Well, this car was either just intro'd or about to be showing up on the dealers lot when I came along (born October '61). Looks nice but I do have one little nit.......your A pillars should be BMF'd like the rest of the roof trim. GM's new for '62 B-Body hardtops ('cept for Chevy's bubbletop) had the A pillars chromed. This wouldn't be a hard fix since it's external.
OK! Hopefully my LHS will have this kit when I drop in on them tomorrow! One thing though..........I DO NOT like the tires! They're not bad, I just wouldn't care for them on my own build. I would like to build something more pedestrian like this one.
I've posted this elsewhere, and I'm not sure what year it is, but I like the look of the tires on it. Now if I can just find a set that look like those with whitewalls........
Very nice Andy! Interesting about the wheels though as I have this model (I converted it to a D-Type), and I had to take a look. Then I remembered that my wheels and tires are resin as I got a set from Norm Veber (Replicas and Miniatures) years ago when he was making them. Thanks for the heads up Atin, as this is another of my someday builds I'd like to do building it as a regular XK-SS like Andy's.
That's a neat story Pat! I have a fondness for Studes also particularly the Hawks. An early childhood memory of mine is riding in a '57-'58 Hawk occasionally, which looked a lot like the one you have pictured. I can also remember being in an accident in my Uncle's '59 Lark when I was 7-8 years old (in the later '60's), so each time I see one of those, all I can think of is that accident! No one was hurt, but the Lark barely made it home as its front suspension was pretty banged up (my Uncle hit a parked car). I'd LOVE to see Moebius come out with a whole series of Hawks as they were basically the same car from '56 till the end in '64. Naturally there were some detail changes through the years, and the biggest change would be the roofline starting with the '62's and the cut down fins. Your '53 looks very clean! I need to restore the '58 Golden Hawk I converted years ago, but just haven't had the ambition to get to it yet.
Well, just to show how obsessive I can be about details------recently we had a car show that was only a mile away from my house. There was a VERY clean '65 Mustang sitting there, and the owner and I struck up a conversation. He was interested in the model's pics I have on my phone as he knows about the Green Hornet 1:1. When I told him that I wanted to do working windows he said "No Way!" I showed him the video on my phone of my '57 Corvette and '58 Chevy with working windows and he was tickled pink! I asked him if I could see the movement of the front window in his '65, as I had a feeling looking at a shop manual I have of the car, the trailing edge kinda tucks down in a curve to clear the door structure on its way in the channel. As you'll see on this video below, it does appear that way as the glass sort of "pops outward" when it moves back in the up position. No doubt so that it can meet the rear glass so there's no gap. He also did the rear window for me, and I'll be studying that video over and over when it comes time to scratchbuild the mechanism for those.
Thanks Peter! I like that I can spruce up the joint------just a little! David, that's an idea I might try-----the only fly in the ointment is I have to work within the limitations of the thickness of the door. Too much crowding, and things will start to bind. Truth be told, as of this morning I've taken everything apart because due to the geometry of the window, and the angle in which is has to move up and down-------what I made is not going to work well. It would work much better if the window were moving at only a very slight angle, or straight up and down, but that's not the case with this setup. What'll probably end up doing is making a setup similar to what I did for my GTO build (stillborn) years ago as shown here..................
This was a scooch complicated but believe it or not after nearly 15 years, this still works in the model. Unfortunately I used the wrong kind of acetate for the windows, and practically all of them have curled up like potato chips including the windshield.
David, you might want to try a thinner sheet of PET perhaps a .020 size. When I was molding the windows for my '59 Chevy, that's the thickness that I used. Also, I'd try lowering your base a bit. The vacuum has an awful lot to pull against, and that may be what's inhibiting the shape you want. Hope this helps! Edit: Here's some pics off my Fotki album of the buck I used to vacuform for the Chevy..........
I figure while I have the ambition, I need to get started on getting one of the windows working. Since I already got the passenger side door jambs, and the door itself fitting pretty well----may as well start with that side. As you can see here, I'm using some K&S Special Shapes (not sure of the size, but it's their smallest) H-Channel brass to serve as a window guide for the leading edge of the "glass". Since the kit's vent window frames were not quite the right shape, and since I wanted something a bit more in scale than what those represent, I went with this H-channel. So that the guide is anchored solidly in the bottom of the door I used a piece square rod, drilled a hole, and superglued the channel into that. Same went for the front part of the vent window frame. That's about a permanent as it's gonna get as it ain't goin' nowhere!
