The Forums will be down, Friday, November 24th starting 8 AM PST for upgrade.We'll probably be down until 1PM PST, but it might be longer. I'm doing a major forum software upgrade, so I expect the forums to operate somewhat differently when we come back online. Update: I've had a medical issue come up, and this window might not get used. If it doesn't, I'll push the maintenance back to Saturday, 2 December.
Thanks Bill, but not really. I use one of these a lot in the shop making one-off gaskets and templates for 1 to 1 cars I am building. My punch is much bigger, but the principal is the same. https://www.micromark.com/Micro-Punch-Set
Make them. The 1/25th scale diameter of the rivet head will be 0.01 ( a #87 drill) OR .25mm's. Stack a couple of pieces of clear plastic (1/8th inch or so thick) and use the drill to drill a hole through both pieces. Lay some aluminum foil in between and punch out a circle with the back side of the drill. This will get you as many rivets as you will ever use in a couple of minutes... Mark
http://roadstershop.com/product/full-chassis/1967-69-camaro-spec-chassis/http://roadstershop.com/product/full-chassis/1967-69-camaro-spec-chassis/ There are a number of suppliers building full frames for the F-bodies. You can build whatever you need by studying the real 1:1 photos and making your frame and suspension look the part. They don't have to be exact but getting the parts to look correct in scale is important. Mark
Small photo-etched parts can be cleaned and painted just like the plastic. There is no need to use self-etching primer as long as the parts are sanded and cleaned along with the base plastic pieces. Self-etching is important on aluminum, especially on 1:1 (1 to 1) builds, but is not a requirement when painting stainless or nickle pieces which most P.E. parts are made from. Mark
I have a bit of experience being an aftermarket supplier. I ran Machined Aluminum Specialties for 15 years before having to get out of it. One thing you will find very quickly is most model builders are very fickle (and cheap)... You guys let me know if I'm lying... A "what if" thread is a waste of time for what you want to do unless you can constrain the "what if's" to a narrow subject band. Develop a list of subjects and don't allow deviation from that list. Make it a poll, pick one or two off this list, kind of thing. If you don't control the input you will get requests for everything from a dome light for a '52 Rambler to window slats for a '69 Mustang. One person may buy one of each but, if it costs more then a dollar, it'll be too spendy. See where I'm going with this? Voice of experience here... 100 guys will holler "I'll buy 10 of those if you make them!" You make them and 10 guys MAY buy 1... That's just the way it is. And it's the same issue with the bodies you are doing. 3D printed pieces are too expensive for the casual modeler to consider. Resin casting brings the piece cost down but you still have to have a market to justify the upfront cost and time. It's a very niche market for the custom stuff anyway and, if there is a ton of scratch building to do the niche gets even smaller. And I am in no way trying to discourage you here. You just need to realize what you are getting into in this model car aftermarket "hobby". Keep up the good work, your models, both 3D and printed, look great. Mark
Good plan. My direction would be to resin cast it now. Use the resin piece to "finish" your panel lines and add additional detail. Then re-cast as the finished master. Much less cost and dinking around with buying & finishing another printed piece. How complete is the kit going to be? You will find most guys buying this will want to be able to just put it together with zero scratch building. Same issue with the Roach Coach. If it's not a complete kit you will have a few buyers where as a complete model will attract many more. Mark
You have to bury it primer. Then sand it to smooth out the texture and all of the "resolution transitions" you can see in the last three pics. That's the hard part, priming and sanding enough to hide the printing discrepancies but not so much you destroy the detail in the part. The 3D printed material is very soft and sands much easier compared to styrene. It is also softer then most resins so you really have to go easy with it. Mark
Just a comment. Your panel lines look to be very shallow. You may want to increase those a bit so they don't get buried in the primer/smoothing stage of finishing the 3D printed model. It does look pretty good though. I imagine the price point between the white, strong and flexible and the Frosted Ultra Fine Detail is pretty big. Mark
And don't just look at models. In order to authentically replicate a race motor of any kind you need to know what the real motors look like. Subscribe to a few car magazines and look on parts sites like Summit and Jegs. The real key to a good model is scale. Getting the parts scaled correctly is 90% of the job. Wires, fittings, hoses and tubing sizes are some of the areas where scale is important. A full size ignition wire is 3/8ths to 1/2" inch in diameter. A model ignition wire that is any bigger then .020 in diameter is too big. I built this BBC in 1989. There is well over 100 hours into building it (just the engine) and there isn't a lot of parts that aren't to scale.
Hey Chris, nice chart! If you would add a Metric column to it I think it would be even nicer. Keep in mind that an inch dimension in 1/24th or 1/25th scale is equal to the same number in Metric. Example: 1 inch in 1 /25th scale equals 1mm in metric. 1.5 inches in 1/25th scale equals 1.5mm's This works really well for chassis, engine and other "scale" dimensions for comparing metric and inch sizes for fabricating. Mark
What scale? Just be aware you will have TON of work to do to smooth out the 3D printed panels. Very fine ribbing like that will be a pain... Think about making your own. Find a saw blade that has close to the correct spacing on the teeth. Mount it, lengthwise, to some sturdy blocks so you can push a sheet under it to scribe the panel lines. I can go into more detail if you are interested in the process. Mark
How smooth are the sidewalls of the current tires? Could you cut a whitewall from stick-on vinyl sheet and apply to the tire? Would it be feasible to cut a mask from painter's tape and paint the stripe? Just throwing ideas out there... Mark