Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Matt Bacon

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Matt Bacon

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ilkley, West Yorkshire
  • Full Name

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. There’s a 1/24 Heller Hispano Suiza K6 which would give you the chassis, engine and front end at least. Then I think the best bet would be to look at some of the Monogram or Italeri classics and see what comes closest to the shape of the rear end, and find a glue bomb to steal the rest of the cabrio body from... best, M.
  2. ...of course, it would be very wrong for an enterprising caster just to copy the Esci/Italeri bonnet in resin... ;-P best, M.
  3. Let’s add a “dished” bonnet/hood to the list of things for the enterprising aftermarket provider to make! A proper expedition roof rack would be a winner as well, and maybe the sun visor “peak” for the windscreen.... best, M.
  4. I couldn't figure out from the sprues whether this kit has the centre facing fold up seats along each side of the load bay... I can't see any sign of fixing points on the raised areas at the back of the floor pan part, but they might mount only onto the walls if folded up. It seems that Series Landy owners have been known to mount the spare on the back of the transverse bulkhead behind the seats, trading a reduction in load space inside for not overstressing the rear door hinges or making the bonnet heavy to lift, and painful indeed if it drops on your head with a 75lb wheel on the top... best, M.
  5. I've been poring over the sprue shots for some time (saddo that I am), and I can't see anything that looks like the "pie dish" mounting plate (17 in Luc's helpful pic above). If it's not there, that and the rear door mount should be an easy one for an enterprising resin or 3D printed aftermarket detail parts maker to come up with... best, M.
  6. Round pattern.... it's a typical Iwata airbrush adapted to use a pistol grip and trigger action. The TRN-1 is able to do fine detail work and spray at low pressures. Personally I'd rather do that with a traditional-style airbrush held like a pen or paintbrush, but YMMV. My big breakthrough using an airbrush came when I was shown that it it's a brush that uses air, not a spraygun. If you just want to lay down even coats over a large area, base colours or clear coats, then save yourself a lot of money and get one of these: https://hlj.com/procon-boy-single-action-0-4mm-gnzps-268 It's a great little airbrush and should cost around $50... best, M.
  7. Or you could get a Jada diecast for <$30 and see how easy it is to “fine tune” into a convincing model... best, M.
  8. I’ve seen that photo. But like I say, I’ve never seen one like that in the real world on (or off) the road in the UK in the last 40 years. Ever. It’s certainly not a “common” or “typical” arrangement. And Revell wouldn’t be the first model company to bring to market a kit of what turns out to be a unique or highly unusual prototype or a well-intentioned but inaccurate “restoration.” I’m not disputing that there’s a Land Rover that looks like that, just saying that when I build mine, the spare’s going to be in one of the places that every Landy I’ve ever seen has got it fitted... beat, M.
  9. I don't think I've ever seen one carrying the spare on the front slope of the roof, as that artwork suggests: bonnet occasionally, and back door regularly, but not on the roof (without an expedition rack, anyway). Especially since that picture seems to show the double skin "hot climate" roof, which our imported from Spain station wagon had. IIRC it was a very lightweight sheet of aluminium supported on fairly thin pillars... not something you'd want to bolt a wheel and tyre onto... best, M.
  10. I was idly contemplating this, to make the cream 88" station wagon we had when I was a teenager. I think the cut n shut needs to be done in several sections: 1) The roof, where you need to bring the very back section to a position immediately behind the oval rooflights, so there's more or less the same solid area in front of and behind them 2) The upper side panels, where you need the rectangular rearmost window section moved forward to replace the rear doors. 3) The lower side panels, where you need to lose the rear doors and shorten the section behind the rear arch, with a steeper slope at the lower edge 4)The chassis, where you need to reduce the wheelbase to 88" instead of 109" wheelbase (22mm). Fortunately there are various brochures online showing "naked" SWB and LWB chassis and drivetrain, so it should be easy enough to figure out where it needs to come from... Revel kit shouldn't be too expensive, though, so I'm happy to experiment on one! best, M.
  11. Never had any issues at all with the paint. I usually use it over Tamiya Fine Surface primer in grey, white or pink, but I have also used it over Halfords Plastic Primer with no troubles with either... best, M.
  12. Looks great.... where was it on show? best, M.
  13. Dusty blue, dusty grey-green, dark bronze green, or cream are all good Series Land Rover colours (the iconic one is the sage-y dusty grey green, which is the same as RAF Interior Green, because it was using up surplus stocks. Available from testors or Mission Models as well as in many other paint ranges). The hood is a very standard place for a spare wheel fitting, as is the centre of the rear door. Or both, if you're planning a long off road expedition... best, M.
  14. Wow... thanks, Gerry: that's really kind of you. Hope the move goes smoothly for you! All the best, M.
  • Create New...