Just because your dad's car didn't handle well, doesn't mean all 65 Galaxies; or all 'American' cars - are that way. My second car was a 65 Ford Galaxie 500 XL, and I thought it handled pretty well, back in 1970, and I put close to 40,000 miles on it . Of course, it didn't handle like a corvette, but I was quite pleased with it, both in performance and handling.. . Maybe your dad's car needed shocks, coil springs, and an alignment.....'Z'
While neither of the ones I voted on were picked, I respectfully suggest we wait until we actually SEE the test shots of these ? I'm beginning to think this hobby that has meant so much to me for 50 plus years, is full of whining, sniffling crybabies who would rather cut down something they haven't SEEN yet, then to actually offer constructive positive comments ? Yeah, they could both be total failures, or beautiful renditions - but it won't matter, as soon as they are released some nincompoops will go into 'AUTO DISTRUCT' mode - and frankly, I'm getting sick and tired of it. Saw it with the RAT ROASTER. The ford wagon. The latest version (STREET MACHINE) AMT 57 Chevy; the list is endless..... Steven Zimmerman
Many a time, back when cars had ignition coils , plugs, and points....Would make up a coil wire, using the boots off a real one, and attach them to a piece of rubber hose , and replace the coil wire with it.....'Z'
There are several aftermarket (1 / 1) dist. caps, that locate the wires '4 on the left and 4 on the right' Since I don't build 'stock' I do this to most of my builds....Of course, a lot of your newer engines have 8 separate coils, mounted on the valve covers, under a shield.....Also aftermarket valve covers that have the wires running through the valve covers, to separate coils, under the top of the valve cover, and then you have the 'trigger mount' wires, come off the front of the engine, down in front of the harmonic balancer - Harmonic balancers, another added detail a lot of people forget about !.....'Z'
I sent him 4 racks of assorted wheels, etc , to be chromed...prepped as per his instructions, and all in separate freezer zip lock bags........I got back 4 racks of 'stuff' looking like it had been dipped in over thinned, transparent silver paint (you could see right through it), with gobs of monkey snot in it. NO explanation, nothing. It took me numerous emails, in which he told me I didn't understand the process ( I do). And FINALLY, I got 1 /3 of my money back. I will never send them anything again. Ever.
Only way to tell is to actually measure them ..."I think"....or "they look" I understand, but measure them. BTW, almost ALL L-60's manufactured by different companies were different in width and height. I personally believe the new white lettered 'POLYGLAS GT' available in the new AMT wheel sets (L - 60 / f - 60) are GREAT looking, and I hope they sell all they can produce! One thing I have found as I grow older - What we remember vs. what actually WAS, are two different animals. I 'remember' the G - 70 being a HUGE tire.....but it wasn't.....'Z'
I pour a lot of resin wheels, and use the Alumalite 'white' resin, offered under the label 'AMAZING resin' , it has a longer working time before solidifying, and have had better results then their tan resin. I spray my molds with a mold release called STONER, and after pouring, I use cheap paintbrushes, with the bristles trimmed to about a quarter inch, and quickly run it around the wheel mold, spending extra attention to the recesses where the wheel 'lip' is. I buy these brushes at Hobby Lobby or Walmart, cost about a buck for 30 brushes. If you clean the brush immediately, you can use it several times. Also, I don't lay anything across the top of the mold, but slowly swipe a credit card size piece of plastic slowly across the top of the mold, removing excessive resin. Walmart offers , in the kitchen utensils dept, a set of 4 'counter top' protectors, size of a placemat, and is flexible - and CHEAP.... I cut them to business card size. Resin will stick, but peels off easily...........I also place my filled molds in a food dehydrator immediately, as small pieces like wheels don't create enough heat to harden alone - I leave mine for a half hour, using a 2 dollar kitchen wind up timer and let the molds cool for 5 minutes after removing, or they will still be soft.....'Z'