Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About traditional

  • Rank
    MCM Avid Poster

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ottawa, Canada
  • Full Name
    Clifford Read

Recent Profile Visitors

9,122 profile views
  1. Bill, you're absolutely correct. I guess I was so eager to get the wheels on the car after about eight long days of assembly, that I never even noticed the tire difference. The construction pictures of the wheel /tire assembly looked so similar that I didn't even read the text. I can only imagine that the full size car they measured for the model development had a different style of spare tire and they went with that. Thanks for pointing that out....the wheels have now been shuffled to be correct (see pics)
  2. Here are a few more pics, including a few detail close-ups. Notice that the quarter-windows (rear,side) hinge open with realistic over-center latches, and the seats are stitched leather over foam pads.
  3. This model usually comes as a two year assembly subscription with something arriving every week or so, but recently they also offer it as a complete kit all at once (delivered by DHL in 5 large cardboard boxes) The painted kit is usually considerably over $1,000 but there was a super sale on this item during July 4th and my brother and I decided to share the effort, and we pulled the trigger. The kit goes together very nicely using the original 100 magazines as incremental instructions, but the wire wheels (fabulously accurate looking) took a whole tedious day each. Anyhow, we've completed the build, and must admit, the finished model looks quite real. It goes together with an electrical system for all the lights ,etc. but I have yet to find and install the correct batteries to check that detail out.
  4. In the late '60s when I was finishing college, I'd seen a few of the Fiat 850 coupes running around Toronto and I even thought I might buy one as my first car as soon as I found reasonable employment. I've always liked small cars, and I thought these were so nicely styled. Luckily, I'd changed my mind by the time I had enough money to actually purchase a car, because from all reports, the Fiats at that time, although really cute, were simply not durable enough for Canadian roads and climate. I've always harbored a fondness for those 850 coupes though, and I was delighted when Laudoracing introduced their 1/18 resin replicas of the 1968 version, and I think they've done a really accurate job. I've mounted the model on the base of a display case which is not supplied with the model.
  5. Jurgen, That is simply fabulous. One of the things that I always appreciate about your models, besides the excellent proportions, is that you don't get carried away with excess chrome plating. They look like they would have looked new at the time. Congratulations!
  6. Actually, thats exactly how the model comes from Replicarz. The only changes that I made were hinging the engine hood, toning the wheels to look more like clean magnesium, and detailing (and modifying) the engine compartment. Replicarz makes two other versions of the Scarab as well, and in all cases, the body proportions and paint finishing are quite beautifully done. It's really only the engine compartment that is a disapointment.
  7. I think that the Reventlow 1958 Scarabs were one of the most beautiful (and successful) sports racers ever and I've wanted a model of one of them for years. I was delighted when Replicarz recently decided to do one (actually three different versions) in 1/18 scale. Like many limited volume models now-a-days, this one is done in resin but with an open engine compartment. That engine compartment was the only serious disappointment with this beautiful model since it looks absurdly disproportionate and bland. It's supposed to be a Hilborn injected small-block Chevy but the Replicarz version of the motor is overly simplified (considering the price) and the Corvette valve covers are unfortunately about the size of a Chrysler Hemi. The model's engine hood is a loose separate part. I decided that, since this is the only Scarab game in town, I would modify mine to be more detailed and proportioned, as well as front-hinging the engine hood. I also decided to paint the mag wheels to be a bit more representative of clean magnesium (a slightly more grey-silver with a touch of yellow/gold) rather than Replicarz plain silver. I then chose to use some more accurate knock-off spinners from the surplus parts tree of a GMP 1/18 Hot Rod kit. The Replicarz Scarab version that I chose is the one bought and raced successfully up until 1961 by Harry Heuer (driven also by many other successful drivers, including Augie Pabst for its last win in 1961) and sponsored by the Peter Hand Brewing Company. I fabricated hinges for the loose engine hood as well as correcting lots of engine detail Replicarz' Chevy engine is quite basic and way off in proportion including absurdly oversized Chevy Valve covers I've added the correct small-block Corvette valve covers with the added breathers in the script area as well as lots of throttle linkage detail, hood prop-rod, brass fittings instead ot the later-style color anodized versions, etc. I also fabricated a new top detail for the Vertex ignition magneto.
  8. Jurgen, when I see your name, l always know we're in for a treat. Your truck models are always outstanding, and this scratchbuilt Mercedes is no exception. Also, your photography is gorgeous. Congratulations on another superb model.
  9. Now that's exceptionally nice.......I just love all the Canadian Pontiac (Chevy) drivetrain and chassis detail. Absolutely gorgeous!! How did you produce the Laurentian nameplate?
