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MrObsessive

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Everything posted by MrObsessive

  1. The first one is printable, but to be honest, it looks like it's meant more for a FDM printer (filament), than a SLA printer which is the vat type. The second one is a .obj file and could be made printable, but not without a lot of work to get the proper wall thickness. The third one while printable, I wouldn't trust it as looking at the rockers and wheel wells, is just too thin for me. It'll print, but then you might have a tough time getting it off the supports with the risk of the resin "tearing". The last one also looks like it's meant for a FDM printer also. The topology on that one is reeeeeaaal rough. You'd have to do an awful lot of editing in Blender to straighten that one out, and if it's too much for Blender to handle, the program can crash without warning. Models that are solid like that can be edited to be hollow, but get set for a great deal of work to get rid of all the faces/vertices on the bottom and inside the body. There's no way really to tell if a file can be separated without first contacting the designer. It'll all depend on how they formatted the file, and how they designed what parts are to be separated where. The printable files can be tough to thicken up if too thin, as they've already been "altered". Yet again another reason I'd rather do my own files from the very beginning (.obj), than to try and fix another file that's already been thickened up in many cases. On Cults, usually if the model is displayed in blue, the file is already printable. The file type should be listed on the side------.STL files mean they are printable, but that can be very subjective from file to file.
  2. I've 3D printed the '68 Mustang coupe before and showed it here, this time around however I did a considerable amount of editing the original file, and also got a hold of some nice wheel files to go with it. For those of you that don't like FB, I had posted it there and they're still talking about it! The printable file which can be found on Cults3D.com, was intended as an open door model, which for me is no big deal as I can fabricate hinges and door jambs for models. I thought it would be interesting to try a closed door car, but this time make it so that the door and trunk shut lines are much more visible as they were all but invisible when I tried this before, and I thought the shut lines were way too shallow. So working in Blender, I heavily edited the doors and trunk so that there was some "depth" to the shut lines, and also put a "lip" or "flange" around the three sides of the doors/trunk so that they could mesh with the inside vertices/faces in the body, and not get lost during printing. The results turned out very well, and it's another car that for whatever reason, the model makers won't touch. I've got a bunch of pics to show, along with some Shelby mag wheels files that I converted from a video game file and made those printable. There's also a set of GT wheels I printed, which are part of the original .obj files of the car which I have. The first set of wheels to my sight I thought could have been a little better defined. I would do these wheels again as you'll see in the pics below, after some heavy editing of the files. I've got a 1960 Studebaker Lark two door hardtop conversion (I converted it from a four door sedan file), that I just finished up, and the hardtop doors I ran with the Mustang hood (which turned out bad-----explanation a little later, they came out pretty good, albeit the trim is a bit faint. This was attempt number 1 with the hood, I did do some changes to the hood so it wouldn't be quite so wide after it's printed, but it came out badly which is interesting, as I had ran the file just last week for my Mustang CS and there was no issue. I got the Shelby Mag wheels off of a video game file car (Forza Horizon) which were actually part of a '68 Barracuda, which is an EXCELLENT file BTW, and one definitely worth printing sometime. I knew that Ford used this same wheel for their car, so I converted the files to be printable, and while they don't look bad, I thought they could have turned out better. My first edit was to get rid of the peak or "point" in the center of the hub. If some sort of decal or PE is to go in the center, that peak would be annoying. The wheel on the right is where you can see the peak was flattened. I know that in order for the wheels to be printable, the object itself has to be fully "closed" with no open areas which will lead to trouble with printing. I went around the entire circumference of the back of the wheel, and closed everything off. This was after I narrowed the wheel itself to be more of wheel cover which the 1:1 car actually had. I tried again with the next printing, and the results were much, MUCH better and cleaner. The GT wheels also were problematic. The original file has some sort of hub against the back of the wheel, and it was trapping resin. I thought I better edit out the hub and try these again, as trapped resin will be troublesome weeks or months down the road. You can see here where the back of wheel wasn't quite printing correctly which told me the hub was an issue. One could put in drain holes, but that still doesn't solve the issue that the hub should be printing solid to begin with. The second set of wheels after the hub was edited out. The liquid you see is water as I literally was taking pics not long after the IPA took off the excess resin, washed, cured, and were still a bit wet. The GT wheels fitted in a set of AMT's parts pack redlines. I scaled the wheels to be somewhere around 17mm so that they would fit in the bead of the tire properly, and not slip through. Much cleaner appearing this time compared to the first run. The same with the Shelby mags.........around 17mm so they would fit in the tires. The PE emblem I have is a bit small for the hub. This would be better suited if a snake decal could be made to fit inside the hub. The following are pics of the car now off the build plate, washed up and cured......... From my .obj files, I did convert, scale and edit in the side "vent" which the original printable file doesn't have, and I also added rocker panel trim. Side support marks are very easily sanded down, and are NECESSARY to keep the print as steady as possible to prevent print shift, and distorted side panels. As can be seen, the trunk shut lines are much better defined. I put my Green Hornet I'm working on against the print body. If AMT's body is on the mark for 1/25, I'd say my scaling came out darn near perfect. BTW, the Green Hornet is on the downside of getting done. BMF, and fitting of the glass is all that's needed and then it's final assembly. I printed the hood again just this morning-----I took pics but they're on my phone. It came out perfect, and the issue was another part I edited in that I wanted to print with that. This was the upper grille section, but after the second attempt which failed, I edited the file again and took off the grille section and printed it as its own part. Both printed great, and that solves that issue with the hood. I've had comments about what do I do with all the cars I print......I respond back to them that my intention isn't always to build a particular car at once after I print it. I may print the car as I just happen to like that particular car. Same with a model kit. We buy kits not with the intention of always building it, we just happen to like that car. Thanks for reading this very long post!
