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Posts posted by RickRollerLT1

  1. Andy, if you take a rag with toothpaste on it, it will dull out the chrome shine to an aluminum finish... along with making the serface smoother.

    Most slivers (even ones marked metalic sliver or flat/dull aluminum) do this, I dinno why but if you want a more realstic finish, try the methiod I mentioned above.

  2. Andy, if your ona cheap budget like me, I got some hints that'll help you out!

    -If you want a good, cheap primer. Go to your local Sears Hardware and look for something called "Quick 'n Easy" Gray primer. This stuff Is awesome!! Drys quick, gos on smooth and doesn't harm the plastic on any applaction. It only costs a $1.69 and is like Tamiya primer and all the other ones, but in a bigger can and costs less than half than of the others I mentioned.

    -For basic colors, the Wal-Mart/Colorplace paints are really good for basic colors. They have flat black, gloss black, gloss white, flat white, red, blue, a dark green thats really nice, and a few more i'm missing (stay away from their gray primer, nasty stuff!) in 12oz cans for .98! How could you go wrong? They are better quality than testors basic enamals for that matter (which are expensive, and are less than stellar quality)

    -Krylon, Valspar, Rustoluem, Duplicolor, Tamiya, and the Testors lacquers (different from their enamals - which is a good thing) are good too (don't use their primers on bare styrene- they'll craze plastic), but I find that if you use the cheap paints that work for you for the base colors/primer, than the other brand for the top color not only your saving money but your getting better results.

    -For Clearing, I strongly reccomend Future floor wax (also called Pledge Floor Wax with Future Shine). Can be applied to any serface/paint via airbrush, paint brush, foam brush, q-tips, or sometimes cottonballs. At first, it looks like your brushing on testors clear, but after an hour it dries like you applied a clear coat.

    It an be applied inside and has a nice, frutty smell, and can be removed with windex or water if it isn't good enough for you.

    If you're good with clear coats, than I salude you good luck with those because i've had awfull experiences with them due to fogging, crazing, orange peel, and the like.

    If you need to remove residue or give the body/part a deeper shine, I use good ol' white toothpaste and that does the trick really well. If you polish future with it, you'll get an even deeper, nicer shine.

    For stripping, just recently I started to use Purple Power ina rubbermade bowl to soak my failled paint jobs for about 2 days to 3 weeks, depending on the type of paint, how many coats were applied, and how old it is.

    Hope this helps, and good luck!

  3. I probably mentioned this allready. But IIRC, AMT/ERTL released an actual plastic Vanishing Point 70 Challenger kit around 2003 or so. The box car had what appeared to be a coupe body w/a flat RT hood retooled from the Yankie kit (which explains it's presence it the JL issue - TNX Bruno) and had a horrible recreation of a 440 in one of the shot photos.

    Though the box car showed it asa coupe, the person who built the model modified the convertable top (because being the test shot kit was still a convertable) and a few other things to dispect the movie car.

    Though it still was a convertable, it had 2 tops - a newly tooled hardtop and the ragtop (w/boot still included) - So it can be built asa coupe without modfying the ragtop.

    Along with the parts for the VP car, this one still had the all the parts from the TA and Yankie Challange kits, which makes this issue a 3-in-1... such as the TA Shaker hood w/shaker, the RT hood with the hole from the Yankie kit, a 425 HEMI w/blown, F/I or stock options, and side pipes/wheels/tires speific to that kit.

    The 440 parts are new to that issue I believe, but the problem is they look horrible and are undersized because those parts go over the 425 motor.

    If you want the AMT kit to work that has a hardtop you can modify, and a flat hood, this one would be the way to go.

    If I missed anything, correct me. I've never built the VP variant, i've heard stuff about it, but only built the JL issue and the 1981 matchbox issue.

    But be warned, this issue was only released in very limited quanites makeing it EXTREMELY RARE and commanding huge bucks whenever seen for sale. I know this kit exsists because i've seen a couple appear on ebay here and there, but be prepared to pay $40-100 if ya really one.

  4. Wow! They send you a AMT kit inside a MPC box? Thats BULL&*#*&!!!

    I overheard someone at the 2010 NNL East telling a story like that that happened to them. What happened was he ordered a AMT 69 Buick Rivera kit (2005 issue) from an online site brand new & sealed. When he got it and opened it up, it turns out to be the General Lee kit inside!! :huh: :huh: He couldn't return it because of RC-screwups no return policy... but they told him to keep the one that had the DOH kit inside, and they sent another '69 Riv kit opened, but containing the right model inside.

    Imagine what a Dukes 69 Rivera would look like! :lol: :lol:

  5. Allright, I tired some of them out on some spare parts I had kicking around. I find that on the parts that are allready painted, it covers the serface MUCH better than it would on a bare plastic part as Joseph mentioned. (TNX for the tip!)

    But depending on the color of the painted part and the acrylic paint, it may not cover so well on some bases. For example, if the color of the part painted is black but the water-based paint color is white or anything bright, the previous color will show through the acrylic paint.

    Funny thing is one time ata LHS, they bragged that acrylic water-based paints (Eg. Testors/Model Master) don't need a base coat underneath. But I heard from another you DO NEED a basecoat or the plastic/color underneath will show thorugh. Is that right?

    Well anyways, guess the .50 I paid was worth it to some extent.

