Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

stewart

Members
  • Posts

    632
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by stewart

  1. Well, if you are really interested and willing to spend $40 to $50 on an engine, I have made 3D drawings of the whole thing that you can get printed from shapeways. The tolerances they advertise would be enough, based on which material you want to buy. The best detail is frosted Ultra-Detail and getting the engine printed in that is about $50 shipped.

    I made the block in one piece and you can print that (doesn't have the oil pan) or you can use the halves and oil pan and valve cover. I decided to split the engine up that way because I thought it would be easier to get better detail from it. For some reason they uploaded in a vertical orientation, but they would print laying down.

    As far as eta for completion and casting, it will be a few months. Alan told me he's almost done, and hopefully I can start getting him to make them. However, if I can finish this one in the next month, I will try to find someone who can do good castings quickly. If you have any suggestions, please let me know.

    STewart

  2. Working on it :) I posted what I have right now, minus oil pan, on shapeways.com. You can go here and get one printed for anywhere from $10, to $35. Be aware that the smallest tolerance on this is about 1.5mm, so even their best printing might not cut it.

    I am planning on making and oil pain and then cutting the block apart and making a more printer-friendly version.

    STewart

  3. Well, I don't have any pics of the 3D model yet, but I put a little more work on it today and I should have it 3D printed by Friday. I have also made progress on my own styrene prototype and I do have pictures of that.

    SAM_0824_zpsbc230ba9.jpg

    SAM_0825_zpsa1fbffda.jpg

    Using a razor saw and file to square up an engine block doesn't usually create a nice square block. I have a dremel router attachment, so I screwed it to a piece of 1/4" plexiglass and made a stand. It works very well.

    STewart

    SAM_0820_zps10e91821.jpg

    467e5aa0-81d9-4d08-892b-8dea62335312_zps

  4. I have about three different vehicles I have planned on putting one into. I hope to get this one cast in a more timely fashion than the last one. I started drawing up the main block in SolidWorks today. Only took about 5 hours to get it mostly completed. One reason is because I'm still new to the program.

    After I finish the block, I am going to try to get it 3D printed. The college I go to has a printer on hand and it is open to public use, so I can get it done for free. If it looks good, I will build a version myself, because the printers are pretty rough in texture. If I can, I might just clean up the printed version for casting.

    I'll try to get some screen shots of the block and post them up later on.

    STewart

  5. Well, I built one of these about 4 years back and sent it off to be resin cast by Alan of Ma's Resin. Unfortunately, last I heard, it was in the mail. That was 5 months ago and I haven't seen the engine or heard from him yet. So, I decided the easiest thing would be to build another. The only reason I haven't been real frustrated with the previous one is because I have been too busy with school to think about it. However, I was just talking to a classmate of mine, and it turns out that he builds models too. He got me excited about setting some time aside to build some more, and I decided that I would start with another cummins.

    I have a couple of questions, though. There are three options. I was thinking I would build a 24V 5.9L Cummins 6BT. However, I could do a 12V or the new 6.7 if those are preferred.

    Please let me know your preference.

    Any help with dimensions from anyone who has a cummins would be great. That kind of info isn't real easy to find on the internet. Hopefully I will get this thing finished in a couple months and I can then look at getting another, more reliable resin caster.

  6. Wheel and tire combo. Its going to be slicks with steel wheels and dog dish hubcaps. Still not sure about color theme. Have to think about that one a little more.

    http://s969.beta.photobucket.com/user/Hemifan22/media/Plymouth%20Prowler/SAM_0486_zps1f83c722.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

    Large engine components in place. Time for detailing.

    http://s969.beta.photobucket.com/user/Hemifan22/media/Plymouth%20Prowler/SAM_0484_zpscb74991d.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

    PS. Photobucket IMG links are not copying for some reason and the links won't copy into the photo poster.

    For now you will have to click on the link to go to the page.

    STewart

  7. I am starting the Revell Plymouth Prowler and I have a couple of options. First, I could go with moon dish wheels, a chevy small block, and log manifold as pictured

    SAM_0468.jpg

    The manifold I would do

    post-5920-0-74816400-1349321031_thumb.jp

    The other option is a modern hot rod with the kit supplied v-6 and some kind of fancy induction, as well as the wheels pictured.

    SAM_0469.jpg

    I would probably also do some kind of a body treatment like this.

    post-5920-0-27244600-1349321088_thumb.jp

    The paint color is not decided yet for either but I am eyeing my bottle of Plum Crazy purple.

    STewart

  8. I built this van awhile ago and never built the trailer. I finally got around to painting it and putting it together. Nothing real fancy. Made adapters to put a custom set of wheels on and built a tire rack and engine stand. I added pin stripes to the trailer to match the decals on the van.

    SAM_0463.jpg

    SAM_0464.jpg

    SAM_0466.jpg

    The under glass pictures for the van are here

    I added the jeep just to get an idea of how well it would haul a vehicle.

×
×
  • Create New...