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I did some more work on the interior. I attached the photo etch door handles and window rollers I got from The Model Car Garage. The small Oldsmobile symbols on the door panels are PE keychains in the 1966 and 1972 Oldsmobile 442 PE sets from The Model Car Garage. The fire extinguisher is mounted on the roll bar as well as a roll bar pad on the horizontal bar behind the front seats. I got the roll bar padding from Pro Tech. I glued in the boxes on the transmission tunnel and the MSD box under the dash board. The 5 point harnesses from Futurattraction are now assembled and installed and the roll bar and seats are glued in. I attached a picture of one of the front seats showing the harness from my friend's 442.

When using Alclad Gloss Black Base ALC-305 does it need to go over primer or can it be sprayed straight on the bare surface? I'm going to spray some resin wheels with Alclad Polished Aluminum.

I tried this technique of holding the air brush still and spinning the wheels and it worked. I glued some styrene rods to the back of the wheel so I could spin them. They were sprayed with light gray primer and then Alclad Aqua Gloss with Alsa Easy Chrome on top. The light gray primer helped give them more of a polished aluminum look.

I finished the steering wheel. The decal on the horn button is from a Revell '85 442 kit. The K&N air cleaner is painted with a Testors Acryl Insignia Red and Aircraft Interior Black mix. I applied a black wash over it. The filter was then masked and I sprayed the edges black and then sprayed Alclad Aqua Gloss over before spraying Alsa Easy Chrome. The bolt on top is made from a 1.5 mm hex rod. The wheels were airbrushed by rotating them and keeping the airbrush in a fixed position. This helped keep the finish smooth. They were sprayed with light gray primer and then Alclad Aqua Gloss with Alsa Easy Chrome on top. The light gray primer helped give them more of a polished aluminum look.

I applied the 1/64" black thin stripe decals next to the wide stripes on the hood and trunk lid today. I also put some 1/64" black stripes down the sides of the wide stripes to take care of any imperfections caused by the masking tape when I painted them. I put some small black decals in the rears of the quarter panel side scoops.

Thanks Scott!

Thanks David! I should be able to start painting it in a week or so.

I masked the side molding to spray some black in the channels. When I apply the Bare Metal Foil I'll leave the black in the channels showing like the real car has. The wide stripes are painted and I sprayed some gloss clear on the body and hood. The thin stripes along side the wide stripes will be 1/64" stripe decals. I might also run some 1/64" black stripes down the sides of the wide stripes to take care of any imperfections. I also need to put small black decals in the rears of the side quarter panel scoops.

How long after I spray clear on a body should I put it in the dehydrator?

I re-built the rear floor where the fuel cell is. I had the 1mm x 1mm frame glued in and it was hard painting it. I cut it all out and made the 1mm x 1mm frame and fuel cell separate. They'll be glued in after it's all painted. I painted the floor/chassis Testors Acryl Aircraft Interior Black. The floor has flat clear and the 1mm x 1mm frame, rear end and transmission crossmember has a mix of semi-gloss and gloss clear. I also misted some of the mix of semi-gloss and gloss clear on the frame. The sheet metal under the 1mm x 1mm frame is painted with Alsa Easy Chrome over white. I sprayed the Alsa Easy Chrome a bit thicker so it doesn't look shiny like chrome and gives more of an aluminum look. I put printed gauges and bezels from The Model Car Garage on the dash and tach. Last night I started masking the hood and trunk lid stripes. The wide stripes will be painted and the outer thin stripes will be 1/64" wide black decal stripes from Microscale.

I had sent some files of Sci-Fi ships from the 1980's TV show V to someone to print in resin and he did a terrible job. The parts weren't cured so they were sticky and soft and warped. I don't think the guy knew what he was doing. I mentioned this in a post in this thread on August 9th. I'd still like to have these printed in resin but I don't have the space for a printer in my apartment. Is there anyone here who can help with this?

What does the Tamiya transparent yellow and orange work best over for a gold anodized look? Silver, chrome?

Yes this is a big help.

That's how my parts feel. They feel like rubber but feel firm. I washed them but they still feel like rubber. I'm going to put them in the sun and see what happens.

I sent some files to a guy to have printed in 3D resin. Some of the parts I received feel sticky. The parts all feel rubbery and are not hard like regular resin. Is there something wrong?