Codi
-
Posts
2,484 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Codi
-
-
Thanks Chris. No I won't be going to the GSL...with kids, spring break and all the other things that "life" throws at me, I will have to miss it again. It's on the bucket list and it would be great to finally meet so many other modellers that I've met through this forum.
Whew...thanks Randy. Glad you like it. What you won't see is that today I spend 2 hours tearing it all apart and re-doing the bars and geometry on the rear It was wrong. Now it's correct. I thank my friend Dave for catching that one. Oh well, better to get it right. If you go to my Fotki page you'll see the changes I made. And I must add that I'm so flattered that you think enough of the build to share it with others. Especially those not familiar with our hobby. Cheers
Michael - Thanks dude. See my comment for Randy. Nothing is easy it seems. But, it WILL be correct. Please note too the difference in the diameters of the upper v. bottom bars. The tops are 1.1mm and the bottoms are 1.4mm. Dave pointed out that the bars on real cars are substantially bigger than most modellers make them (1.250" to 1.5" in diameter) So, I took what was the closest material (s/steel tube in this instance) to replicate the 1:1 cars. It's the little things.
Mike (MagicPhotos) nice to see you following and I DO appreciate your comments as always. Take care.
Cheers, Tim
-
Hi - Brad and Joe, I do drawings before milling any part. I know some guys might be able to do a piece without having something to go by, but I'm not one of them. I will be sure to share some future mill setup pics and other info that might be of help. As an fyi, I don't own a lathe at this time. When choosing between the 2, I chose the mill as my first purchase as it's more versatile and theres more to learn. I figure if I can learn my way around a mill reasonably well, then a lathe will be a much simpler learning curve. I know that might seem like a backwards approach to some, but it's just the "weird" way I think.
Scott, thanks too for ALL your positive comments. It's greatly appreciated.
Today, I got the 4 links done. The rear is now in position, height and side to side and back/forard. Now I can start the rails. The jig worked VERY well but todays work was fairly simple, straightforward stuff. It's true capabilities will be tested in the coming days. The tubing is s/steel and I tried to replicate the bungs on the ends of the rods by softening the edges of RB Motion A & N fittings. Kinda worked. Now, if I had a lathe, I might have..... A few pics.......
-
Randy, I thought I had a decent vocabulary but I'm running out of superlatives. Let me just say..........SWEET workmanship. Cheers, Tim
-
Ray and Brad, I do use drawings. For the rear they show top and side profiles. Of course, it doesn't mean that they might night change as I get into the fabbing of the rails. I promise to post frequent progress pics as I build and you should be able to see all of the good, bad and the ugly. I'll be specific about what works and doesn't work.
Art, thank you sir, and btw when are we gonig to see more of your "dirt" car?
Cheers everyone.
Tim
-
Yeah Dave, what they said....what's up with that?
When will you get this done? In all seriousness my friend, when the time comes, then it will be the "right" time. Now go get that awesome 37' hotrod done. Cheers, Tim -
Why am I not surprised at how well this is turning out. See what happens when you set ones expectations so high.
Nice Chris.Cheers, Tim
-
Hey Jeremy, I'll be watching you build. I have no doubt you'll make the club and your dad proud. Great subject too! Cheers, Tim
-
FOUND IT...and I'm sure glad I did. John, you have the most creative mind and ability to execute a vision that one could imagine. Just truly inspirational. I especially like the fact that it's totally "believable" in it's concept and execution. You never cease to amaze. Cheers, Tim
-
Jeremy - Thanks again and tell your father I said "hello'!
Jeff - I used a sherline slitting saw with a .020" blade. When it gets near the end I carefully grab it a pair of tweezers and ever so slowly advance the wheel until it comes off. Key word is "carefully". And yes, like you, I've had more than my share of parts lost on the floor that I've renamed "the Lost World".
Jonathon Thanks as well.
RAY, glad this helps in some way. If you have any further questions OR suggestions to make it better, pleaes let me know.
Mitchell - Thought you'd get a kick out of Dave's builds. He lives on another planet from the rest of us as his work is so "alien" in it's execution. Thanks Chris for providing the link too!
