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Matt Bacon

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    Ilkley, West Yorkshire
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    Matt

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MCM Ohana

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  1. On the original issue, I think the paint is laid on too thick. If it’s wet on the model, it pulls back from raised bits and the edges of shut lines. Lots of very light coats until the coverage is even works for me with any Tamiya paint. If you need it, Novus polish in the “fine scratch” flavour works wonders. That TS-11 was originally for the Tamiya 1/12 240ZG, and according to Octane, that colour was _meant_ to be “Marron” or Chestnut, so it’s a red-brown, not a purpley-red… Best, M.
  2. The knowledgeable and observant will point out that the livery is not strictly correct. I wanted to do "Mabel", as she appeared at Sebring in 1968 for aesthetic reasons -- I have many race cars wearing wire wheels, and none with Minilites, and the dayglo orange front end goes better with dark BRG than yellow or smaller red patches. But the whole thing turned into a tribute to Paddy Hopkirk, who died after a long and fulfilling life just before Christmas, and his name only appeared on the car with hsi co-driver at the '69 race. So I've mix and matched the decals to combine the look I wanted with Paddy's driver ID, and hang the consequences! It's been a challenge, but also a blast, and this is one REALLY well designed, manufactured, and instructed transkit. best, M.
  3. Thanks, Pierre. I used “Formula 560 Canopy Glue” from Pacer (or Zap). Brilliant stuff… clear, strong, quick-drying and softens in water if you mess up. I use it for all my clear parts, and a lot more besides. Best, M.
  4. Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver for the unpainted areas, and TS-17 Gloss Aluminium for the painted areas of the wing. As Bill says, chances are the paint probably got dinged up and worn, but this is what a freshly built one looks like: https://www.key.aero/forum/historic-aviation/141825-p51-mustang-wings-painted-or-not Personally, I think a lot of models are over-weathered. Yes, the aircraft were worked hard, but the average life of a wartime aircraft was measured in months not years, and hundreds of hours in the air, not tens of thousands. Plus a beat-up airplane is slower than one that's kept clean and smooth, and a plane that looks like that might make a pilot wonder how well the important bits under the skin are being looked after as well... (Cue lots of pictures of famously beat-up looking airplanes...) best, M.
  5. The headlightlight cowls are on. They are well defined, and the combination of an Optivisor, very sharp nail scissors and an angled light made cutting and trimming them relatively straightforward. They overlap the bodywork substantially, as they do on the original. I'm mulling over how to make the riveted panels that actually hold them on. Embossed aluminum tape, maybe. The bonnet strap is more wine bottle foil and the etched hardware from the transkit. I threaded the two straps with the buckle still attached to the fret -- it made it a lot easier to hang two U-shaped loops over the central bar. Flattening it out held everything in place and let me cut the buckle free. Then I adjusted the top and bottom lengths to get the fittings in the right place before folding the etch over each end. Back door hardware and reflectors attached. The effectiveness of the red interior at "lifting" the whole thing is clear, and what I was hoping for. Identification light, red for Sebring '68 in position. Now the tape is off, most of the handling will be using cotton gloves. ...as you can see from the dust! Time for the rest of the decals, and then the final hardware details which again sit on top or very close to some of the markings... best, M.
  6. I have one of these for “big jobs”: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Mr-Procon-Boy-SQ-PS-268-Airbrush.html It’s more of a small scale spray gun than a sophisticated air “brush”, but it’s brilliant for coverage, and the single action is easy to adjust in the fly if you suddenly decide to draw lines. best, Matt
  7. Auto Kits were independent, and then were bought by South East Finecast http://www.sefinecast.co.uk/Car Kits/1 24 Scale Autokits Page 1.htm They are not quite as nice as the kits originated by SE Finecast, but pretty good. I would recommend investing in a couple of varieties (fast and not so fast) of two part epoxy resin, and three flavours of superglue: gel, gap-filling and thin. You'll also need a couple of decent fine files. The white metal cleans up nicely, but you will need to test fit and adjust some of the pieces before committing to glue. The epoxy provides real strength, and having fast and slower curing varieties will give you a bit of "wiggle room" and time to get everything exactly square before it cures. To see what you're getting into, check out my Finecast Rolls Royce Silver Ghost build thread here: Happy to answer questions you may have... best, M.
  8. Thanks… I know most are painted metal, but this one is modelled on a specific car featured in Octane, which has a leather panel there… it’s also where the striping detail on the hood came from. Nothing like having big colour pics of a 1:1 to work from. best, M.
  9. On to the details now. Light clusters are fixed, and I have to do the rear race roundel because various bits of furniture fit over it... The light cowls are the last bit that worries me. Once they are done, we're on the home straight. I think whoever has done the decals has done a really good job... best, M.
  10. Lynx, Westlake and Proteus all made "recreations", which were generally very convincing... though now Jaguar is getting heavy on recreations and replicas, I guess they are unlikely to make any more. best, M.
  11. It's a very nice kit. This is OOB apart from some lead foil for the tonneau cover and side screens from acetate instead of the heavy kit parts. Fit of the windscreen is challenging, but there's plenty of detail, and a very nice engine. This is 12 of the 16 "real" ones at Pebble Beach. Jaguar has made some "continuation" cars, using the Chassis numbers of the ones destroyed in the Brown's Lane fire: https://www.jaguar.co.uk/about-jaguar/jaguar-classic/authentic-cars/classic-continuations/index.html best, M.
  12. Thanks, gentlemen. The grille is now complete.... a very nice piece of photo etch. The engraved badge takes paint well. I used Tamiya lacquer paint cleaned off with a small cotton swab moistened with thinner, and finished with some Citadel 'ardcoat. best, M.
  13. I've used the "Hold n Fold" for quite a lot of Folding over the years, but here it's coming into its own for Holding... The grille is a stack of five layers of PE... grille, two frames, and two layers of badge. The grille and frames stack like a deck of cards, and the HoldnFold kept them in place while I applied thin superglue to the edges, which capillar-ied into place nicely, bonding them permanently in seconds. Flip it around and do the other end, and then thicker 30s-cure superglue let me position the badges precisely before it went off. Very neat, though I say so myself. best, M.
  14. Time to get on with the details, now... Chris provides replacement main headlights, and four racing lights (only two are needed for MBL). The main headlights are shaped so they fit better under the Perspex cowls than the kit versions, but use the kit lens. He also provides lenses for the racing lights cast in resin. The chrome is AK branded Alclad 3, which works really well if you apply it in really light mist coats over Tamiya Gloss Black. This is 7 coats... You can see the transkit lens at the bottom of this picture... it's quite "cloudy." Fortunately, a rummage through the stash yielded some crystal clear polystyrene lenses for racing lights from a Mini rally kit which fit perfectly. (The Mini has an option for covers for the lights as well...). And here they are in place. Time to start working on the photo-etch grille, I think. Definitely got a purposeful stance, I reckon... best, M.
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