[[Template core/front/global/utilitiesMenu does not exist. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
  • Announcements

    • Dave Ambrose

      Board Status   07/20/2018

      Maintenance completed, but there is still more come.

crowe-t

Members
  • Content count

    1,245
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About crowe-t

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1:25

Profile Information

  • Location
    New York
  • Full Name
    Michael
  1. It is dried but it's still a bit soft. In my experience lacquer usually dries a bit harder. I was able to handle it within hours after the clear was sprayed on. I thought it would cure harder than it is.
  2. I sprayed Duplicolor Paint Match Gloss Acrylic lacquer Clear on a resin laser pistol prop(from the 1985 TV show 'V'). I sprayed the clear on about a month or so ago. It's still a bit soft and not hardening too well. Could it be since it's been very humid here in New York? Is there anything I can do to help it along? Perhaps hit it with a hair dryer a few times. It took over 15 hours to mask off all the gray areas to spray the black so I really don't want to strip this one. When I was priming it I had to use some Isopropyl Alcohol in the area with the yellow tape. The tape is covering a clear acrylic rod. The rod broke free and I had to use an Epoxy for plastic to glue it in. The alcohol caused the acrylic rod to loosen. So to avoid all this again I'd rather not strip it.
  3. Aoshima Aventador SV

    Is the clear coat mixture you are referring to, the clear to hardener ratio? So for semi-gloss it's 4 parts clear to 1 part hardener?
  4. This is a cool looking monster truck!
  5. Does anyone have a Johan 1964 Cadillac Deville Rear Bumper? I can actually use 2 of them.
  6. Poor quality BMF

    I contacted the Bare Metal Foil company and explained the problem I'm having with the adhesion of the BMF I have and they never responded. I just contacted them on Facebook and got an immediate response. Facebook seems to be the way to go.
  7. Thanks for the nice words! I thought about it but to make it realistic the sliding door would have to slide and I'm not sure how to do it realistically. The rear door hinges would have to be made larger to work and I don't think that would look right. Looking in the windows shows the whole interior so I'm OK with the doors not opening.
  8. Great job so far! This kit later became the Daisy Duke CJ-5 kit. This MPC kit has the name of the Jeep as CJ-5 which was the civilian Jeep. The military version is M38A1.
  9. Thanks guys! I started making the inner window frames for the 2 front doors. As soon as those are done I'll post some pictures.
  10. Great color and engine detailing!
  11. Thanks Terry! I thought about making the driver and passenger inner doors unfinished but I like the Chateau interior and styling so I think I'll just leave those and put carpeting in the front under the 2 seats. The rear will all be painted the body color.
  12. I've been wanting to build an AMT Ford Econoline for a while now. When I was a kid I had the Vantom Econoline kit but this was before I started building models. Some of my sister's friends tried putting it together but it was a mess. I wanted it to look like it did on the box but it was white plastic and didn't get painted. Back then, in the '70's a neighbor had a 1976 Dark Brown Econoline. I thought it was the coolest van. It was the 1st time I saw one of the 'new' style Econolines. I was used to seeing the older Chevys, Dodges and Fords with the flat fronts, the motors inside and the bus size steering wheels. My neighbor's 1976 Econoline had a hood like a car and the steering wheel's size and angle was very car-like. At least that's how I saw it back then when I was young. I was in love with the new Econoline. This build is going to be similar to my neighbor's Econoline but not exact. His van had silver bumpers and stock wheels and hub caps. This build will have chrome bumpers and turbine style wheels. My neighbor's had a sunroof, a tire mounted on the rear door with a cover and tear drop windows. The interior wasn't finished off. It had all the studs showing. I remember I was fascinated by the unfinished interior. It was something I hadn't seen till then. Back then none of the vans in my neighborhood had custom finished interiors. It was a nice dream but not a lot of people could afford to have a finished interior. This build will represent all those vans that had sunroofs, cool looking side windows, tire covers, nice wheels but never had a finished interior. I started by removing the molded in pedals and scratch built a set which includes the parking brake. I straightened out the rear of the inner driver and passenger door panels. I don't know why they are angled in the kit. The details on the door panels aren't too sharp and don't include arm rests so I added some details. The indentation for the license plate was too shallow and not angled so I removed it and added some angled pieces on the sides and set it in a bit deeper. I layered .5 mm styrene sheet to make the inner sliding and rear doors. For the top of the door frames I used three .5 mm pieces of styrene glued and held in place inside the body until they held the shape. It worked nicely. I added the various studs and the spare tire support to the inside of the body. They still need some refining but so far I'm happy with how they turned out. I made a spare tire/cover and mount for the rear door. The holes are made for the tear drop windows and I scribed in the rear vertical body seam where the quarter panels attach to the rear section. I've been working on the ride height and the sunroof and will post more pictures soon.
  13. 1/25 AMT '77 Ford Cruising Van

    The Cruising Van also comes with the roof rack, porthole windows and the spare tire for the rear door.
  14. Splash Paints LLC Order

    $12.99 for 2 ounces is very reasonable. When will the $12.99 custom color be available?