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About astroracer

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  • Birthday 12/14/1955

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  • Location Mid-Michigan
  • Full Name Mark Smakal

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astroracer's Activity

  1. astroracer added a post in a topic Found these cool key chain,pill holders,to be used as NOS bottles   

    I turned hundreds of those things when I owned Machined Aluminum Specialties. Even had photo-etched stands. I can spin a couple for you if want.
  2. astroracer added a post in a topic Long Bodies   

     I still drive a station wagon.

  3. astroracer added a post in a topic Removing pre-decorated graphics   

    Sand it down with 600 grit wet/dry paper. Use it wet with warm water. Sand the whole car to scuff it up then prime and paint normally.
  4. astroracer added a post in a topic heyyy you guuuyyyyyyssss   

     Epoxy is a glue, it is not to be used as "clear coat" for a painted model... BUT it can be used as a "clear coat" for laminated carbon fiber or kevlar layups. This is what you may have been told... Please verify your info as to the use of the product.
  5. astroracer added a post in a topic How do you glue plug wires?   

    Pop the covers off and glue from the inside. If you put a small 90 degree bend on the wire that will lock it in place while you are gluing.
  6. astroracer added a post in a topic Air Brush Paint   

     And don't forget nail polish. This is lacquer also and thins and mixes just like the automotive paint. I use it a lot. A couple of bottles will cover a 1/24th-1/25th car very well. A buck or two at the dollar stores and Big Lots... Very cheap compared to the other brands and the color selection is ENDLESS!
  7. astroracer added a post in a topic soaking resin and styrene parts to clean   

    True, MOST of the time the ejection of the parts is left up to the design of the mold, shrinkage of the parts as they cool and the ejector pins used to push the sprues out. Sometimes you get sticky parts that don't like to pop out easily and this is where a mold release may be used. I worked at a small shop where I designed injection mold dies and one of the dies would get sticky after it ran for a couple of hours. A bit of mold release spray would help the sprue pop out during the ejection cycle.
  8. astroracer added a post in a topic Scratch built Dyno Tester   

    Watch this video. They don't use chains. Ratcheting tie down straps are easy to make from athletic or medical tape.
  9. astroracer added a post in a topic Strange Boondocker Blazer on Ebay   

     I have a couple of the 1/25th scale Boondocker kits. They were molded in orange.
  10. astroracer added a post in a topic 1/16 1969 General Lee   

    Using styrene to completely fill the openings is the better alternative. Cut and shape your filler panels to completely fill the opening then sand to level to the rest of the body. Styrene is as stable as the rest of the body so shrinking and cracking are virtually eliminated. use the 2 part filler to fill minor voids and build up low spots.
    I don't have a build thread on the '56 Mike, sorry. Ron Andrews has had the parts to resin cast it for quite while now. Years in fact... Holler at him to get it done! I've tried with no luck...
  11. astroracer added a post in a topic Polishing Glass   

    Get it to a point, 800 or 1000 grit and you can clear coat the "glass" to bring the translucency back. i do this with full size head and tail lights. Sand out to 800 and then clear. The tail lights on my truck were done exactly this way when I whited out the edges to match the truck.

  12. astroracer added a post in a topic 1/16 1969 General Lee   

    Hi Jim, you are doing some good work here BUT I cringe at all of that supeglue you are using. The problem with superglue, and I am sure you are very aware of it is, it sands so much harder then the base styrene. If I could make a bit of a suggestion to replace that superglue with a 2 part polyester filler.
    I use this stuff exclusively when doing conversions or for ANY body work that needs to be done on a kit body.
    I added a couple of pics of a 1/16th scale '56 post conversion I did from an AMT '55. all of the major bodywork was done with styrene sheet and the Icing. The Icing does not shrink when it cures, sands VERY easily and feathers out beautifully. If you get it and try it I think you will like it. It will cut your sanding time down by a ton.

  13. astroracer added a post in a topic soaking resin and styrene parts to clean   

    Hi Steve, no worries on the war thing. I don't know how or why this got started, it really doesn'y matter. It's just something that has proliferated and has no basis in fact. Soaking over night does nothing different from a quick wash and scrubbing with hot water and TSP. The key ingredient here is the TSP (Trisodiumphosphate).
    The real issue here is, in fact, not the mold releases themselves, but the silicone rubber that the molds are made of. Removing the thin film of silicone that attaches itself to the resin during the molding process is what you need to do. TSP is a degreaser designed to remove this silicone film. House painters use it extensively when prepping vinyl and aluminum siding for paint. I use it everytime I paint a full size car to wash and scrub every surface that is getting painted to remove the road grime AND ArmorAll. Silicone... The TSP does this very well and I have no problems with fisheyes.
     Wesley's used to have TSP in it. The formula has been altered since Black Magic bought out Wesley's. There is no TSP in it now... I don't know how it will work for cleaning the resin. I just use TSP bought at the hardware store and mix it with hot water.
    As everyone knows, styrene kits are not produced in "rubber" molds so they don't have the silicone issue.
  14. astroracer added a post in a topic Nitrile gloves   

    Yes, that works as well. I painted many a model on a "pop bottle" stand.
  15. astroracer added a post in a topic soaking resin and styrene parts to clean   

    Like a couple of the guys posted above , there is no need to "soak" the resin in anything. I have never soaked a single resin part. A simple wash with hot water and dawn, scrub with ScotchBrite and keep it clean and oil free and you are good. I usually add a bit if TSP to the hot water as this is an excellant degreaser and works well with the Dawn.
     The mold releases the casters use are no different then what the injection mold guys use. You never hear you have to soak styrene to get it clean. So why do you have to soak resin? There is no basis in fact on this "opinion" and it is just an old wives tale... I wish it would go away...
     if you do a search you will see about a dozen of these threads and I and Art Anderson trying to dispell the myth...