crowe-t

The AMT kit's body isn't all that bad. Other than the side bulges the overall shape looks good. This build above by Can-Con shows how good this kit can look with a bit of work to the sides. Can-Con did an excellent job modifying the sides. The Monogram is nice but the roof is a bit too high and not sloped right and the front headlight area is too flat. The Revell snap kit's roof is too rounded. Overall I like the AMT body best.

I think the stance looks great! Beautiful build!

Excellent job on the sides! It's a beautiful build!

Recently Jim H. posted pictures of the incorrect and correct bodies side by side. Maybe he can give some insight as to the accuracy of the lower half of the body.

I just sprayed the sample on a small piece of styrene so it wasn't obvious if it was less hot. Mine and your friend Rob turned me on to Gunze lacquers and thinner. I also use Gunze Mr. Super Clear that I decant and add some Mr. Leveling thinner in my airbrush. The Mr. Leveling thinner worked perfectly in the PPG lacquer. I'm glad it worked since I didn't want to use automotive lacquer thinner. The PPG lacquer is already a hot paint.

I sprayed a sample of Bob's Paint today and thinned it with Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner. It worked nicely. I didn't think Gunze thinner was strong enough for PPG auto lacquer but it works. Does the Gunze thinner make the PPG lacquer less 'hot'? I also sprayed a sample with Rust-Oleum lacquer thinner that I use to clean the airbrush and it didn't spray as smooth or as glossy.

Bob, The color on the Porsche 911 Carrera looks great! The finish looks very smooth. I didn't think Gunze thinner would be hot enough to work in automotive lacquer. I have Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner so I'll give it a try.

Bill, That looks great! Did the epoxy yellow over time?

I'm currently finishing an AMT Ford Econoline van. The only thing I haven't worked out is the interior rear view mirror. On the real Econoline van the interior rear view mirror is mounted on the inside of the windshield. Has anyone mounted a mirror on a windshield in a model car/van? If so what type of glue works best? Any pictures?

I had tried Klean Strip and it didn't spray that smooth and wasn't glossy at all. I know it has to be polished but it's nice if it goes on somewhat glossy so in tight spots and crevices where it's hard to get into it won't need to be polished. I'll give the Rust-Oleum lacquer thinner I have a try and I might try the automotive lacquer thinner from Tamco which is most likely similar to PPG.

Does it go down smooth and glossy with the Hardware store lacquer thinner?

What lacquer thinner will work for Bob's Paints? Bob's Paints are actually PPG Duracryl lacquer but I can't find PPG lacquer thinner. I'm also trying to find a lacquer thinner that isn't too hot. I can get a quart of lacquer thinner from Tamco Paint for $12 but I haven't tried it yet. I've tried Tamco's Urethane reducer but it's a hot solvent. Urethane reducer can be used to thin lacquer but Tamco's isn't the best for plastic models.

Was there any of the body color misted on or just all primer?

Thanks guys! I'll wait a couple of weeks before I polish the paint. I'll post some more pictures soon.

I started painting the body. The paint is Gravity Colors Ford Brown Metallic with Gunze Mr. Super Clear airbrushed on. The inside was painted and cleared first so i masked it off before painting the outside. For the emblems I applied a light coat of body color over each emblem and a light coat of clear. I then applied the Bare Metal Foil and cut it in as if I was doing it after it was all painted. This way I wasn't painting over too much excess foil except in the middle of some of the lettering. After this I painted the body the metallic brown color. After each coat dried for about 30 minutes I used Tamiya pointed cotton swabs dipped in lacquer thinner and removed the paint from the foil. I applied Mr. Super Clear right over the whole body, emblems included.