It would be great if Round 2 could get an original 1968/69/70 MPC Charger Annual and have it scanned to re-create tooling for new releases of the annuals. The current General Lee kits' body is starting to break down. There are a couple of areas missing plastic, i.e. - around the passenger side fender wheel opening and the front top of the driver side fender. In addition the details on the body aren't as sharp anymore not to mention the door scoops aren't correct. The rear window was 'fixed' back when ERTL owned MPC for the Fast And The Furious release, however it's not correct. The rear window is too small and basically a rectangle. It should be larger and curved at the top. If you put the MPC Dukes Charger next to a Revell 69 Charger the rear window really looks badly shaped. The 68/69/70 body in the original annual kits was far superior and in some ways even nicer than the Revell 69/69 Chargers.
Beautiful build Tyrone! Red is my favorite color for a 66 Chevelle. Nice touch with the overspray on the chassis. BTW, were the chassis rails on 66 Chevelles black like this or is that an added touch? Mike.
I'm definitely not putting any clear coat over the BMF. This is my first time using it so I wanted to know what was the best method. I have Bare Metal Foil I picked up a couple of years ago. I have it stored in the refrigerator since I read that was good for preserving the adhesive. The question I have is: How sticky or rather how durable should the BMF be when it's applied? Should it be nearly impossible to remove? Or as long as it sticks it's OK? I'm hoping to be able to use what I already have. I applied some on an interior part and it seems OK although I had to re do a part that didn't stick as well. I touched the adhesive side too long on that piece and some of the adhesion went away. The rest of the pieces seemed to stick very well.
Steve, I've been tossing the idea around regarding spraying the clear over the BMF but will most likely clear first then apply the BMF. I never heard of it oxidizing and was only thinking the clear would protect it. I hadn't thought the clear coat might not stick to it too well. Giving some of the problems I've encountered with painting so far I think I'll play it safe and apply the Bare metal Foil after the clear is sprayed. Mike.
Which setting solution is best on decals that are applied on lacquer, specifically Testors Custom Lacquer System? Is setting solution necessary? BTW, I'll be spraying Testors Ultra Gloss Coat over the decals.
Back in the '80's when I was in my teens I used to spray car bodies with enamel paint. The enamel sprayed real smooth and glossy. I never had a paint job with orange peel. I used whatever cheap enamel I could find. I did use Testors enamel a couple of times and it sprayed beautifully. The Testors Custom Lacquer System seems to need a lot of time to cure and while this is happening it's not to durable. Real auto lacquer might be a better alternative since it cures faster or enamel could be the way to go.