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Matt Bacon

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About Matt Bacon

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24

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  • Location
    Ilkley, West Yorkshire
  • Full Name
    Matt

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  1. That's a great looking model, Steve. Did you manage to get the only one that doesn't have a broken windscreen frame, or did you have to fix that? I remember it was such a pain when I did mine! Wheels look great as well. Looks nice in pictures, though I found my two 275s, coupe and cabrio, were the hardest of all my Ferraris to photograph so they look as cool as they do in real life. You won't have that issue with the 250SWB or California Spider, believe me... best, M.
  2. A really good kit of a sleek sporty GT... Other than the hinging of the doors, which is a monstrous PITA (especially if one of the little Z shaped wire hinges pings away to be eaten by the carpet monster...) this is a very enjoyable kit to build, and certainly looks the part when it's done. best, M.
  3. Thanks, @Dann Tier, no, the chassis gives it a more positive "sit" but it ain't that heavy. The rear axle is a metal rod through the tub, and the fronts are well supported (many diecasts have plastic chassis under that metal body, after all...). Just the last few metal transfers/stickers to go on and she'll be done... Next time you see this, it'll be in Under Glass... best, M.
  4. Door interiors: Small they may be, but the painting is pretty involved! Another great example of clever Tamiya engineering: the central red panel of each door is separate, and slides into a slot under the raised handle before clipping into place in the main door card. You just have to paint it red, and you get the area behind the handle neatly painted, and a gap behind the handle as on the real thing. I reckon most manufacturers would have moulded the whole thing as one piece with the handle integral, making for much trickier painting to make it look vaguely like the original. best, M.
  5. On the home stretch now. The fit of the body, windows lights etc. is just stellar. Still haven't quite conquered the hood, but I'm now waiting until doors, windscreen and wipers are on before "fine tuning"... 😜 Now I just have to decide what number plate will suit this one! best, M.
  6. Thanks, Randy! Chassis is now complete: The weighty metal undertray gives the whole thing a high-quality heft, and I think the "soft chrome" of the wheels is spot on from Tamiya. Continuing to test fit the hood -- there's something very Batman about this shot! Looks like a very badass go-cart, doesn't it? best, M.
  7. If it's up to the standards of Meng's 1/9 Kawasaki Ninja, then it'll be a pretty impressive kit... best, M.
  8. I didn't realise there was one... my memory of building the EM one is that the back end is all held together by the "prototypical" engine and subframes around it. Hard to see how it would work in a simplified version... best, M.
  9. You could even go the whole hog, like these guys have done... re-engineering “inspired by” the DOHC v12 intended to power the Jaguar XJ13: https://buildingthelegend.co.uk/category/original-jaguar-xj13 best, M.
  10. Thanks, guys. The interior is done now. Not many parts, but crisply detailed and easy to paint. Citadel paints and some art pens... As someone in a Youtube video I watched for research purposes 😜 said: "It's not very special inside for something that costs so much money..." ...and finally: State of play for tonight... symphony in black, red and silver... best, M.
  11. Thanks, guys. I've heard some folks have problems with the fit and closing of the hood, so I thought I'd better try it sooner rather than later, while it was still fixable. The mountings on the hood just click onto the hinge bar, so it's not so risky... Looks basically OK... however... That's 3 2mmx1mm rare earth magnets let into the top of the engine, under the red induction cover. I'll put some tin can steel under the rear of the hood, which should be pulled down to snug it into place. Just trying out some of the interior parts. I'm pleased I chose the more dramatic black and red colour scheme. It's the one I'd have in a real one, too... best, M.
  12. 99% Isopropyl alcohol will take it off. If it’s recently cured, a bath overnight will lift it off in sheets. If it’s older it might take a few days. best, M.
  13. Thanks, guys... @CabDriver yep, regular lacquer thinner will work. I use Zero Paints Airbrush Cleaner which is much cheaper than the thinner they package with the 2K components. A good mask is essential and fume extraction if you’re not in the open air, but the finish is hard to beat even as it comes straight from the airbrush... best, M.
  14. This has been lurking in the stash for quite some time... I'm not sure what brought it to the top, but a nice straightforward Tamiya build is just what the doctor ordered! Thanks to the way the real car is engineered, there's no main bodyshell... the components and panels hang off the chassis and tub. Basecoated with Zero Paints Mercedes SLR-specific Palladium Silver. I quite like the matt look, but... The chassis is somewhat simplified, but in terms of what you can actually see when it's built, it does the job, IMHO. Interior trim under way -- I wanted one of the more colourful options, rather than plain black. Tamiya NATO Black for the majority, so details painted in semi- or gloss black will actually be visible. Two piece engine washed to pop out the detail. Better not forget the decals on the brake callipers! Zero Diamond 2K clear coat on. This is straight out of the airbrush... I haven't sanded the primer, the base coat or the clearcoat Time to progress the interior... best, M.
  15. RIP Eddie... though someone who can knock out “Jump” as a synth pop hit because he’d like to try something new should be celebrated as more than “just” a metal guitar hero... best, M.
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