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About Brutalform

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 02/24/1966

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  • Location
    Wilkes Barre PA
  • Full Name
    Tom Andrukaitis

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  1. I know I really shouldn’t be starting another build, especially when I have ten already started, and also have built fourteen other T Bolts. But since I went through all of my parts, and decals, I have enough parts to build this car, without buying anything. I built this car years ago, (pic) when I just started back into the hobby, and it’s not the nicest looking car. So after removing the mold lines, deepening and darkening the panel lines, and modifying the hood, removing all emblems, and priming, here goes another Thunderbolt build.
  2. Wow, I hope the are not discontinued. I recently put in a special order at my LHS, and the jars I ordered arrived in a couple of days. I’m running low on the Aluminum Plate, so I better get down there to see if it still can be ordered. He can pull anything up on his computer and let me know right there if it’s back ordered, or discontinued.
  3. Looked super bad in primer, even badder in paint. This is coming together very nice.
  4. Maybe it could be the size of the part, now that I think about it. The only problem I encountered with primer under the metalizer, when I have a floor pan, and fuel tank primed, if I cover the primed fuel tank, the primer gets chunky looking underneath ( not very smooth looking). So if that part is primed, I’ll usually use a Vallejo air acrylic instead. I never really primed smaller engine parts to begin with, so I’m not sure if they would act like the same way, possibly because there is less area to cover?
  5. I prime the body, and all of its parts. I prime wheels, if they are resin. I also prime ALL resin parts also. Many engine parts I usually do not prime. Reason being, is I like to incorporate the use of MM Metalizers. Whether it’s the buffing or non buffing type, the magnesium, and aluminum plate, gun metal, etc, all look fantastic when brushed onto engine intake manifolds, and exhaust manifolds. And the metalizers work best on bare styrene, as compared to primered parts.
  6. Looking good. Nice choice on the front rims. Great idea. Never thought about the Comet wheels. I love this kit. I’m currently working on the Belvedere l myself.
  7. You don’t see too many of these around, especially built as nice as this one. Beautiful work.
  8. When I intentionally remove decals I use a piece of scotch tape, and they come right off in one swipe. So I’m pretty sure masking tape would most likely do the same.
  9. That’s good to know. I was thinking about picking up the Pontiac SD. Isn't there a problem with the front grill also?
  10. Thanks Bill, You are more knowledgeable than I am. I noticed that you really have to dig deep for info in these cars, being close to 60 years old.
  11. Very nice work as usual Steve. My love for this car went up a notch after visiting Chrysler’s at Carlisle a few weeks ago. When I was doing a little research, they actually referred to calling this a “non letter car”. I really love those Mopars, but they are probably, in my humble opinion, the most confusing when pertaining to building a correct, or almost correct car.
  12. Thanks Bill, I might take you up on that, all depending on which route I want to go. I don’t even have the kit yet, but fingers crossed.
  13. I hear ya. I wish the glass installed from the inside on them. I spent about a half hour pre fitting the windows on the 65 Plymouth I’m working on. But then again, Moebius has more pros than cons, and that’s a good thing.
  14. I did a quick search, and from what I found I can go with a 383, or the 413. Where did you find the manifold Steve?
  15. Yea, Bill, I’m not too worried about the interior, but I could change my mind. Especially if a resin caster had that 413 cross ram manifold available. Then I’d probably want the correct interior.
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