  3. You'll want to get gloves such as can be seen here. As far as 3D programs if you want to get into modifying files and such in the future, you'll want to get familiar with Blender, Fusion360, 3DBuilder, NetFabb to name a few. Tons of vids out there to show what functions do what. Be careful of some files that say "printable". A number of times I've gotten "ready to print" files that turned out to be waaaay too thin in the wall thickness, and unfortunately, because the .stl file had already been altered, it was VERY difficult if not impossible to change it. Especially for car bodies this is critical, and your wall thickness should be at least 1mm MINIMUM. It's the major reason I'd rather start with the native .obj files and do my own format conversions and wall thickness------been burned by a couple "printable" files so far. I can tell immediately from looking at the wheel wells of a printable file if it's worth the trouble buying it. If it appears thin, it's a no-go in my book. Hope this helps!
  4. OK! Here are some screenshots of the Shelby........the different colors represent texturing which is used as part of the video game format. This file is so good (one separate file for a COMPLETE ACCURATE interior), it even includes a file for the 10 spoke wheels. Now you have to extract them, but for the exception of the wheels I showed above, NO ONE has done that wheel correctly.
  5. Thanks Brian! The files that a lot of the parts came from were in fact a SUPER SHARP '68 Shelby Mustang Fastback game file (Forza Horizon). Maybe one of these days, I'll reformat and print that file. I'll see if I can get a screenshot of the body........someone knew what they were doing when they designed this car for a video game of all things.
  6. This is another one I posted on FB, and folks are still talking about it. I based this one again off a printable file of the regular Mustang coupe, but quite a bit of editing/scaling went into the body to first make it a convertible, and then make it a Shelby version. The Shelby parts came from .obj files I have of a '68 Shelby Fastback, and its files originated from a Forza Horizon video game which I converted. I gotta say that this particular Shelby puts to shame anything I've seen come from the kit makers, as its body lines are EXACTLY CORRECT. No, I don't plan on selling the files, or the model...........I get that question a lot on FB, and I do this strictly for my own hobby use particularly something that's my own creation. I've a bunch of pics below......some of them I'll describe what was up in that particular pic. Enjoy! Print time for the convertible was 16+ hours with 2,977 layers. I get questions from time to time as to why it takes so long------GOOD prints take time with a high resolution (.030mm layer or less) set on your printer. The 3D prints you see with rough surfaces and horrific layer lines, I can guarantee were a rush job, and were done rather quickly. Good luck in trying to get rid of those lines in critical areas such as scripts or body trim. Edited doors came out very well as they originally had the window frames on 'em. I never thought that looked quite right as they were a bit heavy-handed, so I edited those out for the CS and the convertible. The Shelby taillight panel came from one of the game file '68 Shelby's I have. The file had to be converted, scaled, and then thickened up to survive printing. The rear bumper came from the original .obj files I have of this Mustang. Due to the scale origin of the printable body, it had to be edited to suit as far as scale, file format, and print-ability. I extruded the lettering just a bit on the Shelby nose, since the nose itself (another game file origin) had to be thickened up for printing. In Blender, I extruded the letters so that they were a bit above the surface but still would mesh with the vertices underneath. They came out pretty well, and we'll see down the road how they'll show up after BMF and painting. If all else fails, I have Model Car Garage's very nice PE set he has now of this car. The hood was yet another '68 Shelby game file that had to be converted for use here. I actually like this hood a bit better than the one I'm using on my '68 Green Hornet project! Same decklid from the CS I'm using here............... The rollbar came out a wee bit wonky. This is an easy fix though with some liquid resin and a UV light. Sand to shape, and that's it. The door sills came from a '65 Mustang coupe file which was also part of the Forza Horizon game series. ANOTHER ONE that has spot on body lines, and one I wouldn't mind converting and printing someday. Side scoops are from the same '68 Shelby Fastback game files. These are not printed, but cast resin and IMO, not very well. I'm looking at a file on gamemodels.ru where they have a '68 Barracuda file that has the CORRECT wheels. The MOPARS and Ford shared this design.......GM's were slightly different in the spoke area near the center cap as they were "straighter" while the Ford and MOPAR ones were curved. These 10 spokes were 3D printed by @Superbird McMonte and are super excellent! I'm going to use his wheels on my Green Hornet, but they wouldn't look bad on this convertible either. These were 10 spokes 3D printed and cast by Plamoz. They were only available for a very short time, and then for whatever reason, they pulled the plug never to be seen again. It's the reason you want to grab items in the hobby you want if you can, as they can disappear without a trace, The same goes for 3D files too. From time to time, I'm working on an uptop for the convertible. Lots of editing will be involved here, and more than likely I'll be getting the putty and resin out after it's printed to get the finer details. I have a bunch of pics of the uptops on '68 Mustangs. I don't want the one out of the Monogram '65 Mustang kit as it's too "boxy" and "straight". Convertible tops have a certain droop and sag in places on them and I don't want mine to look like a hardtop with ridges on the roof. Thanks for lookin'!
