That was what I was wondering above... Bill... are you saying that somehow the EPA noticed big wheels and air-jack suspensions and as a result decided to legislate against street cars modified into dedicated racing cars ? Surely cars that fall over in corners on regular roads are more the NTSB's problem? Whatever started it, the EPA proposal is going to affect a bunch of people who like to prep race cars, isn't it? That can't be good... I would have thought that the SCCA would have had at least as much to say about this than SEMA, but what do I know? If it were happening over here, there'd be a number of one-make series that would be in big trouble. Today, anyone who wants to can buy a Ginetta G40R (which is a road car, albeit one that's mostly intended for "run what you brung" track days), and upgrade it into a track only weapon, for example. At the margins there are quite a few examples of only-just-road-legal cars that you can mod in your garage into dedicated track only specials. And beyond that, there are a bunch of people who will take a more or less standard saloon and turn it into a rally stage or touring car contender. So if you buy one of these: http://www.caranddriver.com/news/lotus-evora-cup-race-car-car-news that has only ever been a pure racing car, you're OK. But if you buy a fast-road Evora and upgrade it in your own garage to the same spec, the EPA wants to ban it? What does the EPA expect people building race cars to start with? A blank sheet of paper, some steel tubes, and a set of welding gear? And anyway, surely it's the engines and their state of tune that are the issue in terms of emissions, not the car that they are in? I doubt ANYONE is going to build a racing engine completely from scratch... bestest, M.
Err... which part of that press release says anything about wheels? My reading is that the EPA is trying to stop people modding the engines of their street cars, which have to meet emissions regulations, to create a "race-car" instead, which will be exempt from the Clean Air Act, and then driving it around daily on the roads as well as occasionally racing. You may well think that's a step too far, but it is legitimately in the EPA's area of activity. It's not the people who sell big wheels and daft suspensions who need to worry... it's an entire industry dedicated to after market tuning, remapping, blowing etc etc. I don't know whether a 900+ BHP Nissan GT-R meets current emissions regs, but I kinda doubt it... bestest, M.
http://www.eaglegb.com/pages/aluminium-47-litre-engine#.VrOhFsc5yi8 bestest, M. [who wishes we hadn't lost the option to "preview" a post to see whether the hit-or-miss picture embedding function is playing nice this time or not...]
I t pops up on eBay in the old box pretty regularly... but it's also been reissued by Heller now: http://www.heller.fr/fr/maquettes/maquettes-voitures-classique/477-172-hispano-suiza-k6--3279510807042.html ...so you should be able to find it easily. bestest, M.
Set the cold tap running. Hold the end of the screen just above the spout of a boiling kettle for a few seconds (by holding the other end), take it out of the steam, switch grip to hold it firmly near the hot end, where the screen is the right shape, and then gently push the "point" of the window outwards. It should just flex out. If it resists, put it back in the steam for a few more seconds. When you've bent it so the point is that 1/16th inch wider, keep hold and stick the whole lot in the running cold water to set it. Do it carefully. More sophisticated techniques include clamping it firmly with a Wolf grip at the point where the windscreen's OK and holding it in the steam (that gives a really solid "fix" to the portion you don't want to bend), or using a tile with a smooth flat surface, dipping the rogue end of the windscreen in just off-the-boil water for 10-20 seconds, pressing the main screen onto the tile and "rolling" the point outwards. Basically, you want to make sure that the main bulk of the screen isn't moving anywhere, and the "unbending" of the softened plastic starts exactly where you want it, without flexing the middle of the screen backwards. I had to do exactly the same to the rear U-shaped window in my Dino 246. You can repeat the process until you get it unwound exactly as far as you need... bestest, M.
Great job, Bruce. It's certainly a sturdy looking beast, isn't it? Like a "cut'n'shut" with the front end of a Rolls-Royce and the back end of a Mercedes 500K... Are those front wings/fenders well-located, or are they like the ones on the Delahaye, which were a nightmare to fix in place? I do like this series of Heller kits, too... I'd like the Talbot Lago Record and Hispano-Suiza, myself. All the best, Matt
Thanks, guys! I don't think this one ever really existed. The kit apart from the body is the same as the Garlits Wynns Jammer and Hemi-sphere kits, and can obviously used with various body styles. To me, this body shape looks a little like the Pink Panther car in terms of styling... bestest, M.
Well, it seems that you don't see many of these built... now I know why!
...and I think the "Mini-Me" box is a great idea:
This one fought me all the way to the end. The biggest problem is that the chassis frame is weak, badly fitting and flexible, and the majority of things that mount onto it have very small, vague, attachment points. Still, it was a present from my "Secret Santa" on another forum, intended to take me out of my comfort zone. Which it did. Now, where did I leave that Cobra 427 S/C...? bestest, M
Concept looks great, Bill... though it'll be a real labour of love to rework that plastic/balsa/putty hybrid. But I guess that's "sympathetic restoration" rather than a "replica" ;-P Was your name Saoutchik in a previous life?
Some of the best looking automobiles ever created, IMHO... you're in great company! bestest, M.
Sure does... On the cabrios, it's easy enough to leave off the firewall until you've assembled the upper and lower body halves and dealt with the seam, and then slide the interior in from the front, followed by the firewall, adding the seats, dashboard etc from the top. Obviously, that's not an option with the coupe. I've seen people assemble the body, reinforce and finish the seams, cut out the floor pan from behind the rocker panels to build the inside, then flex the painted body (hence the reinforcement) to pop the glass, floor and interior back in, just like any regular kit. I might do that, but I also can't really see the issue with just assembling the interior and body normally and masking the windows with BMF or frisket film... Still I have several kits, including a parts car or two, to practice on! bestest, M.
OK, we need to be clear here: The Revell 1/25 XK-E convertible is basically fine. A little bit hard to get together so that the bonnet closes, and the soft-top cover is way too tall, but there's plenty of detail around the engine. The Aurora then Monogram 1/24 Coupe is a bit of a caricature of the real thing, in terms of body shape. The waistline is too curved, the "hips" are exaggerated, the nose curves down too much, the "mouth" is too "pursed", the bonnet bulge is too big and the wrong shape, the roofline is too high and squished front to back, and the headlights are too upright. This coupe kit was never, as far as I know, released as a Revell kit. The Monogram, then Revell 1/8th Coupe is the best and most accurately shaped E-type kit out there. There still a lot of detail work that it will benefit from hugely, but what you get in the box is a great starting point. bestest, M.