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RickRollerLT1

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Posts posted by RickRollerLT1

  1. That's no longer available, as Sears discontinued carrying paint about a year ago, and K-Mart has went to carrying Rustoleum and Platicoat.

    I know the regluar sears stores don't havea paint section any more, but sears hardware and K-mart do and they both have the "quick & easy" line at their stores. I last picked up some primer at sears hardware a week ago with fresh stock, so they're definitly still produceing them.

    I dunno, maybe the stores in your aera don't carry them anymore because making money off hot, teen idol products is more importaint to them.

  2. The Dollar Store (Dollar Tree) sells their own water-based cleaner that I've found to be every bit as good as Purple Power, Simple Green, etc.

    It's yellow in color, called, "La's Totally Awesome".

    For the unbelievable low price of a buck, you get the best spray bottle I've ever found, with little grippy ridges at the top that keep the bottle from sliding out of your hand when wet, filled with 20 fl. oz. of cleaner. The refill bottles are even larger, but don't include the sprayer.

    I've been using one of the sprayers for about six years now and it still sprays as good as it did when new.

    I've used the cleaner to de-grease automotive parts, as well as household items.

    That's good to know, but sadly i don't have a dollar tree near me.

  3. Sadly, I don't think we'll be seeing any tamiya paints for a while (I liked the candy green they had). My LHS still has some tamiya paints, but his supply is getting low and hasen't seen anything from them (including the primers) since March. IIRC, one HS I went to a while back had a few cans left for around 15-20 bucks!! (Yikes!)

    I'd suggest looking for an good alternitive primer if paying $20-30 a pop for tamiya primer isn't for you, or your wallet. (if it is and you gotta have it, then go ahead)

    I've heard many people had great results from Dupicolor, Plastikote, and (some) Rustoluem primers. But if you're on a tight paint budget and looking for very cheap good alternitives (though the latter ones arent so much, but in more units the $$$ adds up). I use Sears "Quick & Easy" Gray primer. It works very well over bare styrene, sprays on nicely and drys quick & smooth (almost no sanding needed); cheap ($1.70 for a 12oz can) and easy to get at yer nearest K-mart or Sears Hardware store. They also had white and red primers, which are no longer being produced anymore (sniff, sniff... I really liked them too). But Flat White (I use the colorplace brand, which works very well) works as a bright basecoat for gloss white, yellows, reds, blues and so on/

    If you like it, you can stock up on 12 cans that will last you a long way for less than $16! which is the price of Tamiya primer if you can find it.

  4. Nope ... both the Hudson and the 300 will have MSRPs in the $30 range.

    Good, but still a bit too pricey for me. I'll wait till an LHS has it for $25 or less, or hopeing (but i'm not gonna count my chicken on it) that Michaels or AC Moore will (not likely) carry it in the next 6 years!!

  5. Really awesome stuff!!! I find it works much faster and is safer than DOT-3. Had a '70 camaro kit that was missing the body, but then I realized I had one from a junk build many years ago.

    So I found the oldie camaro body that was painted with Colorplace Kelly Green n the bare body that crazed badly, then cleared with Krylon Krystal Krappy Klear and made things worse. So I let it sit in the purple bath for a day or so, and the body was gray plastic again with no damage to it whatsoever from the paint!

    I've soaked bodys in the Purple pond that were painted with Testors, Tamiya, Rustoluem, Valspar, Dutchboy, Sears Primer, and Colorplace paints and they came off very quickly with no ill effects at all (even takes off bottle painted material no prob).

    This is a very good alternitive to Easy off oven cleaner, which I don't like using as a paint stripper because it's smells AWFULL!! and dosen't work as well as DOT-3 and PP.

  6. On Monday my Dad & I spotted a Tuesday Morning store, so we went in and they had a few AMT/ Stevens International kits left. They were:

    Li'l Yeller

    Li'l Mixer

    27' Ford T Touring Police Car

    "Mount 'N Goat" 70's Jeep Commando

    Grabed'em all for $6.00 each!! (about $25 for all w/ tax)

    The first 3 were the only ones they had left, but IIRC they still had a few more Jeep Commandos too.

    On that same day we stopped at a Wal-Mart to pick up some flat black, and all the paints were sold out...sans 6 Flat Blacks and a Rustoluem Metalic copper they had marked down to $2.00. So that reallty made my monday.

    Sorry I didn't post this eariler because my sister had the lappy, and that I don't hav pics because she is using the camera for a bit.

