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    Liverpool, England
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    Steve McNally

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  1. Lorry! You dont even hear that over here nowadays. Real blast from the past.
  2. A few other little things. Made a handle for the sliding bogie out to f aluminium tube, crimped the ends flat. Also the bracket out of ali sheet. Using discarded bits of angle and plastic tube I made the gladhands and electrical socket. Quite pleased with the result.
  3. Time to make the deck. I'd bought a pack of what we'd call lolly-ice sticks in GB, would that be popsicle sticks in the US? I sifted through finding the straight ones in both axes and squared them at then end, then cut the narrow filler sections. Got it all to fit but every time I moved the thing a piece popped out. What to do? I laid some duct tape across my large set square and transferred the pieces onto the tape, starting in the corner and working out to keep everything square(ish). Then I trimmed the tape leaving a single piece of decking for each run. I sanded each section of deck to get it all uniform, and then installed each section. Now I can remove them for painting without any messing around.
  4. Wonderful job, great looking combo. Could I do one in 1/32 I wonder 🤔
  5. I've got a few things to do before paint but I'm torn between black, which seems to be the modern colour, and a brick red, not quite red oxide but not a bright red.
  6. Project creep at its finest but what a great job you're doing with it. I've never seen one of those before.
  7. Had a second bite of the cherry this week. I desperately wanted to get the headboard sorted as soon as. I scoured the interwebs for examples of headboard setups. I used 2.5mm square rod as a frame for the stock card. I made a basic flat headboard then added some 45 degree wings with the end pieces of the frame acting as a final location for the side rail. I also cut 1mm slices of round tube to form the rear light bezels. I'm still over the moon with the way this build has gone.
  8. Gave attention to the rear end today. Fitted a rear section of the bed perimeter and added stake pockets and tie rail. Fitted corner pieces to the bed, as well as rear light fittings and mudflap brackets. Added electricians tape mudflaps, Mansfield bar and brackets. Fabbed a central panel with the three clearance lights. I honestly can't believe that I've built something that looks so correct! It sits just right, it's all square and straight! Probably one of the best purchases recently has been an aluminium mitre box so I can cut square sections and 45 degree angles accurately, it's really helped today. Next time it's the front end. I need to build a headboard and front crossmember.
  9. That's a proper truck that. Looks great with the Freightliner chassis. Does the Detroit fit under ok?
  10. Although I had reservations about adding the stake pockets and tie rail at this scale an American flat just doesn't look American without them. So, I opted for a deeper side rail to accommodate it all. Then I cut 28 little sections for the pockets and a rail and painstakingly located it all using templates made from coffee stirrers. However, as I had planned my width on having plain rails I had to take 3.2mm off each end of every crossmember. That was scary but I managed it. I also had to raise the ride height because of the deeper rails, I just added a strip under the main rail. Overall stance is just right in my opinion. I'm thinking of using coffee stirrers for the bed.
  11. Thanks Brian, sorry for not responding but I didn't notice you'd commented. It's really just a stopgap so I can bear to look at it on the shelf until I can get to it properly. I've got so many projects on the go now and I'm so slow at my work nowadays.
  12. Colours 🤔 I was thinking red with white wheels, though most steel framed flats appear to be black. Black would hide a multitude of sins but I think red looks great on flatbeds. Definitely not silver because it's not an aluminium unit. Had quick look tonight, made a gearbox for the landing gear out of three layers of card stock, so I could get the seam down the middle. Then fashioned a winding handle out of copper wire adding a little piece of the wire insulation back on at the end for the handle, or should that be handle-handle? Not bad.
  13. Added all the crossmembers for the deck. Had to do each one in three pieces, on the real thing they punch holes through the main members but that was not happening. Bit of preparation setting up some wooden jigs meant that I could get my cuts pretty much the same, just a little fettling required with a file. Taped a side rail on to see what it looks like. I'm quite pleased! Landing gear works well. I'm pleased to say it actually looks like a trailer! The small AMT tyres look better too with the proper spacing between the axles. I have to admit, I did back Kermit the KW up to it and picked it up. I remembered that feeling as the fifth wheel flattens out as it slides under the hitch plate. You're never too old... Got to do the ends now. I'm going to build a headboard for it. Will try and mimic a Trailmobile rear end setup too. I've thought about the stake rails on the outside but if I did them accurately they'd be so fragile they'd break, so I might think of doing them in a solid rail and see if I can fool the eye.
  14. Finished building the tandems, added the air tank and track rods, on the track rods there's an adjustable one and a fixed one on each axle. To me it looks an utter shambles but it's the best my fat hands and middle aged eyesight can do. I can't seem to cut or file anything straight! Fitted the axles which was a bit scary because I wanted to rectify something that taints the Trailmobile van trailer for me. Because the wheels and tyres are smaller than scale, they look too far apart at the scale axle spacing so I wanted to bring them closer together. The AMT spacing is 8mm at the tyre tread; I settled on just under 6mm for the right look. Seems to have worked when you put them side by side. Fabbed landing gear using the 'extended' legs from the Monogram Fruehauf van. By using hollow square tube I can make them operate too. Still to do the reduction gearbox and winding handle.
  15. Thanks for the kind comments gents, but as usual with me it's one step forwards two steps back. The ride height was far too high so I took a few measurements and found I could drop the subframe between the main rails, as I've seen on some trailers. I cut the siderails of the subframe into L shape rather than a box section, then I cut out the inner flange of the main rails so the tandems can sit inside. Drops the suspension by 4mm but makes a big difference! I was terrified I'd ruin it but all went perfectly! I canstill slide the tandems, but I won't because I love the "bridge law" stance.
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