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      Board Status   07/20/2018

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Matt Bacon

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About Matt Bacon

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ilkley, West Yorkshire
  • Full Name
  1. PS paints are “hotter” than TS or AS to key onto polycarbonate, which is chemically tougher than polystyrene. The paint layer is also more flexible, so it doesn’t flake off every time the RC body flexes or gets dinged. Bottom line is that they aren’t meant for styrene kits and using them is risky as they might eat your kit even with primer. There are a handful of colours that aren’t available in TS, but there are alternatives in other more suitable hobby or craft paint ranges... best, M.
  2. Porsche 911 (964) RS 3.8

    Dymo labelling tape (the kind you used to have with a little handheld machine that you dialled letters into and clicked to emboss them in the coloured plastic tape so they appeared white). It works for single curvature surfaces very well and can be reused repeatedly. Not so good for compound curves because it doesn’t bend in two directions at once. For that specific problem, I’d stick the body shell firmly to a piece of glass or smooth tile, either double sided tape. Mount the scriber horizontally on top of a block of wood or plastic the correct height to move the cutting head along the body at the point where you want the line. Then just slide the block and scriber gently over the glass and the point will hit the body the same distance up from the lower edge all the way along. If necessary to get low enough down, start with a scriber blade or sewing needle to make the first guide line, then take the body off the base and use the regular scriber to cut the line deeper. best, M
  3. Grand Sport #005 Pre Race

    Race rules? The Ferrari 330P4 I built recently has a spare mounted above the transmission, behind the engine and visible through the big hole in the back. I can't believe they'd carry that extra weight around unless they had to... It might also be that it's necessary because in some races the driver can't be helped out on the circuit... I've seen enough pictures of lone guys trying to dig themselves out of the sand traps at Le Mans to think that must be (or have been) a rule there... best, M.
  4. Mysterious AdBlock uninstall?

    What browser are you using? The latest Safari, for example, has changed the way it works to improve security, so there needed to be a new version of Adblock. The old one is incompatible, so no longer runs as a plug-in, but downloading and installing the new one resolves the issue. It maybe that the same is also true of other browsers, and if you have auto-updating turned on, your browser installed the new plug-in when it was available... best, M.
  5. The music is, for sure, outstanding (so is the whole Apollo album). But Clarkson was just SOOOO wrong. Never mind half a dozen faster, more powerful Astons since then; McLaren hadn't even got started on road cars; the P1, LaFerrari and Porsche 918 were still to come; the Veyron Supersports and Chiron went bigger badder and faster, Ferrari had the 599GTO, F12, 812 Superfast, 458 Speciale and 488, FF and GTC, and FXX-K on the way; Pagani hadn't launched the Huayra nor Koenigsegg the Agera or One:1; the new NSX and Supra were still on the drawing boards, and Ford hadn't started thinking about the latest GT. I'm not even gonna try to list the dozen or more Corvette/Camaro/Challenger/Charger Supersport SRT Hellblazer Wildcat Redeye Demon F300s rolled out since 2009. And the electric drivetrain guys like Rimac don't seen to be turning their noses up at making balls-out, unfettered supercars either. Frankly, there have probably been more speed and power record smashing cars that can also be driven on the road by normal people launched since Clarkson made that film than there were in the 20 years before... best, M.
  6. 63 Corvette Coupe -- Revell, 1/25

    No WIP for this one -- a very quick build to try and relight my modelling fire. It's the Revell Snap-tite kit, so pretty simplified, but thanks to @Snake45, I believe it's the best-shaped C2 Coupe around. Looks good to me, anyway! Paint is Tamiya rattle can black and clear, polished with Novus. Interior mostly Citadel (Games Workshop) red acrylics. All chrome stripped and redone with Molotow. Oddly, unlike other revell Snap-tite kits I've had, this one didn't include regular decals alongside the peel-n-stick emblems, so they've been trimmed back to get rid of excess clear film, and actually don't look so bad, IMHO. best, M.
  7. Maserati 3500 GT instructions

    If you want a blow-by-blow build alongside the instructions, mine's here: Any questions, just ask... best, M.
  8. Oh, boy... I'm a pretty indiscriminate kit history nut: Monogram, Revell, Airfix, Heller, Frog.... I have 'em all. Which is why I bought this. Because I never, ever buy or build kits of American cars (the Europeans and JDM keep me busy, for sure). And especially not Muscle Cars... not interested. Honest. Well, it's a great read. Your kit history plus industry insights are really well written, and fascinating commentary. Unfortunately, though, I'm a sucker for really high-quality kits, whatever the subject, and wittingly or no, you provided me with shopping list... And now look what you did: Not including the Chevelle SS, 67/68 Camaros and 66 GTO that are hiding in other corners of the stash 'cos they'll fall on the floor if they don't... Now, I appreciate I may be unusual in not having so many in the stash already as other potential avid readers, but that's BY FAR the most expensive book I've ever bought: I think I must have added $400 of kits to the shelves in the few weeks since I got it, and that's WITHOUT the hard to find ones (Still looking for a Monogram Judge and a good Stingray this side of the pond...). So, Tim... thanks... I think. Seriously... buy it, it's a great book. best, M.
  9. Just saw these kits online

    It is. Built up, it looks like this.... Message me with your email address, and I'll send you the full buildup review text I did for Airfix Model World. best, M.
  10. All Japan Model & Hobby Show 2018

    I’d put money on a new Supra road car done to LFA standard. They can’t reveal it yet until Toyota stops teasing with the race version and shows the road car to the world... best, M.
  11. Don't forget this one: Monogram kit but with a whole load of white metal parts cast by Fine Molds... and very nice they are too: best, M.
  12. My local classic car show

    Weather wasn't so great, but the turnout was pretty impressive. a few highlights here, the rest in the full gallery here: https://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Cars/Burley-Car-Sow-2018/ best, M.
  13. If you can find this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Evo-Stik-Serious-Strong-Adhesive-663671/dp/B00ID68T5Q/ref=sr_1_6?m=ADP0WGXA9SAVO&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1534452225&sr=1-6 I'd recommend it. It's not superglue (I don't know what exactly it is, TBH) but it will stick painted parts together and keep them that way. It has no effect that I've found on paint including enamel, Tamiya acrylics in a pot, Tamiya spray (TS) paint or 2pack clearcoated Zero paints. It has good "grab" (a small dot will hold the weight of a mirror on a door as soon as you put it in place), starts to cure in a few minutes, is stuck firm after an hour or so, and reaches full strength after 24 hours. If you "catch" the mirror after 24 hours, most of the time it won't come off (you really have to peel the parts apart), and if you do pull them apart 99% of the time it comes off the surface with no damage to the paint. It's pretty tough, gap filling, and goes exactly where you put it with a toothpick or bit of wire as an applicator. The only drawyback is that you really do need to clean the nozzle and lid each time you use it, so you get a good closure without gluing the nozzle and lid together. It will cure in the tube eventually if there isn't a good seal at the top. best, M.
  14. Favorite Car

    Realistically... In my dreams: I guess there's a theme, though... best, M.
  15. '68 Firebird 400 Stock wheels/tyres

    Thanks, guys! The trick now is going to find me someone who can sell me some without charging half as much again for the postage as the actual wheels... best, M.