[[Template core/front/global/utilitiesMenu does not exist. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

Matt Bacon

Members
  • Content count

    1,556
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Matt Bacon

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/24

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ilkley, West Yorkshire
  • Full Name
    Matt
  1. Revell BMW 507

    Great start, and recovery from the paint debacle! I think it’s a great kit. I found that the bonnet/hood doesn’t close very well over the engine by itself, so on mine I stuck a piece of steel can onto the bonnet, and put a small but powerful magnet (bought off eBay) into, I think, the battery or some other box at the top of the firewall in front of the windscreen. It pulls the bonnet down nicely, but you can still open it if you want... best, M
  2. Porsche 356B Coupe, Revell, 1/16

    Thanks very much, all... I think we're on the home straight now: If there's one key piece of advice I'd want you to take away from this model if you're building the same kit, this is it: getting the interior tub in using the snap fittings is a complete s*d. First, don't bother putting in the windscreen when they tell you to in the instructions; it will fall out repeatedly as you flex the body to get the interior in. Secondly, cut off the front mounting sockets from the tub and just use the back pair. Finally, what you are trying to do is first, get the top of the dash into the windscreen aperture; secondly, get the doors into the spaces in the side wall of the tub, and thirdly make sure the rear shelf in the tub is inside the back window. With the body and tub upside-down, I'd bring the tub in from the front (into the tapering body), backwards and angled into and downwards towards the back, flexing the body sides outwards to get the doors in place and making sure the rear end sits inside the window, then push the front into the body, with a small screwdriver or similar to ease the top of the dash into the window space (it should be be a millimeter or so above the body edge, and the gap is hidden by the windscreen frame). Then, wiggle it forwards a bit to get the rear mountings into the right place.The tub will snick into place quite firmly without the socket/pillar arrangement coming into play, and the chassis/floor will keep it there. Finally, after a quick clean of the insides of all the windows in case bits of paint have been knocked off during the (quite aggressive) snapping process, you can put the front window in. best, M.
  3. Italdesign Nazca M12

    I just dug out my kit, a Revell Germany issue. The instructions still show the BMW grille. There look to have been two tiny modifications to the parts: 98, the grille surface in black, has a couple of extra fins in the middle, and the main front body shell has had a piece removed in the centre of the aperture. You can see exactly where it was on the mould. All that's needed to build it as intended is a slim, slightly Y-shaped plastic rod pillar in the middle of the hole, and cutting away the raised detail on the middle of part 98. A two minute job... The windows on mine are tinted pretty dark, so it'll be time for some window tint film, I think for the gold... best, M.
  4. Pete Shelley, dead at 63

    And, as we heard on the main BBC News this evening (which goes to show which generation is running the BBC News these days...) they also more or less invented "Indy" records and made Manchester the music powerhouse it's been for the last 40 years: everyone from Joy Division to Oasis owes them a debt... RIP, Pete, from me and everyone else who has ever fallen in love with some they shouldn't have fallen in love with... best, M.
  5. Italdesign Nazca M12

    That looks great, Dominik... very futuristic, still! I guess it's about the same vintage as the Revell Bugatti EB110, which I thought was a tough build but a pretty good kit! I've got one in the stash, though when I build mine it'll be with the BMW "kidney" grille, which apparently had to come off the kit and the real thing at the last minute... Nice to see one built up! All the best, M.
  6. Heller Gordini

    ...though at €110 for the full set of "ameliorations", I think I might just buy the decal sheet, live with the vinyl seats, and either not fit or scratch build a "roll cage" (it's not exactly a complex shape to bend out of some wire or plastic rod)... best, M.
  7. Porsche 356B Coupe, Revell, 1/16

    Dashboard is done now. The instruments are chromed discs that pop into place, with decals over the top, and finished with Citadel 'ardcoat varnish: Clearly there's a version on the way with some kind of console under the dash. There's no sign of it in the regular cabrios I can find online, but it looks like the Dutch Rijkspolizei had a radio down there, which probably also explains why the glovebox door is a separate part. So, that's the interior tub completed. The doors are built around the framing in the bodyshell, so I hope popping the interior in will be straightforward! best, M.
  8. Hooper & Co Diorama

    They must be VERY good engine rebuilders if they can turn a flathead into a boxer... ;-`p best, M.
  9. Hooper & Co Diorama

    I choose to believe that the crate is labelled "Machine Tool Parts", but in fact contains contraband surplus weaponry being smuggled to an obscure South American republic. Invisible in the shadows over the road is a ginger-quiffed, button-nosed boy reporter in plus fours and his small white dog, observing proceedings and taking careful notes... ;-P best, M.
  10. Heller Gordini

    I wonder whether the roll cage is made that way to make sure it doesn't break when you put the chassis inside the body with some flexing... EDIT: looking here https://blog.hobbydb.com/2016/05/13/renault-r8-gordini/, it seems that the original kit didn't have a roll cage. I guess the tyre "runner" was the smallest and cheapest tool to modify to provide the roll cage, which is clearly a feature of the AMT issued version as well as the new Heller box... There are various glues like EvoStick Serious Glue or Zap "Goo" which will stick vinyl to polystyrene with a reasonably tough join. best, M.
  11. AMT Sunbeam Tiger

    Looks fantastic... great job! best, M.
  12. Porsche 356B Coupe, Revell, 1/16

    Thanks, all... got the interior mostly together now: Nice little Porsche decal for the gear shift... the decals in this kit are excellent, actually, even though the stickers are probably more what they expect you to use. One important point, which I should have guessed: you need to make sure that the all the tabs and slots for the snap fit parts are paint free. The engineering is very precise, and unforgiving.. Bonnet fits very well, opens and closes smoothly, and has pretty tight shut-lines! best, M.
  13. Porsche 356B Coupe, Revell, 1/16

    OK, I think I'm calling the engine done: let's open the hood... I love the decal for the fan belt... I don't think any amount of detail painting and stickers is going to make this look much like the original... best, M.
  14. Porsche 356B Coupe, Revell, 1/16

    A new thing to try out: Tamiya TS-101. It's specifically designed to cover and seal coloured plastic. It's slightly odd, and definitely different from the regular white primer. It cures to a shiny and very tough coat. Which provides a good base for the Gloss Aluminium... Engine parts taking shape: oil filter/reservoir, oil filler, distributor and coil. Turned in a drill chuck to shape the sprue as needed. Interior parts... mostly painted with Citadel reds and washes, and some drybrushing. best, M.
  15. In Box: Revell 1:16 Porsche 356B Coupe 07679

    I hope that Revell will get the Convertible instructions online soon, and we'll get a clearer idea of how the bits you do get as "unused" in the coupe are supposed to be used in the detailed kit. There seem to be almost enough hinge parts included to get the doors to open (after cutting out the big beam that the door skins are mounted on in the coupe), but I can't figure out quite how they should work. The coupe body shell has structure moulded at the front edge of the door aperture that just isn't needed with the fixed door option, so I think there's a lot of common ground between coupe and cabrio bodies as well... You could clearly build a full detail coupe by cross-kitting a coupe and cabrio. It's just a shame that you can get so close to it with just one kit, but not quite all the way... I guess the door is most of the way open for Revell to release a full-detail coupe in a year's time, if these sell well... best, M.