name
    Bill Geary Jr

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  1. Autoquiz 397

    Yup! Sure did! He had responded back and said I had the right answer. I had sent him a PM via his avatar.
  2. Autoquiz 397

    Kinda easy.......I think I got this one!
  3. Johan amx question

    It would be great to see this on my shelf someday............... It would require some bucks though as I have a '70, but not the '71 to make this. Too bad this never made production.........it was to be the '71 AMX, but AMC decided against it due to lackluster sales of the '70. I don't want to trash the '70 I have, maybe find junkers someday to do this.
  4. Johan amx question

    It's safe to assume that if you're planning to build an accurate Johan '69 AMX, get ready for LOT of corrections including the engine. The only thing really correct about that kit is the body-----everything else is either flat out wrong, or not quite accurate for the car. This was originally on my to do list to build, but the Shelby won out. I have all the bits and pieces to do a correct car including the engine, air cleaner decals, and PE. I'd like to shorten up a Mustang chassis as I don't like the Johan chassis at all. Modified inner fenders would be in order too as the kit ones are woefully wrong.
  5. Johan amx question

    I'm not sure the Johan '68-'69 AMX's are represented accurately at all as far as the interior. At least the last reissues of the '69 appeared to be more out of the '70, than the '69. Exterior wise the cars were identical save for slightly different wheels between the model years, and some other very subtle changes. Here are some door panel pics as I've got a ton of 'em since I once owned the 1:1........... 1968 1969 1970 Last time I looked at my kit (buried with others on my third floor), the door panels looked more like the '70 above than '69. Johan's original annuals might have had the correct interior initially, but through the years they used whatever they had on hand to make a particular kit as the tooling aged. Hope this helps you out!
  6. Revell 1966 and 1969 GTO

    Yup! Sure does! Besides stopping the bleed through, it will seal the plastic as far as not letting the hot solvents in the paint get through the plastic and cause the crazing. As I mentioned earlier, today's plastic is not as tough as it was 15-20 years ago. It's been reformulated (read: cheaper to manufacture) and at the same time unless you want to stick to the very basic enamel paints for body colors, that'll be as far as it goes into painting the bodies with actual 1:1 paints. I remember years ago this was a VERY big issue on the Hobby Heaven board (now Spotlight) where guys were SCREAMING about the crazing issues with the then new kit of the C6 Corvette and the 2005 Mustang. It was addressed to Revell and Revell later responded that they could not duplicate the problem that many were having. I can just about guarantee they were not using automotive paints, but the regular hobby enamels and while that might be OK for some, if you want the realistic colors that the cars on the road have, you have to use the hotter paints. What they weren't telling us is that the plastic had indeed changed as I was building kits that were molded in the '90's and I didn't have this issue. Just regular airbrushed Plastikote primer and automotive paint mixed by my local paint shop. Here's another good example of a model I did that was painted in the way I just described................ This Daytona was built back in 2000, and the kit I think came out around 1997-98. It was painted in the way I described----no sealer, no barrier coat, just primer and airbrushed automotive Hemi Orange. You'll see there is no crazing and interestingly enough, this is one of the few metallic paint jobs I was able to rub out and polish with no mottling of the metallic flakes. I had no idea this was a metallic paint till I got it as it's very, very subtle. I wouldn't do this today with this kit if it were molded presently. I just don't like to take chances with paint jobs and I want to be able to get it right the first time as I HATE stripping paint and starting over! This is where it's also VERY important especially today to test your paint out. Hidden areas of the body (under the hood for instance) or plastic spoons is good, but those plastic spoons I think are still a tougher plastic than what the kits are today. HTH!
  7. 63 Cougar 2 restoration-ish 1/25 scale

