RickRollerLT1

Whats happening is you might be applying too much gloss white to cover the gray. A gloss color is "thinner" than a flat color due to the amount of thinner in the paint mix. Therefore, it could run or cause uneven aeras on the painted surface. What I find works is after the coat of gray primer, spray some flat white so it covers over the gray, then apply the gloss white so it gets an even shine/gloss. By doing this, you won't have to apply much of the glossy color to cover the gray primer because there is a surface that matches the color your applying over it. This works for gloss black over flat black, red over pink, sliver over black, and so on.

Purple Power works wonders! After stripping application it may leave some flat/non-shiny spots, but a polish with toothpaste then a coat of future, it can bring the clear shine back up!

I'm now finishing that one as I type! Got it at a car show last fall for $5.

What we both said.

This is because you used it over the Model Master paint, which takes almost a week to dry throughly. I've applied it over other paints, and takes about 4 days to dry fully.

Looks like a factory defect, but are commomly called "short shots". I've have had and seen worse, but this dosen't look too hard to fix. I'd say it can be saved with plastic strip, losta bondo/filler, and some scribing around the door lines to match. I had a sealed 70 Challenger kit given to me and the body had the full HALF of the rear end missing! It could not be fixed at all, but luclky I had a spare so things were all good.

All of the reissues including the current Daisy Duke car don't have the RR bird decal. Because it's the Loony Tunes licence, which is a seperate product licence that they must pay for.

This is why I haven't blown $120 (yet) on an airbrush + components. Too much of a PTA!!! I've seen ppl churn out some superb stuff that were apinted with airbrush, but I know someone in my club that has a Testors Az(z)teck and he told me it takes about 25min to prep it for use (cleaning, disattaching, cleaning, dissataching, airspray test, mixing colors, remixing colors, etc.). I actually saw a demestration of an airbrush ata LHS once, and the part the owner was painting white was spitting out white goop and he said he spent an hour preparing it, mixing, calbrateing, etc.

BTW, I think I still have some parts from the Donks version of this I built some time ago. I heard the suspension components from the '93 Caprice/94 Impala SS will adapt without too much work for a normal hight/stock version.

Isin't this the DONKS Cadillac Custom last seen 4yrs ago, but with new lowrider parts? Does anyone know the history of this kit?

Hi there, I will be attending NNL east. Are you setting up a table? What room will you be in? Also, I checked your Fotki page and no prices or discriptions are listed for the stuff you have on there. Any Idea on how much the stuff is?

Rather than using the movie car kit with the poorly made film-specific parts, and mush soft plastic that crazes. I decided to use the 1996 issue of the Mustang since it has the correct flat hood and is molded in better plastic that wont craze. I ommited most of the stock parts and added the folowing: Motor from a diecast "Street Tuners" Skyline, but I made the single trubo setup as the film car had, added an intercooler, and used the tranny from the 'Stang. Used wheels + brakes from an X-mods wheel set, and tires from a Masito diecast Made a new rear suspension close to the film car, plus lowered the front so it dosent sit like a 4X4 Scratchbuilt an single exhaust like the film car, used the muffler from the aftermentioned skyline diecast Used most of the stock interior, but added nirtrous bottles in the back Cut the kits molded in grille out and replaced it with mesh I found a set of white stirpes from all things, a Revell Miata kit, and they worked! I didn't use apply the stripes to the roof because I found it would look too cheesy. TBH, I think its gives it some contrast not having stripes cover all the aeras. Keep in mind this is NOT a 100% accurate replica (as with the USA licence plate and some small things), and I had minor assembly issues which may explain some errors in fitiment & assembly in some parts. Minor faults withstanding, i'm very happy with how this one came out, and I think this is a much better take than what RC2s product design department came up with on the actual kit. Hope you enjoy and please comment! Sorry for some of the blurry shots, my sister did somehing to the camera and now it does ######! Please bear with me as its going to take time undo the confusing setting changes that she made.

That Cobra kit on the bottom is the Fujumi kit IIRC, right? Also the name of the anime this ones from is a weird one called "You Are Under Arrest". I remember seeing a Ford GT40 and a Skyline R33 in the series too.

...still thinks its a bad porno spoof.

BTW, I saw this show too.... almost like american crapper, but with moar screaming, whining and gradeschool-like drama. Should we call it "Jesse James Garbage Garage"? That would be so funnny! Cause he speicalizes in garbage and turns it into polished garbage, while his crew acts and talks like garbage!

Torque? Sounds like ether a crappy Hollywood Knights remake or that ungodly Fast & Furious porno spoof.

Fast & Furious 5: Search3n 4 mo4r c8sh

Ever heard about the $999 first issue monogram '53 corvette w/ diecast body someone had a while back. JEEZ LUIESE!!!!

Funny thing is I remember on some weird anime show called "Serious Black", I saw what definitely looked like a Camaro station wagon that had some woman driving it. IIRC, the scene played out as the woman was putting furniture in her car (she was jamming it in there with "power attacks), and some pervert touched her romp, then she hit him in the nads, then got into her car and mowed the him down with blood all over the car. Weird and sick, but funny scene! Does anyone remember this?

