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Matt Bacon

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About Matt Bacon

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24

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  • Location
    Ilkley, West Yorkshire
  • Full Name
    Matt

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  1. Read any of the books or watch the restorers videos, and one of the things you’ll hear pretty quickly is that those non-repro/continuation GT40s are all different. Shelby and Holman Moody built them up differently with fittings and components in different places, joints and fixings done differently. And the cars continued to evolve through their lives. There’s a pretty good chance that the #1 and #2 cars weren’t the same when they sat next to each other on the grid. The best you can hope for is to have good reference of the specific car you want to build on the occasion you want to depict and work from that. That’s what the Rare Drive guys did when they restored the #2 car five years ago. I’ve got a pretty good library, years of research time on the internet, and helpful people have sent me pictures of cars in collections and museums, but I’ve not found any detailed reference images of what the #1 car looked like under the hood and in the cockpit in the pits at the Circuit de la Sarthe at 3pm on Saturday 18th June 1966. So I’ve done the best I can with what I CAN find. best, M.
  2. It looks from the CAD as if they’ll leave you to do your own wiring and plumbing. 90% of what’s “wrong” with the 1/12 version are the start and/or end points of the hoses or wiring harness. And 90% of that 90% isn’t obvious or even visible when it’s built. So if you’re doing it yourself, you can fix all that (for the specific car you’re building, since there’s no such thing as standard in the originals) and it’ll be as accurate as you can make it... best, M.
  3. A lovely build of a real classic car. Beautifully finished and detailed. best, M.
  4. Thanks @Dann Tier those boxes are the “boot” or “trunk” demanded by the 1960s Le Mans regulations. Goodness know what you could put in them without cooking it, but hey... They are a “hangover” like the spare wheel (handy ballast if carefully placed) and the second “co-driver” seat which only a midget could fit in (see Porsche 917...) best, M.
  5. So, I have been painting lots of pale blue, some of it less successfully than other bits, hence slow progress... but at last, progress there has been. Still no glue, no filler, and some well-hidden screws! best, M.
  6. It really captures the look of the original very well: best, M.
  7. Yes. It’s a good kit that builds into a great-looking model. The hardest part of using the etch is building the “egg-crate” grille. This is how I did it on mine: best, M.
  8. Depending where you are in the process, 15m. doses is between about 1lb of pure RNA vaccine and 2000 gallons of liquid. Making it Is a complex biological and biochemical process that’s a lot more like breeding winning racehorses than building cars, and you don’t know what you’ve got until the end. And believe me, I’d rather be safe than sorry when it comes to injecting a cocktail of teeny tiny supposedly tame disease machines into my arm... best, M.
  9. Thanks, guys. Although it may seem like slow progress, off-camera I'm working my way through prepping and painting the main body components. Trying to get them properly painted while making sure all the precise snap fit location sockets and pins remain usable means a lot of masking! The cabin firewall insulation is probably not totally accurate, but I think it captures the spirit of the real thing -- quite "artisanal". I also need to make sure that it doesn't get in the way of the close fitting door interiors or block the functional latches. As you can see, I have some of Zero's colour matched paint for this car on the go! The front reservoir is just dropped roughly in place to see the effect. It doesn't fit permanently until after the core central tub and door assembly is put in place and screwed down. Although it's only 5 pieces, I think the detail is quite nice, even in unforgiving close up. Looking pretty solid and reasonably busy in all the right places. The rear clam interior clips on, swings open and closed and pins neatly into place when shut. Another nice bit of engineering. I think there'll be acres of pale blue in the next update... best, M.
  10. Thank you both! @935k3 the exhausts are a mixture of AK Interactive “Extreme Metal” Stainless Steel and Bronze. Though I say it myself, I’m very pleased with how it came out! best, M.
  11. Thanks, both! Getting near to completing the chassis now... Fuel pumps and hoses: there are only two of the flexible vinyl hose harness pieces, but they do the job pretty convincingly. Having found a really good reference picture of the distributor in the latest Octane magazine, I came down this morning determined to rearrange the ignition harness. And then looked again at this and realised you couldn't see anything! All those years of picking up foil and cigarette packet paper paid off... this is the section between the seats, which at least on the 1966 cars is covered in insulation -- the radiator hoses go through there. The seats are very clever. These two pieces fit into slots in the soft vinyl "hammock" moulding to provide some structure. Tamiya Titanium Silver spray paint and a fine black marker pen... And this is where we are tonight. The other seat is having its seat belts built. best, M.
  12. Look like Car and Driver has the pics and the production Z400 will look very like the Z Proto concept. Given Tamiya’s symbiotic relationship with Z cars, the only question seems to be whether we see a kit this year alongside the 240ZG in 1/24, or have to wait until next year... best, M.
  13. Thanks, both! The back end is starting to look pleasingly busy and solid.There's some clever engineering in there to get the transmission in, but it's nerve-wracking. There's one "polycap" in the whole kit, which goes inside the transmission. "What's that for?" you say to yourself as you put it together. Well... fitting the transmission in place involves unscrewing the lower wheel carrier axle screws, folding the hubs, carriers and brakes upwards, sliding the transmission through with the half shafts in place, getting the poly cap over a pillar on the chassis, then angling the engine and transmission upwards to locate the tabs on the transmission in the slots on the engine and flexing it back downwards to snap fit the block and transmission together, which is only possible because of the flex the polycap provides. After that, bending the driveshafts at the universal joint, bringing the wheel carriers back down with the shafts inside at the hub and refitting the lower carrier screws is child's play by comparison! All that reference is going to really come in useful as the rest of the engine bay and plumbing is fitted! best, M.
  14. Meng did a very good job on these. Each pipe locates snugly but crisply into the X-socket at the engine end, and they pop neatly over and around each other to end up in the pair of 2x2 squares ready to go into the 4:1 reducers. I've built other kits with the same exhaust arrangements that have been a NIGHTMARE to align.... I'm looking at you, IMC Lola. The engine can now slot in place in the chassis while work continues on the transmission... best, M.
  15. Made good progress on the engine: The vinyl for the spark plug wires is fantastic... super flexible, pops over the nubbins on the distributor and "plugs" really easily. The only question is that I'm not sure it's in the right place; the drawings of where it's meant to end up are not completely clear, and there's nothing to positively locate the wire-holding "brackets." That said, looking at my reference photos, there are a variety of placements of the real thing as well... best, M.
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