  7. Monogram 1957 Corvette. Maybe about a year after the kit came out ('77)? I was a senior in high school and I wouldn't touch a model before that. A disappointing rainy Saturday had me in a hobby shop looking around, I saw the box art and was very impressed..........the rest is history! 😁
  8. Pete, I'll have to keep you posted on that. I've got sooooo many 3D projects lined up including getting my builds done before GSL next year, I don't want to commit to something and then not be able to follow through. If you know someone or a service that can print it, I can get you the files you need. I have this kit also, and somewhere along the line I'd like to take the file and convert it to be printable for the 1/12 one.
  9. OK.......I came across two car files which had a left hand drive dash. One was rather "blah", the other one was MUCH nicer and very detailed. I got some screenshots of it in Blender which is a CAD program for 3D files. The way it works with 3D printing, what I have here is something done in a .obj format. The format needs to be converted (this program does it) to a .stl file, which makes it able to be worked with for printing. In the large scale you mentioned, that may be possible----I do know it can be done in 1/24-25 as I just printed a car using many of these same types of files I described. Interesting enough, the Z car file I downloaded was in fact a ZG, both of which I have in 1/12 and 1/24 Tamiya kits.
  10. Somewhere out there, files I do believe can be had for that car. I belong to gamemodels.ru forum which there's LOTS of cars out there that can be downloaded from game files, and be made printable. I don't have that car on my radar, but now I'm going to get nosy and see if there's a file indeed for that. It might even be left hand drive, but if not-----I've mirror imaged parts (and bodies) so that they can be printed. Now my curiosity is up!
  11. I printed this just a day or so ago, and I thought I'd post it here as it's been all over FB, and some have gone crazy over it. 1968 Mustang California Special which was a greatly modified file by me, as there are no files of this car out there. The main body file came from Cults3D.com, but I had to add the rear fender caps, taillight panel, new rear valance, side scoops, door jambs (the original file was very weak in this area), trunk spoiler, and I took off some of the trim on the roof and door frames as IMO they were a bit too heavy handed. The parts I added came from Forza game file cars of other Shelby's, and the original .obj file I have of the 1968 Mustang coupe. Print time was just over 16 hours, and it was printed on my Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K at .030mm layer height, with AA turned on. Enjoy! This was originally a test piece for the nose section of a '68 Shelby convertible. It was the second failure for the 1/43, so I went back to the drawing board, and zeroed in on what the issue was. I've since printed the convertible which finished just this morning (1/25 scale), and later on I'll do a thread on that. I got curious to see if the Green Hornet chassis/interior that I built, would it fit in the car with no issue. Well it does quite well, and with some slight wheelbase tweaks, the AMT '67 chassis would work very well with this car when the time comes to build it. The Shelby Green Hornet is on the downside of getting done............hopefully by next month it's all done and I can move on to the next one. The wheels I extracted out of the .obj files I have of the regular Mustang coupe, and the files were then converted to be made printable. I extruded the GT lettering just a bit after the wheel was thickened up.....they showed up well, but a lot of pics of CS's don't have the GT lettering on 'em. No matter, I can use them just the same, and there's certainly Mustangs and other Fords of the era that used these.
  12. You'd want to get in touch with Robert Burns on FB as "Too Many Projects" as he has that very car as I have one. The '76 Chevy chassis may work, but not without some stretching and tweaking as the Olds' were longer. Here are some pics of mine.......3D printed and VERY clean. BTW, he's also on eBay as "ModelRob", and he has a YT channel under the name "Too Many Projects".
