[[Template core/front/global/utilitiesMenu does not exist. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Scale-Master

  1. Lola T-70 Mk III

    Thanks for the info and even more so for the offer Pete! But I'm going (at least right now) with the kit pieces, albeit modified. The windshield is actually a stressed member now and helps true up the door frames. Once I make and install the trim windshield I don't think the thickness will be much of an issue. This heavy clear in the kit buffs up pretty nice too. (See below.) All polished out…
  2. Lola T-70 Mk III

    I pulled this kit from my stash on May 5, 2019; the night we got home from the GSL show. 1997 reissue of the 1970 Tamiya kit. It's been patiently waiting for 22 years in my stash to be built. I've been researching, planning and figuring all month. (Actually I was scheming a couple days before in case I didn't find a dream deal on another Caterham kit during the show/trip.) It will be built as a street car T-70 replica with some modern upgrades.
  3. Lola T-70 Mk III

    Thanks. Even though it's 1/12th, it's not that big. But then I build 1/8th too... The door windows needed to be fitted now that the exterior of the doors were getting close to being fixed. A good amount of reshaping the openings including the corners was done. Since I didn't do anything to the openings until this point I was a little surprised at both how off one side was and how close the other was. I tried not to rework the clear parts, but some extending was required on the bottom edges of both main sections and shaping on other sides. There were also a couple hairline fractures in those parts that had to be repaired too. After I got the windows to fit I seamed the edges with 1000 grit sandpaper then started smoothing the faces with 1200.
  4. Lola T-70 Mk III

    The tires were one of the parts I intended to use at the start. I was a little concerned however when they turned out to be Bridgestones instead of Firestones as shown on the box art. What became a larger concern was that they were a little wonky in shape (probably from long-term storage) and there were flaps of rubber material on some of the sidewalls. I put the rims in them to hopefully retrain their shape and that worked well over the course of a few weeks of resting. But when I started to sand the tread to give a scuffed look and remove the mold lines, light colored specks started to show through. They were embedded in the material. Removal would leave a divot or scar, so I applied some dye I use for resin casting and it hid the spots well.
  5. Lola T-70 Mk III

    I cleaned up and assembled the other wheels Fraxional "grew" from my files. But I decided to try some other colors for the heck of it.
  6. Lola T-70 Mk III

    I started making the shifter and the linkages to connect it to the shift shaft that ultimately feeds into the transmission. All brass, hand filed and soldered. At this point the shifter mechanism actually is functional, but will likely be "frozen" in first or neutral later.
  7. Lola T-70 Mk III

    And we have an action shot…
  8. Lola T-70 Mk III

    A lot more sanding and shaping was done to the doors and roof after the doors were set in their frames and hinges and reinforced with steel, (way more than the hood received). I added a few thousandths of an inch of material around the windshield and center of the roof and removed and added more elsewhere; as much as .030 was removed (at the bottom of the doors) in addition to what had been done previously. The door panel lines are getting trued up and both doors operate well. All the holes I drilled for threaded hardware have been filled too. Since the primer has been sanded off much of the material used to reshape the doors and other parts is visible. Clearly more work to do… but a lot of progress so far too…
  9. Lola T-70 Mk III

    The A-Pillar sections of the doors are inherently weak, and I could see with all the heating and bending some fractures were appearing. They would have broken well before I could get to painting and if they broke it would affect all the fitting I had already done. I bent some .061 spring steel reinforcements that fixed the arc to closely match that of the A-Pillar along the windshield. The left door. The right door.
  10. Lola T-70 Mk III

    I started reworking one of the forward bulkheads/core support. I drilled out the duct openings molded into the part and added ducting and supports on the inside so it can be installed without the flexible cooling ducts. The elbows won't be seen when it's assembled, but I didn't want the intakes dumping into an open space. I also shimmed the edges for a better fit.
  11. Lola T-70 Mk III

    Now that the hood locates to the tub and center body section consistently, I reshaped the surfaces where the hood meets the cowl. I took off a good .030 - .040 of material on the upper surfaces and did a lot of blending. The white is the sheet styrene filler. Not done, but good enough until I do the same to the doors and side pods and center section.
  12. Lola T-70 Mk III

    Pretty cool David! Thanks for sharing! I reworked the lower nose section that holds the driving lights and stone guard for the radiator. It fit OK, but not positively. I used a combination of sheet styrene and removal of some material to make it fit. The junction boxes for the lights house magnets in the hood section.
  13. Lola T-70 Mk III