Joe -
I sound just like him too when I have my paint mask on. Mr. Teresi - Greatly appreciated as always........now, again, how do I get to that boat build thread you've got going on. I had it and now I can't find it again. BTW - I FOUND your boat thread under "OTHER BUILDS" on the forum, for those of you that have not seen it or were aware of what mad genius John was displaying, go check it out. Totally cool.
-
Wow Ray. That is pulling in beautifully. Thanks for the amount of detail and photos you're sharing along the way. There are important lessons here that I'm sure I'll attempt to replicate one day and you're blazing a great path. Cheers, Tim
-
Glad to see you back on this one John. Now where do I go to check out you boat thread? Cheers, Tim
-
Hi, I'd like to address those that posted comments individually:
Randy - many hours of prep to get to the fabbing part now. I'm learning machining as I go and it's slowing me down but I'm not really building a model here, I'm getting an education in actuality. More after school time is going to be required I'm afraid.
I spent 2 1/2 hours making those twin small anti-roll brackets on the mill...they're 3.8 x 4.8mm (tiny I assure you) but they're a much cooler solution that I wanted to try to make....that's where my time has been spent. The jig brackets were machined from 1/4" alum. rod which took me too long to make as well. I know you can relate. Hopefully (I'm counting on it) this will work now as I get to fabbing the back-half. Thanks for following along too!Chris - Scratchbuilding sure is rewarding but it's tough and time consuming as you well know. You get what you put into it I guess. Great job on the blanket too! Keep her going now and thanks for your compliments.
Dave - mimickry is the sincerest form of flattery and I'm doing my best to learn and replicate some of the things and lessons you've shared personally. Guys, go check out Dave's engine build. A true Monster small block that even Godzilla would fear. (photobucket - "comp1839" ) You won't be let down.
Ray - Tyrone- Leonard and Dave - Thank you gentlemen for your continued interest and the kind words. I think the coming few weeks will really be a good as it relates to progress now.
Joe - "dragons'.....I'm going to take that as a compliment....you do know however that Godzilla was NOT a dragon.
Bruce - thank you sir. I really like your build on your Wolf F1. You are absolutely nailing the colorations all along the way. You have some very sharp talents there too my friend. I did pick up a HiroBoy 1/12th Porsche 917 LH recently...at my rate I'll get to it in a year or so. SOOOO many opps for detailing in 1/12th that it boggles my mind even where to begin. And man is it a BIG car compared to the Henry. Thanks too for your words and interest.
Michael, glad to be of help as always. The grid is 1/8 of an inch. More like 4mm. I'll take apart the jig as I have to put the 4 link brackets on next to locate the axle front to rear with the chassis. I also want to scribe some vertical marks for lining up purposes on the brackets I made. That's why you see red machinist dye on them in certain areas. It will make alignment even easier I believe. I put the entire assembly plate on a machinist vice that is a twin axis. It raises the car to a level that I don't have to bend over nearly as much. I was getting a stiff neck too often from bending over the table and the gyrations while soldering were too much. I can even tilt the table if I need to for soldering purposes. I'm anxious to see how that helps. Appreciate your compliment and for following. Now where are those ladder bars for YOUR car.
Cheers, Tim
-
Hi, I guess if you don't post for a while you kind of forget how to. I just took 20 minutes to post to the thread and I obviously did something wrong. In brief, here are some new pics and if you have any questions, please ask and I'll do my best to explain. Cheers, Tim
I did "borrow" liberally from some of the chassis jig ideas that Dave(comp1839) used and shared on his Camaro ProMod build. I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel, only trying to make it work on this particular build for the scale that I'm working in. The brackets are really helpful in locating the axle and shocks so I can build the backhalf off their locations.
-
NICE RAY.....I knew this would be an awesome thread. Great work on the cowl !
