[[Template core/front/global/utilitiesMenu does not exist. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About sbk

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lafayette, LA
  • Full Name
    Steve Boutte
  1. casting parts

    Thanks....it's been a long day. I've been editing this post for the past 15 minutes or so. Hopefully, the version I saved is correct. Yes, I did the masters on all of these.
  2. casting parts

    Polytek Plat-Sil 71-11 silicone & 1512X resin is what I have been using for years. Mold making & casting in a 2 gal. pressure tank, no vacuum or mold release needed. The resin is white, color differences are due to the lighting in the photo. Resin copy of a scratchbuilt 1949-1950 Merc. door handle fresh from the mold. The aqua colored thing is the mold. After a little cleanup. Resin copies of scratchbuilt 1949-1950 Ford interior parts. After black enamel & Alclad II chrome. Resin copies of scratchbuilt flipper hubcaps & 1935 Olds side hood trim. Castings come out as smooth & glossy as the patterns are. Steve
  3. 1953 Ford Hotrod

    What paint did you use on the engine block? It almost looks like it's cast in 18k gold. Steve
  4. 1957 Dodge D500 Custom Royal

    Michael, your work is inspiring! Very nice! Steve
  5. K&R Kustoms+Rods "barn find" dry lakes belly tanker

    Wow , very cool!
  6. NNL East 2017............My take!

    Thanks, Bill, great photos. It must have been so cool to see Juha's work in person! Steve
  7. Revell 1960 Chevy

    Yep, very nice work! Those door panels had me studying them for a while.
  8. I'll be there. Tomorrow, I'm meeting up with a few of my friends in TX , & we are driving up Saturday.
  9. This is what I was thinking, too. But, if you do it at the prep stage, there's no turning back later on. A good way to start the scribe would be to use a set of dividers with one needle extending longer than the other. Let the longer needle follow the inner edge the wheel opening, & the other needle will lightly scribe the body parallel to the opening. Unfortunately, some wheel well trim is not parallel all the way around & gets narrower on the ends. With a little practice you can compensate by tilting the dividers a bit to decrease the distance on each end. Then, deepen the line a bit more by using an X-acto knife. Tape seems like a good idea, too. I use dividers a lot for re-scribing door lines to match the shape of a modified side window.
  10. 1966 Chrysler 300.

    Still looks fine on mine, with quite a bit of room to spare horizontally.
  11. 1957 Ford Fairlane 500 Club Victoria. Class of 1957.

    Beautiful work, as usual! The whitewalls & gold side trim inserts are outstanding!
  12. 1966 Chrysler 300.

    I'll chime in, too, gorgeous & no photo squishing on my end! I also agree about the the flake in the paint being so perfect for the scale. Very nice!
  13. Turbo 4cyl Cuda - DONE!! 3/21

    Nice work! What is the source of the small screw heads on the engine?