Yeah, as Luc said about his Prestige set, the previous issue of just the trailer released in the mid 2000s had the wheels chromed also.
An idea since the wheels aren't chromed in the latest issue, there are ten hole steel wheels that look just like the Alcoa aluminum that could be painted to match or contrast the trailer for a slightly custom look.
Also for phantom duallies, Lindberg made the 1/20 Toyota and Nissan kits. As for some of the older Chevys, fenders from an early stepside are all that's needed to make a GM dually from the 70s and 80s, and from what I remember of the older Dodges, they just had flat large fender flares.
Another idea is just graft the front clip of the 80-86 to the cab of the 87-91. The same cab was used from 80 to the 96 model year on F150s and until 97 or 98 for the 250s & 350s. The tailgate and taillights would need backdated and used from the Bronco if you want a 100% correct 80-86, but what's not to say a newer tailgate and taillights replaced worn out or damaged parts.
Hmmmm, no respect for truckers?? Remember that when you sit down to eat tonight, the food you're putting in your mouth, the plate you're eating it off of, the fork you are using to eat with, and the table and chair you and your dinner are sitting on are all there because of one thing, THE AMERICAN TRUCKER!! I've been doing this thankless job for 17 years, and just get SO infuriated at people that have the attitude that little magical fairies put all their goods on a shelf for them. I'm a proud professional but will admit there are some out here that do not look at the job the way I do, the steering wheel holder, and all that were involved in this accident are dumb steering wheel holders that are giving the proud professional like me bad names. Well, off my soapbox now, I have groceries to deliver so more disrespectful people like you can eat!
I'm with you there brother! I was always taught "No load is worth your life or anyone else" and I still hold true to that to this day. I would have parked until conditions improved as well and crept along slowly until I did find safe haven, but super truckers think otherwise. I know firsthand how it is to get "the call", I lost my brother in a crash in 1992. His rig went of the road and crashed into a bridge abutment due to a sudden heart attack. I started driving 6 years later, and keep safety of myself and others my #1 priority!
After reviewing the pics again, it looks like the mount itself may be solid (don't know, have picked one up for my stash yet) and if it is, a pivot would need to be made there. It still wouldn't be a difficult fix though.
Yeah, I'm almost certain both of you are correct. I remember the single axle parts got me to having ideas of making just a single axle tractor from one of my plow kits for my doubles, and I'm almost certain that came from there being fifth wheel parts in the plow as well.
Jon, I looked at your build thread and noticed that there are a mix of white and black molded parts, and since I haven't gotten this reissue (even though I had the blue Aerodyne as a kid) and figure the dash was still molded in the black plastic, was color was it molded? All the previous suggestions are great if it was in the black, but if by chance it was on the white sprue, you could take a very fine tipped sanding stick and carefully sand the paint from the gauge numbers just enough to where the white starts showing through.
Another variation of Jeff's tip, you could get a very fine point Sharpie and follow his tip. Craft stores like Michael's offer various styles of drawing pens, pencils, and markers that I have see many use to do just as Jeff suggested. I don't know if they still make them or not, but I have red, white, and silver Sharpie fine point paint markers that I think I bought at Michael's for fine detailing purposes. That is what I used on this shifter to replicate a 13 or 18 speed splitter valve.
I also used it on the steering column to replicate the four way flasher pull switch.
Yes Brian, Andy is right, and the lift mechanism IS there. If you look at Allen's pics, specifically pic #7 (the second on after Part 2), you will see the lift (silver) and lift arm complete with lift height adjustment holes. There is also the attachment hole in the plow, so a piece of small chain would be all that's needed to hold the plow up off the ground. Now if you want to go 100% full rivet counter and have it 100% prototypical, the lift arm would have to be movable up and down and have a support coming from the lift mechanism to the lift arm to act as the 1:1 hydraulic cylinder to hold the lift arm in the "UP" position, but just for normal display purposes, a short chain for "UP" and a longer chain (with some slack) for "DOWN" would be fine.
Oh, and I have driven plows in the past with the WV DOT, and the truck was a F550 dump with spreader box and a very similar plow up front.