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Matt Bacon

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About Matt Bacon

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build

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    Ilkley, West Yorkshire
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  1. The Porsche Outlaws and RWB Meyers Manx topic seem very popular. Apologies for being a bit behind the curve here but I was thinking... I have wanted for a few years to build a Singer 911, and I've gotten very deep into research, but I suddenly had a moment: why do I need to slavishly copy one that exists? I'd still like to make a replica in scale of one of the Singer cars, but I'm going to have more than a few bits left over. Why don't I build my own Outlaw Porsches? Or not-Eagle E-types? Or Alfaholics GTA's? There aren't any rules about building Hot Rods, though believability scores as well as artistic flair. So why not Restomods? It's a lot easier (and cheaper) to make the engineering decisions and body mod choices in 1/24-5 scale and work up your ideal interior and colour scheme than it is in full size. Given how popular the restomod scene is in real life, is it maybe time to make it a genre in car modelling...? best, M.
  2. @89AKurt You could also look at this: https://haynes.com/en-gb/ferrari-250-gto-manual It's not a traditional Haynes "Owners Maintenance Manual"... I don't have this one, (yet) but I have around 30 others in the same series, and they are a really good combination of development history, "anatomy of" (usually based on a restoration workshop dismantled vehicle), chassis histories and driver and engineer interviews. IMHO, they usually have everything you need to build a model, and most of what you need to decide which one you want to build... Plus at £12.50, it's a LOT cheaper than anything else you'll find easily... best, M.
  3. This is the one to get: https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=22699953626&cm_sp=snippet-_-srp1-_-tile2&searchurl=an%3DPritchard%26sortby%3D17%26tn%3D250%2BGTO Still expensive, but not insane. Porter Press also does one of their “car biographies” on Chassis 2153 GT, https://porterpress.co.uk/products/ferrari-250-gto-the-autobiography-of-4153-gt-standard-edition?_pos=2&_sid=b04f8ed8c&_ss=r This series usually has a good general model history as well as detail on the life of the specific car. It’s quite a bit cheaper as well. Porter also has what they claim will be “the definitive” 250 GTO book coming up later this year, but that’s going to be £450... mind you, better than paying more for an older book! best, M.
  4. You shouldn’t ever have a “wet” coat with Zero base coat paints. Several light coats a few minutes apart should do it. If you spray it too thick, the surface dries before the underneath, which can result in wrinkling, and the remaining solvent eating the primer. It’s a bit hard to tell, but that picture looks to me more like grittiness from the paint drying too soon than crazing the plastic underneath... Glad you found the tutorial helpful, though! best, M.
  5. Got started on the body. I glued the back to the sides first in a U-shape. The mating faces are very well-shaped, once you clean off the moulding pips and small amount of flash. The fit is such that when it's flush, the joint is at 90 degrees. After that had set (I used gel super glue) I put in the front floor. It you're doing one of these yourself, note that the floors sit on top of the moulded ridges on the sides. This is not clear from the instructions OR photos. Then I dropped in the front and rear seat fronts, which slide firmly but easily into the slots in the sides. The central seat back and divider are an equally good fit. The idea is to use the body as a jig to assemble the seat upholstery and cushions, gluing it all together, and then remove the complete seat benches to paint separately from the body. Hmmmm... best, M.
  6. Right, that's it: "Stage 3:the engine" is now complete... Boy, am I glad to see that back of this bit... Still, it's a cool engine, and I understand much better how it works having built one. The wires could be thinner, but being black they have less visibility than they might, and I think the engine is much improved by having them in place... Now, on with the body.... best, M.
  7. Looks great... but shouldn’t you display it sideways on two wheels? 😜 And if there was ever a kit crying out to be “enhanced” with an appropriate figure set, that’s the one! best, M.
  8. That looks absolutely fantastic. The detail, and the quality of the paintwork, are second to none. I doubt that Revell kit has ever looked better... best, M.
  9. Idly looking... the 1/12 Franklin Mint "die-cast" model, which is very impressive, seems to sell for less than $1000. Believe me, if I was charging for building this 1/24 scale model, it would be a LOT more than that by the end. Interestingly, the follow-on to the 1/12 Bentley from Airfix was going to be a 1/12 Silver Ghost https://www.vectis.co.uk/lot/2953-airfix-archive_149132 It would be interesting to know how much, if any of Airfix's research investment supported the Franklin Mint version... best, M.
  10. Agreed, but it doesn't exactly encourage Meng (a Chinese manufacturer themselves) to behave in the "right"way in global commerce, does it? As long as Meng has been around (and they started in armour, but have also made some fantastic airplanes and their own "Toon" series of armour and ships), they've played by the same rules as Tamiya or Hasegawa, and all credit to them for that... best, M.
  11. Well, I imagine part of the reason the Meng kit is more expensive is that they paid Ford the license fee they are owed, and “Magnifier” didn’t... best, M.
  12. 3460 lbs with no one aboard and no fuel... That’s about 2 and a bit Model T’s. For context the modern Rolls Royce Phantom weighs in at 5640 lbs, so the 1907 Silver Ghost is 60% of the weight of the 2021 range topper... best, M.
  13. The “Roi de Belges” body on AX201 is famously heavy, especially compared to later coach work. It might be a unique (or unusual) arrangement to ensure a compliant ride even with that heavy body full of people. Although the 40/50HP was in production a long time, it was a continuously evolving work in progress, and the rate of change was pretty high in the early years! best, M.
  14. I’m not that daft @absmiami ! 😜 The back end is how it’s shown on the built model photos. And while I’m struggling to find a rear view pic of AX201 IRL, this is the (famously meticulously researched) Franklin Mint 1/12 model: best, M.
  15. Thanks, all... any pictures of an early Silver Ghost would be much appreciated... unless they show I've got it wrong 😜 So, I've bitten the bullet and started the wiring... and stopped. there's only so much I can do in one session before my eyes and mojo give up the "Ghost"... In these pictures, the "Pan pipes" are not fixed. I just wanted to satisfy myself that it can be fixed and stay below the line of the water pipe. The real pipe angles up much more steeply to the top of the radiator, but this has to stay low to make sure the bonnet top fits, which is definitely more than scale thickness. As you can see, half the magneto wires are in place at one end... Turns out, I CAN drill the distributor... without even breaking one .35mm drill bit! Another session or two to go, I think... best, M.
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