  10. This modified and detailed version of Aurora’s tractor/trailer/power shovel ensemble was a collaboration that we’d talked about doing for a few years. In the mid 1950s, Aurora introduced this simple and inexpensive Ford F800 tractor/Rogers low-loader trailer/Bay City power shovel plastic kit in approximately 1/64 scale and it happened to be the very first plastic model kit that we’d ever purchased for ourselves. We were only around 10 years old back then and, even though the kit’s quality and proportions were somewhat coarse, we both think back on that first kit with fondness and nostalgia. Over 60 years later, we decided to build a much improved version of the kit in a way we could only dream about back in the day. Proportions were adjusted and details added throughout. This was truly a labour of love. Cliff Read and Larry Read
  11. '50s era International Metro RM150 van My 1/25 model features typical factory options.... heater, sun visor, cab rear partition w/sliding door, bi-fold full width rear doors, rear access spare tire basket, dual rear wheels, longest 134" wheelbase, front and rear shock absorbers, etc. International Metro vans, in various sizes, capabilities, and lengths, were one of the most popular North American delivery vehicles in the early post-war period when I was growing up in Montreal. I've always enjoyed dual-rear wheeled trucks, from 'big rigs' to delivery trucks, and these heavier versions of the ubiquitous International Metro vans were available through the '50s and '60s utilizing their traditional curved shape bodies with dual rear wheels, usually seen in the longer wheelbase versions and often supplied with the optional 'square back' bodies allowing for full width access rear doors. The '50s era of Metro vans loosely resembled their '40s era predecessors but introduced a wider stance, a wider grille for enhanced cooling air-flow, a wider headlight position, a lower interior floor now featuring a 6' floor to ceiling height, shorter front side windows allowing for more forward positioned and wider sliding side doors (now encroaching on the front fender wells), column gear shift, etc. ….all aimed at greater carrying volume and enhanced 'walk through' capability for 'multi stop' operation. When 1st Gear offered their 1/25 '40s era Metro smaller capacity van, I was fortunate to locate a damaged NAPA (an auto parts company) version very inexpensively. It whetted my appetite to build this larger, later version using mostly soldered brass (my favorite model building medium, which maintains durability even as fine details are added). Once I had acquired enough effective reference, however, I soon realized the conversion would be a good deal more involved than I'd first expected. Ultimately, I was only able to directly use the windshield frame area with the wipers and glazing, the headlight bezels and their lenses, the safety brake lever, the steering wheel, and the tires from the original 1st Gear model. All the other components from the donor van model were either found unsuitable or required extensive modification. Soldered-brass scratch-built components include most of the body shell, bi-folding rear doors (including working latch), body side guards, front and rear bumpers, rear fenders, all chassis frame structure, the front steering axle and its ancillaries (poseable), all leaf springs and their shackles, all shock absorbers, rear spare tire support, fuel tank, battery box, grille name plates, front and rear directional signal bezels, column shift components, engine wiring, all door handles, rear view mirrors, open side vent with screen, opening fuel filler door, front bumper mounted license bracket, etc. Styrene scratch-built components include the complete cab interior (floor, dash, opening engine access cover, cab partition and its transverse sliding door, sun visor, windshield wiper vacuum motors, etc.), the rear van interior (including its ribbed walls, headliner, inner fender wells, inner rear door insulation surfaces, etc.), the rear outer axle stubs and their brake backing plates, front brake drums, battery, wider '50s style grille, roof mounted marker lights, tail lights, the complete IH 'Silver Diamond' engine shape (including its pulleys, radiator, belts, etc.). Polyester components include the front fender flaring, headlight body shaping, and spare tire (from Plasticine mold). Metal wire components include front parking light bezels, radiator fins, wheel details (lug nuts and '50s style pre-tubeless tire outer rim snap-rings), brake lines, window gaskets, etc. Miscellaneous materials include rubber front brake hoses, epoxy lenses, striping tape (grille bars, name plates), zinc front body underlay panel, aluminum tubing for exhaust system and dash gauge bezels, etc. Paint is automotive two part base-coat/clear-coat, with details picked out using Testors, Tamiya, and Humbrol paints. Graphics are Microscale decals (HO and N model railroad) and Letraset concept lettering. A local group of capable modelers with whom I socialize has chosen, as a build-theme, to each build a model of any vehicle from the the historic Trans-Canada Shell 4000 Rally (held annually through the '60s and early '70s). The completed models are to form a group presentation at an upcoming model contest venue this spring. Wishing to participate in the 'build-theme' at least peripherally, my model depicts a lubricant, tire, and battery delivery-service vehicle for Shell Oil in Toronto.