  13. YIKES! Did you buy those or did they cure that way?? I just printed up these wheels recently and I had nothing like that occur. Those look like Shapeways wheels..........I'd try soaking them in 91% IPA to see if that helps.
  14. I don't worry about that. The resin I use for the Phrozens (their brand) mentions nothing about that, and if that's the case, the shrinkage is negligible.
  15. That shouldn't really affect that as those layers are getting cured just before the build plate rises. I had an issue with the coupe version I did of this car when I had it tilted the other way------it kept putting some sort of "crease" or "fold" on the passenger side rear quarter. Sort of print shift, and it just wasn't this file, but other files I noticed that. Doing it this way seems to have blunted that, and from the coupe file I just created a California Special which is running now, and I have it tilted the same way as the convertible. I'll post pics later on after it's all done. Thanks for the nice words!
  16. It's going to be quite a long time before I build that one. I needed to see if I could convert any of his files to be printed, and it came out very well.
  17. This is a body I just printed the other day at .030mm layer height. Frankly, overly obtrusive layer lines are a real turnoff for me. I'd sooner take the extra time needed to get the body right than try to be super fast and make a quick buck like I see some vendors (on eBay for example) do. That's just me though...........
  18. I would set it to 30 (.030). That'll give you a better surface, although the model will take longer to print. Good models should take time to get the finer details correct........I see many models turning up on eBay that have HORRENDOUS layer lines on 'em. Those can be a nightmare to get rid of especially if they're crossing over sensitive areas such as trim or scripts. They're cheap, but as the saying goes "You get what you pay for".
  19. That sounds like uncured resin coming out. If that's the case, that will be nothing but trouble from this point forward. If the body is overly thick, when it was printed the resin wasn't curing fast enough before the next layer was put over it. That's what can lead to uncured resin, especially among thicker printings. You can try to wash the body with some 91% alcohol to clean it up a bit. If it's still oozing, you may want to run a UV light over it, but frankly........I'd be contacting the vendor to let them know what's up. They may not know there's an issue. BTW, the resin I use in my printer (Phrozen Aqua Gray 4K), I have no trouble sanding or sharpening up panel lines if needed. I don't know what they're using, but it sounds like really troublesome stuff.
  20. For whatever reason, AMT has ignored the '69 Chevy Impala Sports Coupe, and keep giving us the formal roof 1970 Caprice. I thought at one time of taking the '70 Chevy, modifying the roof from the '70 Buick Wildcat (ESPECIALLY the C pillar), and doing this version. Well, not long ago, I came across a series of 3D models on this site here. I was quite impressed by what I saw, and I got in touch with the designer of those model as he's on FB. He then posted a bunch of pics on FB of what he was working on, and one of them happened to be a 3D file of the '69 Impala with the CORRECT Sports Coupe roofline. I bought the file, and set about to convert them to make it printable. He did offer it in a .stl file, but I'd rather work with the .obj files as I can convert them later as for me it's easier to work with in that format. Here are pics of the results. I have to say that this is the ONLY correct version of this car I've seen. I've seen the resin versions out there, but to my eyes the roofline is simply not correct. I have gotten other very nice files from him before the Chevy.........a '79 Pontiac Bonneville, '77 Grand Prix, 1980 Cadillac Seville, and a 1970 Mercury Marauder X 100. The body has a few print issues which are easily fixed with some liquid resin and a UV light. The trunk file I'll need to print later as that wouldn't fit on the build plate as it was. Yes, that is a 1/58th scale Impala I did as a test print before I did the larger one. 😁
  21. Stay tuned.........I can do a post on that. ⏱️
  22. If you have Windows 10, you can try this program. I have 11 so I had to download it as Microsoft dropped it for whatever reason. I've used this to cut bodies in half before I got the larger printer.
  23. Len, take a look at my vid here..........there's no heat control on the unit, you have to look at the sheet as it starts to "sag". It may take a bunch of tries as I explain.
  24. That looks really good Doug! Blender is a good program for editing 3D models, but one thing that drives me crazy about it is how it thickens bodies up. It bulks everything all at once, and I have to put the model in "separate parts" mode and go around and lessen the thickness on the trim and bumpers for example. I noticed this particularly with a '69 Chevy Impala 3D file that I finally got to print. The trim was looking too heavy handed for my tastes, and I had to go part by part and shrink things down. The trim on yours looks good! This is another model that the kit makers have ignored over the years----chalk one up for another reason to get into 3D printing!
  25. Yup.....it's why I spent a lot of time hacking up the '66 Mustang and using its upper rear quarters and roofline (modified) on the lower body on my '68 Shelby Green Hornet WIP. A lot of work, but you simply can't put the notchback roof on a Fastback body. The rear quarters on those are "swoopier", thus a bit shorter at the very tail end on the Fastback. Some folks however get a bit miffed when you mention that to them.............
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