http://www.eaglegb.com/pages/aluminium-47-litre-engine#.VrOhFsc5yi8 bestest, M. [who wishes we hadn't lost the option to "preview" a post to see whether the hit-or-miss picture embedding function is playing nice this time or not...]
I t pops up on eBay in the old box pretty regularly... but it's also been reissued by Heller now: http://www.heller.fr/fr/maquettes/maquettes-voitures-classique/477-172-hispano-suiza-k6--3279510807042.html ...so you should be able to find it easily. bestest, M.
Set the cold tap running. Hold the end of the screen just above the spout of a boiling kettle for a few seconds (by holding the other end), take it out of the steam, switch grip to hold it firmly near the hot end, where the screen is the right shape, and then gently push the "point" of the window outwards. It should just flex out. If it resists, put it back in the steam for a few more seconds. When you've bent it so the point is that 1/16th inch wider, keep hold and stick the whole lot in the running cold water to set it. Do it carefully. More sophisticated techniques include clamping it firmly with a Wolf grip at the point where the windscreen's OK and holding it in the steam (that gives a really solid "fix" to the portion you don't want to bend), or using a tile with a smooth flat surface, dipping the rogue end of the windscreen in just off-the-boil water for 10-20 seconds, pressing the main screen onto the tile and "rolling" the point outwards. Basically, you want to make sure that the main bulk of the screen isn't moving anywhere, and the "unbending" of the softened plastic starts exactly where you want it, without flexing the middle of the screen backwards. I had to do exactly the same to the rear U-shaped window in my Dino 246. You can repeat the process until you get it unwound exactly as far as you need... bestest, M.
Great job, Bruce. It's certainly a sturdy looking beast, isn't it? Like a "cut'n'shut" with the front end of a Rolls-Royce and the back end of a Mercedes 500K... Are those front wings/fenders well-located, or are they like the ones on the Delahaye, which were a nightmare to fix in place? I do like this series of Heller kits, too... I'd like the Talbot Lago Record and Hispano-Suiza, myself. All the best, Matt
Thanks, guys! I don't think this one ever really existed. The kit apart from the body is the same as the Garlits Wynns Jammer and Hemi-sphere kits, and can obviously used with various body styles. To me, this body shape looks a little like the Pink Panther car in terms of styling... bestest, M.
Well, it seems that you don't see many of these built... now I know why!
...and I think the "Mini-Me" box is a great idea:
This one fought me all the way to the end. The biggest problem is that the chassis frame is weak, badly fitting and flexible, and the majority of things that mount onto it have very small, vague, attachment points. Still, it was a present from my "Secret Santa" on another forum, intended to take me out of my comfort zone. Which it did. Now, where did I leave that Cobra 427 S/C...? bestest, M
Concept looks great, Bill... though it'll be a real labour of love to rework that plastic/balsa/putty hybrid. But I guess that's "sympathetic restoration" rather than a "replica" ;-P Was your name Saoutchik in a previous life?
Some of the best looking automobiles ever created, IMHO... you're in great company! bestest, M.
Sure does... On the cabrios, it's easy enough to leave off the firewall until you've assembled the upper and lower body halves and dealt with the seam, and then slide the interior in from the front, followed by the firewall, adding the seats, dashboard etc from the top. Obviously, that's not an option with the coupe. I've seen people assemble the body, reinforce and finish the seams, cut out the floor pan from behind the rocker panels to build the inside, then flex the painted body (hence the reinforcement) to pop the glass, floor and interior back in, just like any regular kit. I might do that, but I also can't really see the issue with just assembling the interior and body normally and masking the windows with BMF or frisket film... Still I have several kits, including a parts car or two, to practice on! bestest, M.
OK, we need to be clear here: The Revell 1/25 XK-E convertible is basically fine. A little bit hard to get together so that the bonnet closes, and the soft-top cover is way too tall, but there's plenty of detail around the engine. The Aurora then Monogram 1/24 Coupe is a bit of a caricature of the real thing, in terms of body shape. The waistline is too curved, the "hips" are exaggerated, the nose curves down too much, the "mouth" is too "pursed", the bonnet bulge is too big and the wrong shape, the roofline is too high and squished front to back, and the headlights are too upright. This coupe kit was never, as far as I know, released as a Revell kit. The Monogram, then Revell 1/8th Coupe is the best and most accurately shaped E-type kit out there. There still a lot of detail work that it will benefit from hugely, but what you get in the box is a great starting point. bestest, M.
It's the best 1/24 E-Type coupe that there is. But since the competition is the dreadful Monogram version (ex-Aurora) there isn't a lot of choice... It's typical Heller: reasonably well detailed, slightly hard to get to fit together. The parts breakdown is pretty much exactly the same as the Revell 1/25 XK-E, so although it will benefit from detailing, there's a fair amount to work with already. The accuracy is pretty good. There's been much discussion of the shape in another thread. My view, after comparing it with accurate 1/24 plans, is the the shape of the "glass-house" is very slightly off. The windscreen, contrary to what you may read elsewhere, is correct, but... the line of the roof edge at the top of the drivers door isn't quite right. On the kit, it rises steadily to the front at the A-pillar, almost flattening out by that point. On the real car, the roofline curves gently down again from a "peak" about half way along the door. That changes the look surprisingly significantly. IMHO, a bit of gentle paring away and sanding on the top edge of the door, and reinstating the gutter, will work wonders... Enjoy it -- it is the most beautiful car ever made, after all, and absent the long-awaited Tamiya new-tool, it's your best chance to put one in your cabinet... bestest, M.
The factory-assembled LaFerrari runs $300. I guess you can buy the kit for about $60? So, there's $240 of paint, decals (the carbon, no doubt) and labour. Even assuming that Tamiya gets the decals and paint for free as the manufacturer, that's what? 30 hours of work at minimum wage. I reckon it would probably take me 40-50 hours to build one. So they must have some very skilled, fast, and extremely cheap assembly line workers in their "factory"... bestest, M.