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Codi

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Posts posted by Codi

  1. Ed, the wheels are not mine, they are from Jim at MicroNitro. I showed them because I agree with you, it will be a shame to cover them up....so I thought I'd post a pic before that happens.

    Chris, THAT sounds so cool...I bought several different jet aircraft kits too to "borrow" some parts and ideas for my project. That should be killer when you get it started.

    Gene, all of my paint jobs on my few finished cars turned out well in my estimation but man were they a struggle to get them there. I've learned a lot about getting solid results with bodywork and paint but it seems "hit or miss" for me when it comes to final paint. It's the one aspect of the hobby that I can truly say I've not mastered and I envy the guys that just lay down beautiful paint car after car.

    Cheers,
    Tim

  2. Gene, David, Mike and Bob.....thanks fellas for the comments. Here are some pics of the inters upside down with the machined collectors on them. The pics are just mock-ups and not assembled yet. The angled pipe will allow the space I need to angle and fit the plumbing now flat on the passenger side floor (side by side) and out of the way of the electrics, fire bottles and other necessary features. I'm hopeful I can bend some rod/tube to make them fit but just in case, i know this will work now.

    Next week I'll finish up the necessary v-clamps and other minor details.

    Next on the chassis is the funny cage and trans tunnel rails.

    Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone and your families!

    Tim

    HenryJIntercoolerCollectors004-vi.jpg

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  3. Well, got the intercooling plumbing almost done. The collector box I machined out of 1/4" rod. Both boxes will be located on the very bottom of the twin tanks. (Thanks again to Comp1839 for his machining tips) I angle cut 3/16" aluminum tube to make it all fit properly now. I have to make a second one and add some weld lines and custom V-band clamps and they'll be good to go.

    Happy Holidays, Tim

    rcoolingPlumbingCollerctors001-vi.jpg

    rcoolingPlumbingCollerctors004-vi.jpg

    rcoolingPlumbingCollerctors005-vi.jpg

  4. Bill...thanks for the compliment. Truly appreciated.

    Gene, I used to paint in my basement but after having to strip and re-do paint about half the time I gave up on it. I only spray small parts or sub-assemblies during the winter months (i have a paint booth) and wait till Spring to paint bodies. I setup and spray in my garage then when the temp is upper 70's or better. Much more consistent I've found. This car was sprayed under such conditions and was going down smoothly until coat 6 or 7 of the blue Kandy. I put too much on at one particular pass and with the curves of the body, it puddled...so, I sanded the car instead of dipping as the chemical bathes attack the putty and glue so......it has to wait till spring to be completed. I would add however that Harry P., our administrator just sprayed his Boattail and it's beautiful. And he shared that he paints in his garage and then takes it inside immediately (and he lives in Chicago which has less favorable paint weather than here in Penna.) Maybe I'm doing something wrong. My basement is about 63 degrees with 35% humiditiy. Check out his car, it's pretty slick.

    Tim

  5. Harry, quick paint question for you. The paint on the fenders looks great. I see too that you reside in Chicago where the weather isn't the greatest. Certainly worse than Pennsylvania right now. How do you manage to get such nice paint down during the winter? I don't have a dedicated paint area beyond the basement which is no place to paint right now. Just curious and thanks in advance.

    Tim

  6. Scott,

    I believe you're asking me about the 2 small quick release "push-pins". I took .5mm s/steel tubing and some various MAS PhotoEtch throttle linkage brackets that I modified. Drilled them out wtih a #74 (75?) bit and added a small and large PE washer front and back. The centers were then detailed with a dab of red machinist dye. The hoop itself is 1/16" tube that I had to drill out with a 3/64" bit (VERY thin walls now) I was then able to insert the 3/64" brass rod into the bottom half of the hoop, attached the top half and then drilled each side to accept the pins. The hoop was cut in half first btw.

    If I didn't answer your question clearly, let me know and I'll try to assist.

    Thanks Dr. Kerry for your comment too.

    Cheers

    Tim

  7. Len, Tom and Chris, thanks for checking it out and your comments.

    Chris, I'd like to see what you have in store for everyone on your LSR car. Mine took many variations to get to the point you see it now. You can really let your imagination run wild which is one reason I like the whole idea of Bonneville and the cars that run there. The Speed Demon car set records with everything from V8's to 4 cylinder engines stuffed in it. A testament to their overall design and engineering of the overall car. It will be interesting to see what they do with the next one.

    Now I've got to get back to the Henry build as I have a LONG way to go on that one.

    Happy Holidays Gentlemen!

  8. Wow, what a response from everyone. I truly wasn't expecting the replies and interest. Thanks guys for sharing your enthsiasm for what was/is a work in progress but it WILL see the light of day. The entire car started as a vision of what to build to challenge the Bonneville record book. The real 1:1 car for inspiration was the recently destroyed Speed Demon car. (lost control at 370mph, driver survived with minor injuries, car was a total loss of course) Speed Demon was an engineering marvel and garnered many records during it's racing career. The team is building an all new car for next year btw.

