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sbk

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About sbk

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/25

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.sbkustoms.com/

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lafayette, LA
  • Full Name
    Steve Boutte

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  1. I've chopped a couple, but never sectioned one. I have a step by step of the chop along with other things during the building process on my FB page. https://www.facebook.com/pg/Steve-Boutte-Kustoms-136565936448460/photos/?tab=album&album_id=148890918549295
  2. Flat32, I'm intrigued by your experiments, I hope you figure it out. That carb looks good, is it 1/25? Who did the printing? Thanks, Steve
  3. Great tip, I'll definitely have to try it. Have you ever had your knife cut into the tape guide when you're going into a tighter radius? Thanks,
  4. Looking very nice! I'm curious to see the 3D printed wheel covers. I'm always looking for ways to make some that weren't produced in scale.
  5. Flat32

    Hi Steve,

    Really appreciate your post on fans. Intrigued by the fuel pump and spark plug boots so went to your FB site looking for info and didn't find. Instead blown away by steering wheels and articulated front suspension.

    Question is do you post on another forum??

    Thanks,

    Ray

  6. Okay, Spaz clear didn't work out for me. Instant aluminum. Thanks,
  7. As Casey said, it depends on the model. I think I thinned both sides on this AMT '50 Ford. I know for sure that I used small files & sanding sticks on the back side. Also, the belts on the painted version are made from 3M fine line tape with the adhesive removed, painted flat black. This fan is from the Caddy engine in the Revell 1949 Merc. kit. This photo shows one blade at kit thickness & the others in the process of being thinned. All work was done on the backside of the fan with small files & sanding sticks. Although it's still not as thin as it should be in scale, it's much better than straight from the box.
  8. I agree, it looks very good, but I am not having good results with durability. I tried removing a finger smudge from a part by lightly rubbing with a soft cloth, & the chrome look turned into aluminum. I can do that on a part sprayed with Alclad with no problem. What clear coat works for you? Thanks, Steve
  9. Thanks....it's been a long day. I've been editing this post for the past 15 minutes or so. Hopefully, the version I saved is correct. Yes, I did the masters on all of these.
  10. Polytek Plat-Sil 71-11 silicone & 1512X resin is what I have been using for years. Mold making & casting in a 2 gal. pressure tank, no vacuum or mold release needed. The resin is white, color differences are due to the lighting in the photo. Resin copy of a scratchbuilt 1949-1950 Merc. door handle fresh from the mold. The aqua colored thing is the mold. After a little cleanup. Resin copies of scratchbuilt 1949-1950 Ford interior parts. After black enamel & Alclad II chrome. Resin copies of scratchbuilt flipper hubcaps & 1935 Olds side hood trim. Castings come out as smooth & glossy as the patterns are. Steve
  11. sbk

    1953 Ford Hotrod

    What paint did you use on the engine block? It almost looks like it's cast in 18k gold. Steve
  12. Michael, your work is inspiring! Very nice! Steve
  13. Thanks, Bill, great photos. It must have been so cool to see Juha's work in person! Steve
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