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Matt Bacon

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About Matt Bacon

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24

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    Ilkley, West Yorkshire
  • Full Name
    Matt

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  1. Got this one under way... I thought I'd post this because you can clearly see the difference between the Zero basecoat matt, and how the colour changes and gets richer and deeper when you hit it with clearcoat. I've put a light coat of clear where the "go-faster stripe" decals need to go on... And this is what you get with the clearcoat on. The panel/shut lines are emphasised with the new Citadel "Contast Colours" Leviadon Blue Engine/transmission is under construction... best, M.
  2. Looks like Italeri are re-releasing the Protar Mercedes W196 this year, which is good news if classic Formula 1 cars are your thing — it’s been quite hard to find lately. They’re also re-popping the Esci Mercedes 500 SLC in street and rally form. But the BIG news is a new addition to their 1/12th collection: a Lancia Delta Integrale, in Martini livery, of course... I’m very tempted! best, M.
  3. We should all be so lucky as to have friends like this in our lives: best, M.
  4. It is. You’d certainly know about it if it landed on you while you were inside... ISTR the wheel and tyre weighs around 75 lbs... which is why you don’t want it above the cab like the prototype of the Revell kit, which is unusual verging on the unique. Back door mount is common, but needs a frame or it will put a lot of stress on the door hinges. Pickups often have it mounted on the bulkhead behind the front seats, but obviously that eats into rear compartment space. Some military types carry spares high on one or both sides on a frame behind the front doors. Bonnet is one of the lesser of all the potential evils, but it pays to take the spare off before any serious work under the hood... best, M.
  5. It might sound like an odd question, but how do the Greenlight 1/64s compare in size to Hot Wheels and Matchbox? My son collects them, and has a few Japanese (Kyosho) "1/64" cars among them, and they look noticeably smaller. Mind you, the bburago Ferrari 1/64s are noticeably bigger than HW, so you win some, you lose some. At least Siku puts the actual scale on the underneath of each car (Mostly 1/55-1/62)... (It was only when I saw my first Veyron in real life that I realised how small it was. It's the same size as Siku's Bentley Continental, which it really isn't...) best, M.
  6. This one put up a lot more of a fight than the Rover SD1 -- in particular the seams between upper body and chassis, and the front and rear valance panels were hard to get right, and hard to eliminate. And this one is even smaller than the SD1: ...with the Fujimi 1/24 for comparison. The Heller kit comes with the headlights popped up, so since I dislike that "frog-eye" look, I closed them with plastic card. No need to convert this one to RHD. I still can't quite decide if I like the shape of the 928... but I'd have one in a heartbeat if I found an affordable, mechanically sound daily driver. best, M.
  7. Simple to build but exquisitely detailed in parts, with fit that's great in some places, not so good in others... It's really not very big... Got quite a little stack more of these little Hellers as light relief between larger scale builds... best, M.
  8. That looks great -- beautiful finish and detailing, and those wheels really fill the arches (I have the version of the kit with the Brabus wheels). My only observation is that we have a couple of SL63s around here, and they look really low, long and wide on the street. I don't know what it is... I'm sure the Aoshima kit is dimensionally correct, but it looks "chunkier" somehow in the pics than the real thing... best, M.
  9. It looks great! Good job... as an aside, I’ve never had any issues with Zero over Tamiya primer. If you spray light coats, the colour builds up. Zero basecoats aren’t meant to be sprayed heavily, still less in wet coats. For a regular colour, I do probably 3 coats, with 10 minutes between; for multilayer, I do a couple of coats of each one. One thing I have learned is to keep all the coloured parts (eg doors, bonnet and body shell) together while spraying them, so they all end up with the same density of each layer. In the ones where you have a coloured glaze over a metallic base coat, the final appearance is critically dependent on getting the same depth of colour on the glaze everywhere... best, M.
  10. I can see at least one feature that probably brought out the lawyers, as well... best, M.
  11. There have been a couple of occasions recently when I’ve needed to spot apply some Tamiya TS paint because there was no easy way to fill and fix specific seams before final assembly. Both times I was using a metallic colour: light blue and light gunmetal. In both cases, the airbrushed colour came up a lot lighter and brighter than the areas that had been sprayed using the can. In the case of the “gunmetal”, I’m going to have to mask the windows and do the whole body again, because the difference is stark... Anyone else had this happen? I think it’s to do with the much more even distribution of the metal flakes in the airbrushed coat. Any ideas how to get the same colour, or should I just resign myself to using decanted paint or the new LP pots with metallic colours? best, M.
  12. Darn it! I wonder how my two built and seven (four street in two scales and three race, all different generations) in the stash got there, then. I must have been given them by a friend or picked them up with packets of cereal... 😜 Best, M.
  13. I wouldn’t get too scared just yet... that’s just a picture Revell has of an E-type. There’s no evidence it’s the box art of a new kit, still less that the model inside the box when it comes is going to look like that. I wish Revell would use the 3D CAD models Of new releases like Airfix does, but they haven’t done that except when promoting the Land Rover on their blog... best, M.
  14. Hi, all... apologies for the delay in putting up the results... I was away after New Year and back to work with a bang, so things have been a little hectic lately! Anyway: '64-'66 Mustang Aston Martin Ulster TVR T350C Facel Vega II Jaguar E-type V12 Ford Model T Chrysler Series 70 VW Type 34 Karmann Ghia Buick Roadmaster Jensen GT Jowett Jupiter Aston Martin DB5 I had three entries, from @maltsr, @Richard Bartrop and @carsntrucks4you, all of which were very near perfect.... very well done, gentlemen! After a random draw by my lady wife (who is also a priest, so you can trust her...), @carsntrucks4you is the lucky recipient of the prize! A copy of the Winter 2019 issue of The Road Rat magazine will be wending its way to him as soon as I get a mailing address... https://theroadrat.com/products/issue-004 Thanks for participating... and to those who looked but didn't enter... Happy New Year! All the best, M.
  15. The Quick Build’s are unique to Airfix, and are a cross between Lego (held together by studs the same size and spacing as Lego) and a snap kit (external panels and parts in a realistic shape). In terms of building, much like regular “Creator” Lego (as opposed to Technic Lego). They look more realistic than the Lego Speed Machines which are the closest competitor. Revell is going for an even younger market with their Junior Kit range: https://www.revell.de/en/products/junior-kit/city-life/ In ten years or so we’ll see how many Junior Kit or Quick Build kids have caught the modelling bug... best, M.
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