And thank you for asking for the advice on yours Wayne, because it has also helped me on deciding what to do with my late friend's build as well. I actually have it on the bench right now and was looking it over earlier today, but as soon as I figure out if his idea was going to work, I'm going to put the finishing touches on the Olds. I do know that it is not all Johan, the frame, firewall, and front header panel are all a mystery, and there are a few parts that are mixed in that I have no clue if he was intending on using on this or not.
That has been what I have been thinking, too. I like the colors and what is done on it, that is why I've thought of just putting the finishing touches on it and calling it done for him. This one also gave me a scare about a week ago, life caused everything to go into storage a little over 4 years ago, and one other WIP that was painted and wrapped in a paper towel to protect the paint job, and the paper towel was stuck to the paint on that kit. It was a heavier Scott Shop Towel though that one was wrapped in, the Olds was just in a regular paper towel the way he had it in the box. As soon as I seen the damage on mine, I checked the Olds for damage too, because both kits were packed away in the same packing box. Thankfully this one was good, because I would have been heartbroken if it received damage too, because I would never be able to match the paint.
Honestly, I don't think there is probably any builder who could truthfully say they "fully" detail a model, and if they do I'd still have to question it. I take the term "fully" detailed to mean that EVERYTHING that would be on the 1:1 would also be on the model. Wiring harnesses throughout the body, wiring to everything in the dash, wiring to the power windows and locks (not to mention everything that works those parts), the list can go on and on, and having all this done would be my definition of fully detailed.
I almost fell out of my chair laughing at that last sentence Mike! You sound like me with my "seems like forever" Ford custom project and engines for it. I've tried everything from a V12 Allison aircraft engine, a Detroit 16V71, a Detroit Series 60, a 4306 Cat, and even dropped a Detroit 8V92 between the frame rails the other night, and if I had a kit that had one, would have probably tried a 3408 kitty in it. I only know it will have an engine!
Believe me, having driven flat tops, midroofs, and condo sleeper trucks, it's much nicer to be able to stand up to put your pants on in the morning! Once I had a Freightliner FLD 120 flattop that still half asleep tried to stand up in one morning, would still like to know the genius who thought the big square light in the center of the roof just forward of the edge of the bed was a good idea, gives me a headache just thinking about it!!
That just might be that the kit windows might be off, I don't have a kit here to compare it too. Other than the pic I mentioned earlier, which KJ supplied an even better one to help you, I did find a couple in a Google search (and it took a while LOL) that has an older sleeper like the T600 and the flat roof.
Maybe comparing the height if the side windows compared to the lower edge of the front might help to see if AMT messed up the front window position, that's why I tried to find close to the same angle for the older cabs as the newer orange one. It may be more than an optical illusion though, because to me it seems that the orange and red trucks front windows do match in position, but on the purple one the windows do seem larger and lower.
That was what I was suggesting, use the pic Clayton posted as a guide, and hopefully with the studio sleeper. Actually though, you'd be surprised how close the sleeper in the T600 actually is to the newer style like in the pic, the biggest changes are just the window on the access door and the top windows, the shape is about the same on them, the bar in between has just been deleted to make it a one piece window. The windows on the access door are optional if I remember correctly, but many do have them. The slope in the roof to meet the sleeper shouldn't be to hard, regular Bondo would make the transition and blend everything together. I used Bondo in the roof of my custom sleeper Ford that is on here, and after 5 years it has held up quite well, including the curve that is in the roof of the original kit sleeper I used and kept through the entire length of the sleeper. The blending would probably also lessen the illusion of the overhang. I think the main parts of the newer sleepers are the same as the kits, but I'm not 100% sure so don't hold me to that. As for seeing behind the stacks, what are you trying to see back there? If it is to see if there is a gap between the cab and sleeper like the kit would be built, there isn't. The cab and sleeper, while I'm not sure if they are a true integrated sleeper like the Cascadia I drive is, there is no seam between the cab and sleeper. I have a pic of another W900L that I have as one of my desktop backgrounds that shows that area a little better, but still has stacks, as soon as Photobucket is not down for maintenance (AGAIN!! ) I'll post it for you. I'll also try to keep an eye out while I'm at work to see if I can come across one that just may roll into the distribution center.
So even the kit that is supposed to replicate the real truck will end up looking like my custom mock up then? That really doesn't surprise me though, the "Movin On" Kenworth kit doesn't yield an accurate replica of the real truck either.
Mark, here is a pic of one of the trailers used in the show, and even though I zoomed into the pic to the max of 500%, I can't make out the name of the trailer manufacturer on the front lower corner of the trailer, even though it appears to start with a "B". If you notice, there is not a reefer on this one, it had been removed and this trailer had been used by Universal Studios for a storage trailer.
That and the next pic are from a site you may find helpful in your build: http://www.tvtruckin.com/index.html
The truck is owned by Paul Sagehorn, who also owns an original "Movin On" Kenworth. As Doug stated, and I'm not sure which trailer he is referring to, AMT/ERTL made both a Great Dane 40 foot reefer with a correct era Thermo King reefer unit and also a Freuhauf 40 foot reefer that I believe also had a correct era Thermo King unit as well. This is another pic I just found in one of the research files I have on the truck, it's Paul Sagehorn's rebuild with the reefer unit installed.
Also, just as a little FYI, if your kit is the original BJ and the Bear kit, this shouldn't be an issue, but if the kit is a regular AMT Kenworth K100 Aerodyne, the frame will need to be shortened to have the correct look to the original truck. I've never had the original BJ and the Bear kit, but it should have the correct frame for the original. I'm actually working on a custom version of this right now using a longer frame from a Papa Truck kit because I like the long frame look. This was a mock up I did of one of the regular non BJ and the Bear kits, and if you would like I can measure this frame's length so you can make sure you have a true BJ and the Bear kit and not one of these regular kits with some decals and a box, or your truck will end up looking like this: