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    Ottawa, Canada
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    Clifford Read

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  1. Eric, That SD looks so fabulous, and the secondary detail (engine, etc.)really tops it off. I'm looking forward to, hopefully, seeing it (and you) at some model shows in the coming year. Congratulations on a job well done.
  2. The '49 Merc is a survivor model from the late '70s......no resin bodies or pre chopped tops back then This Cadillac powered '40 Merc mild custom was done recently by reproportioning and cutting open an old ITC kit
  3. My wife and I have been packing and arranging for a 'downsize move' and with all the packing of my toy and model rooms (2), I've finally been able to, again, get my hands on a few old models that were in cases, but in areas that were difficult to access. The models are all large size.....a Monogram 1/8 scale Jaguar E-type, A Monogram 1/8 scale '65 Corvette Stingray, and a Renwall 1/4 scale 'Visible Chassis'. These models were all painted and built around 4 decades ago, and relatively inaccessible for about 20 years, but I've now been able to digitally photograph them. Enjoy!
  4. I used both cyanoacrylate as well as 5 minute epoxy as adhesives. As for the handlebars, I still prefer using scissor-cut strips of quality aluminum muffler tape instead of the usual hobby foils. To me, it conforms better to curved surfaces and, using a fairly soft toothpick, you can burnish out most of the kinks that would otherwise cause bad reflections. I've been using the muffler tape for decades and ,as the saying goes, "practice makes perfect" I've also had fairly good luck with Alclad chrome lacquer over gloss black. It's only drawback, as with Molitow chrome, is a lack of durability if it gets handled a lot.. Attached is an example of the Alclad chrome lacquer over gloss black on another of my projects
  5. I've had this 1/12 Gunze Sangyo multi-media kit since the late '80s but I finally got around to it recently. Now I'll have to also build its sister kit; the Rikuo (Harley under license) that I purchased at the same time as the Indian, 30 something years ago Paint is automotive basecoat/clearcoat
  6. I've just received this model, purchased from DHS Diecast in Ohio. These limited edition 1/50 resin models are quite expensive but they're also exceptionally well detailed and finished. I chose the green version simply because, to me, the least amount of chrome 'bling' enhances the realism. In their day, these were work-horses, not fancy show trucks. They come with a well finished, sophisticated felt base and acrylic cover During the late '50s and early '60s, the B81 series were Mack's heaviest duty trucks, using the familiar B series cab but distinguishable by the hard front fenders and large diameter wheels/tires.
  7. Hi Bruce. The steam roller is a decades old 1/16 scale kit from Bandai. It's just taken me this long to finally paint and build it.
  8. WOW, Geno!! That's super gorgeous. The interior and engine compartment detail as well as the paint and clean build style certainly does it for me. I enjoyed getting together with you at the final NNL Nationals a little over a year ago and I hope we'll get the chance to get together again sometime in the coming year.
  9. Just a quickie addition.......Vent windows added as well as a trunk-lid hinged prop-rod It seems, I can't leave well enough alone!
  10. '34 Full Fendered 5-Window Coupe (Olds powered) Model A 2-Door Phaeton (Chevy powered) Hino Super Profia 1919 Garrett Steam Roller '40 Mercury Convertible (Cadillac powered) '55 Pontiac Pathfinder (Canadian) Sedan Delivery
  11. Hi Jay, Renshape is relatively easy to shape....it sands like soft wood but without the grain or moisture instability. In this case, I used a jeweler's saw to achieve the very basic form /size, and then used coarse sandpaper followed by 400 grit sandpaper. A bench grinder or a small bench belt-sander makes forming more major projects even easier. There's a lot of dust created, so wear a mask for safety (any fine dust can be harmful to your lungs, etc.). I made the bench seat in the three basic parts , then drilled and inserted short lengths of stiff wire to fasten the back-rests to the main base. The Renshape grade that I use (I got mine second-hand so I don't have the grade specs) is very durable with no airgaps, etc.
  12. I’ve always had an affection for the ‘39/’40 Mercury convertibles….a little longer, chubbier, and heavier than the ’40 Fords, with a lower, softer rear fender opening and a nicely shaped soft top. In the early ‘60s, ITC made a 1/25 plastic kit of a ’40 Merc, but anyone who’s looked at those kits knows that the model is terribly disproportionate with very few useable parts or accessories. It was marketed as a remote-control model with no chassis to speak of and very rudimentary interior and engine compartment. I do enjoy a challenge, and with this ongoing pandemic and time on my hands, I decided to try my hand at ‘making a silk purse out of a sow’s ear’. After spending a lot of time reproportioning the main body, I decided to open and hinge the doors and trunk lid, and build a detailed, longer Merc chassis from a ’40 Ford version. I used stainless wire to form most of the body trim, a Revell parts-pack Cadillac motor (modified with a 3-2bbl intake and a ‘Replicas and Miniatures’ Cadillac air filter), chrome wheels from Pegasus with parts bin tires, and I added my usual fabricated brass rad, an aluminum fuel tank, aluminum strip transverse springs/shackles, polished aluminum exhaust system, and poseable steering front axle. I've even made the wire door handles to turn to open or latch the doors. Virtually every part on this model is either scratchbuilt or heavily modified. Paint is automotive basecoat/clearcoat custom mixed purple over a pearle base
  13. Roger, you have such a clean build style......so impressive!!
  14. Hi Geno, What a cool stock panel van......That's just the way I like to see 'commercial vehicles'. It doesn't look toy-like any more. Good stuff!
  15. My brother and I have wanted to build one of these large 1/8 1956 to 1958 Volga kits for a while, but it was only available in Russia and sold as a subscription of 110 parts packages over a long period of time. Anyhow , an Ebay vendor in Russia was recently selling the complete set of packages unopened along with the 110 magazines that serve as building instructions. The wording is only in Russian, but the illustrations and photographs make it reasonably easy to follow the construction and it's much more pleasurable to have the complete kit of parts all at one time, so we pulled the trigger (it was expensive but the quality makes it worth the high cost). It's taken approximately seven full days to assemble the many hundreds of parts (everything comes painted) and I was amazed at the fit and finish of everything.....screw holes all line up well and they supply extra fasteners (tiny) in case one gets lost during the build. Theres a tiny speaker for the horn sound and all the lights work. I'm delighted with the result, and I find the model (and the real car) quite attractive.
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