Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Sergey

  1. Hello, dear colleagues! Summer is hot time for land scape design, so there is so a little chance to modeling. But sometimes I got luck. I scratched the wheels from the inside and that's what I got (the right wheel). Now the track is what it should. Poked around outside the wheel disc in an attempt to get Chevrolet hubcaps Wound springs on a 3.2mm drill bit In this photo, you can see that the frame in the rear overhang curves to the left Therefore, the gas tank is cut out. After editing the frame, it will return to its place at the assembly stage. It seems to have finished with the front suspension. I made a 3-section link between the wheels. The small tubes marked with arrows serve to adjust the length of the link "in place". I started the rear suspension. I haven't trimmed the axle yet. Intermediate result I haven't touched the body yet. just removed the thickness at the bottom of the rear overhang to make it easier to bend. And sand off tail gate a little, because the body is too long/ Next time I'll show you the rear shock absorbers. Good luck to everyone!
  2. Thank you, Bob! I also thought that my MCR's El Camino is perfect, before I started to work with it. May be the deal is that I'm a perfectionist? Yes I have bought the kit directly from Motor City Resin. I'm impressed with your work! I think your 73' El Camino is looks more right, then MCR's one. The hood part of a kit I work with is not so horizontal as it should.
  3. Thank you, Guys! Finishing front suspension Fitting. Yes, not everything is symmetrical yet, but we will try. the axis of rotation of the wheel should sit deeper, inside the disc. And now rotated wheel is not in the center of the arch jet. I have already started working with the inside of the disk. I cut out the brake drum to glue it deeper.
  4. Hello, Mike! Steve is right! It is Motor City Resin Casters kit and the price is good. I have payed $100+ with deliverance couple years before. Now let's go! I guess I was lucky to found some pictures of Camino bottom. Though it's 1968 model the bottom looks mostly the same. By the way: what is the right name for car bottom to write down in search window? Here we can see lower wheel arms, which I don't have. But looking at the next photo of repaired Camino I have found the way to make new arms. I can make it from brass wire 0,8mm. But first I should fill rectangular hole in wheel wells with a piece of 2mm plastic. There is how upper arms looks Here are some billets for arms: front semi axles, wells for springs and rotary fists (if I call it right) Semi axles in place Now let's solder all this mess And there are copies of muffler and differential drilled & pierced with 3mm plastic tube and 2mm steel spike inside. Don't pay attention to the bell in front of differential. It is injection sprue to be deleted. Comments are welcome!
  5. Hello, Gents! As all of my current projects are paused for different reasons I decided to start fourth generation of El Camino! It looked like this: or like this in 74-75 So: the resin kit contains almost everything you need to build a handsome car, except for the rear axle, suspensions, wheels, cardan shaft and mufflers But there are some bugs The front bumper is slightly curved outward. That's just it's already covered with chrome and you need to unbend it more carefully. A separate hood is curved, but there is no engine. You can also glue it tightly The bench seems small relative to the width of the body. However, after digging in the network, I found such a drawing That is, the length is almost necessary, but the depth of the seat is shorter by 4mm. I don't know what to do with it yet. I'll decide along the way. The bottom, apparently copied from a similar whale. Perhaps it is 69'Olds 442, which is why it is recommended as a donor for the suspension. It can be seen that the caster himself repaired the bubble on the front stabilizer. The wind screen is vacuum formed and, as we can see, is covered in bumps from bubbles. And these are the taillights, which should be made of transparent resin, in theory. But obviously the stars didn't come together and the red dye probably killed the transparency. But there is also good news: I have already estimated the wheels from the 77 Ford. It is only necessary to sand down the caps. They stick out too much. Yes, I also figured out a donor for the rear gearbox and mufflers and I'm thinking about replacing the front levers, but more on that later!
  6. Hello, Friends! Let's continue our perversions. Re-glued the front left upper corner. It became even. It's time to make the fire wall. I have finally found a picture of the most "stripped" front wall of a cab Started from styrene: Next - putty The floor is made of "candy" plastic 1.5 mm It will be further developed (however, like everything else) Molded a plastic pad under the wipers. It's still an intermediate option. And I tried on a long-prepared etching Enjoy watching!
  7. Hello, Patrick! Beautiful work! I like the idea and the way you make it! I would make a grill by alternating plastic (Evergreen) and metal strips. Then would glued it in frame with plastic glue and take the metal strips off. Other way is to glue Evergreen strips on mesch (it is visible through vertical bars on 1:1 Lincoln), but you also need some conductor for spacing. One more thing: I can see that edge line on headlighs bacame smooth. May be it's better to use some metal strip or angle here too? Keep it going!
  8. Francis,my congrats about Lenco shifter! I know how hard can it be to put such little things together, when you limited in place! Thanks to you - I also now know what Lenco shifter is! Not completely, but I have an idea. I very like your alternator! Top notch, as alaways!
