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sbk

Members
  • Content count

    208
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About sbk

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.sbkustoms.com/

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lafayette, LA
  • Full Name
    Steve Boutte
  1. 59 cad sedan de Ville Flattop

    Looking very nice! I'm curious to see the 3D printed wheel covers. I'm always looking for ways to make some that weren't produced in scale.
  2. Hi Steve,

    Really appreciate your post on fans. Intrigued by the fuel pump and spark plug boots so went to your FB site looking for info and didn't find. Instead blown away by steering wheels and articulated front suspension.

    Question is do you post on another forum??

    Thanks,

    Ray

  3. Okay, Spaz clear didn't work out for me. Instant aluminum. Thanks,
  4. As Casey said, it depends on the model. I think I thinned both sides on this AMT '50 Ford. I know for sure that I used small files & sanding sticks on the back side. Also, the belts on the painted version are made from 3M fine line tape with the adhesive removed, painted flat black. This fan is from the Caddy engine in the Revell 1949 Merc. kit. This photo shows one blade at kit thickness & the others in the process of being thinned. All work was done on the backside of the fan with small files & sanding sticks. Although it's still not as thin as it should be in scale, it's much better than straight from the box.
  5. I agree, it looks very good, but I am not having good results with durability. I tried removing a finger smudge from a part by lightly rubbing with a soft cloth, & the chrome look turned into aluminum. I can do that on a part sprayed with Alclad with no problem. What clear coat works for you? Thanks, Steve
  6. casting parts

    Thanks....it's been a long day. I've been editing this post for the past 15 minutes or so. Hopefully, the version I saved is correct. Yes, I did the masters on all of these.
  7. casting parts

    Polytek Plat-Sil 71-11 silicone & 1512X resin is what I have been using for years. Mold making & casting in a 2 gal. pressure tank, no vacuum or mold release needed. The resin is white, color differences are due to the lighting in the photo. Resin copy of a scratchbuilt 1949-1950 Merc. door handle fresh from the mold. The aqua colored thing is the mold. After a little cleanup. Resin copies of scratchbuilt 1949-1950 Ford interior parts. After black enamel & Alclad II chrome. Resin copies of scratchbuilt flipper hubcaps & 1935 Olds side hood trim. Castings come out as smooth & glossy as the patterns are. Steve
  8. 1953 Ford Hotrod

    What paint did you use on the engine block? It almost looks like it's cast in 18k gold. Steve
  9. 1957 Dodge D500 Custom Royal

    Michael, your work is inspiring! Very nice! Steve
  10. K&R Kustoms+Rods "barn find" dry lakes belly tanker

    Wow , very cool!
  11. NNL East 2017............My take!

    Thanks, Bill, great photos. It must have been so cool to see Juha's work in person! Steve
  12. Revell 1960 Chevy

    Yep, very nice work! Those door panels had me studying them for a while.
  13. I'll be there. Tomorrow, I'm meeting up with a few of my friends in TX , & we are driving up Saturday.
  14. This is what I was thinking, too. But, if you do it at the prep stage, there's no turning back later on. A good way to start the scribe would be to use a set of dividers with one needle extending longer than the other. Let the longer needle follow the inner edge the wheel opening, & the other needle will lightly scribe the body parallel to the opening. Unfortunately, some wheel well trim is not parallel all the way around & gets narrower on the ends. With a little practice you can compensate by tilting the dividers a bit to decrease the distance on each end. Then, deepen the line a bit more by using an X-acto knife. Tape seems like a good idea, too. I use dividers a lot for re-scribing door lines to match the shape of a modified side window.