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Everything posted by Brutalform

  1. Super sharp build. Everything looks perfect.
  2. I’m driving my 2014 Maxima, with 58,000 miles, Ive had the fluid changed as recommended. My old 2007 Maxima also had one, which was well maintained as well, and when I traded it in for my 14, it had over 100,000 miles. The ONLY reason I traded it in was because the 14 was a leftover and I saved $10 grand right off the sticker. Plus my trade in, so in short, I bought a new Maxima for less than a new Altima with a four banger would cost. I hear Nissan merged with Renault, and their CVTs are made by JATCO, and are supposed to be junk, but I don’t see it. I don’t drive my daily drivers like I drove the drag car, but these Maximas still put a smile on my face every time I mash the pedal.
  3. I’ve often thought about this myself. After looking at the stash, I notice the Nickey Camaro is a level 5? But then I look at some cars that I know first hand are more difficult to build, with a only a level 3. Take the 55 Pro Sportsman kit. IMHO is definitely aimed at to a more advanced builder. When I built my first one, I wondered how can this be a level 3? I was thinking to myself what would a level 4 be like? But if IIRC, there really wasn’t anything higher than a 3 at that point. But I believe Bill summed it up. You put someone in charge, behind a desk, and sometimes they don’t even have a clue to what’s what. Probably the case here.
  4. I had to chime in on this, as I just viewed the video last night. First of all, as someone already stated, he ruined a 64 Comet. In my opinion, he ruined it the day he started building it. That POS cost $208 grand to build? I’d build a Pro Mod with that kind of Capitol. Brakes outdated and ready to fail? Check! Harnesses installed for looks only? Check! Throttle sticking? Check!! And the final kicker is, the morons went on YouTube and told the world, how negligent they are, and now there is a video to prove it!!! Just the last piece the lawyer of that poor family in the SUV they smashed into will need to prove his case, showing how he knew the car shouldn’t be driven, let alone stepped on. And to wonder why I’m becoming a misanthrope?
  5. Now it’s time to glue them onto the frame with some thin liquid cement. When dry, a little dab of CA glue should hold them further. As soon as I get the braided lines cut and put together with the fittings, I’ll start to get everything in primer.
  6. After slipping the rings onto a pin, I can hit them with some fine sand paper to clean them up further.
  7. After every cut, I like to make sure I clean up the plastic junk at the end of the tube before making the next cut. This will make cleaning up the small rings I’m cutting a bit easier before adding them to the frame.
  8. I decided to use an appropriate sized Evergreen tube that my fuel line will fit through. Be sure the end is square, so it fits against the bridge in the mitre.
  9. I got a little time in at the bench today. I only got a little bit done. I wanted to work on the fuel system. Adding an electric resin fuel pump out back. I’m going to use Pro Techs braided line and fittings from the tank sump, to the pump, and also under the hood to the carbs. But under the length of the car will be the flexible NHRA approved fuel line. I marked the frame with a sharpie every few feet where I plan to add mounting spots for the flexible line.
  10. I can help you out with the 60 Starliner stuff. I have several bodies and other parts left over from the kits I stole the chassis from. Lmk what you need exactly.
  11. Yea, his stuff is really nice. Found a pic from another build. Ignore the glue on the upper belt. I did that belt over after I used too much glue and it leaked out.
  12. And don’t forget a quality plastic welder. I do believe the Tenax, and Pro Weld is no longer available, but, the MicroMark, and Plastruct will get the job done.
  13. Probably a little easier to just post these pics of my supplies. Besides the tube, and rod styrene, the strip styrene in the first pic comes in real handy at times too. Some brass and aluminum rod, and tube, also is useful for making driveshafts and attaching wheel backs etc. I totally agree with Greg on having a few things you might need sometime, than not having it.
  14. Superb. I KNOW the work that went into this build. Job well done.
  15. Your builds are so nice and clean, and correct looking. Beautiful job on your foil work. Every part of this build looks perfect. Nice job.
  16. I use Pro Techs racing harness. I try to keep several on hand usually. The material Charlie provides is white, smooth on one side, and textured on the other, so it’s super easy to color it with a sharpie to any color you desire. I highly recommend them.
  17. Thanks JC, but stick to your technique that you posted on your tutorial on how you make your cages. It works much better than what I was trying to do. I ended up removing the two top bars, and bending them before mounting them to the side bars. I really should have just done that from the start. What was I thinking? I’m just glad the windows, dash, package tray, and door panels all fit nice and tight.
  18. Thanks everyone. Wish I could get more bench time in though…
  19. Whenever I’m using any kind of plastic welder, I like to slip something between the work area and the roof panel, to avoid any drips ruining the plastic. Now after these are fully dried, I’ll bend the bars to fit along windshield pillars, and around the dash. A little cleaning up around the joints will be done right before primer.
  20. Taped the dash in so I know the bars are not going to interfere with it. Also notched the rear package tray to allow the bars to pass through. With the side bars, the armrests had to be removed from the door panels.
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