I have used Chrome Tech, LMK, & Bob's Paint "Kustom Khrome". I've had beautiful results from LMK, other times, specks under the chrome plating. Same thing with Chrome Tech USA, some parts outstanding, others with runs or specks. Didn't care for Kustom Khrome, all of the hubcaps that I sent had tiny pieces of lint or something under the chrome. Plus, no plating where it was attached to the rack with "special tape" My modified bumper came back cracked where it was pushed down on that "special tape." Never again. Whenever possible, I send multiples of a part placed on different parts of the rack to hopefully insure getting one very nice piece. Bumpers & grille on this one plated by Chrome Tech. The hubcaps were plated by LMK.
Chrome Tech again for the bumpers & grille on this one.
Peter, One of my friends that lives in the Netherlands sends his parts to this place. I've seen photos of the parts & they look very nice. VPF FlöhaHeinrich-Heine-Str. 509557 FlöhaDeutschlandemail : firstname.lastname@example.org www.vpfgbr.de
26 or 28 ga. bead wire works for me. I bought a spool @ Hobby Lobby many years ago & still have quite a bit. I'm not a fan of diodes or resistors for fuel filters, mainly because they look like diodes & resistors to me.
Bill, Juha wrote a 2 part article in the other magazine that showed what I'm talking about, maybe in 2000 or 2001? He uses Humbrol green & blue metallic enamel, but only uses the clear top portion, none of the metallic particles. Then, he mixes parts of those in with clear & thinner, & brushes it on clear sheet.
I've never used anything but acrylic lacquer thinner for lacquers, enamels & nail polishes. Use a reputable brand, not the cheap hardware store stuff. I have been using DuPont medium temp since the mid '80's, years before I was building model cars.
Looking good! Here's how I did a windshield frame for a 36 Ford. After cleaning up the opening, I added a .015" styrene lip on the inside of the it.
I traced the shape of the opening onto a piece of paper & transferred that to a piece of .015" styrene sheet. I kept sanding the edges until the fit was tight, but did not bind or bend the sheet. I then built a frame around it on the backside using .020" x .060" strip.
Using dividers, I scribed, following the outer edge, making the outline that would later be cut out.
I used a motor tool to grind out the middle portion of the sheet.
Then, cleaned it up with files & sanding
I cut a piece of .010" clear PVC sheet to fit in the opening as "glass".
I got the idea to do this from Rik Hoving. Go to this link & scroll to pic 108. http://public.fotki.com/Rikster/model_cars/projects/40_ford_project/page2.html