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sbk

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About sbk

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

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  • Scale I Build
    1/25

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  • Website URL
    http://www.sbkustoms.com/

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lafayette, LA
  • Full Name
    Steve Boutte

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  1. As others said, thin acetate or similar will work. I've used 0.010" clear styrene, .007" clear PVC, & .005" acetate on various models. My favorite is the PVC because it can take pretty heavy duty curves without crazing or clouding up like styrene does. I dig a channel around the opening on the inside of the body for the "glass" to sit in. If that's not possible, I'll glue in a strip of 0.020" x 0.020" styrene strip around the inside opening to create the channel. Sorry, I can't find any of my photos showing that. If you can get the fit of the glass tight in the channel, it should stay in place with little or no glue. But, you may have to sit there & make 5 or more windshields before you finally get one to fit perfectly. Material is cheap, it's just the time factor. The '56 Pontiac had an acetate rear glass & windshield. The '57 Chevy truck had totally messed up windshield & rear window trim that I rebuilt with styrene rod. I used PVC on this one. The fit in some places could have been better, but I left well enough alone. There's a slight distortion when looking through it, but I was also getting that with styrene. Give it a try & see what you can come up with. Steve
  2. Thanks for the coverage, Tim. Almost like being there.
  3. Just beautiful & very "in-scale". Nice to see how it all came together.
  4. Steve, I've been going through every page of this within the last couple of days. So much good stuff in this entire series. From the reworking of the wheels to the firewall rebuilding/detailing, to the interior detailing, engine detailing, etc. So much nicely done scratch building & overall great model building. Plus, the photos are fantastic, super clear & to the point. BTW, the window gasket rendition looks really close to me, although I, too, would be concerned about the longevity of the electrical tape. Who knows, it may not be an issue. Keep pushing, very inspiring to see.
  5. I've chopped a couple, but never sectioned one. I have a step by step of the chop along with other things during the building process on my FB page. https://www.facebook.com/pg/Steve-Boutte-Kustoms-136565936448460/photos/?tab=album&album_id=148890918549295
  6. Flat32, I'm intrigued by your experiments, I hope you figure it out. That carb looks good, is it 1/25? Who did the printing? Thanks, Steve
  7. Great tip, I'll definitely have to try it. Have you ever had your knife cut into the tape guide when you're going into a tighter radius? Thanks,
  8. Looking very nice! I'm curious to see the 3D printed wheel covers. I'm always looking for ways to make some that weren't produced in scale.
  9. Flat32

    Hi Steve,

    Really appreciate your post on fans. Intrigued by the fuel pump and spark plug boots so went to your FB site looking for info and didn't find. Instead blown away by steering wheels and articulated front suspension.

    Question is do you post on another forum??

    Thanks,

    Ray

  10. Okay, Spaz clear didn't work out for me. Instant aluminum. Thanks,
  11. As Casey said, it depends on the model. I think I thinned both sides on this AMT '50 Ford. I know for sure that I used small files & sanding sticks on the back side. Also, the belts on the painted version are made from 3M fine line tape with the adhesive removed, painted flat black. This fan is from the Caddy engine in the Revell 1949 Merc. kit. This photo shows one blade at kit thickness & the others in the process of being thinned. All work was done on the backside of the fan with small files & sanding sticks. Although it's still not as thin as it should be in scale, it's much better than straight from the box.
  12. I agree, it looks very good, but I am not having good results with durability. I tried removing a finger smudge from a part by lightly rubbing with a soft cloth, & the chrome look turned into aluminum. I can do that on a part sprayed with Alclad with no problem. What clear coat works for you? Thanks, Steve
  13. Thanks....it's been a long day. I've been editing this post for the past 15 minutes or so. Hopefully, the version I saved is correct. Yes, I did the masters on all of these.
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