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Kmidd65

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24 & 1/25

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  • Location
    South Carolina
  • Full Name
    Kirk Middlesworth

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  1. A handful of pics from yesterday's show. Unfortunately, no longer have my Fotki so cannot share all.
  2. Frank and Team, wonderful show yesterday! Had a great time at the show and swap meet. Found a few extra gems for the hoard and was able to reconnect with some folks I have not seen in years. Really appreciate all your efforts and the VFW to host this event. You did great and glad to hear the vendors had a good day as well. Folks if you missed this show, definitely plan to attend in the future, it was a lot of fun.
  3. Thanks Frank, answered my own question on the other post about this show.
  4. Super nice job as usual, Wayne! 👍
  5. Interested in attending this event, I am just over the border in SC. Is this a swap meet only or is there also some type of model car show/display? Thanks for any additional information you can provide.
  6. One of the nicest builds of that particular kit I have seen. Nice Job!
  7. Really like this! Super clean work, Nice Job!!
  8. It took some testing with plastic spoons but here is what I do. I sand and prime the plastic surface with 600 grit and prime, same as I would for any other enamel or lacquer paint job. For the craft paint, I use the Rustoleum 2x primer with no issues. I have even used the Walmart Colorplace flat white and black enamels (if you can find them) as a base for the craft paint. I prepare my craft paints using a custom made reducer (Denatured alcohol 10%, Eagle One clear window cleaner (clear) 10%, Distilled water 80%, and some glycerin drops (Walmart Pharmacy area). I also add some of the Pledge Floor Finish (Future) to the craft paint mix to promote adhesion. I then spray multiple color coats and dry with a hair dryer (heat off) between coats to the desired color consistency I am after. I usually airbrush with a Paasche H (medium or heavy tip) or Iwata Neo gravity feed. I then let the paint fully cure about a day before I clear coat (right out of the spray can). This method produces stable results in that I can wet sand before more clear coats (few days drying time before sanding) or mask for any secondary paint coats. I have also been able to clear coat these craft paints with automotive grade acrylic lacquers with no issues! Actually for this Olds, the rims were all shot with craft paint. The red went down first as explained above and then sealed with a couple coats of the Acrylic Lacquer. I then shot a couple light coats of Apple Barrel black craft acrylic paint (Walmart) but thinned it with Auto windshield washer fluid (Blue) instead of the custom reducer. This paint is more delicate so that I could gently scrape the redline outline on each wheel. The finish to seal all of this was Testor Gloss Clear Lacquer so that it would not react with the vinyl tires over time.
  9. Appreciate the feedback everybody! It was definitely one of those perseverance kits! You are correct Chris, Rustoleum 2X on this one, I would like to try a 2k clear some day. Yes, craft acrylics work with some practice. This is my second Nascar model using them (check out my Winn Dixie car back end of last year for a two-tone craft paint job). The biggest hurdle on this one was getting the body to snug down over the chassis and get the wheels tucked into the body. This seems to be common with the AMT Olds and Lumina kits. I snipped off the front axle pegs and got rid of the metal axle (rear) and epoxied the wheel backs straight to the disc brake pieces. I should have ground down the front wheel backs some to get a better tuck to my eye. I also had to grind the chassis pieces some to help get the body to fit better (attached picture). The other pain point (for me) was getting the back glass to fit. I sanded my first piece too much where I snipped it from the sprue and had a large gap! Thankfully I had a spare kit to try again. The other problem with that piece is there is a lip along the bottom edge that sits inside the trunk, under the lid. That lip would not allow my trunk lid to sit level so if you study the pic where I have the fuel cell, you will see where I removed it on my build. The kit was a challenge but was impressed with the kit decals for the most part. If I was to build another, I would omit the 76 decals on the front fenders. They do not fit well and detract from all the filling I did (front end) and custom decals to mimic the look of Bobby's real car. Give it a try, they come together with some extra work and attention.
  10. Bought this AMT Olds kit at a swap meet 10 years back and started to build it out of the box for a Nascar group challenge. Did not realize the problems I would encounter so lost interest and it had set unfinished on the shelf since that time. Was at a recent contest where somebody had finished one of the Lumina kits of this same vintage. Was inspired to give my Olds a go one more time and here it is! Mostly box stock, kit decals with some extras from Powerslide and other Nascar kits. Paint is CraftSmart Acrylic Neon Yellow with Rustoleum 2k Clear and a finish coat of Pledge (Future) to protect the decals. Build has some flaws but I am happy with how it finished out!
  11. Kmidd65

    Brett Bodine

    Sweet Taurus, really like it!!
  12. Kmidd65

    Rudd Tide Lumina

    Really nice job, so happy you stuck with it. Especially like the paint! Acrylic craft paints and an airbrush open up great possibilities due to the mixing of colors and easy clean up! You are brave using those kit decals. They really went down nice. Certain your dad will be thrilled. Thanks for sharing with us!
  13. Looks great to me! The front suspension on that kit always gives me issues. Thanks for sharing with us!
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