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TimKustom

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    Tim Kolankiewicz

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  1. I absolutely second this. I've used this stuff for years and love it. This and litho plates (I have several unopened packs from my days at the print shops) are my go to for really nice thin aluminum. Back on topic: Bob, absolutely love how this project is coming along. Totally referencing much of this to thread to build my own version. Stay tuned...
  2. Wanted to share a project I've just started. WIP's have always been a challenge for me because of how I progress (or often digress). But I'll give it a try with this one. A new challenge for me is to illustrate it in video. I hope you will check it out because this one should get interesting. Let me know what you think!
  3. Solid effort happening here, love the seat! Certainly watching 'cause I want to try out one of these Roadrunners when they come back out.
  4. Looks like another well planned project from the ADL workbench. Will be watching!
  5. Congrats to her! Hope this is the start of many more!
  6. Nice pix! I had somewhere to be in the afternoon and couldn't enter. Did get some great deals from the vendors and I shot a little video when I was there. Hope you enjoy.
  7. You sir, are a wizard. Enough said.
  8. Wanted to share one of my recent models. This began as a Revell 1/24th scale 1970 Roadrunner. That kit has a somewhat simplified chassis and the body proportions look a little weird to me as well. I thought a good way to fix that was to combine it with one of the best 1/24 scale kits ever made, a Monogram (now Salvino) ’80s Nascar. The idea would be to build a car that used a race car chassis and could also be registered and insured to drive on the street, much like the Roadkill NasCarlo. It was finished as sort of a barn/field find project. A small hurdle of this conversion is that the Roadrunner has a 116” wheelbase and the Nascar chassis is 110”. There are two ways to fix that, you should be able to see which one I chose. I had a lot of fun time building this one and put together a couple of videos showing how it was built if you wish to see what went into creating this model in more detail. Thanks for checking it out!
  9. I can sort of agree with this subject title. I think too many people watch videos of others using hardware/big box store paint. I say stay with hobby paints because it is formulated for plastic models. If I use other or automotive products for a higher quality finish because with proper prep, they simply can provide a finer/longer lasting finish and those are typically airbrushed in a very controlled environment. I don't have time or the desire to strip paint. I don't find that fun at all. I rather spend a little more money and use a product that provides proven results. Anytime the products I use have done me wrong is when I know I did something wrong, typically from applying them too thick. The following models were built during last weekend's 24hr build and started/finished within the allotted time frame. The Firebird and the E-tron used Tamiya aerosol paint. Both models had three paint "processes" that also included masking over previously applied paint. A dehydrator was used to speed the paint process. No primer was used. My brother used Testors (produced by Rustoleum) "Purplicious" Extreme Lacquer which was purchased from Hobby Lobby on the following build. Sprayed in the back yard (62° low humidity) over bare modern AMT blue plastic. It actually looks much better in person. The following Mustang was completed in 4 days and is painted with Tamiya TS-49 aerosol over bare Revell white plastic (same as Firebird above). Sprayed in the backyard (65° low humidity). The can was heated in a dehydrator. Two light coats, two wet coats. All about 20 minutes apart. Roof masked and painted the next day TS-14 black. No polishing other than a quick rubdown with Novus #2. None of these would ever win any "best paint" awards, but they should illustrate decent results can be achieved while using products designed for plastic models with no primers involved. I also suggest the plastic you are painting be is a smooth as possible (finished to at least 2000 grit) or sand marks will show. My Bottom Line: Leave the hardware store paint for lawn furniture (and put a towel down if you decide to sit on it).
  10. Great creativity and execution! The Studebaker Boat is very impressive.
  11. Super fun subject matter and excellent photos! Great job!
  12. Thanks so much for nice comments! I hope I can get half as many built in 2023, but you never know... With proper planning, quality supplies and proven techniques you'd be surprised how quickly a nice model can be built. Maybe that is a future article? Glad you all liked them.
  13. Like everything about this build, especially the grille and the engine. Job well done.
  14. Looks like a lot of work there. Great job!
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