Codi

Hi Michael, no I am not familiar of a solder that will join the two metals. If you can learn more and share it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you as always for your positive comments. I'll have some updates & pics in a few days hopefully. Cheers, Tim

Jeremy, I actually remember when the real thing when it broke cover many many years ago. You're doing it justice. Great start on the engine and trans. This should be a fun thread to follow. Good luck with it! Tim

Erik, your 57' is my personal favorite. Just a beautiful car and color combo. Any other photos of it (chassis / engine) perhaps ? Congrats. Tim

Cato, my best wishes and prayers are with you and your wife at this time. Sincerest regards, Tim

Mark, what a way to wrap up the year with it's completion. The entire thread has been inspiring to follow. What are you going to do for your next build if I may ask? Happy New Year! Tim

Gene, glad to be of help. Bill, thanks for checking it out. I know of what you speak when it comes to the notion of "burn-out" on a build. But I think I've got my attitude towards the hobby figured out finally, at least as it relates to me personally (and my personality). I get the biggest kick out of learning new techniques and skills in building a car. Each part of the car is a mini challenge that I enjoy tackling. Putting it all together at the end is just a bonus that I look forward to but it's not the "goal" if ever there was one. I just do it for fun. Thanks again for your interest and sentiments. Dennis, glad you stumbled upon the Henry thread and appreciate your compliment. Hope you enjoy the rest of the build as it progresses.

Peter, you've nailed them all. So sharp looking. I'll be sure to check out your site and follow along in the future. Cheers, Tim

Nice eclectic choice of builds. Covers a broad range of periods and themes. Congratulations Yuri. Any chassis or engine shots btw? Have a Happy New Year as well! Tim

Cool John. Like that green glass roof too. Tim

Good eye Joe. The engine block for this engine was made from scratch (plastic) and was based on a punched out small block all aluminum Shelby model. The basis for the Shelby 427 block was the original Ford 351W. The Arias hemi heads were designed to fit this block. So, in the spirit of the engine "development" it took on a "Shelby" theme. You'll see a similar logo on the top of the intake plenum too. Tim

Joe, I use Archer Fine Transfers for plastic (like the headers) and for the aluminum, I use metal welds by Hobby Design. You have to carefully super-glue them in place. Glenn, thank you! Tim

Hi Randy, I'll bolt the intercoolers to their mounts on the main hoop. On those pieces that need joining (pipes etc.) I use almost exclusively Devcon 2 part 5 minute epoxy. The part number is S210. One side of the tube is blue and the other clear. I share that as there are a dozen different devcon glues and you want to get the right one. It dries and grips harder than any loctite glue. I do use loctite gel super glues occassionally for smaller parts when strength isn't of primary importance. The bonus with Devcon is the 5 min. time to adjust the pieces before they start to firm up. 6 hours later, won't budge and dries clear too. Lastly, on the intercoolers, when I put the collectors on the bottom I will drill out and "pin" them with a piece of rod inserted for additional strength and use the devcon. Hope I was of help. Tim

Randy, I REALLY like what you're doing here. Great eye for detail and you're fab skills are top-notch. A truly fun and inspiring thread to watch. Cheers, Tim

Ed, the wheels are not mine, they are from Jim at MicroNitro. I showed them because I agree with you, it will be a shame to cover them up....so I thought I'd post a pic before that happens. Chris, THAT sounds so cool...I bought several different jet aircraft kits too to "borrow" some parts and ideas for my project. That should be killer when you get it started. Gene, all of my paint jobs on my few finished cars turned out well in my estimation but man were they a struggle to get them there. I've learned a lot about getting solid results with bodywork and paint but it seems "hit or miss" for me when it comes to final paint. It's the one aspect of the hobby that I can truly say I've not mastered and I envy the guys that just lay down beautiful paint car after car. Cheers, Tim

Gene, David, Mike and Bob.....thanks fellas for the comments. Here are some pics of the inters upside down with the machined collectors on them. The pics are just mock-ups and not assembled yet. The angled pipe will allow the space I need to angle and fit the plumbing now flat on the passenger side floor (side by side) and out of the way of the electrics, fire bottles and other necessary features. I'm hopeful I can bend some rod/tube to make them fit but just in case, i know this will work now. Next week I'll finish up the necessary v-clamps and other minor details. Next on the chassis is the funny cage and trans tunnel rails. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone and your families! Tim

I can only echo what the others have said Rich. THAT is sharp sharp car. Cheers, Tim

Tuilo, from the paint choices to the subtle bodywork, your car is a testament to the adage, that "less is more". Really nice build. Congrats and thanks for sharing. Tim

Well, got the intercooling plumbing almost done. The collector box I machined out of 1/4" rod. Both boxes will be located on the very bottom of the twin tanks. (Thanks again to Comp1839 for his machining tips) I angle cut 3/16" aluminum tube to make it all fit properly now. I have to make a second one and add some weld lines and custom V-band clamps and they'll be good to go. Happy Holidays, Tim

