crowe-t

I picked up a can of the Duplicolor 1K Clear Extreme Gloss and did some tests. It sprayed better out of the spray can. I decanted some and sprayed it with my airbrush and it didn't spray so smooth. I even used a few drops of urethane reducer and it still went on bumpy. This is the good part. The down side is it has a distinct yellow tint. I noticed the yellow on the spray cap where some dripped and when I decanted some it was yellow in the cup. It really shows over white paint but doesn't show over a color although I'm sure it changes the color. It also takes much longer to cure than the 48 hours or so it says on the can. I really like that it sprays on smooth out of the can with little to no orange peel but it's yellow. I also tried KBS Coatings Diamond Finish Gloss Clear in the spray can. I got very similar results as I did with the Duplicolor 1K Clear Extreme Gloss. They are almost the same clear. The KBS clear says non-yellowing but it's already yellow. I'm going to stick with the Gunze Mr Super Clear lacquer I've been using for several years. It's clear in the cup when I decant it and it goes on clear over white. I decant and airbrush it but still get orange peel that needs to be polished out. That's with all clear lacquers.

Thanks again for the nice words!

Thanks Mike. My friend really built a nice car. I want to try and capture it the best I can.

Thanks Mike. I'm having fun building this one.

I worked on the stance a bit. Here is where it sits now. I think I'll go with this.

Very nice! What type of wire did you use for the master cylinder?

It sits real low. I'll most likely have to notch out the chassis rails to get the the exhaust to sit in closer for more clearance.

This is a very cool build! Your friend did real nice work on the body. I'm sure he's looking down on this build and enjoying all the work you are doing. The 55 Pro Sportsman chassis is a much better choice than the Dobbertin chassis. I'm currently building a Beretta Pro Street kit. The kit's (Dobbertin) chassis needs a lot of work to make it resemble a real world chassis. If I was to start the build again I'd most likely use the 55 Pro Sportsman chassis instead of the one in the Beretta kit. For the framework inside your doors have you considered using styrene rods? Gluing the styrene rods together should be easier than soldering the brass rods. Keep up the great work on this.

I started making the exhaust system. The headers will attach where the green lines are. They'll be cutoffs where the red arrows are pointing. Behind the mufflers they'll be short pipes that bend out in front of the rear tires. The mufflers will be Flowmaster 40 series.

Thanks Steve! I've been usng Gunze Mr Super Clear for a while but I'm thinking of giving Duplicolor clear a shot. Does the Perfect Match lacquer clear reduce down a lot over time? In my experience clear lacquer reduces down a lot over time.

It looks real good! What made you change the color to white?

Tom, thanks for the compliment and for taking the time to read through my thread.

Thanks Scott! I have a Futurattraction B&M Pro Stick I'll be using in the interior.

Not at all. I understood exactly what you were saying. I really appreciate your kind words.

I'm doing what I can to make the chassis more realistic for drag racing/Pro Street. It's what it is. Revell was trying to maximize profits by re-using this chassis in the Beretta and Corvette kits. It would have been better if I used another chassis but I wasn't planning on doing all this and I started having fun with this one and kept making changes. Once it's in the body it should be convincing as a Pro Street chassis.