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About TimKustom

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  • Location
    Bonita Springs, FL
  • Full Name
    Tim Kolankiewicz

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  1. That will be a fun one to wire like that. It can be done when you are very careful and have patience. First start with a quality wire. I recommend the Detail Master wire. I've used them all from every aftermarket to Radio Shack strapping wire. Detail Master's is the best as it was custom made for the model car hobby to be in scale. Next, as others said you probably want some photo etch wire looms. Get those from Detail Master or Model Car Garage makes some nice one as well. So on to getting the wires on the engine... You will need to drill out where the wire starts and where the wire goes. It's best to have the holes as deep as possible and of the correct size so the wire fits snuggly. After that is done, now it's time to get the wire straight. Pull it between your fingers and rotate it. Once it is straight, use your exacto to cut lengths longer than what you will need. Then in the case of the Testarossa, start at the distributor and glue them in (superglue or 5 minute epoxy), making sure they stay as straight as possible. Once the glue is dry, slide on the looms. Now it's time to bend the wire. Start with the one closest to the distributor and carefully bend the wire to the shape in your picture. Then cut the length so you have enough to put into the hole you previously drilled into the cylinder head. Thread it into that hole. If its snug, you likely won't need any glue. I like clear enamel for this part since it sets up slow and will hold without showing. Repeat for each wire. Use the exacto and fine tweezers to keep everything lined up. It takes practice and perseverance to do them real nice. Don't give up if it's not perfect. Just try to make your next one better. Hope this helps! https://www.detailmaster.com/products/dm-2360-wire-looms-1?_pos=3&_sid=8f5c7aa0d&_ss=r https://www.detailmaster.com/products/dm-1103-red-detail-wire-0075-2ft?_pos=10&_sid=7ca100220&_ss=r
  2. Thanks. The engine has a Latham Supercharger with manifolds to run the 6 carbs vertically. I have a pic of the 1:1 setup somewhere. Paint is Alclad Candy Yellow over Gold Base topped with LMG "Super Gold Pearl" & fogged "Orange Accent." Old thread is here: Some of the in progress pix aren't showing up. Trying to locate them.
  3. I'm not Bernard, but a see-thru image like that typically involves a tripod and being careful not to move the camera or model. Put hood on, take pic. Take hood off, take pic. Put both images in editing software (i.e. photoshop) and layer them with the hood on pic on top. Adjust the transparency of the hood on pic to the level you would like to "see though" it. Magic! HTH, and looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
  4. Built this one several years ago, the second in my roadster series.
  5. I REALLY like this. Very creative and kool build!
  6. Congrats Claude! That is an awesome model that is dripping with detail. Very well deserved!
  7. He frequented the GSL's for many years. I believe he placed every time he went except maybe once. He typically build factory stock or box plus. I have a few more of his models that I will share in the future. Thanks for all the wonderful comments. Glad you all enjoyed story as well.
  8. I recently finished this model and thought I would share the story behind it. It was started by my good friend Eric Hight. He passed away in 2017 and those that knew him would likely remember him and wouldn’t forget him. I remember him telling me about all the detail he was putting into it, every line, hoses with clamps, etc. all researched as he would do. This model was to be his entry into the 2003 GSL common kit class for the AMT 1962 Thunderbird. He spent a ton of time working on the interior using all of the photo etch that is included in the Model Car Garage detail set. He went so far as casting the dash, door panels and console to have several copies “just in case.” He went even further by opening up the grille to fit the photo etch grille and casting that as well. All chrome on the model was sent out to be replated during that time. He also told me he had the Rangoon Red lacquer made for it and it was polished to perfection. Shortly before GSL-18 he was doing final assembly, and hit a road block. The chassis, interior, windshield, and body assemblies would not “snap” in place how they should (step 5 in the instructions if you have the kit). He tried cramming it, but that slightly chipped the paint and other parts started breaking loose. I remember him calling me about it, cussing the model. He was an expert modeler and he told me this model got the best of him. So he threw it in a box to never be seen until after he passed. When I received the box, it was in pretty rough shape. Serious dirt accumulation and many parts were missing. The engine he told me about all with the detail was gone as was the rear axle, and the front suspension was all busted up. The good news was the interior was mostly complete (only missing the front seats) and the body was still in good shape just needing a throughout cleaning, polish, foil touch up and some missing photo etch bits replaced. I got a donor kit for the missing pieces and got to work building an new engine and worked to match the level of detail with the donor parts. The rear seat had to be repainted to match the replacement front seats but I chose a finish that was close to what was there. While rebuilding the chassis, I made the front wheels poseable. An extra detail I think he would appreciate that I don't think he had originally plan to include. I also think he would have approved of swapping the original tires for the narrow white walls now available in the AMT tire packs. Much like him, it tested my skills to get it finished. But there's another story behind this model… About the same time Eric started his build, my wife and I were at a show and she picked up an AMT 62 Thunderbird only this one was the pre-painted example. I thought that would be a great “first model” for her since it had a lot of pieces and it would get her accustomed to handing and glueing a variety of small parts. If she could get through this one, she would be prepared to paint a simpler model next. She managed to get it together without too much trouble and it still looks pretty good today. Eric and my wife got along great and enjoyed sharing discussions about building their T-Birds, even though Eric had to admit defeat with his. I think he would approve of them they sitting side by side today.
  9. Nice job with that cool kit. I have a '65. Hope to move it up the building cue line soon...
  10. Thanks for the comment. There isn’t really anything special about the metal finishes on the model. All are from Alclad and I used their Chrome, Dull Aluminum, White Aluminum, Polished Aluminum and Magnesium to various degrees. All are applied per the instructed on the bottles. Surface prep is key using their products, I try to finish all parts with 6000 grit polishing cloths to make sure they are smooth. I’ll go into more detail about how the wheels are painted since it was a somewhat complex process. First they were airbrushed Alclad Dull Aluminum. Then I applied AK Interactive’s Engine Wash to the centers and stippled it in with a Q-tip. Next Uschi Chrome Powder was applied to the outer rims to simulate that part being polished. The separate 6-pin hubs were painted Alclad Polished Aluminum and the knockoffs (sourced from a Accurate Miniatures Grand Sport Corvette) still have their satin plating. The tires are painted Tamiya TS-82 Rubber Black then shaded with crushed oil pastels and a wash for the tread. Hope that gives some insight your question and thanks again for everyones humbling comments.
  11. Just love this build. The record player is too much!
  12. Awesome modern take on a vintage Charger. Spoiler works well with the rear stripe.
  13. Nice build! The fender trick is certainly an improvement. Great details all around too.
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