Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Scale-Master

Members
  • Content Count

    4,020
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Scale-Master

  1. My stat camera was obsolete for a long time before I disposed of it. Yes the industry moved to digital output, but long before then the art was generated by computer then printouts were converted to film. I was one of the first to incorporate computers for making decal artwork for kits back in the 80's. I no longer use photo-resist coatings (still have them...) because I figured out a way to eliminate the need for films and exposure to the resist. No longer having to do the "photo" processes saves me a full day of tedious work.
  2. Thanks Guys! I refer to it as acid etched because it isn't photo-etched. It is a different process in the resist phase. I used to do PE (I still do art for others), but I figured out a way to make parts with out the "photo" part after I got rid of my photostat camera.
  3. The gas struts for the doors. Upper hinges, acid cut brass. The strut bodies are brass, the shafts are stainless steel. The lower hinges are machined aluminum. Closed. They compress well. Open. They slide smoothly and provide just enough friction to keep the door open.
  4. Also I can't tell from the posted image, but did you measure the widths of the top stripes to see if they taper? The real ones are not a constant width on the top, but a clever illusion of sizing to make them look like they are once applied to the car.
  5. With all your eye on detail Maxx, are you aware the GT350 lettering is not supposed to be the same color as the stripes? Viking Blue and Guardsman Blue were the two colors. If you're OK with them being all the same color I would think the 0.030 thickness difference wouldn't be that be much of an issue either...
  6. That silence sure seems to speak volumes...
  7. Brass tubing was used to make the hinges for the engine cover. More magnets were also utilized.
  8. I started reworking the two rear supports that connect the tray to the rear bulkhead so I can continue working on the hinging of the engine cover. I removed the posts that supported the battery box (used to be a motorized kit) and drilled out the flanges for the spare tire guides. Since they also have suspension mounting points that will need to accept closed ended fittings I had to engineer them to facilitate those parts (that will be made later). The first machined aluminum pieces for this project…
  9. The outer hinges are made of brass and styrene.
  10. Final new part with 1/16 inch steel rod laminated in to it for strength.
  11. The owner/client requested more sponsorship in the way of Scale-Master Decals. Gotta keep the client happy…
  12. The two little plastic parts of the hinges that mount to the engine cover didn't look like they would stand up to too much action, at least at the joint where they would be cemented. Plus I could see they are supposed to be added after painting the exterior, further creating fit continuity issues. The gray pieces are the modified and beefed up kit parts; the rest is scratch-built from sheet styrene. The plan is to make the hinge system stand-alone from the body shell.
  13. I wanted to get the hinge mechanism made for the rear hatch since it's the last part of fitting up the body that needed to be done. I had to start by reworking the rear bulkhead. The rear tray has half of the hinges molded to it. I cut them off and installed a stainless steel tube.
  14. It drove great. There are some magnets in the chassis that might keep it from fishtailing.
  15. Done for a good friend. It's missing a few detail parts that he will have to add; I just painted it and made the graphics. It was already put together when I took it. It's a 1/32nd scale NSR slot car and is very fast. Subtle pearl accents are in the base clear-coat but hard to capture in the pictures.
  16. Thanks for the info and even more so for the offer Pete! But I'm going (at least right now) with the kit pieces, albeit modified. The windshield is actually a stressed member now and helps true up the door frames. Once I make and install the trim windshield I don't think the thickness will be much of an issue. This heavy clear in the kit buffs up pretty nice too. (See below.) All polished out…
  17. Thanks. Even though it's 1/12th, it's not that big. But then I build 1/8th too... The door windows needed to be fitted now that the exterior of the doors were getting close to being fixed. A good amount of reshaping the openings including the corners was done. Since I didn't do anything to the openings until this point I was a little surprised at both how off one side was and how close the other was. I tried not to rework the clear parts, but some extending was required on the bottom edges of both main sections and shaping on other sides. There were also a couple hairline fractures in those parts that had to be repaired too. After I got the windows to fit I seamed the edges with 1000 grit sandpaper then started smoothing the faces with 1200.
  18. The tires were one of the parts I intended to use at the start. I was a little concerned however when they turned out to be Bridgestones instead of Firestones as shown on the box art. What became a larger concern was that they were a little wonky in shape (probably from long-term storage) and there were flaps of rubber material on some of the sidewalls. I put the rims in them to hopefully retrain their shape and that worked well over the course of a few weeks of resting. But when I started to sand the tread to give a scuffed look and remove the mold lines, light colored specks started to show through. They were embedded in the material. Removal would leave a divot or scar, so I applied some dye I use for resin casting and it hid the spots well.
  19. I cleaned up and assembled the other wheels Fraxional "grew" from my files. But I decided to try some other colors for the heck of it.
  20. I started making the shifter and the linkages to connect it to the shift shaft that ultimately feeds into the transmission. All brass, hand filed and soldered. At this point the shifter mechanism actually is functional, but will likely be "frozen" in first or neutral later.
  21. And we have an action shot…
  22. A lot more sanding and shaping was done to the doors and roof after the doors were set in their frames and hinges and reinforced with steel, (way more than the hood received). I added a few thousandths of an inch of material around the windshield and center of the roof and removed and added more elsewhere; as much as .030 was removed (at the bottom of the doors) in addition to what had been done previously. The door panel lines are getting trued up and both doors operate well. All the holes I drilled for threaded hardware have been filled too. Since the primer has been sanded off much of the material used to reshape the doors and other parts is visible. Clearly more work to do… but a lot of progress so far too…
  23. The A-Pillar sections of the doors are inherently weak, and I could see with all the heating and bending some fractures were appearing. They would have broken well before I could get to painting and if they broke it would affect all the fitting I had already done. I bent some .061 spring steel reinforcements that fixed the arc to closely match that of the A-Pillar along the windshield. The left door. The right door.
  24. I started reworking one of the forward bulkheads/core support. I drilled out the duct openings molded into the part and added ducting and supports on the inside so it can be installed without the flexible cooling ducts. The elbows won't be seen when it's assembled, but I didn't want the intakes dumping into an open space. I also shimmed the edges for a better fit.
×
×
  • Create New...