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About Sergey

  • Birthday 02/25/1977

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  • Location
    Moscow, Russia
  • Full Name
    Sergey Torkhov

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MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. Hello, Friends! Let's continue our perversions. Re-glued the front left upper corner. It became even. It's time to make the fire wall. I have finally found a picture of the most "stripped" front wall of a cab Started from styrene: Next - putty The floor is made of "candy" plastic 1.5 mm It will be further developed (however, like everything else) Molded a plastic pad under the wipers. It's still an intermediate option. And I tried on a long-prepared etching Enjoy watching!
  2. Hello, Patrick! Beautiful work! I like the idea and the way you make it! I would make a grill by alternating plastic (Evergreen) and metal strips. Then would glued it in frame with plastic glue and take the metal strips off. Other way is to glue Evergreen strips on mesch (it is visible through vertical bars on 1:1 Lincoln), but you also need some conductor for spacing. One more thing: I can see that edge line on headlighs bacame smooth. May be it's better to use some metal strip or angle here too? Keep it going!
  3. Francis,my congrats about Lenco shifter! I know how hard can it be to put such little things together, when you limited in place! Thanks to you - I also now know what Lenco shifter is! Not completely, but I have an idea. I very like your alternator! Top notch, as alaways!
  4. Hello, Friends! There is nothing to show about plastic today, but I will show the first modest experience in 3D modeling. Front hub Many thanks to Mikhail aka Stratos75! He has drawed the cap. It was already faster with the rear hub I'm slowly getting into progress. I should learn a little more and to may print out something more serious :dance:
  5. Thank you, Anton! My slipway was ill- conceived to glue the cab level.
  6. Hello, Friends! It's time to upgrade, after 3.5 months. About the long break a little later. I have sanded trim lines in the draft version Yes, I noticed that gutters run along the upper edges of the roof... ...decided to reproduce them. Cut "skis" out of brass Something like this they could look like: And here's the reason for the break: 5 or 6 times I glued the side panels. I was never able to glue them perfectly, and even squeeze a piece of brass between the roof and the sidewall In general, "skiing" has been postponed for now. Then I'll stick it on...from Evergreen. I took care of the front axle. The donor Ford has a narrower track than the GMC. Front axle with rotary fists is about 64mm, and you need about 80. I cut off the plastic axles from the gearbox, replaced them with brass. It's harder. Drilling the differential was difficult. One half inside is a pipe, but of a smaller diameter than necessary. The rotary knuckles also had to be drilled to accept the brass pipe. First with drills, and then, at the edges, with an end mill. Yes, the reciprocal parts of the fists were also drilled and cut to accept the brakes. The right one hasn't been cut yet I tried on the wheel on the cargo hub. There was a reason to start learning 3D. To begin with, the wheel hubs are the very thing. The front of the cabin lacks rigidity. Pasted sheet plastic for now Only in the photo I saw that the front of the roof on the left is lower than on the right. I'll have to re-glue it again Enjoy watching!
  7. Interesting build! About used engine: the border between paint and dirt turned out too sharp for reel thing. I would take cotton swab with a drop of solvent and wipe off the excess on some border lines. About the flares: I would cut them to hood line OR lengthen them to the bottom of side skirts. Good luck!
  8. Magnificent work! My compliments to your wife, Conrad! But I supose, that 1/12 motorcycle will fit the scale better.
  9. Thank you, Anton! As a matter of fact the engine is too simplified (visible part of it) to get work.
  10. Hello, dear colleagues! Today is the day when there is something to show, but not so much has been done: I made a batch of castings from transparent resin. While I'm writing the post, the second batch is maturing I've made slits in the handles of the rear doors I cut the door cards in half, because the upper part is the same color as the door. Added a magnet I have sanded the tires first with the 80th grid, then with the 220th. Sawed the inner back wall to make it easier to insert the glass later. ... although it was possible not to do. The glasses slip through these frames. I decided to cut a couple of details of the engine compartment. My usual problem with the details of different colors The photo shows a drilled exhaust pipe (green arrow). For contrast, the pipe under the tow bar has not yet been drilled (red arrow) ... and here - already drilled. I really got carried away, I took off too much I decided to carry out the dry fit to the maximum Please note that the hood does not close, no matter what I already do... It is necessary to disassemble and adjust all the parts responsible for this. As a summary: The kit is replete with details. Some are even frankly superfluous. Many parts are cast with zero clearance. Barely fit into each other. There are a couple of parts with such a gap that polystyrene needs to be glued. But the plastic will have to be removed from the hood hinge/ bumper/frame. Because of all that has been said, you definitely won't have to be bored. However, the vehicle is worth it. Brutal-brutal, and everything opens up. You just need patience with fine-tuning. Enjoy watching photos and ask questions!
  11. Thank you David, Dan, Jonathan, Anton and JASON! Good evening, colleagues! A little more progress: I have made an antenna, well, and put everything under the hood as best I could Perhaps I have reached the stage where I can put this project on pause and already do the other two. A couple of general plans. I am always glad to have questions and suggestions!
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