  9. Hello, Friends! There is nothing to show about plastic today, but I will show the first modest experience in 3D modeling. Front hub Many thanks to Mikhail aka Stratos75! He has drawed the cap. It was already faster with the rear hub I'm slowly getting into progress. I should learn a little more and to may print out something more serious :dance:
  10. Thank you, Anton! My slipway was ill- conceived to glue the cab level.
  11. Hello, Friends! It's time to upgrade, after 3.5 months. About the long break a little later. I have sanded trim lines in the draft version Yes, I noticed that gutters run along the upper edges of the roof... ...decided to reproduce them. Cut "skis" out of brass Something like this they could look like: And here's the reason for the break: 5 or 6 times I glued the side panels. I was never able to glue them perfectly, and even squeeze a piece of brass between the roof and the sidewall In general, "skiing" has been postponed for now. Then I'll stick it on...from Evergreen. I took care of the front axle. The donor Ford has a narrower track than the GMC. Front axle with rotary fists is about 64mm, and you need about 80. I cut off the plastic axles from the gearbox, replaced them with brass. It's harder. Drilling the differential was difficult. One half inside is a pipe, but of a smaller diameter than necessary. The rotary knuckles also had to be drilled to accept the brass pipe. First with drills, and then, at the edges, with an end mill. Yes, the reciprocal parts of the fists were also drilled and cut to accept the brakes. The right one hasn't been cut yet I tried on the wheel on the cargo hub. There was a reason to start learning 3D. To begin with, the wheel hubs are the very thing. The front of the cabin lacks rigidity. Pasted sheet plastic for now Only in the photo I saw that the front of the roof on the left is lower than on the right. I'll have to re-glue it again Enjoy watching!
  12. Interesting build! About used engine: the border between paint and dirt turned out too sharp for reel thing. I would take cotton swab with a drop of solvent and wipe off the excess on some border lines. About the flares: I would cut them to hood line OR lengthen them to the bottom of side skirts. Good luck!
  13. Magnificent work! My compliments to your wife, Conrad! But I supose, that 1/12 motorcycle will fit the scale better.
  14. Thank you, Anton! As a matter of fact the engine is too simplified (visible part of it) to get work.
  15. Hello, dear colleagues! Today is the day when there is something to show, but not so much has been done: I made a batch of castings from transparent resin. While I'm writing the post, the second batch is maturing I've made slits in the handles of the rear doors I cut the door cards in half, because the upper part is the same color as the door. Added a magnet I have sanded the tires first with the 80th grid, then with the 220th. Sawed the inner back wall to make it easier to insert the glass later. ... although it was possible not to do. The glasses slip through these frames. I decided to cut a couple of details of the engine compartment. My usual problem with the details of different colors The photo shows a drilled exhaust pipe (green arrow). For contrast, the pipe under the tow bar has not yet been drilled (red arrow) ... and here - already drilled. I really got carried away, I took off too much I decided to carry out the dry fit to the maximum Please note that the hood does not close, no matter what I already do... It is necessary to disassemble and adjust all the parts responsible for this. As a summary: The kit is replete with details. Some are even frankly superfluous. Many parts are cast with zero clearance. Barely fit into each other. There are a couple of parts with such a gap that polystyrene needs to be glued. But the plastic will have to be removed from the hood hinge/ bumper/frame. Because of all that has been said, you definitely won't have to be bored. However, the vehicle is worth it. Brutal-brutal, and everything opens up. You just need patience with fine-tuning. Enjoy watching photos and ask questions!
  16. Thank you David, Dan, Jonathan, Anton and JASON! Good evening, colleagues! A little more progress: I have made an antenna, well, and put everything under the hood as best I could Perhaps I have reached the stage where I can put this project on pause and already do the other two. A couple of general plans. I am always glad to have questions and suggestions!
  17. Hello, Peter! My mistake. Tape name is Oracal. I have mat white, mat black and mirror one.
  18. Hello, colleagues! Let's continue. Rebuild the moldings. Black chrome turned out to be friendly, but it looks worse than rubber black paint. There is a Aluminharu from MFH on top of the Black chrome. The most difficult thing was to glue it with a perfectly strite strip. Pull it a little more and tear. And here - there is a strip of Oracle tape instead of foil. I did some magic with optics. I made fog lamps with the help of large lenses (it seems from Aeromax) and a file That's how it's all assembled There are 2 round lenses left. There is no reference to them in the instructions, but I think they are intended for ceiling lights. Their thickness is two times less than that of the rest of the glazing. But the diameter is about 1 mm larger than the lampshades. I had to reduce it. Once again on the hood lifts: The hood is open In the closed position, the hinges go inside I showed off - I made an oil dipstick and a couple more little things under the hood Yes, I did make a sast food tray I think many have guessed what kind of fruit vegetable it is preparation for the next painting Yes, not everything turned out perfectly, but let's pass it The fitting of the cabin and the chassis showed that the track of the left front wheel is more than a millimeter and a half than the right one. Perhaps because of the replacement of the front springs, perhaps because of a small frame screw... or maybe Revel messed up. I tried to put the disk on the hub better. It's half a millimeter better, but not enough. In short, I removed the wheel, cut the pins from the rotary hub, replaced it with a brass rod. Yes, the tag between the wheels was too small. I had to cut off a pin from left rotary hub and paste a piece of polystyrene between them. Marked with an arrow. While impaling the hub, the paint was rubbed on the rim. Tinted with glossy black "enamel". After drying, rubbed with Guin Sun powder. For such repairs - an indispensable thing. Any questions and suggestions are welcome!
  • Create New...