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Everything posted by Sergey

  1. Hello Daniel! Try to contact to Mikhail Petrenko. His nickname is: stratos75 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=526712
  2. Thank you, Anton! I will use copys of steering column and side mirrirs for sure. Door cards, and dash board, and seats are different from silverado and Astro van.
  3. "Hi, Gents!" (c) Have found some time to scratch more plastic. Here is roof sandwich .. and back wall And moving forward I've found difficulties: the roof bends forward just behind the stamping and because it curves in two planes, I had to make a cutout But this solve the probleme partly. Roof bending should be smooth and have bigger angle. So I inserted 1mm square rod between layers. different view Also right stand was accidently cut in process (marked by arrow) and glued back/ :sorry: Final stage so far, but stands should be bended more. I pulled myself together and made a slipway Further upgrade Well, fitting Thank you for viewing!
  4. Thank you, Ron! I will keep it in mind if I can get testors liquid cement 3502xt in Russia.
  5. Hello, Gents! Last work has brought sad results, but perhaps someone needing this experience. So I masked off cab & bed to spray insulations & plastic Window frames were masked with foil. I thought it more accurate. But foil is hard to cut through sometimes with first cut. Second cut can damage paint under mask And you get this kind of shame: May be I should take new blade before cutting.
  6. Thank you, Francis! I guess the material is - polyvinyl chloride. Haven't glued them jet. Perhaps I will use super glue - gel or epoxy.
  7. Thank you, Francis! Hello, colleagues! It's time to start a cab. As I came to assemble a 1999 Silverado on a nearby topic, and Silverado & TopKick have the same bed, it is better to take measurements from Silverado bed, when it not glued to frame. And before that it's better to make cab. Armed with PDF-files Cab have rounded sides... ...so I desided to cut them from vent tube Printed drawings and glued on Back wall has difficult shape. It has a step outwards to increase cab space 2,5 inch more. So I divided this element to 3 pieces. The first one, which is reflecting the back contour of a cab I cut from styrene. It was mistake. It don't keep flat shape. Next I tried transparent plastic from candy box. Here is how looks pattern. Cutouts are not ready jet Sandwiched back wall. By the way, does anyone have a picture of 2000 TopKick's firewall? The only photo I could find was this ...but I'm afraid it's 1990 TopKick.
  8. I guess it might be too tricky to find 2 parallel wiper arms amoung PE wipers. You better leave these. One more thing: will you paint black middle line between grills?
  9. Thank you Chaz! You very kind, but every one can make things I've done! It's not so difficult.
  10. Thank you, Anton! I used Tamiya's epoxy putty to make tail light reflectors. Then I treated they with Dremel like tool. Good luck to you!
  11. Thank you, friends for your comments! I will try to picture this GMC outdoors as soon as possible.
  12. Thank you, guys, for your comments! To finish this build I desided to weather dump bed inside. After couple of heavy loads (especialy - gravel) paint starts to slide away, leaving a bare metal, which starts to rust. I started with silver alkid and dry brush. This is example of a wrong way: So the next stage was to cover all this nightmare, using air brush with Mr Hobby's Burnt iron. The paper on photo is template. The corners were sprayed with matt black. And dots of rust were squirted from hard brush. My first attempt. I guess I must change the brush & try different paint thickness Also I learned to use pigment powder to make ground, stuck on the corners. First I fill corners with PVA glue and strew the powder over it. Then press it down with a brush. When I got powder soaked with glue, I srtew a little more powder over. PVA leaves rubber like tape, when it dries, and it is better to cover it with a powder. Next I sprayed it all using Mr hobby matt varnish with minimal preassure to fix the powder. Tell me - what do you think about this work?
  13. Well done, Brian! I hope it is not too late to say that wiper arms need some more bending each side.
  14. Let's dust off the topic Still learning to mask off the parts
  15. Hello, Gents! Slowly going to finish! Let's start from nice touches. Her I made small red copys from originals, painted chrome. Sunvisors & front stand upholstery (marked with arrows). Glued windscreen with epoxy Rear window I really wanted to make a crushed stone crumb on the tread, as in the photo Yes, I planned to make the gravel in the body from drying pellets. These are sometimes put in new shoes inside bags . I picked it up - from the packages from the glucose test strips. And then rubbed on a spatula (in the photo-on the right). In my opinion, it turned out better than ZIP pigment. And here on the right - a bottle of those pellets. It took me years to collect this amount. Front wheels with nuts & nipples There is almost invisible nippers on rear wheels. Perhaps it is pointless to make a nipple on 10-hole disks. Up grated tanks Some chassis & body views I found another way to replicate mud flaps. In electric shops it is called "heat-conducting dielectric sheet". This rubber is 0.5-0.25 mm thick. It can be sprayed. Ask questions! I will be glad to answer.
  16. It is Mobihel 47085002 There is another number on a can: s-0001326257. Good luck, Francis!
  17. Hi, Gents! Have sprayed discs with black gloss Next - Alclad: polished aluminum. It turned out so-so (sorry I didn't take a picture). So I rubbed some more Ginsun powder on it. Get better. I sprayed the cab and body with Kudo clear gloss can. First - the tail gate, using the balloon. It spits. Poured out the varnish for the airbrush. It's better, but there's orange peel on top coat anyway. I've tried different metallics. An interesting effect is given by burnt metal from Mr color. Polished exterrior. Enjoy the pictures!
  18. I don't stand close to your skill, Francis, but thank you for kind words! ?
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