I was reading the obscure kits thread, and someone mentioned that this oddity was going to be reissued. Whats the background of this kit? Is this a good kit or a crappy one? Is it decently detailed or is it typical MPC molded in junk? Does it assemble well or is filddy like MPC's show customs of the period? This thang looks kinda cool for some car wicked hauler. If it's a good kit and worth the $35 they'll probably charge for it, does anyone know a release date and what engine it contains? I cant find anything about this kit on R2's site

+90000 Mike!! Once at AC Moore, I was on a line that was held up because a mother was shocked that her sons Knects set came up $129.99 rather than $59.99 as she thought was that price. Her credit card was invalid and only had $70 on hand. As ppl infront of me were getting grouchy and inpaitent, I decided to step up and give her a 50% off coupon bringing it down to to about $65, which was just perfect for what she was going to spend. She was asking me about coupons and how they work, and being she was so happy about what I did for her (and for other inpatient people on line), she gave me the remaining $5 (which I tried to not accept at first) she had and a hug ( ).

I myself have gotten alot of kits that had bonuses, other extras, different parts, or sometimes, an unexpected surprise! I once bought a Revell Peterbilt 359 from Michaels that contained a free issue of SA (the Sep '11 issue) along with a subscription fill-out forum under the instruction sheet. Being I allready had that issue, I brought it to the club mtg to give away as a frebee, then a member wanted to pay cover price for my unused copy cause his got coffee spilt all over it from the LHS owner when he was reading it, but only took $2 off cover price for his own sloppy mistake! So along with paying $12 for a truck model and an issue of SA, I made back about $6 off the mag. Another time was where I bought an open '04 AMT GTO on clearence for a buck with coupon @ Michaels. The box was s**t crammed packed and was heavily taped up. As I was curious with what used napkins or poor built-ups were in there, taking a peek would be difficult without having them think I was gonna steal it!. After paying for it, I opened the sucker up and along with the kit being mostly complete, contained an Monogram '69 Super Bee kit sealed in the bags crammed in along with: - 15 bottles of Testors paint in various colors, but luckly the ones I use alot - 50 Testors brushes - 5 tubes of glue - Two sets of '22 wire wheels w/ tires, I believe from Revellograms '86 Monte Carlo - and lastly, i'm not kidding here guys, a RUBBER DUCKY toy! Quack Quack!!! At that price, shiz here is a steal!

Purple Power.

Thats because they used the stock dash from the panal van kit, which has some different parts. The 1994 release, which was the first retool of the kit, contains a different modular dashboard which the decal was ment for (decals date to the '94 release). Somehow they must've mixed tooling between the last release of the pickup (2005; Basic Buliders) and panal van (2008 Revell AG boxed issue of Harely Davidson Van made in CHINA of course!) because some parts from the latter kit, such as the tri-carb intake, panal van windows, different side pipes, and stock dash are present (but no modluar dash), as previous releases of the P/U omitted them. I susgest modfying the unit you got or scratchbuilding one, or if you must, get an '94 older release of the P/U that (should) contain the correct part.

The problem here is the Rustoluem clear, while enamal based, contains a different formula that uses hotter and stronger cemicals. The color you said you applied was Testors colors by Boyds enamal, which is a hobby grade paint for model styrene use and is cemicaly "softer". So "hotter, over "softer" can lead to major issues that can be avoided with the right painting steps. If you use a hobby-grade paint as a primer/color coat, then the color must be within the same formula/grade. EG: Testors over Testors, Tamiya over tamiya, etc. But if you use a "hotter" paint over the "softer" paint, like Rustoluem, Krylon, Colorplace, Valspar & so on. THIS IS A NO-NO!! However, you can apply say, the hotter paint then the softer one over it and you'll get good resolts (but remember about what paint types that can be applied over one another, such as enamal, acrylic, lacquer, the like) Heres one more hint, on the next primed (or reprimed) body, apply a coat of the hotter grade primer of your choise that wont craze the plastic, then hit it with the color coat (ether hobby or hotter), then the hobby paint of your choice and the clear, but THAT MUST match up with the brand of the hobby paint or formula grade or you'll get problems again. Or, you can go to your local supermarket or department store and in the cleaning sections, pick up a bottle o' some Pledge floor wax with future shine (AKA, the famous future everyone uses on here). This stuff is acrylic based, but can be applied almost over anything and every surface. And can be applied from the bottle with a cotton ball, q-tip, brush, or as some people do it, with an airbrush at high PSI or whatever works for you. The stuff is watery, but with quick even coats it can get the job done. One thing you must watch out for when using Future, SPIDER CRACKS on the surface! This happens when the paint underneath is not fully cured enough (usealy happens with testors and most enamals; must be cured for almost 3 weeks before applying future), or when the uncoated surface is greasy or contains other containminates to form a reaction with the future.