ra7c7er

The forum was switched to a new server yesterday. that probably has a lot to do with it. Many topics that were posted 2-3 days ago were lost in the move. You will probably just need to resubscribe to the topics you were watching.

I've had no issues since the switch. Speed does seem a bit faster too.

What about all the 1/43rd diecast that are put in the model category.

Was it built to just be pretty and cool or is it actually getting thrown in a drag truck?

Alright try #2. I will start off with the easy answer. An LMP car is just a class of race car. Here is the wiki page about them. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Mans_Prototype On to the other questions. Digital. Digital racing is fun but has serious draw backs. First is the cost. Both digital track and cars cost more and it takes more work and care to keep them in good working order. Also digital cars ARE proprietary to the specific brand. So you lose out on using cars from any other brand than what your track is. You can convert other brands cars to digital but it takes a lot of work to do it correctly and often times requires cutting the chassis or interior. Another thing to consider when thinking about digital is how many people are realistically going to be racing most of the time. If you have 4 or more people racing all the time then digital might be better for you but if you are going to be racing alone or just with one other person you are losing all the benefits of digital. Digital racing isn't all that hard to get the hang of lane changing just requires decent timing. The hardest thing for me to get the hang of was remembering to refuel. I would be in a tight race and forget to refuel. How much track to get (for both HO and 1/32) at first is always a big question and will always be right up until you pick your first set or two. The generally recommended amount to start off with is two sets. That way you get two power bases, two walwarts, extra controllers and extra track right off the bat. Not to mention two extra cars. Then you can expand with specialty track pieces as you design your track. Part of the reason for getting two sets right off is the two power bases and two walwarts. You will want each racing lane to have dedicated power (when running analog) so you don't get the power spike when one car goes off the track. You don't need a huge track to have lots of fun but the bigger the track the faster the cars will go (you always want at least one long straight section). My first track was 10 ft. long and only 3 ft. wide. It was a blast for 2.5 seconds but was so challenging the club I was in actually ran a monthly challenge race on it. It was the smallest race track ever to have a monthly race in the clubs 40+ year existence.

That's awesome. I have been reading about people using dehydrators as paint driers but I don't know anyone that actually does it so I have been a bit scared to try it myself.

Must have been different for everyone. I was on the site around midnight and again around 1:30ish and had no problems. This morning though from 6 on it just said error.

It looks like the MCM server switch ate my reply. Mike, I will repost it when I get back from work today.

Yeah, I noticed that. I am missing messages too.

It's always hard to organize anything done on city streets. Hopefully they get it off next year.

It depends on what you want really. Do you like the bigger cars better or do you like the HO stuff? I raced slots both commercially and in several clubs for awhile when I was a kid with HO and again for a few years in 1/32 and 1/24 when I was in my early 20's actually the only reason I stopped was because my new place doesn't have the space for a decent sized track. If space is no object I would go with 1/32 it is more of an investment but in the end if you want good racing and not just blue blur versus yellow blur it's the way to go. Plus their is lots of cars to chose from everything from LMP to old school rally cars and everything in between. As for track and stuff. I used Carrera exclusively it is a bit expensive but it works for both 1/24 and 1/32 cars and it runs cars of every brand well. Scalextic (which I think is the brand you are saying starts with an E, Eldon is the only "E" names track I can think of but that hasn't been around since the 70's) would be my second choice based on price and availability but the track to me is not as good. Ninco track is just beyond any reasonable price expensive and the only people I know that run that track have more money than sense. I hate to put it that way but I don't see any benefit to Ninco track over the other brands. Also all of the cars work with any of the tracks don't pick a track brand just because you like the cars they have. When I worked at a hobby shop I was surprised by how many people thought the cars were proprietary to the brand and wouldn't work on other track. If you want to go with HO scale I would stick with the Auto world track they don't have the largest line of track pieces but they are the top brand and really stand behind their products. Plus their stuff is available just about everywhere hobby shop wise. When you decide what scale you want to go with or if you have any questions you can either post them up here or send me a pm either way I will help you all I can. www.slotcarillustrated.com is a great place to get more info and ask all the questions you want. You might even be able to find some cheap track there.

I looked all over the site do you have an exact page or is it something I have to just ask about. Thanks.

I use an upside-down cardboard box with "DIORAMA DO NOT MOVE OR LIFT" written on every side. It works really well. I know other guys that put them in clear tubs. The thing with any sort of cloth is if it gets pulled your dio will go to. If it is a fairly simple dio with not a ton of intricate detail you could probably just leave it uncovered and dust it gently every once in a while.

Those are really cool. Is that truck 1/24? I have a couple barriers in 1/32nd scale that are "race used". A resin slot car guy I know used his works 3D scanner to copy a barrier that was hit by a race car at Seibring (i think) and he used that to make a mold the barrier looks just like the real smashed one. Problem is he doesn't make them anymore.

Does anyone make jersey barriers in 1/24-25th scale? I have looked all over and can't find any.

I have continuously tried builds that are way way above my skill level and I often get mad enough to just junk the project. I don't though and just set it off to the side and work on something simple for a bit.

I just picked up 4 ASA cars. Two Camaros and two Thunderbirds. Funny thing is the guy told me they were all open and missing parts. I asked him if the wheels (wide 5's) were still their and he said only in one of them. I decided to try and trade him instead of the 20 dollars he wanted and for a single '49 Mercury kit he said yes to the deal. Much to my surprise when I went to get the cars one of them was sealed and the only thing missing out of the open ones was a single poster that came with the kit. I kept my mouth shut, made the trade, and am sitting here feeling like I just stole from the guy. I even got a extra bonus to while going through the Thunderbird kits not only do they have wide 5's they also come with a nice set of 10 hole wheels too.

Really cool. Looks just like the real thing.

I'm in as of now. It's to far away (time wise) for me to say for sure. Usually places don't care about trading it's money changing hands they don't generally like.

I thought the same way as you. Of course I don't like the aforementioned Steve Martin movie so I would have never gotten the reference. --- As for the Hot Wheels content. I like it. It's something different. Their is a HUGE Hot Wheels club in my area has over 300 paying members compare that to the model car clubs in my area and you are looking at a 10:1 ratio in favor of those little cars. Nationally is small scale diecast more popular than the mid 20s scale nope but around here it is.

Looks really good. The colors seem perfect for the truck.

Amazing model. I'm not usually a rat-rod guy but this one is really cool. Perhaps because it is such a unique subject. Nah, it needs a spare front on one side and a spare rear on the other.

That's really cool. Wonder what made them do it in 1:24. Perhaps they already has some Rover tooling and modifying it was cheaper than making a 1:35th tooling. Or maybe we will start to see more military vehicles come out in 1:24.

Looks really cool a great first attempt. Keep building them and honing your skills. I agree the model companies need to produce a overhead trailer at some point.

It's going to be announced on the Gearz show first then it will be on the websites. Just have to keep watching the show then you will find the winners posted online.