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mr moto

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  • Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
  • Full Name
    Manuel J. Martinez

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  1. I had one of those when it was first issued. It was a lot more fun if you hooked it up to the blower port of a vacuum cleaner instead of personally blowing through the tube but it still got old before too long. It could probably be made into some kind of a futuristic kustom and be more fun!
  2. You can try contacting them at modelhaustires@gmail.com. Can't guarantee that it still works but that was their E-mail at one time.
  3. Model Car Garage has a photoetched version.
  4. Another suggestion for the muffler situation is to tightly wrap it with a narrow strip of masking tape a few inches long or clamp it in a hobby vise to hold it together while you drill.
  5. Plastruct plastic-weld is MEK. The Bondene is methyl chloride as is Flexifile. Some others are acetone based. They all work but have various advantages and disadvantages. For instance, if you use the Flexifile Touch n Flow applicator you can expect the MEK based glues to clog it up. They all work pretty well on styrene but some work better on other plastics such as ABS.
  6. My choice also. It's shiny and stays straight unless you deliberately bend it.
  7. Not too many to show and an odd lot for sure but a good year overall. Here they are and not necessarily in any order. 1927 Model T Phaeton: The Bugsport Avanti: Rolls Royce Silver Cloud: Jaguar XK-120 (1/72 scale) 1956 Studebaker Golden Hawk: Thank you to everybody for looking and supporting my efforts this year past. May you all have a great 2022 in every way.
  8. Thanks for those photo tips, Peter. And huge thanks to everyone who has commented on this build. I think the main thing my photo setup needs is more light. As Pete commented they're underexposed. I going to be looking for some kind of positionable light - maybe something that will clip onto the chair. The one overhead fixture just isn't bright enough for this use. The door lines haven't been highlighted with anything at all. I never have liked the look of putting a wash in the panel lines, etc. Just make sure the lines are deep and sharp enough before painting. The window tint is described in the WIP thread. It's very simple - just a mix of decanted Testors transparent enamels. The recipe is the WIP. But I realize that I left out two things that may be important to the overall result. 1: I give the windows a short soak in Super Clean before painting - maybe 20 minutes - to remove whatever release agent or other gunk might be on there. 2: After they're tinted I dip them in Future. Now you know all my secrets! Pete, what did you use to improve my photo?
  9. Has anyone been in contact with BMF lately? I placed an order for BMF chrome at the end of October and shortly after that their website started showing "out of stock" . I recently noticed that the site shows "In Stock" again so I've been trying to contact them to get the status on my order. None of my attempts by e-mail or phone has gotten any kind of response. Phone calls haven't gone through at all. What's your experience?
  10. It's some of each plus a dollop of scratch building. The body is from R&R Resin but I re-mastered the hood and front bumper/grill assembly and did other needed mods also. You can check out the link to the workbench thread in one of the previous threads and get more details.
  11. I don't know about availability in a kit but the vee angle is 65 deg. Good luck!
  12. We may be outnumbered but I have some ammo socked away for future use!
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