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Cool Hand

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About Cool Hand

  • Birthday 12/18/1975

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  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1:24

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Australia
  • Full Name
    Luke

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  1. Well done David. turned out great. Can see you enjoyed the process of building a 30MM and coming up with a custom paint scheme. Look forward to seeing the next one you build.
  2. Its great as they are half the asking price of kits sellers else where in Australia. But they only get them in every now and then, maybe once a year and you have to be quick because of people like me that will buy 3 or 4 of each kit 😄
  3. Interesting colour selections. Its a very rewarding experience reassembling these kits after paint seeing all the colours come together. Look forward to seeing the glamour shots Under Glass
  4. Dug the last of the cheap Aldi kits out of the stash.
  5. Similar to what the Steve's mentioned. Sand both surfaces with 320 or 400 grit and use CA glue. It will create a stronger bond and more solvent resistant than white glue. Also the benefit of using CA, it will act as a filler between both materials which can be sanded flush eliminating the join line for a cleaner look. Also if you want to get the body back to clean bare plastic, dip a cotton ball in Mr Leveling Thinner and wipe over the body it will get rid of the remaining primer. Might take some time and a few cotton balls but worth the effort imo.
  6. Sometimes idea's lead to finding a style of build I like, which can get out of hand. Dug another kit of the stash, also another cheapy from Aldi. Again using same wheels. Mini T's, but I previously forgot to mention I used 1311 DZs tyre. And once again after a couple hours the undercarriage detail was sacrificed to get it nice and low. Not as cool as the Camaro. But I like it being different. And yeah, one more kit planned to be built the same style, more on that one soon.
  7. Thanks, I always try to make sure my pictures are clear, clutter free and in focus. Nothing special for lighting, the room I build in has dual overhead 1200mm L.E.D light batten's. Complete over kill for the size of the room, but I set it up that way so I would not need bench top lighting.
  8. Camaro body prep work just about done, few spots to sort out. Usual scribe work done, also shaved and smoothed out.
  9. So as always when idea's get the better of me, I dig a kit out of the stash and start the process of sussing out the idea. Purchased a few of this particular kit cheap from Aldi and I still cant believe they sell kits every now and then. Have been wanting to do a 70's style Lowrider for awhile and thought these wheels would suit. After a few hours of some serious mods to the undercarriage the stance is close to where im happy with it. Im not concerned with chassis details, this build is all about the top side visual. Still need to adjust and finalize the wheel center positions, also the track width will come in a bit.
  10. Black paint jobs are done with a rattle can. 64 Nova thread has some info.
  11. Pretty much got all the sanding prep work done, applied another check coat of surfacer. Showed up a few small spots that will need sorting out. But overall not bad for the first go around. To do the first round of block sanding, 600 wet and dry paper is used wrapped over a rubber block which is a cut down eraser. Using a firm block helps flatten the surface without creating troughs . On panels that have a curved surfaces, a closed cell foam block is used. Its firm but will conform to the shape of the surface. After the block sanding is done on the larger surfaces, I change over to foam backed sanding sticks by Dspiae to get into the nooks and crannies. Dspiae have some excellent sets available. Variety of thickness, thin can be folded over to get into corners and thick can be used on larger surfacers. Also use Infini sanding sponges for final finish wet sanding,
  12. Looks like the paint can hasnt been shaken enough. Polished TS-11 over black surfacer.
  13. Well its been a minute, I finally decided to get back to this build. First part of prep work I like to do is to scribe and deepen the door lines and trunk lines. Also I like to scribe around the window trims. I use a 0.15mm scribe for the doors and trunk and 0.1mm for around trim The benefit of applying a check coat of black surfacer is that you can see whats been done as you are doing prep work. Few slips here and there, but no big deal. Easy to fix the deeper gouges by filling with some CA glue before moving on to next step. Also you might notice the inside of the wheel arch's have been thinned with a Dremel drum sander. And the door handle locating holes have been filled with styrene rod. Using 400 grit wet on a rubber block, the rocker panel trim, peak moulding, rear wheel arch and door moulding trim was all removed. Also removed the scripts on the front guard. And obviously the mould lines on the roof etc are also removed during this first round of sanding Next step will be to block sand the remaining parts of the body with 600 grit wet.
  14. Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated. Removed the bodies from the paint stands and done a mock up, definitely need a change of wheels and stance adjustment on both.
  15. Speaking of black paint jobs. Got a couple more bodies painted today.
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