  7. Just yer average Jeep...

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    WITH A BADAZ HEMI!!!!

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    You can see the transfer case mated up to the motor perfectly:

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    Let's see this thang REALLY plow through the land now!

    Allright, now for the rest of the spcifications:

    This is the Monogram kit dated from 1978, in which recent issues were released Revell (the release I got is the Revell "Complete" series issue, which was molded in yellow and had paints and glues).

    Mostly box stock cept for the HEMI motor which came from the '32 Ford 5 Window coupe.

    Went together well, but the installing the doors are a PAIN IN THE U-KNOW WHERE!! So I left them out and made it like the off road version (which some of the parts were ommited from this release)

    The Body was molded pretty good and with barely any swril marks on the yellow plastic, I decided to leave the molded color and apply future over it to call it a day (though everything else was painted obviously).

    Hope you enjoy!

  8. The only thing I can say about not using primer with the Testors Laquers is that some platics do react with it. Nothing serious, but I have had a few times where the draft lines in the plastic will show up in the finish. Older AMT plastic seems to do it the worst, especially if a metallic color is used.

    Yeah, same thing happened to me one when I painted a Revell 07 Shelby GT500 with OCL (one coat lacquer) White Lightning over the plastic years ago. I find it's best to use primer first, then the color coats so it dosen't bleed through the lacquer color, and finaly shot it over with the OCL color of my choice.

  9. As i've previously mentioned, the krylon paints are good as long as you use a different primer and base colorcoat undeneath...and avoid their primers and clears! I seemed to have really bad luck with the primer as it crazes all bare styrene it touches. Along with their clears (any tipe; even the crystal clears) as it melts through the paint & primer, and attacks the plastic so bad it's impossible to strip off!! Even their clear on the krylon color topping with the wal-mart paint and the sears primer coat underneath still did it!

    Also, I've heard most krylon paints WILL melt through Tamyia and Testors primer coats and eat up the plastic. So like everyone else said, use a good primer (sears, duplicolor, plastikote and etc), do good prep work and you'll be OK.

    One time when I desprately needed a flat black 'kauz the wallymart waz out of it'!!, so I had to resort to krylons flat black. I tired it on a test part, ans BOY let me tell you something! on bare plastic it WILL melt some parts of the plastic!! and gives you that effect of when you applied too much glue to the underside of a part and it makes a pit/dent in it! Talk about ultimate he-double-hockey-sticks!! But luckly it was on a spare hood that I had OVER 9000 spares of (sorry, just had to get that famous DBZ line out).

  10. Pam cooking spray also works good for a cheap mold release agent. I think I picked a can of the Walmart brand cooking spray for maybe a dollar or two.

    One more cheap trick from my file, aluminum foil and a spray on glue works nicely for cheap BMF, especially if you are doing large areas like I did on the side and roof of this trailer.

    HPIM1580.jpg

    Here's the glue I used for it.

    HPIM1578.jpg

    The nice thing with using aluminum foil, especially in this case, is you have a choice of two finishes, I used the shiny side for the side walls and the dull side for the roof. I did learn, since that was my first attempt using aluminum foil, make sure to coat the foil evenly with the glue, I didn't do that on the roof and sprayed it a little too thin, and the foil bubbled where I didn't have enough glue sprayed on it. WHOOPS!!! ;)

    HPIM1576.jpg

    WOW! That trailer looks good!! That trick looks like a good alternitive to buying 10 packs of BMF to foil a large aera. Guess I should give the craft bond stuff a try next time I stop at Michaels, along with packing up a huge dollar pack of foil at the supermarket.

  11. I've heard this stuff will craze VERY BADLY on bare plastic, and possibly ruin it to the point where it's unstripable!

    If you have a K-mart or a Sears Hardware store next to you, i'd reccomend using their "Quick & easy" Gray primer as it WON'T harm the plastic in any way. Also, it covers very well and drys fast, is cheap ($1.69) and easy to get.

    If you want to use the Rustoluem primer over it for better coverage, you could apply the sears primer first, and then the rustoluem primer because it has a serface to bond to.

  12. TNX guys fer your comments; just wish this one got more replies then being abandoned like all my other builds previuosly posted.

    Thanks for correcting me on the Mystic Cobra Whale392. If you notice i'm not very good with remembering some of the later model stangs and etc.

  13. Krylon paints can be good if you use the right paint and primer underneath...but do not use their primers on bare styrene as they craze the plastic and is near impossible to strip off.