Tim
-
Hi Ray, you sir must be a mind reader as I've spent quite a bit of time and brain power (which I don't have to spare) on how to fab what I now have down on paper. The axle brackets are done. They work well and now I know what I MUST make (another pair of similar type supports albeit taller) that will help me "locate" the proper shock location. Then it's time to solder. I promise to share what I've come up with BEFORE I start the chassis fabbing. I think that what I will be describing might make more sense to anyone interested before I actually start soldering it up. I am encouraged by the progress I'm making and the ideas should be replicable for future builds. The only thought I have for anyone considering my current jig for this build is that it might not be applicable for a different type of car. Such as your GT-40...but if there are ideas that I can offer that help you or anyone else, then that is all I can hope for. Cheers, Tim
SORRY RAY, I meant your Big Boyz Deuce build.......not Randy's GT-40. Tim
-
Hi Randy, "mc" ...model club? What car are you doing in 1/12th btw? Cheers, Tim
-
Hey Randy...very soon...I've been making small parts, chassis jig pieces and final drawings so that I can start fabrication of the back end at some point next week. I've spent time also finishing up some small details on my brakes and even soldering some simple tiny tabs on my 4 link brackets (which took me too long as one of them "moved" and I had to take it apart and re-do it..my fault as I didn't take the necessary precaution before soldering it up) I'm working very tight tolerances (which you know all about) and it really serves to remind me what scratch building means.....these modern drag chassis require more thought and planning than my Willy's chassis. Be assured though, I'm making headway. I'll post pics sometime next week. Thanks for thinking about the build!
Cheers, Tim
btw, killer job on the steering rack on your gt40. Just superb.
-
Great car that you've selected Bruce and you're certainly off to a super start. Thanks for sharing the details on the paint for the engine/trans. It looks VERY realistic.....I'm going to step up to 1/12th at somepoint and it will be interesting to see how much detail you can put into 1 car. Best to you on the build! Tim
-
Sorry to hear this Art but certainly understood. Will certainly follow along when you eventually get back to it. Cheers, Tim
-
Great update Randy. Was just thinking about this build and sure enough, we get some really cool pics from you. Nicely done on each part! Cheers, Tim
-
Ray, thanks for the info....you'll note that i left out a very important word (now in bold) in my earlier post........and appreciate the very quick reply. I can appreciate all the planning you've done. Has to be rewarding to be underway and to make such quick progress. I know you'll keep us apprised to your progress, can't wait to see what you do next with it. Cheers, Tim
-
Thank you Ray. I did buy an assortment of new Fretz hammers, a leather sandbag and some other basic "beating" tools, but I'm NOT certainly ready to take on a project such as yours. Like you, I have the same admiration for those that have the skills to do what you're tackling. I'll have to take time to check out the links you've provided as well. That wheel you have is something that I would like to get as well when the time is right. It has to be a real handy tool and I'll be watching your results as you get to that phase. You're off to an excellent start. One question, have you frequently annealed the aluminum as you're working it or have you skipped that completely?
Cheers, Tim
-
Ray, you are correct sir. I think I ended up using 4 different mill ends (different sizes and 1 ball end) to make it. The one accessory that Sherline sells that I want to get next is a vertical plate for the rotary table then I can do some things that I've wanted to but haven't just yet. And I read your comments on your "Big Boyz" build. Thanks for the comments. For all of you builders that haven't checked it out, you really should. Ray is doing some REALLY cool panel beating. Cheers
-
Wow Ray. If there is one "skill" I want to learn someday, it's panel beating like you're doing. As an acknowledged "newbie" to it, it's great to see how you're progressing and the lessons you're learning. I'll be sure to follow along as I'm sure they'll be MANY lessons I can learn when I pick up the hammer too. The efforts and results I've achieved to date can't compare to what you've achieved. Just fantastic!!! Cheers, Tim
When will you get this done? 
In all seriousness my friend, when the time comes, then it will be the "right" time. Now go get that awesome 37' hotrod done. Cheers, Tim
Nice Chris.
1/12 Scale: Custom "Day Cruiser" Boat: 12/30/14 on the bench
in WIP: All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures
Posted
YOU and only YOU could have pulled this off John. What a COOL build. I love your stuff, always have and always will. Cheers, Tim