  12. I would have thought so as well, but when I was building ,I googled pics of '61 pontiac open doors and, wonder of wonders, they open out on two dog-legs. see pics below
  13. This modified Moebius plastic kit is somewhat unusual for me because, now-a-days, I prefer building using predominantly metal model bodies and details….more time consuming to modify than plastic, but generally resulting in a much more durable finished product. My other hobby of collecting high quality diecast models over the last 25 years has, unfortunately, made me unsatisfied building most curbside plastic kits because I now expect to be able to open hinged engine hoods, trunk-lids, doors, and even fuel -filler doors, etc. I’m surprised that, after six decades or more, plastic kit manufacturers, for the most part, still expect models to be displayed with the hood off to see the engine detail. I really love the styling of ’61 Pontiacs, but since there were no metal versions available in 1/25 scale, I decided to use one of Moebius’ attractive plastic kits as starting material and attempt to add all the usual detail to which I’ve become accustomed. The Mobius kit is really nicely molded although, like most high detail plastic kits, it has a few fixable minor issues…..poorly fitting windshield and back-light, thick bolt flange detail on the otherwise gorgeous Pontiac 8-lug wheels, as well as a slightly awkward front fender opening as well as bulky front bumper side and depth detail). I also found that the ‘wide-trak’ was a bit over emphasized compared to 1/1 reference. Test fitting should be done during assembly of any model car, but this Pontiac model has an interference fit to most tabs and slots making drilling or trimming especially necessary to allow painted parts to fit. I also found that I had to trim back the leading edge of the engine hood so it wouldn’t protrude when closed. Cutting open the doors and trunk lid is relatively easy on plastic kits compared to metal, but the down-side is that the body becomes quite flimsy as the molded-on structure is cut away. I found it necessary to epoxy on a stiff brass wire frame to beef up the inside of the a-pillars and rear posts, helping to keep the body relatively straight. Armed with lots of photo reference, I also cut down the bottom edge of the front bumper, and shortened its side detail at the same time as softening the radius on the front of the fender opening. The molded-on fuel door was easily cut out and a hinged filler-door was formed in soldered brass to keep it looking relatively thin while maintaining integrity. Using styrene sheet, I fabricated the inner trunk detail depicting a slightly wrinkled vinyl floor mat as well as forming the typical complex underside structure of the trunk lid. To the chassis, I added parking brake detail, rear axle brake-line, aluminum tubing tail-pipe, poseable steering, and fabricated wire coil springs to raise the ride height according to most reference of high performance 1/1 Venturas. I also found a way to hinge the engine hood while retaining Mobius’ simulated Pontiac hood hinges at the sides. Hinge structures for the opening hood, trunk and doors were formed using stiff piano wire mated to styrene and aluminum receptacles, and the main ‘Ventura’ side-trim was formed in thin stainless wire terminating in tiny holes drilled into the body. The main paint is automotive two-part basecoat/clearcoat with Humbrol , Tamiya, and Testors used to pick out many small details. I also added Model Car Garage photo-etch for some of the nameplates, etc.
  14. I’ve just completed this little deep purple hot rod pickup using , with only a couple of minor exceptions, stuff languishing in my parts bin….things in desperate need of rescue. The only exceptions were the photoetch grille, gage cluster, teardrop tail-lights, and license plate frame from a Model Car Garage Deuce PE detail set. The Model A pickup body was mostly complete but many of its accessories were either broken or missing so it was a prime candidate for being modified into a traditional hot rod. Like most traditional hot rodders, I much prefer the look of the Deuce (‘32 Ford) grill shell over any of the various Model A Ford grille shells and, fortunately, I have copious incomplete Revell deuce kits bought as parts suppliers mostly for their chrome reverse wheels and Covico style steering wheels, so I was able to use the grille shell as well as the simulated rubber running board detail from one of those. Because of the different top contour of the Deuce shell compared to the Model A version, I fabricated a new engine hood top in sheet brass to accommodate the Deuce shell with the Model A cowl. The motor is modified from a ‘parts-bin ’57 Chevy 283 mated to an automatic transmission and the rear axle is one from a late 50s Chev pickup, complete with semi-elliptic leaf springs. I chose to shorten the Model A pickup box a scale 5 inches (a typical hot-rodder’s trick), the interior is typical custom roll-n-pleat (seat formed from Renshape with the addition of model railroad styrene building-siding to simulate the pleated upholstery), and a bed-mounted, handmade, polished aluminum fuel tank replaces the original (dangerous) Model A cowl gravity tank. The covered fender mounted spare wheel/tire is lathe-turned from Renshape, and the custom dual exhaust system is formed from polished aluminum tubing. The wheels are chrome reverse from Pegasus with ‘mystery’ tires from my parts bin. The project has taken approximately one month, starting in December 2018, and finishing in early January 2019. The main paint is custom mixed deep pearl purple automotive basecoat/clearcoat.
  15. Hi Peter, Quality over quantity! You always do beautiful work and this Jag is fabulous. Gorgeous photography as well. Congratulations
  • Create New...