Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Cool Hand

Members
  • Content Count

    753
  • Joined

  • Last visited

3 Followers

About Cool Hand

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 12/18/1975

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1:24

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Australia
  • Full Name
    Luke

Recent Profile Visitors

8,709 profile views
  1. Excellent work on the seat. Progressing along very well and capturing all the detail as you always do on all of your builds Kurt.
  2. Like the stance, looks just right. The wheels fill the arches nicely.
  3. Nice work on the scratch building, good use of spare parts and certainly looks some what like where the inspiration come from. Done well Ray.
  4. As always super clean work Bruce, you sure do know how to build great looking model car no matter what the subject is. Well done mate.
  5. Agree with Roger looks good with the silver and black combo. And think similar to Anton, really like Camaro's something about the shape.
  6. Could use the wheels up front and put something else on the rear, like steel wheels with slicks.
  7. Added a few more pieces to the roll cage. Needed to mod the ends of the dash to fit around the cage. Got a bit carried away removing material from the dash ends and will need to tidy up the fit, bit loose. Few mocks with the body on.
  8. Ah yes thanks for that. Thank you very much Sonny Appreciate you following along Philippe. Thanks Appreciate the compliment JC. Learnt to form the cage inside the body and against the roof from Remote Control drift car builders.
  9. Find styrene easier to work with and glue.
  10. Shaped the 2mm styrene rod then fitted and taped to the roof. After checking position added more rod to join the two halves together. Cut flush with bottom edge of rocker panel. Removed. Test fit in the tub. Measured bottom of frame to top of floor, about 7mm. Marked 6mm as 1mm will go into the floor. Cut Placed the cage in the tub and put body on, positioned cage and marked location. As mentioned 1mm of cage legs will locate in the floor so the body need's to come down more, as seen in this pic. So needed to drill holes in the floor 1mm deep to lower the cage and become permanent locaters for the cage. After removing tub from the body, needed to correct cage position. Used some styrene shapes to make location holes a bit more accurate. 2x2mm square rod 6x4mm 1.2mm Location a bit more accurate. Drilled a pilot hole. Drilled out to 2mm. Test fit. More will be added to the cage and shown next update.
  11. Last thing done to the trans tunnel, filling under side with epoxy. After curing will sand smooth. Moved on to the roll cage. Prepared the inner roof Cut down the glass to allow for a closer fit of the cage. Tape of to prevent possible damage. Removed glass locater pins and smoothed out a bit. Started by roughing out with some 1.6mm aluminium filler rod. Used flat nose plier to bend. Centred the rod. Measured roof for the width of the top. Transfer to aluminium rod. Bend to suit. Measure distant from roof to door top. Bend. Shape adjustment. Benefit of using aluminium, easily adjusted and holds the shape. Test fit to check width in the tub. Repeated process for the front. Transferred shape of the hoops to cardboard, used this as a guide when shaping the styrene rod. After roughing in the aluminium rod, re made with 2mm styrene rod.
  12. Thanks Anton always appreciate you commenting. Glad to know the build can inspire, also hope it can motivate you to work on your own builds. Thanks Rodney, Most people would not have the time, to do a build thread like this one. They would be too busy working and living. LOL! Thanks Atin appreciate you following along. Dont know if its a master class, just sharing the process. Thanks Andy. Yeah the sump is on backwards, not concerned about it. But will entertain your critique and say the pump will fit under the front part and the pick up has been modified and extended LOL!
  13. Continuing on from after the tail shaft, Attached the cover panels between the wheel tubs to the floor plate. Flipped over the tub and set the chassis frame in place and traced. Using the Dremel with a carbide burr. Opened up the end first, then cut the floor. Test fit. As mentioned will use this part from the kit Checking out how to adapt the kit section of the tunnel. Needed to raise the kit section, cut 2mm wide strips of 1.5mm. And attached. After raising, each end needed to be extended. Started at the front, cut a strip 8mm x 1.5mm Cut, glued and shaped. Then positioned and using a piece of 2x2mm transferred the fire wall angles. Top section first. Side vertical. Angle to the floor. After cutting realized the top was too low, so had to split and raise front edge. Shaped the front and moved on to fill the gap at the back. Rather than try shape a piece to fit, found some square solid that fit. Had to cut 2 pieces to fill the width of the tunnel. Shaped and test fit, not attached. Still requires final shaping and prep. Once the trans tunnel is finalized, will move onto some roll cage work which should be in the next update.
  14. Been very fortunate and learnt a lot from others over many years and being able to transfer some real world skills into scale builds helps a lot along the way.
  15. Another 63 build thats going to be well worth watching the progress. Should indeed be a freaky looking thing. After you chopped the rear section of roof, cant help but notice it would be an excellent project for a ute conversion.
×
×
  • Create New...