    That's very kind of you to say Mitch. Best of luck when you take the T-70 plunge. I spent about a half hour removing the supports (like sprues on injection molded parts) and cleaning up the support points on these two rear wheel pieces. There are no mold lines to deal with on 3D printed parts, but there can be a texture on some areas. These did not need any attention in regards to smoothing texture out. The material Fraxional used on these is more like resin than styrene in the way it sands and creates a very fine powder. There is a mild odor, but it's not objectionable. A little paint for the heck of it… I played around with some weathering/chipping techniques to make it look used. I see by the fit of the tire I can go wider with the rim.
  14. Lola T-70 Mk III

    And... If you get a set you can use the provided outer rims as a guide and turn your own from metal. Win-Win!
  15. Lola T-70 Mk III

    The front hood mounting bosses were cut down and holes were milled into them to accept magnets. 1/8th inch steel rods were cut as receivers since a second pair of magnets would create too much pull for that part of the hood. Plastic spacers center the rods in the brass tubes. Driver's side is installed. Magnets were also installed in the rear-view mirror supports at the cowl edge.
  16. Lola T-70 Mk III

    As I mentioned when I shared the pictures of the SW design, these will be a combination of machined aluminum and 3D printed masters. These are just for mock up so I don't have to put the machine time in now. Plus if I decide to sell copies, these will work with the kit tires and suspension without the need for the end user to fabricate anything.
  17. Lola T-70 Mk III

    I received the first set of wheels that Fraxional grew/printed from the SolidWorks files I made. These are 100% raw as delivered. Rear parts on the left and front parts on the right. They are still on the supports and are slated to be used for mock-up only, but I may finish them just to see how they'll look.
  18. Lola T-70 Mk III

    You're welcome Raymond. I've used magnets for quite a while in models, but this one already holds the record for most used in a single project for me.
  19. Lola T-70 Mk III

    It used to take me several minutes to assemble or disassemble even a couple of these parts with all the screws I used to get it trued up and properly aligned. Now with the magnets it only takes a few seconds to completely tear down or assemble all this. And the doors operate. Now I think I'll redo the hood the same way
  20. Lola T-70 Mk III

    To eliminate the screws that fastened the cowl to a pair of brass brackets anchored to the tub, I removed the brackets and made new parts to hold three magnets on each side. Three more magnets were set in recessed holes in the tub and a brass tube was used to help align the set up. The brass tube may or may not stay… This is the right side just behind the front wheel well.
  21. Lola T-70 Mk III

    Thanks! I found the magnets online. The magnetic approach worked so well I went back and re-engineered the side pods to be held in place with only three small screws on the bottom. All the hardware that held the pods to the tub has been replaced with magnets and the screw holes filled in. So before I can finish the doors I need to rework the fastening system for the parts they are mounted to.
  22. Lola T-70 Mk III

    Now that the lower parts of the doors work properly and track consistently with the magnets, I converted the hinge mounting system from screws to magnets as well. This way I won't have to worry about damage to the outer surface of the roof when it is reassembled after final painting. The left side hinges were beefed up and drilled for the magnets. The right side ones still have the holes for the screws. The slots for the hinges in the doors were widened to accept the thicker hinges and also drilled to accept the magnets. The door still lines up like before and I can move on to finessing the fit and shape of the body and doors.
  23. Lola T-70 Mk III

    Thanks for the kind words guys! It may not look all that different from the last post, but a lot more filling and shaping has been done. The left door has been relocated on the hinges to make the top gap the same as the gap on the right door. Both doors operate smoothly and track quite well, and they have been on and off a few times. I started building up the bottom door sill on the left door to box in the magnets and give it a proper finished look. All the door gaps are starting to become somewhat uniform, but it still needs more work…
  24. Lola T-70 Mk III

    Thanks Pete, means a lot coming from you! It is a LOT of work, but it is a rewarding challenge. I added magnets to the doors and inside the side pods. These will end up inside the door sill. The magnets allowed me to solidly and consistently close the doors in the same locations. I did a lot more reshaping and filling and filing. Still plenty more work to do though. But it was also time to check the progress with a coat of primer.
  25. Lola T-70 Mk III

    Then I reworked the right side in a similar fashion as the left. It still needs more work too, but not until I get the left door to this stage. But the right side is hinged.