Exotics_Builder

I am looking to acquire another Revell SA Aperta. I only acquired one, which I built. But, that was Euro Spec and I have an idea for a US Spec version. I am looking for a complete, unstarted kit.

The rest of the boxes arrived at the new house and now I need to get sorting and set up. I have gotten the kits up and reasonably organized. But the books, die cast, awards, tools and workstation await. Then I have to set up the paint booth in the garage. One delay factor is that a display cabinet got a glass panel broken, and I can't touch it until they repair it. Supposed to be here Wednesday afternoon. But not sure how he'll handle glass. The ceiling is 10 feet high, so there are a lot of kits. Once I settle in a bit, I am going to whittle that stash down through trade/.sell. I am expecting to reduce it 40 to 50%.

Catching up on what was acquired over the last six weeks. Unpacked them at the new house. First kit acquisitions: Next, door prizes from club meetings and events: Finally, some Jimmy Flintstone resin that will complement some ideas I have:

John, if I recollect, they were sized for Detail Master ignition wiring. I'd have to dig some out of the boxes yet unpacked to do more dimensioning

Off the top of my head, Scale Motorsports https://www.scalemotorsport.com/displays.html Mirror base, rotating displays can be found in craft stores, but you need to elevate the model for a good view. An aftermarket seller used to have an elevated acrylic display stand that has angled mirror in it, but I haven't seen him advertise for several years

Revell only bought the stock, not the molds. I don't recollect who got possession (if anyone) of the molds

I have 6 of the ones in your photo unbuilt, plus several others such as the Stratos, Dino 246 GTS, 365 GTB coupe and spyder, BMW 635s, etc Away from the stash for 4 more days so can't photo

Another thing I have done to get a colored clear is use the base color mixed into a clear paint. You need to experiment with it for the amount of transparency, but might be worth considering

Might I suggest using SMS Clear Carbon Fiber over the base color as a start.

Did you search the forum? http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/111739-warped-hood/?tab=comments#comment-1598718

Revell did the best detailed Rally Stratos I've seen back in the late 70's. I'm 2000 miles away from my stash for 2 more weeks, so can't pull it off the shelf to photo. I do have a couple of the Fujimi kits, the "street" red car version and the one on the right in the two photos above.

Pretty much what I know on these. On the Roaster, Revell's agreement with Stacey David lapsed. But, it could resurrect in another form with tweaks?

Well, the technique came from armor, aircraft and train modelers, where a lot of matte or flat finishes are used. Since matte/flat paints are not smooth, the technique is to apply clear gloss, polish it, decal it and then apply semi-gloss or flat clear to suit the finish you want. In one case, there was a single small decal that I used Solvaset on it a couple of times to get it to nestle in. It was a relatively smooth surface (firewall)

Quite the case. I did the Fujimi 635 Schnitzer some years back. That had decals on top of decals. Even though the display case was not in direct sunlight and had a door, those decals started yellowing and a couple crinkled after a couple of years. After that, I always cleared.

True, but I clear over sponsors to protect them as some decals age worse than others. Also, most modern race cars use wraps, so, as you stated, depends on the look you're after. I have some decals (usually kit) are quite thick, which may also require adjusting your technique for look.