    John Pol, btw, I was remiss....LSR is short for Land Speed Record which is THE goal of each car that competes at Bonneville every year. The class that this car would belong to would be the experimental, blown alcohol class. At least that's what I was building it around. I did buy the Bonneville 2013 rule book and tried to follow it to the letter. There is only one glaring error in the build and that would be the rear "rudder" that is designed to move 15 degrees either way to assist in steering the car at speed. It was a feature that the BAR F1 team used on their record setting Bonneville effort. The rules state the a moveable "device" such as my rudder is forbidden. It was too cool as a concept / build feature, that I just had to include it irregardless.

    Bernard, wasn't sure as to whether to post this thread under WIP or Drag racing...but the header for drag racing states "if it goes in a straight line" so I took it literally and posted the build here. Harry can move it if he thinks it would be more appropriate under WIP.

    Lastly, the nose was made of a layered up plastic piece of plastic that I "carved" by hand to get the shape I wanted. The exhaust ports on the back are 2000 era F-1 style "chimneys" that I made out out of aluminum that I think you'll like when you see them. The exhause blisters are modified aircraft fuel tanks, the front suspension and connecting fairings are angled / shaped aluminum tubing and the 4 wheel fairings are made in the shape of TV Tommy IVOS front engined dragster only because I thought they looked cool. They're plastic and aluminum. Can you tell this car is a real compilation of ideas and notions?

    Thanks again fellas, can't wait for spring to get it painted and finished. I probably have a months worth of work to finish it.

    Tim

  9. Something a little different I started the winter of 2013. The turbo engine for my Henry J build was going to go in this car originally. Started life as a Toyota GT1 WEC car and modified it to become an "experimental class" LSR car. The project was moving along until I resurrected the Henry build and decided it should be a curbside build. I got so far as the paint but when I did the Kandy Blue portion, I rushed it and messed it up as it puddled. Kandy jobs can't be rushed as many of you know. UGH! This one will be completed first thing come springtime when the paint weather gets better here. The floor will be carbon fibre, the rear wing is adjustable/steerable and the wheels are from MicroNitro. It might be stalled but it will be completed. Comments always welcome and Happy Holidays to Everyone!

    Tim

    LSRSTREAMLINERBODYWORK002-vi.jpg

    The blisters for the engine and trans are from model aircraft kits btw. The Moon discs you see in some of the photos will be centered on the wheel fairings. The paint will be two-tone silver and blue.

    LSRMicroNitroWHEELS-vi.jpg

    LSRSTREAMLINER018-vi.jpg

    LSRSTREAMLINER011-vi.jpgLSRSTREAMLINER005-vi.jpg

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  10. Derrick, Stan and Joe.....thank you for the nice comments & your continued interest on the build.

    Chris(Mooneyz) I saw your post on your tins and what happened. Sorry you have to deal with that, but like you pointed out, it's "only" the one that needs to be made again and not all of them. But I felt your pain as a build as involved as yours, it can get disheartening to have even a minor set back when you're getting close to completing it. Keep your great attitude and thanks for sharing the info so others might avoid the same mistake. And thanks for your compliments on Henry.

    John.(Mr. Teresi) ....I'm so glad you like it. At the rate I'm going, you'll be able to follow this build for a LONG time. I have some cool things I want to do along the way yet and I've come to the conclusion that it won't be done by summer 2015 afterall. Thanks again!

    Gene, sorry, "inters" is an abbreviation for intercoolers. They take the air from the turbos and literally chill it before routing it to the intake. My challenge is to make collectors and plumbing that take 4 pipes and merge them into 2 for space reasons. Hope this helps.

    Cheers, Tim

  11. Hi, some updates on "Henry". Like many others, my previous post was lost but these pics will bring the build up to date. Next step is to machine some collectors and do the plumbing for the inters. Cheers, Tim

    The chassis fitment to the body so far is glove tight.

    yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2004-vi.jpg

    An overall shot of the chassis

    yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2034-vi.jpg

    Shot of the inters on their mounts and the drive shaft hoop with the push-pins installed.

    yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2045-vi.jpg

    Detail of the hoop seperated and the accompanying push-pins.

    yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2042-vi.jpg

    A different angle of the bottom and rear.

    yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2062-vi.jpg

    Penny Shot

    yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2074-vi.jpg

  12. Harry, I was fortunate to have followed your thread during the build of this car. Even though the WIP thread is in server heaven, the final pics are still a stunning testament to what your abilities are.

    Congrats on a really sharp build.

    Tim

  13. Hi Guys, i've not posted pics lately as I've been working through the chassis design and build techniques before I get started. I've ordered a couple of new tools that should assist with the build as I'm committed to doing the chassis in brass afterall. I've also turned to Dave (comp1839) for insights on building a "correct" chassis for the car. He's a true wealth of information and he's helped tremendously in clearing up certain misperceptions I had about chassis design and rules for this particular car. There is so much stuff that must fit in the car and as I've stated before, space is at an extreme premium on this particular build. I'll post pics next week if all goes according to plan.

    Cheers,

    Tim

    btw, the chassis jig should be helpful but I did discover that all steel is not the same. I was practicing some new techniques of soldering on an older sheet of steel and ended up with solder splatter and blobs on the steel and the brass I had just soldered together was stuck to the steel sheet....."huh" I said....so I flipped it over and it was marked as "weld steel"....I got out another sheet of steel that was marked as plain ol' steel and had no such issues. Obviously there are different grades / types of steel and "weld" steel doesn't work for the jig. I bought the regular steel that I made the jig out of at Tractor Supply for those interested. It's 16 gauge.

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