dougp

Thanks for the comments. If you pm your email I will send you the word file for printing the decals. You just get a set of valve covers and sand them smooth, paint, sand color off the tops and add decals and clear coat. The breathers/filler caps will be your choice. Mounting the wing worked out pretty well. I flattened the fender ridges until they matched up with the wing struts. I not happy with the height and haven't decided how i'm going to modify it.

Art, how heavy is the Pace 30? Is it ackward to move around. Yours is the kind of feedback I'm looking for, Thanks.

Great job, I've always loved this truck.

Chief Joseph, thanks for the link. I had found the info on it while searching the site about booths. We're already picking up the components. As to the filter that was my concern too until I read the individual filter descriptions. It stated the top filter is usually the only one that needs to be changed. It also appears to be made of the same aquarian filter material I used on my homemade booth which you can buy a lot cheaper elsewhere. We mainly use rattlecans. Painting is usually done in short cycles. I had made a booth before from a large plastic storage container at it worked well, just didn't hold up. The laundry room is used because it has a bathroom type ceiling fan used to cycle the house air (newer, very air tight home) and runs for 60 minutes every 6 hours. When painting in the past we would turn on the ceiling fan on for additional venting, but we're thinking about using the new booth in our craft room (converted bedroom), the reason for the concern about the overspray. And thanks for not turning into a discussion about safety. I've been painting for decades and am aware of the hazards and didn't want this thread going south like so many others. Thanks for everyones comments. We're now leaning towards the 30" Micromark.

Link fixed, thanks... Our laundry room only has the washer and electric dryer. Both will be covered and not used while painting. We're aware of all the flammability issues. We just wanted feedback by users of the specific booths. I don't want this turning into a discussion on fire and inhalation hazards like the other threads.

We are finally going to do it. My wife and I are buying ourselves a paint booth. Too much building going on to wait until spring to be able to paint again. We've read through all the paint/spray booth topics and have narrowed it down to these two: The Micromark 15X20 http://www.micromark.com/15-Inch-x-20-Inch-Standard-Spray-Paint-Booth,8034.html Pace 24" Mini-plus http://www.pacepaintbooths.com/pace/ The booth will be used in a 8X8' very well lit laundry room. It will sit on top a dryer and vent into a homemade bucket filter (no easy access to vent outside). Our concerns are: Is there a lot of overspray that escapes from the booth? Does anyone know much do they weigh? We would like a 30" booth but are concern they would be difficult to move. We would appreciated comments from builders who own either booth. We're not going to build our own and the price difference between the two is not an issue. We want this to be our first and last booth purchase, so we would appreciate your feedback and please only from those that own these particular booths or earlier models of each. Thanks for you help.

Sorry Chris, forgot about this build. I'd been watching it but then got busy and missed the updates. Engine looks good between the rails. Keep up the good work.

Thanks for the comments and concerns. I've have over 100 pics of various commercial and custom Topkicks I've gotten off the web for my inspiration. As to the cab height and engine compartment here are couple of 1:1's for comparison. Also my camera creates a fish eye view when I take really close up pics so it distorts the actual dimensions of the build. One of my favorites and one of the cleanest Topkick engine compartments I've found

Update 12/03/12 The work continues, but a little slower this last week. I’m trying to spend more time on the 71 Daytona, my other wip. The water pump was modified to try and match the 1:1. From pics of the 1:1 engine and water pumps the pump has been elongated so the pulley/fan assembly is centered within the radiator/shroud. I used strip styrene to extend the pump and several parts box pulleys for the pulley/fan and crankshaft pulley assemblies. I also had to fab up a taller thermostat housing. The 1:1’s also appear to have a 2 into 1 configuration. So two different sizes of styrene rod were used to make the housing. I lucked out and found a fan and radiator/shroud in the parts box that fit perfectly. The radiator/shroud assembly was mounted to the frame rails using white glue for the mock up. Ultimately I’ll use styrene channel to build the bracing and frame around the radiator like the 1:1. The engine was aligned and the location marked on the frame rails for the engine mount locations. The mounts were made and glued to the rails. With the engine finally in place the mod made to the water pump centered the fan in the radiator shroud. I’ve also started work on adding firewall detail. Holes were drilled for pinning the master cylinder, power distribution box and washer fluid reservoir. The rubber firewall seal for the steering column was cut from the Ford Louisville steering column. It was glued to the firewall and drilled out to accept the new steering column. Next the work on the under hood components and drive accessories has started. The master cylinder was made from a parts box unit with the help from some styrene rod. The power steering unit was made from a flat head v8 generator, parts box pulley and styrene rod and channel. The wire is used to pin the units to their respective mounting points for reinforcement. The alternator is another parts box piece and is currently in the purple pond being de-chromed. Thanks for looking and enjoy.

Very nice, I love fabrication work.

