astroracer

Members
  • Content count

    280
  • Joined

  • Last visited


About astroracer

  • Rank
    MCM Avid Poster
  • Birthday 12/14/1955

Contact Methods

  • Website URL http://www.mas-parts.com

Profile Information

  • Location Mid-Michigan
  • Full Name Mark Smakal

Recent Profile Visitors


3,930 profile views

astroracer's Activity

  1. astroracer added a post in a topic Air Brush Paint   

     And don't forget nail polish. This is lacquer also and thins and mixes just like the automotive paint. I use it a lot. A couple of bottles will cover a 1/24th-1/25th car very well. A buck or two at the dollar stores and Big Lots... Very cheap compared to the other brands and the color selection is ENDLESS!
    Mark
  2. astroracer added a post in a topic soaking resin and styrene parts to clean   

    True, MOST of the time the ejection of the parts is left up to the design of the mold, shrinkage of the parts as they cool and the ejector pins used to push the sprues out. Sometimes you get sticky parts that don't like to pop out easily and this is where a mold release may be used. I worked at a small shop where I designed injection mold dies and one of the dies would get sticky after it ran for a couple of hours. A bit of mold release spray would help the sprue pop out during the ejection cycle.
    Mark
  3. astroracer added a post in a topic Scratch built Dyno Tester   

    Watch this video. They don't use chains. Ratcheting tie down straps are easy to make from athletic or medical tape.
  4. astroracer added a post in a topic Strange Boondocker Blazer on Ebay   

     I have a couple of the 1/25th scale Boondocker kits. They were molded in orange.
    Makr
  5. astroracer added a post in a topic 1/16 1969 General Lee   

    Using styrene to completely fill the openings is the better alternative. Cut and shape your filler panels to completely fill the opening then sand to level to the rest of the body. Styrene is as stable as the rest of the body so shrinking and cracking are virtually eliminated. use the 2 part filler to fill minor voids and build up low spots.
    I don't have a build thread on the '56 Mike, sorry. Ron Andrews has had the parts to resin cast it for quite while now. Years in fact... Holler at him to get it done! I've tried with no luck...
    Mark
  6. astroracer added a post in a topic Polishing Glass   

    Get it to a point, 800 or 1000 grit and you can clear coat the "glass" to bring the translucency back. i do this with full size head and tail lights. Sand out to 800 and then clear. The tail lights on my truck were done exactly this way when I whited out the edges to match the truck.
    Mark

  7. astroracer added a post in a topic 1/16 1969 General Lee   

    Hi Jim, you are doing some good work here BUT I cringe at all of that supeglue you are using. The problem with superglue, and I am sure you are very aware of it is, it sands so much harder then the base styrene. If I could make a bit of a suggestion to replace that superglue with a 2 part polyester filler.
    http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/usc-icing-polyester-finishing-putty-p-10969.aspx?gclid=CK_awfqxsswCFcUmhgodw7IJng
    I use this stuff exclusively when doing conversions or for ANY body work that needs to be done on a kit body.
    I added a couple of pics of a 1/16th scale '56 post conversion I did from an AMT '55. all of the major bodywork was done with styrene sheet and the Icing. The Icing does not shrink when it cures, sands VERY easily and feathers out beautifully. If you get it and try it I think you will like it. It will cut your sanding time down by a ton.
    Mark


  8. astroracer added a post in a topic soaking resin and styrene parts to clean   

    Hi Steve, no worries on the war thing. I don't know how or why this got started, it really doesn'y matter. It's just something that has proliferated and has no basis in fact. Soaking over night does nothing different from a quick wash and scrubbing with hot water and TSP. The key ingredient here is the TSP (Trisodiumphosphate).
    The real issue here is, in fact, not the mold releases themselves, but the silicone rubber that the molds are made of. Removing the thin film of silicone that attaches itself to the resin during the molding process is what you need to do. TSP is a degreaser designed to remove this silicone film. House painters use it extensively when prepping vinyl and aluminum siding for paint. I use it everytime I paint a full size car to wash and scrub every surface that is getting painted to remove the road grime AND ArmorAll. Silicone... The TSP does this very well and I have no problems with fisheyes.
     Wesley's used to have TSP in it. The formula has been altered since Black Magic bought out Wesley's. There is no TSP in it now... I don't know how it will work for cleaning the resin. I just use TSP bought at the hardware store and mix it with hot water.
    As everyone knows, styrene kits are not produced in "rubber" molds so they don't have the silicone issue.
    Mark
  9. astroracer added a post in a topic Nitrile gloves   

