Did you mean to say Dehydrator? As in a food dehydrator? Can I ask how the body was prepped before spraying? Sanded? Washed with hot water and TSP? Did you use Gloss or Satin paint? If it is Gloss it should come out shiney with no need to clear for the shine. Answer my questions and we can better help you. Mark
If I could make a suggestion? Maybe you already have this in your plan but, if you shoot a light coat of clear around your taped edges it will "seal" the edge so no color can seep under the tape. If there is any seepage with the clear you won't see it. Mark
This is my '56 two door Handyman 150 wagon. You just don't see the wagons as much as the coupes and hard tops. It's fairly unique and always draws comments when I drive it.
I would really like one in the Pontiac venue. Very stylish.
Probably not happening guys. I haven't received any real interest in these. Tires or wheels. I know a few of you have spoken up but, 5 or 6 "potential" buyers just don't make it worth while. Not only from the cost of the 3D CAD time and the printed parts but also the time and money spent in rubber and resin to reproduce them.
I do have the Vector wheels on hand and they turned out beautiful, I haven't taken photos just because the interest isn't there. The guy that stiffed me on these really screwed up because the wheels and tires tuned out great!
If anyone wants to pursue them further please PM me, I am open to suggestions but right now I am thinking these will be shelved.
3D In Scale
Just to throw some what if's out there... Instead of brass why not use steel tubing? Steel hydraulic lines come in many sizes and can definetly be bought to replicate the 1 5/8, 1 3/4 (use 3/16th OD) and 2 inch (use .25 OD) sizes used in most race chassis. Mig or Tig welding the tubing would be far easier then soldering those large cross-sections presented by 1/4" diameter brass tubing. Doing this would eliminate any melt-back of other joints close to where the soldering is being done. Solid rod can be used for smaller "tubes".
IF I was to build a large scale model, this is the way I would go.
Get some CHROME look spray paint. Now wait... hear me out. Prep your parts and spray the paint. I will usually decant this stuff and use an airbrush as it comes out of the can very heavy. Once it sets up, (give it a day or two) shoot some clear on it. The clear mutes it down and what you end up with is a nice cast or brushed aluminum finish.
Here are before and after pics of some cabinet handles I painted for a bench I built out of an old bathroom cabinet. The first one is the chrome paint and the second is after clearing.
Of course you could always use the Alcad cast or brushed aluminum paint but that's too easy, right?
I use my 7.5hp 2 stage compressor for all of my painting needs. You will need a small regulator/Filter and the adapter fittings to get your airbrush hooked up to the big guy.
I have a nice filter/regulaor I got at Harbor Freight. It works well with no issues.
HF will also have the quick disconnects if you are using those in your current setup. They aren't the best but they work well for this application.
Make one. A few pieces of .015 styrene would do the trick. You know what shape you like so cut the pieces out and glue them together. Smooth off with sandpaper and apply to the hood of your choice.
The problem with the smaller scales is getting the detail to show through the laminations the printer makes while "printing" the part. The smaller the scale the less detail you are going to see. I have been doing the 3D side for 30 years so it is easy. I can model up anything you have in mind. PM if you want to talk. Let me know what you want to do and we can go from there. All confidentiality applies.
3D In Scale
The '39 is a nice looking car! It would take me about 5 minutes to make it "mine"! Clean up that engine, replace some funky looking radiator hoses, Put on a set of TT II's and drive it! You really do need to get rid of the generic 90's style aluminum wheels.