No, not going to happen on THAT printer... It does not have the resolution or ability to print anything that fine. It would be like trying to paint a 1/24th scale instrument cluster with a 4" brush. Just can't do it. Mark
I've been doing it for years and also repeating myself time and time again.... This is where 3D CAD programs come into the mix along with the skills to model parts in 3D. Having a 3D printer does no one any good until they can model the parts they need in 3D. The printer has to have an STL file to print a 3D part... The tire and wheel in the pic were modeled in 3D, exported as STL files and sent to Shapeways to print... Mark
Spot glazing putty works fine for shallow pinholes, notice I said shallow... Just be careful to not apply it too thick. It does have a high shrink rate and will continue to shrink for a long time as it cures. That is why I recommend the 2 part for holes and such. Some of the pinholes can be pretty deep. The 2 part does not shrink so there is no danger of "sink marks" in a finished paint job after using it. Mark
I know a lot of guys use Superglue to fill pinholes on resin but you have to remember the resin is MUCH softer then the superglue. You have a very good chance of sanding divots around the pile of superglue if you are not careful. I would suggest using a 2 part polyester putty to do any body work on resin. it sands just like the resin so you aren't going to create more problems then you fix with it. Mark
"Regular" paint, even if it is flat, has a different composition then "primer". Primer is meant to fill imperfections and be sandable so it has more solid material in it. A couple of coats of primer/surfacer will sand down MUCH better then a couple of coats of top coat intended paint. The primer allows you to sand it down, not only to level surfaces but to cover body work and feather-edge body worked areas. Regular paint is not intended for that purpose. Mark
It really doesn't matter when it comes to replicating them. Any Pontiac motor will work. The blocks, cylinder heads and intake manifolds from 389 thru 455's are all physically the same size. The only real differences are internal. Mark
Okay, I sent a customer question to USC right from their site... If anyone else is interested in a downsized Icing container feel free to do the same. http://uschem.com/index.cfm?page=products&catid=15&pid=1 Mark
The one part putties usually shrink way to much. I have never used the Tamiya (never had call to buy any) but I know the one part spot putties will shrink a lot when applied to thick. They also have tendency to attack the plastic and don't feather out as well as the two parts do. I have always used automotive based primers and paints and find the spot putties will also raise a bit when shot with a lacquer based primer. The epoxies don't attack it like lacquer but it has been an issue in my world. And yes, Bill, you are right about the Icing getting a "bit" dry after a fashion. I use enough of it though that that isn't a problem for me. I wonder if USC would be open to suggestions to produce smaller "modeler" sized tubes... I think I will contact them and see what they say.
I use USC's Icing. 2 part polyester, no shrinkage and it can be mixed in about any quantity you need. I started using this stuff on the 1:1 paint jobs. Tried it on the plastic and have never had a reason to use anything else. It sets up quick, sands easy and never so hard that it is impossible to sand. Works very well and I will recommend it to everyone. used it on the '56 conversion with no worries of shrink back or difficult sanding. Mark
I use a Sony Mavica 73. It's direct to disc. 3 1/2" floppy. Being it's digital I went with this camera to shoot small parts when I was running Machined Aluminum Specialties. This camera will focus down to a 1/2". It has an optical zoom which functions much better for close work then the digital zoom cameras. I found a newer version of this camera at a thrift shop for 5 bucks. it has a digital zoom and will not focus on items closer then about 10 inches. It does have a movie function though which is why I picked it up. These pics were taken with it, in my shop, with absolutely no special lighting. Just a clean sheet of paper to set the parts on.
Well, this is a HUGE project... Both in size AND the skill required to reach the level of detail shown in that Delorean. Part of the problem is, you have no model or scratch building experience to help you. I would really suggest picking up a couple of regular kits and building them to get some experience. At this point you need to understand what it will take to build your grail. Starting small and working your way up is the best way to get there. Mark
Hey Brad, Why is 1/6th scale so important? Just asking. You could do some kit bashing and build one for cheap in 1/25th scale. Sure would be a lot easier. The '67 Impala kit already exists in that scale. Making it a notchback and a four door isn't hard to do. Check these out. http://www.spencer1984.com/my_models/supernatural-1.php Mark
Yes, too big! I don't know of anyone who has a printer big enough to do a 1' x 2' x 3' print... You would have to break the model out into separate body panels to do it. The chassis would also have to be broken into smaller parts. Like the others have said, 1/8th would be better. I would go 1/12th though as you have a lot of existing models to source parts from. The engine and trans could be used from any number of kits. The cost is going to skyrocket quickly. Creating molds is not going to be cheap or easy. Big parts require lots of rubber and resin... Mark