  6. Hi, I just picked up a tona these from Michaels for .50 ea!... Yes, 50. a piece. Got about 16 of them for $9.00 total (regluarly 2.99 ea, woulda been alot more if regluar price nonoftheless a coupon added)

    Are these any good? I've worked with (craft brand) water based acrylics a few times before, so I know the procedures to working with them.

    Any anwsers would be lots appreicated!

  7. Here's an example of another one of Hollywood Jim's build (a master of T.O.B.):

    Jim is always thinking Tiki, and he and Ricky Couch are a few of the builders I know of who are crazy about Tiki, so, Jim pulled this one together:


    His work is always fresh and new because often time you get the feeling you haven't seen anything like this done in scale.

    Hey Virgil, is that the Lindberger 1/20th Kit yu used. Looks cool, but may take time for me to get used to that face. :mellow:

  8. The recently issued 1/25TH scale Revell 70' Challenger 2-in-1 (which has parts for an RT & TA and is based off a diecast tool) should do if you don't mind the chunky slab-sidedness of the body, and an axle through the engine block.

    AMT made a Vanishing Point Challenger from their Matchbox-era kit, but it's still the convertable and has a horrible recreation of a 440 & a 426. Though it has decent body proportions, you could sand the top, glue it to the body, fill the gaps and call it that.

    For an engine, i'd source one out from ether the AMT 71 Charger, or the AMT/MPC 69 GTX/Road Runner/70' Super Bee kits.

  9. Apparently you didn't see that Gregg locked the ongoing jokes thread that was already going here???

    I saw that one got closed, but shouldn't we have a little fun without fighting or complaning, rather than have this turn into boot camp? Then there would be MORE people complaing about the rules and the limits they get than it would be now.

    I'm not trying to start anything, but i'm just saying, even with tighter rules and restrictions or not ppl will still find a way 'round the electro-shock barricade.

    I haven't been on here lately due to life dutys, WIPS, collage, etc. But whenever I visit, ether something allways changes, topics get locked or removed, or ppl complain 'bout how the shape of the fender is wrong, or the color is the site is pink.

    Can't we all get along?

  10. I dunno if this allready exsists on here (been a while).

    Whatever you guys do, keep the jokes going but PLEASE keep them clean, and for the love of god, NO complaining/fighting or any stuff like that. Thats been going on 'round here lately due to the evergoing facepalm wars raging on all over the place.

    Think of whatever comes to mind, can be anything really.

    Heres som KLEAN funny qoutes:

    (From Zero Wing)


    (From some weird anime called "Super Milk Chan)




  11. Nice Jeep you got there.

    Like everyone else said, aside from the faults we see (which aren't that many) you have the high potential to be a master modeler one day.

    (Heck, looks like you have a better start than I did)

    BTW, not to hijack this thread or anything. But i'd like to show off my CJ-7 I did a few months ago.

    Mostly box stock, aside from adding a HEMI motor from a '32 Ford 5 window kit.

    I even left the kits molded color on the body, being there were no inperfictions or swril marks. Then I sanded off the mold lines and whatever other junk, and just applied future floor wax on it.






    I left the doors off because they were a pain to get right due to warpage (maybe because mine is an older issue while yours is a newer release which should have a better casting)

  12. IIRC, the J. Lloyd Company (which houses the Hawk/Lindberg brands) owns a part of RPM (the company that owns Testors, Rustoluem, etc.). Which explains the Testors Charger in the Lindberg box abit with some cosmetic changes, and the Lindberg/Hawk/Pryo '25 T in diecast form under the Testors Metal-Kit series (the one thats red w/flames on the cover).

    Correct me if im worng, but the Testors/Lindberg Charger RT & Daytona kits first started out life in the hobby exclusive "Lincoln Mint" diecast kit series (along with the 69 GTO and a few other) crica 2007-ish. Then after those Lincoln Mint barely sold anything, they reboxed the RT and Daytona diecasts in mass retail form (along with adding a Police car to the lineup - which explianes the parts found in the LIndberg kit). Then they let Lindberg use the tooling to versions of the SRT-8 and the Police cars in all-plastic form.

  13. Depending on the subject of what I'm asking/looking for, I go to here because you guys know alot more than what (most) internet searches comes up with...though sometimes, I perform a searches on the internet for info, shops, and how to's.

    I use Norton Safe Search because I don't trust Google. My Sister while looking coupons for Dove soap via Google Images, and had a Trojankillerapp - Type.B try to attack her computer (Norton blocked it tnx god).

  14. Say I gots me an cheapie aribrush at some point, and if I didn't like changeing/cleaning out the bottles for different paint applacaitions 'cause it takes too much time, or whatever. Would I be able to first paint the body/items by spray can, then apply custom color appilaction OVER the body/part painted with the spray can? Hopefully that shouldn't cause too much problems such as cracking or lifting (other paint fourmula types may prolly have a play in that factor)]

    While we're on the topic of airbrushs, i'd like to ask a few more questions:

    Is the Testors Aztek airbrush any good? Or should I skip it and get an Iwata or something better? Because AC Moore had the Aztek airbrush $160, and if it's good i'll pick it up someday @ half-off w/ a coupon.

    Also, do they make replacement aribrush bottles incase I lose mine, or if it breaks or can'tgetitopen.

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