    Yes, that works as well. I painted many a model on a "pop bottle" stand.
  10. astroracer added a post in a topic soaking resin and styrene parts to clean   

    Like a couple of the guys posted above , there is no need to "soak" the resin in anything. I have never soaked a single resin part. A simple wash with hot water and dawn, scrub with ScotchBrite and keep it clean and oil free and you are good. I usually add a bit if TSP to the hot water as this is an excellant degreaser and works well with the Dawn.
     The mold releases the casters use are no different then what the injection mold guys use. You never hear you have to soak styrene to get it clean. So why do you have to soak resin? There is no basis in fact on this "opinion" and it is just an old wives tale... I wish it would go away...
     if you do a search you will see about a dozen of these threads and I and Art Anderson trying to dispell the myth...
    Mark
  11. astroracer added a post in a topic Nitrile gloves   

    What you REALLY need to do is mount the body on a stand so you don't have to handle it during the painting process. A short piece of 2 x 4 with a couple pieces of "repurposed" wire clothes hanger works well. You've seen them here before. Make something like that, tape the car (on the inside) to the wire, and you are good to go.
    Mark
  12. astroracer added a post in a topic Good Airbrush/needle size for spraying lacquer???   

    What you are seeing is a paint, formulated to be sprayed from a rattle can, being sprayed through an airbrush.
    The 1st thing I will point out is, as you decant the paint, you are immediately losing the volatiles. The ingredients that help the paint to spray smoothly AND lay down and flow a bit before setting up are probably nearly gone by the time you get it into your airbrush and actually spraying. I would suggest decanting then adding a bit of laquer thinner to get the spraying consistancy correct for the airbrush. This will take some experimenting on your part to learn what amount the "new" paint likes...
     And, while your are at it, experiment with the nail polish. This stuff mixes and sprays just like laquer (it is laquer) and is a lot cheaper to buy at the dollar stores or Big Lots.
    Mark
  13. astroracer added a post in a topic PE emblem question   

    In order to get the correct look and good adhesion for your script you need to sand off the molded emblems during paint prep. One of the first things I do if photo-etch is in the mix.
    Mark
  14. astroracer added a post in a topic Crisp pinstripe lines.   

    Nice job on the paint Mike. One other thing I will suggest is to pick up some Scotch (3M) Fine Line Masking Tape:
    http://3mcollision.com/products/tapes/masking-tapes/scotch-performance-masking-tape-233-26343-3mm.html
    This tape is formulated to work with automotive paint. I use the 1/8th inch to outline flame jobs on 1:1 cars. And I will lay it out on a piece of glass to cut it narrower for model car stuff. Make sure the glass is clean so the tape doesn't pick stuff up. just tap the tape in place as straight as you can and cut with a steel ruler and sharp hobby knife.
    Mark
     
  15. astroracer added a post in a topic what paint do you use   

     I graduated to laquers many years ago. Other then needing a primer resistant to the hot thinners it is much easier and MUCH faster then enamels. Especially when shot thru an airbrush. I did this paint job on the Pro Street Buick in a day. Other then primer, shooting the base color, strips and clear top coat. You can't do that with enamel.
    The other thing about laquer is 99% of the nail polish out there is laquer based. Nail polish comes in so many wild colors it is crazy. Getting it at the dollar Store or Big lots will set you back 5 or 6 bucks for enough "paint" to do a couple of cars. It mixes and sprays just like laquer.
    Mark