Anyway, that's pretty much it. I'll try and get some better lit pics in a day or so and post them up "Under Glass," but I'm kind of glad to see the end of this thing. More research before I buy another kit, see what works, have a clearer plan, all that. Thanks for looking!
Necroposting my own project. I got tired of this little car, so I boxed it up and stuffed it in the closet for, well, five months or so. Took it back out a couple of weeks ago and decided to start again, then I remembered why I got tired of it. I just don't like this kit, there are a lot of parts that don't seem to fit the way they should, and some of the directions, IMHO, need to be reordered. Attach the chassis to the floorpan, then try and thread the driveshaft in. Didn't bore out the hole in the transmission? Too bad, so sad. I did play around with some Bare Metal Foil equivalent (Hasegawa? I forget, lost the package) with mixed results. I think I'll be using it more in the future, but I've got to study up on the best ways to get it to do what I want.
Anyway, after going through some careful frustration, tonight I decided that I was going to just finish it. Get it done. It could have come out better with more time, I admit, but it was getting to be a chore rather than fun, and taking up too much of the hobby bench that I share with my wife, so here it is:
Lost one of the lenses somewhere even before I could start to assemble it:
A short update before I get seriously to work on this. I'd like to thank the person that originally posted this suggestion, I just can't find the thread anywhere. My kit has these big ugly posts that support the rear trailing arm. It never occurred to me that those were where the coil springs were supposed to be until I saw someone else's kit, so I'd painted them rust.
However, I've got some 1mm solder. 1mm=1 inch, so it isn't for the hardcore purists, but I'm new to this.
I painted the posts flat black (on top of the rust I'd already done). I took the solder (takes about 3-4 inches per side!) and brush painted it Tamiya Flat Red XF-7. It was hot yesterday, and I deliberately didn't let it dry properly. I painted the one piece, put it down, painted the second, put it down, cleaned my brush, and wrapped each piece around its post, then adjusted the coil with my thumbnail. Not letting it dry (I think) gives the paint some flexibility as it's being bent. As you can see, I need to touch things up a bit, but overall, I don't think it looks too bad, much better than just posts.
Thanks Bradley and Dr. C, it means a lot for a newbie like me to hear that! I'm not sure it I'll do a wash or not, but I found on my last project that the door and panel separation lines will draw in thinned paint with capillary action really well, so I plan to do that with some thinned black at a minimum. I need a windless day so I can paint my hood and trunk lid though, the waiting is driving me nuts.
And finally, I did say this wreck was under restoration. Just barely. The driver's side either some small dents or rust that went deeper than just the surface and needed some bondo and primer:
This was tough to do. No airbrush yet, so i tried a bunch of different things. Tried to drybrush gray. Didn't work. Painted gray, and tried to use a wash/thinner to feather the edges. Didn't work. Wash of white on top of that. Sort of worked. Finally, Tamiya Weathering Master Snow (the makeup compact stuff) on top and I got my sprayed edges. It's not perfect, but I'm happy with it. I still have to paint the hood and trunk lid, I may do the hood in flat black, 70's drag racer style, not sure.
Let me know what you think, good, bad or otherwise.
A little bit more. The body was primed in gray under the blue, so I took some 1000 grit sandpaper and lightly went over the whole thing. I left the rough spots I found on purpose, but any area where the gray started to show through, I rubbed some Tamiya Weathering Master Rust onto.
Not insulting at all, it was actually quite helpful, I wouldn't have known that it looked OD without your comment. I went for a year or more before I learned that my favorite green tie was brown, my brown sport coat was green, and one of my gray shirts was actually brown. When I was in the service, my vision was so amazing that they stuck me in a Radio Battalion !
Thanks again Sylvester, I am in Osaka and there's a Joshin right down the road, I'll look into that.
As for my interior. Hmm. The kit calls for flat red and silver, which may be correct but just sounds awful to me. Since this car is more than 20 years old at the notional time it's being built to, I figure I can do whatever I want. My 1:1 '66 Chevy Stepside had Camaro bucket seats (one of which was secured with only one bolt!) and welcome mats on the floor when I bought it in 1988.
I wanted a two tone thing going on, but nothing seems to have worked out right. I'm using Tamiya Flat Blue XF-8 for the darker shade, and Tamiya Medium Blue XF-18 for the lighter shade. Somehow, though, the Medium blue looks greenish to me. Since this is about the fourth color combination I've tried on the seats (blue and white, blue and grey, blue and silver), I think I'm just going to stick with it. Here's the look:
I know it still needs a little touch up, I brush painted it since I don't have an airbrush.
The front fender, however. If that looked Olive Drab, it needed to be fixed. I gave it a wash of Flat White, followed by a wash of Field Gray. This, I think, is the look I want, and I'll probably do something similar to quite a bit of the rest of the body:
No Turtle Wax there! The bondo in the lower corner is Japanese Navy Gray XF-12. Much better, I think.
And a serious answer, part of what plagues me in this sort of hobby. I'm red/green color blind, I can tell the difference (usually), but I have lots of trouble with greens and browns. The fender is Tamiya TS-2 Dark Green, which may well look olive drab, but I just have to go off the label. I didn't really think about whether the factory made fenders in that color, and while olive drab is a problem, not being a factory original color isn't. I'm thinking that this car is sometime in the mid to late 1980s, so that fender probably came off a car that was even more badly wrecked. It's definitely going to be getting some rust on it.
Thanks for the advice Charlie. This model has just been fighting with me. Not the model itself, as far as I've gone, Revell has done a pretty good job but, like I mentioned at the start, this is a work of fiction. None of the colors I've chosen seem to look the way I wanted them to, and nothing seems to come out the way I envisioned it. I know I have a long way to go technically, but right now I'm struggling with the artistic side of things.
That having been said, I'll shoot some pics later and throw them up for advice. It couldn't hurt, could it?