Here's the other side of the vent window frame, but I can't leave it just bare brass as that.
I roughed up the brass somewhat with some 220 grit sandpaper, and epoxied some plastic strip onto it. Roughing up the surface allows the epoxy to "bite" better into the plastic and it's not as prone to pull away if the brass is too smooth. BTW, the same can be done to aluminum.......I've done this years ago on a build where I wanted an aluminum skin over a gas tank of a car I was building. This does look better and the vent posts say "Mustang" better than the kit molded ones.
When the door is closed, you can see the more in scale appearance that the H-channel will have in representing a guide for the window.
OK! Let's move on to what's going to make all of this work. I have here next to a penny a pair of watch gears. In fact, I have a WHOLE BUNCH of these types of gears as I got literally a ton of these off eBay many years ago, and doubt I'll ever run out of them at the rate I use them and at the pace I build! I filed off the rivet on the other side of the larger gear which was holding on the small gear that has the pin sticking out of it. This won't be needed for what I want to do.
The other small gear was soldered on to a piece of metal wire which is about .024" diameter in size. This was bent to an approximate shape of what the crank handle will look like, but doesn't necessarily represent how the final appearance will be.
I drilled a couple holes onto a plain plastic support sheet for the gears, and wanted to get them to mesh as tight as possible. So far so good................
Next, I wanted to solder a brass arm on to the larger watch gear. This is what will allow the window to move up and down on its guides. The long pin sticking up is what will be in a groove on the bottom of the window channel which will enable it to slide back and forth a bit as the window moves up and down in the door.
Ok-----checking things again to ensure that the gears are still meshing with no problem.
The smaller gear to help keep it in place, has a plastic cover or retainer over it. This holds the gear tightly against the larger gear, and as things get built up on the other side of this support in time, it'll hold together that much better.
This pic here is showing a middle support rod or guide which will keep the window steady as it moves up and down. Since this is a hardtop car, naturally there are no frames on the doors to keep the glass straight. This rod is a must to keep things stable, and it keeps the glass from rocking back and forth sloppily as the crank is being turned. So that there is no binding of the glass as it's being moved up and down, I've tried to keep the middle guide at the same angle as the front guide. The proof will be in the pudding when it comes to final installing of the glass in the channel, and it comes time for it to work.
Finally, here's another video I put together of how the window regulator will move up and down with the turn of the crank. As I mention in the video, because this model is so small, and because of the number of teeth in the gears I have to work with, I don't have the numerous turns that you get when you're rolling up windows as in a 1:1 vehicle. But, what I wanted was the appearance and not the "gimmicky" look of simply turning the window crank, and the window moving in the same direction as in flicking a light switch on and off. As usual, thanks so much for tuning in, and hopefully by the next update the passenger side window and its workings will be fully done, and then I'll move on to some other aspects of the bodywork.
Here's one that was fully built at this years NNL East. Very nicely done with the V8, and you can see how much room this would take up! I have the engine also (in the original box barely started), and this is one of those dream projects I'd like to do sometime.
He also had the Revell Slant Six in front of it...............might be nice to see that one come back too, but unfortunately the tooling for that one is probably long gone.
Chuck, I had to chuckle at your color description! Yeah, this is how I saw most of those by the late '80's into the '90's here in Central PA. They were the "disposable" cars of their day, to be followed by the ever present K-Cars which are all but extinct now. Great job on the weathering, and yes I can almost hear that all too familiar slant six clattering away!
I have one of those in pieces and in need of a resto, and they take up LOTS of room! No doubt that was one the reasons they were not that big of a seller when new, in addition to the high price. A lot of houses back in those days were not very big so not many kids were fortunate to get one of those. The V8 on the other hand naturally didn't suck up so much space, so that's what sold. As Bob says........you never know what might turn up these days! Some of the things that's turned up on the hobby shelves in the last few years we thought we'd never see again. I'm sure there are some more surprises to come.