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About KJ790

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build

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  • Location
    Stephenson, VA
  • Full Name
    KJ Humphreys

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  1. I use paintref.com for cross referencing paint codes. This looks to be the shade of red that you are looking for: http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?comm=58209
  2. Finally calling this one done. This one fought me quite a bit. After a 2 year hiatus I came back to it and finished it. This is based on a Revel K100 kit. I shortened the chassis and the cab, changed the wheels and tires, and scratch built the fuel tanks, exhaust, and intake. I also added a 3D printed grille and resin bumper.
  3. Thanks Jeff! The stripes are all paint. It took me 2 attempts to paint it, and it still isn't perfect, but it will have to do. If I build another with the same stripe pattern, I will do it differently. I think it would be easier to use a thin decal stripe for the divider stripe rather than try to paint it.
  4. As promised, here are some updated pictures. I still have a few details left to finish up, but it is starting to look like a truck.
  5. After 2 years, I am back to working on this one. I had initially painted the cab with Tamiya rattle can, but when I clear coated it, the paint turned funky, so the whole thing got stripped. This was when I lost interest and set it on a shelf. Recently I got a bug to work on it again, so I mixed up some Tamiya paints from the small jars and sprayed it through my airbrush. The result was much better. This kit has the best chassis of any K100 kit out there, but the cab is terrible. I have never had such a hard time getting a cab together. The door hinges are poorly designed and difficult to work with. The headlights are too large and look out of scale, but it is too late at this point. New pics will be coming shortly.
  6. Oh no! That yellow log truck and blue Pete are two of my all-time favorite build! I hope you are able to repair them back to their former glory!
  7. Very cool! We didn't buy anything from them until the early 80's, and even then we only bought 10 or so trucks. After a 2 week vacation, I managed to get most of the small details finished. Still a few details under the hood that need finishing up. I couldn't resist taking some outdoor photos though.
  8. Thanks Tom! Yes it did come from there, how did you know?
  9. Made some more headway on this one. I have have the hood pretty much finished. I had a company make me some dry transfer emblems for the sides of the hood. I am glad that they sent me a lot of the, as I went through about 20 of them to get them on the hood. The interior is in the cab and the exhaust is mounted. I made a 3D printed exhaust heat shield to match the one from a real General. I think I need to make another upper standpipe for the exhaust, as I guessed on the length and this one seems a bit short. The air filter straps were detailed using aluminum heating duct tape. I still need to finish up the "fiddly bits", the mirrors, wipers, steps, intake plumbing, etc. A few lessons I have learned so far for the next time I build one of these kits: 1. I will assemble my own chassis 2. I will not assemble the chrome pieces onto the hood before paint. It was a major paint to try to paint them with Molotow on the assembled and painted hood and I am not super happy with how they came out. 3. test fit the hood and radiator before final assembly, I had interference issues and had to shorten the radiator slightly.
  10. I have always just soaked the parts in some water with a little dish soap for 3-4 hours, never have had any issues.
  11. That is odd, I wonder what the difference is. I have that issue when I use Molotow in the pen form, but never when airbrushed. I do not use any primer or base coat with the Molotow. The wheel with the black hub is a Moebius kit part with kit chrome, the wheel with the blue hub is an aftermarket resin piece sprayed with Molotow (no primer or basecoat). That resin wheel has been handled by tons of people, I leave it on my vendor table at shows as a sample for people to pick up and look at (I sell cast parts). It is a little worse for wear, but it still looks pretty good in person.
  12. I have airbrushed it onto quite a few pieces and have never had any issues handling it. Let it dry for a couple days and I just handle the parts with bare fingers, no fingerprints or anything. Alclad rubs off very easily, so when I am going for a more muted shine, I prefer Spaz Styx due to the durability. Personally I have not been overly impressed with what I have seen of Alsa chrome.
  13. As the available companies become limited, it may be worth looking at other options as well. I don't typically like using super bright "kit chrome" parts on my builds, so for most parts I prefer Spaz Styx or Alclad. However, I know that a lot of people like a very bright chrome look. I have found that spraying Molotow chrome through an airbrush gives very good results. It is as bright, or sometimes even brighter than kit parts.
  14. Interesting. Which material from Shapeways was this printed with?
  15. I was able to put some paint and decals on the cab. It is good to take pictures along the way, so the lighting in the picture shows me that I need another coat of paint on the sleeper. I am glad it is not on a part that already has decals! The engine and radiator are in the frame. I still have to finish up the details like radiator hoses, etc. For the interior I went with 50 shades of gray (actually just 4 shades). It is pretty plain Jane, but these Generals were not very flashy on the inside. Once the paint dries some more, I can tape it up and spray the grille surround and other accents with Molotow chrome.
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