Next I started on what I call the fender spats seen on the 1:1. I used a couple of pieces of strip styrene for the basic shape and attachment. The spats where shaped and fender line added with the use of a file and sanding stick. Next challenge is finding a radiator with a shroud that looks like the 1:2. Next will be locating it on the frame. Right now my plans are to place it between the hood hinge supports. Once I have it place I can set the engine between the frame rails and work on the final shape of the firewall. Thanks for looking...

Update 11/23/12 Everything finally seems to be coming together. With everything in place and aligned I started built the hinges for the tilting hood. I attached two small pieces of strip styrene to the front frame rails to support the tube styrene for the hinges. I attached a length of tube styrene to the front frame rails and supports. Next I reattached and aligned the hood and cab to the frame. I used Plastruck liquid weld to attach each end of the tube styrene to the leading edge of the hood. Using a piece of scrap styrene as reinforcement I welded the center section of the tube styrene to the leading edge of the hood. I let the assembly set up for several hours and then cut tube styrene on each side of the center reinforcement. I inserted a piece of styrene rod through the cut tube assembly. I made the vertical cuts in the lower fenders and the hood tilts forward like the 1:1.

Sweet, very nice.

Great work Eric. Love the color and the detail. Another great finish.

Keep it going. I think the length is perfect.

Very nice, when can you pour my patio?

Now the first mock up of the hood, cab and bed together on the shortened frame. With frame shortened and aligned I can start on the hood hinges. Once I get them in place I can make the vertical cuts on the lower fenders for the tilt hood. Work has started on the rear roll pan. I filled in the area with strip styrene. Once it dries I will use some fine strip styrene to fill the gaps and shape the end caps. I haven’t decided on a bumper yet. I’ve seen a lot 1:1s use just the frame end cap and some with custom bumpers. Either way a trailer hitch will be added. Thanks for looking...

Update 11/15/12 Its been a good week for the Topkick. Finally got everything aligned and shortened the frame by 2" to match the truck's wheelbase. I tacked the frame in place with white glue. Black paint was applied to mark the position of the frame in case it broke lose while I drilling holes through the front body mounts to the interior tub for the alignment pins. Next the frame behind the rear suspension was shortened to match the truck length. Open rear frame rails are capped off.

Thanks for the pics Doc. A lot of great builds and new found inspiration for future builds.

Update: 11/8/12 I've been busy on the Topkick wip, but managed to get some work done here. I found some 1:1 tubular frame connectors for Mopars on the web, so I fabbed some up for the Daytona. I started with strip and rod styrene. Pieces were cut and assembled. Once assembled they were painted Hemi Orange and mocked up on the frame. I'm thinking about using the mufflers and exhaust tips from a 70 Challenger TA. Let me know what you think. And finally the bumper and rear valance were attached and the first primer coat was applied and sanded.

Work on the cab, hood and frame continue. First horizontal cuts were made to each fender in prep to vertical cuts to be made after the entire assembly is located on the frame. The lower part of the fenders that will remain attached to the cab were reinforced and glued to the cab. vertical cuts will be made along the edge of the reinforcements. The fenders were then trimmed even to the bottom of the cab. The short fender extentions seen in the 1:1 pics will be added after the vertical cuts are made. Next, work on the interior tub has started. The hole created by the center console is filled with strip styrene. To even out and level the floor pan for the frame mounts, sheet styrene was added. The front of the interior tub will be reworked to fill in the blank space between it and the firewall. Work on the cab mounts continues on the frame. Once the interior tub is complete, it can be placed and aligned on the frame. Once it's in place I can determine how much the frame needs to be shortened for the pickup's wheelbase.

Updated 11/8/12 The parts I ordered arrived. My thanks to AITMs for his quick shipping during Sandy. The Allison auto trans was too big for my build so changes were made to the kit trans. Using the AITM's trans as a reference for the mods, I cut the tail shaft off and attached a parts box air cleaner to the rear of the trans. I then re-attached the tail shaft. Detail was added to the trans body using styrene strips and rods. The trans was finished in Model Masters magnesium.

Thanks Harry. I'm glad this put a smile on everyones face. I read this on a car forum earlier in the day and it got even better. Someone posted asking information about the performance and mpg advantages of installing a K&N air filter in their car. Immediately the thread lit up with the type of posts this joke makes light (or is it lite) of.

How many forum posters does it take to change a light bulb? 1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently. 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs 6 to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light bulb" Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid 2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "lamp" 15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "light bulb" is perfectly correct 19 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a light bulb forum 11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum 36 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty 5 People to post pics of their own light bulbs 15 People to post "I can't see S$%^!" and use their own light bulbs 7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different light bulbs 4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URL's 13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add "Me too" 5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy 4 to say "Didn't we go through this already a short time ago?" 13 to say "Do a search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs" 1 to bring politics into the discussion by adding that George W. isn't the brightest bulb. 4 more to get into personal attacks over their political views. 1 moderator to lock the light bulb thread. 1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it all over again.

I think he is talking about Sean Stacey Resins, here is his photobucket account: http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z321/sstacey47/ You can email him at: sstacey47@yahoo.coma for a parts and price list. I haven't order from him yet, but his prices are reasonable and follows up on emails.