Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Scale-Master

  1. Thanks guys!

    The OEM versions for my car are about $200.00 a pair, when you can find them.  (I need two.)  There are a lot of cheaper "replacements" that are not OEM.  They look cheap and still cost more than they are worth to me.

    I went with a C6 badge even though mine is a C5.  (I have C6 wheels on it too.)  I can always put the correct badges later on it since they are held on by foam tape, but right now I'm just enjoying my car.

    They should hold up OK as I've used the same materials on other real cars and had no problems.  As long lasting as an OEM?  Probably not; time will tell how long.  The OEM badges often degrade in a dozen years on cars that see sun.  Ironically the inserts outlive the frames.   I have the molds and materials to make more if needed.  Who knows, I may make a different design...

  2. Thanks Mike and Rich.

    I only starting doing my own printing a couple months ago, before then I subbed out my files to a company called Fraxional for the actual printing. 

    The first model I used 3D printed parts on was my Gulf Seven.  (Have been using the processes for my "real" work for years.)

    I had the coil and ignition box grown. 



    This one will have more 3D generated parts than any previous model of mine.  But most of the 3D parts are used as masters to cast resin copies.

  3. The nose emblem on my car "wore out".  (I thought it was speed rated for the car…)

    Rather than buying a new one (or two as the rear one is aged too) I drew a replacement up in SolidWorks and printed it in what turned out to be seven pieces. 


    I had to grow the main body in two pieces due to size restrictions of the printer and I engineered a separate "V" part to reinforce that joint along with locating pins and holes.  (The two ¼ inch holes are for the mounting pins for installation, not shown.)

    The insert parts that were originally cloisonné elements were also rendered and grown as separate pieces for ease in painting.


    Mounting posts were post-machined for a perfect fit to the car.


    All three final pattern parts dry fitted before creating an RTV mold.


    Cast parts fresh out of the mold.


    Finished painted test assembly.  Now to make the two I'll put on the car…


  4. Thanks Trevor!


    I was going to have to adjust the rotor hubs (or make shims) so I decided to mill a new one out of resin stock instead of editing the 3D file and growing a replacement.  This was quicker too.


  5. Thanks Anton!


    The half-shafts are done for now.  The yokes are cast resin (dyed black) copies of 3D parts.


    The shafts are brass acid treated for the dark finish. 



    Each U-joint has four bearings/caps (with E clips) and they work.  The half-shafts telescope too.



  6. I machined tool to make controlling the parting line in the wheel molds easier. 


    It locks into the back of the wheel center like the rear piece of the rims.


    Clay is used to seal one side.


  7. Thanks Trevor.  


    I redesigned the rear wheel to be three pieces like the fronts and restyled the back of the spokes to match too.  This is the raw 3D grown/printed master before machining.




    And after…



    (The black marks are index points for making the mold.)

  8. I had a bit of a setback when it turned out that the platinum based RTV I use primarily would not cure against the U.V. cured 3D resin from the printer.  Even after using the sealing materials that worked as barriers in the past, the molds were not curing and worse than the time loss was it making gooey messes on my patterns. That took many hours over several days to clean up.

    I invested in some tin based RTV and that seems to be the right stuff for this resin. 

    Here are the calipers and one pair of pads I'll use on the car.



  9. Thanks guys!


    The P68s are 1/32 scale slot cars.  The Futura is that odd "box scale".  The others are all 1/24-1/25th scale except the Caterham and the Lola.  Those two are 1/12 and were started with Tamiya parts.

    The Lola and the Caterham will both be at the 2022 GSL.  Whether the Lola will be finished I can't say for sure.

    The Charger has been done for months, got it before it hit the stores, like the Supra and 050 cars...

  10. The U.V. resin is very hard and brittle.  That part did not survive the machining process.

    I started growing a beefier part and realized I could probably machine one from scratch faster.

    I was correct, made this from scratch and the printer is still running.



  11. Once in primer I still was not satisfied so I re-engineered the wheel to be three pieces instead of two.

    This is the new spoke piece as it was grown.



    And then machined.



  12. 23 hours ago, Bernard Kron said:

    Congrats on your second GSL! All these are superb models, but I especially like the contemporary sports racers and the P68s, both rarely seen subjects worth doing. All the best for 2020.

    Thanks, but it is my third GSL Best Of show (fourth if you count peoples choice awards).  There are a lot of cool somewhat obscure cars there need to be models of.

  13. On 1/1/2020 at 12:22 PM, bbowser said:

    Where do you find the time?!  Great group of cars.  Did you do a WIP on the Toyota TS050?  I have that one in the pile to do this year.

    I build some every day.  I did an expanded review on the TS050 before it was released and it was published in Scale Auto.  It's a great kit.

  14. 370Z


    '94 Camaro




    Gulf Seven  (2019 GSL Best of Show winner)


    '60 Chevy Pickup


    Go Kart




    Calsonic R-33


    Ford P68 (Slot car)


    Ford P68 (Slot car)


    '06 Shelby GT-350


    '86 Monte Carlo SS


    '70 Trans Am


    Lincoln Futura


    Coke Charger


    Ford GT (#1)


    Ford GT (#2)


    2020 Supra


    Vega Funny Car


    Lola T-70 (Long term project)


  • Create New...