    Well, I airbrushed just about everything. Gave up on spray cans for bodies back in 1985 as like you, I tried three or four times to paint the model and for whatever reason the paint kept curdling. I got my first cheap airbrush (a Badger 150?) and have been using airbrushes ever since. In the case of my Cougar II, I used a barrier coat of Future Floor Wax (actually an acrylic liquid) as I stopped trusting kit plastic since about 2004-05. I then airbrushed on a several coats of Plastikote T-35 Gray primer, then the color coat was Duplicolor 'Claret Red Metallic' (don't remember which car manufacturer), which was very close to the Cougar's metallic red. Believe it or not, the whole works was clearcoated with Tamiya's X-22 water based acrylic (airbrushed), then rubbed out with Detail Master's polishing cloths and polished up with Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax and a chamois cloth. A bit time consuming, but I'm a BIG believer in not doing body painting till everything else is built up first. I learned a long time ago that painting the body first can lead to big troubles as you have no idea how things will fit in the end. I want to make sure I have a method of getting things in without ruining a paint job with scratches, or breaking something on the body due to lack of test fitting. Hope this helps!
  8. 69 Corvette 427

    I'm restoring an MPC '74 (haven't started a thread yet) and I had to do some corrections in the sail panel area particularly. AMT's never quite looked right in the cowl area, particularly the convertible's windshield always seemed to 'low' for me. At least that's just me noticing that.......others may feel differently! It's curious why those chose to shape the rear window that way.....
  9. 63 Cougar 2 restoration-ish 1/25 scale

    I know how you feel! This was the model back in the mid '80's ("Those Famous Fords" reissue) that turned me off to spray cans forever! And yes, this can be a particularly fiddly kit as I did finally build one years ago. Neat kit with lots of detail though, and it's very interesting to see this turn into a drag car!
  10. 69 Corvette 427

    That is super nice and cleanly done! That's the Revell kit though........MPC and AMT never quite got that roofline right, and Revell's is 'bout spot on.
  11. 1958 Desoto

    Funny, that's a project that's been rolling around in my mind for quite some time! I'd like to duplicate someday this car........... Of course, this is the shorter wheelbase Firesweep model, so some surgery on the chassis would be needed. Not to mention a different front clip........have the '58 Plymouth in mind to make the changes needed to do that. Gotta modify the roof as well to make the lower back window. Just another crazy "Obsessive" idea in mind!
  12. Revell 1966 and 1969 GTO

    Yes, I use an airbrush to put this on. It comes in a spray can, but I don't like it as it comes out waaay too heavy and to me it's just not user friendly. The trick is to put on a very light coat of primer, put on the sealer, then more coats of primer and your color coats. As far as thinner, you can use 91% alcohol but right out of the can, I haven't needed to do that. I use an old Badger Crescendo to put on the BIN. I like using this as not only a barrier for that temperamental red and yellow plastic, but since I can do a lot of body work at times, it's nice to also be able to seal the putty and such as that can react to different paints. Never had a problem with it and here's a car that I did which I used the BIN, but I was very wary of the plastic as there were MANY complaints about even mild paints causing the plastic to craze. I've tried the painting it silver trick in the past, but I later had a problem with the paint chipping in spots as the silver paint didn't seem to allow the overlaying paint to have much 'bite'. If it works for some though, I have no issue with it........I've just had trouble with it. Also, you once again have to be careful what you're spraying the silver on. Since about the mid '00's or so, the plastics in kits has changed a LOT. It's now softer than ever and doesn't seem to react well with the hotter paints that you'll need to use if you're trying to match exact 1:1 colors for your model. I don't like to tempt fate as painting the body is usually the last thing I do when I have a WIP. I want to make sure everything fits with no drama and to have all that work ruined by crazed plastic due to paint does not make for a good day!
  13. 1967 Mercury Puma GT

    How'd I miss this one?? EXCELLENT body work........ I LOVE seeing WIP's like this!
  14. Paint Stripper for a Promo Car

    Chuckling here at work over Tom's comment, I forgot to mention an alternative. Perhaps you can use Easy Oven Cleaner (yellow can)? Maybe using a Q-Tip swab or something, you can try to apply it in an unseen area on the promo and see if it affects it or not. Other than that, I'm not sure what else may work on it without causing some drama.
  15. Paint Stripper for a Promo Car

    I like that! I have to remember that one!