Bill...thanks for the compliment. Truly appreciated. Gene, I used to paint in my basement but after having to strip and re-do paint about half the time I gave up on it. I only spray small parts or sub-assemblies during the winter months (i have a paint booth) and wait till Spring to paint bodies. I setup and spray in my garage then when the temp is upper 70's or better. Much more consistent I've found. This car was sprayed under such conditions and was going down smoothly until coat 6 or 7 of the blue Kandy. I put too much on at one particular pass and with the curves of the body, it puddled...so, I sanded the car instead of dipping as the chemical bathes attack the putty and glue so......it has to wait till spring to be completed. I would add however that Harry P., our administrator just sprayed his Boattail and it's beautiful. And he shared that he paints in his garage and then takes it inside immediately (and he lives in Chicago which has less favorable paint weather than here in Penna.) Maybe I'm doing something wrong. My basement is about 63 degrees with 35% humiditiy. Check out his car, it's pretty slick. Tim

Thank you Dave. And for the valuable insights and guidance you've provided as I continue the build. Tim

Harry, quick paint question for you. The paint on the fenders looks great. I see too that you reside in Chicago where the weather isn't the greatest. Certainly worse than Pennsylvania right now. How do you manage to get such nice paint down during the winter? I don't have a dedicated paint area beyond the basement which is no place to paint right now. Just curious and thanks in advance. Tim

Scott, I believe you're asking me about the 2 small quick release "push-pins". I took .5mm s/steel tubing and some various MAS PhotoEtch throttle linkage brackets that I modified. Drilled them out wtih a #74 (75?) bit and added a small and large PE washer front and back. The centers were then detailed with a dab of red machinist dye. The hoop itself is 1/16" tube that I had to drill out with a 3/64" bit (VERY thin walls now) I was then able to insert the 3/64" brass rod into the bottom half of the hoop, attached the top half and then drilled each side to accept the pins. The hoop was cut in half first btw. If I didn't answer your question clearly, let me know and I'll try to assist. Thanks Dr. Kerry for your comment too. Cheers Tim

Len, Tom and Chris, thanks for checking it out and your comments. Chris, I'd like to see what you have in store for everyone on your LSR car. Mine took many variations to get to the point you see it now. You can really let your imagination run wild which is one reason I like the whole idea of Bonneville and the cars that run there. The Speed Demon car set records with everything from V8's to 4 cylinder engines stuffed in it. A testament to their overall design and engineering of the overall car. It will be interesting to see what they do with the next one. Now I've got to get back to the Henry build as I have a LONG way to go on that one. Happy Holidays Gentlemen!

Thanks Art. Keep your build going as well, I'm looking for ideas as well and love to see what everyone else is doing. You're doing a super job. Great hobby huh! Happy Holidays Tim

Wow, what a response from everyone. I truly wasn't expecting the replies and interest. Thanks guys for sharing your enthsiasm for what was/is a work in progress but it WILL see the light of day. The entire car started as a vision of what to build to challenge the Bonneville record book. The real 1:1 car for inspiration was the recently destroyed Speed Demon car. (lost control at 370mph, driver survived with minor injuries, car was a total loss of course) Speed Demon was an engineering marvel and garnered many records during it's racing career. The team is building an all new car for next year btw. John Pol, btw, I was remiss....LSR is short for Land Speed Record which is THE goal of each car that competes at Bonneville every year. The class that this car would belong to would be the experimental, blown alcohol class. At least that's what I was building it around. I did buy the Bonneville 2013 rule book and tried to follow it to the letter. There is only one glaring error in the build and that would be the rear "rudder" that is designed to move 15 degrees either way to assist in steering the car at speed. It was a feature that the BAR F1 team used on their record setting Bonneville effort. The rules state the a moveable "device" such as my rudder is forbidden. It was too cool as a concept / build feature, that I just had to include it irregardless. Bernard, wasn't sure as to whether to post this thread under WIP or Drag racing...but the header for drag racing states "if it goes in a straight line" so I took it literally and posted the build here. Harry can move it if he thinks it would be more appropriate under WIP. Lastly, the nose was made of a layered up plastic piece of plastic that I "carved" by hand to get the shape I wanted. The exhaust ports on the back are 2000 era F-1 style "chimneys" that I made out out of aluminum that I think you'll like when you see them. The exhause blisters are modified aircraft fuel tanks, the front suspension and connecting fairings are angled / shaped aluminum tubing and the 4 wheel fairings are made in the shape of TV Tommy IVOS front engined dragster only because I thought they looked cool. They're plastic and aluminum. Can you tell this car is a real compilation of ideas and notions? Thanks again fellas, can't wait for spring to get it painted and finished. I probably have a months worth of work to finish it. Tim