    I use sears gray primer, folowed by the color desired coat of wal-mart/colorplace paint, then the krylon color of my choice. Then I polish the painted body with white toothpaste, and I tackle it with 1 or 2 coats of pledge future floor wax with a foam brush. Doing this get very nice results with out having to deal with nasty clear coats, bad testors enamal sprays, or crazing for that matter.

    Though sometimes, I find that if you put a coat of sears primer as a sealer coat first, then applying krylon or any other brand primer ontop, you'll get even better coverage and a smoother serface for the next color coat to bite onto with out having any crazing issues whatsover.

    Here's some of my cars I painted using the krylon paints using these methiods, which were polished and futured.

    The '41 Ford Woody was painted in Banner Red & the '61 Impala in Leather brown w/ Boot Tan on the interior.

    The '64 Thunderbolt is painted in True Blue & the '68 Dart HEMI (which you've all previously seen) is in Sun Yellow

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  14. Regluar Krylon & their fusion paint on bare plastic WILL craze like no tommorow! Same goes for other paints like Rustoluem, Valsapr, the glossy colorplace colors (flats seem to work a-OK), and etc.

    ...But if you got a good primer underneath, they work wonders and save you money for colors you could get in bigger amounts (though there's also Automotive paints and many ppl have excellent results with them (i'm yet to try them)

    A good cheap primer I would reccomend would be Sears brand "quick & easy" gray primer (can be found at Sears stores, Sears hardware and K-mart); I've put almost every brand paint over it and NEVER had problems with crazing or compatabiltiy issues. At a $1.69 for a 12oz can that lasts a good amount fer what ya get, how could you lose?

    Weird thing is, the primer they have is good, but the rest of the colors they have in the line are awful. It's also like that with the wal-mart paints, their primer is no good, but the colors are awesome over the Sears primer.

    Warning: if out think you should use brand A's primer with brand A's color, DO NOT use Krylon's, Rustoluem's, and Valspar's primers on bare plastic! From my exprience with them, they CRAZE very BADLY and their "Plastic formulated" stuff is the same thing, only with "Plastic" labeled on the can. Though sometimes I find that if you apply the sears primer first then the other brand primer, not only you avoid crazing but you'll get good coverage and a smooth serface for the next coat to bite onto.

    Though i'm not saying the're all bad, But again I find that if you mix and match paints (such as the wal-mart paint over the sears primer trick) that works very well.

    I hope you guys find this info helpfull and useable.

  15. This one marks the first time I used the Rustoluem Colorshift paint on - she looks great! (expeicaly with future on top)

    Mods - Mostly OOB with the exception of mag wheels from the 06 GT-H kit, and a custom supercharger setup

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    These pics are where you can see the true depth of the paint:

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    Chassis/engine shots:

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    Enjoy!

    Note: this dosen't dispect a REAL 1.1 Mystic Corba (which is a tad different from the regluar cobras), but rather a '99-03 Cobra someone customized wit a supercharger & other performance goodies, wheels, and the Preizmatic paint to save $40.000 on the real deal :):lol:B).

  16. Sorry it took so long to get pics up... waz really busy the other day:

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    It doesn't look as good in the pics due to lighting and various settings my sister changed on the camera, but to the eye it looks superb!

    I used Sears gray primer, folowed by wal-mart/colorplace black, then the colorshift paint. I'm surprised it turned out well being I "crossed-over" paint brands.

    I've only seen it at Lowes...though when I was at an AC Moore last weekend picking up the '02 Stang, they had the Colorshift galaxy blue @ $23.99! (Half used :lol:)

    I'd consider buying it up there, but with the coupon it would be a tad more than what lowes charges and I could get as much as I want at Lowe's "everyday" pricing (and not have it be almost empty)

    Also, the spray paints at AC Moore(s) are a mess of trippy grafiti #### all over the wall (Though they have the clerks wondering around the store like their in outer space or something). Even lowes takes better care of their paints and you don't need to give yer ID or blood sample to buy them.

  17. i've been recently trying out Rustoluem's Spray cans out of curiosity, and have been really pleased with the results (exspeicaly the Colorshift paint).

    They are around the same price league as testors and tamiya, but you get more for yer buck. They last longer; sprays better and smoother, no lumps, bubbles, or "heavy snake skin"; really good color slection.

    Only thing is when you use rustoluem, you NEED a good primer underneath or it will craze the plastic.

    I just painted a 02 Mustang SVT Cobra in Rustoluem Colorshift Galaxy Blue because i'm going to (Try to) replacate the RARE "Mystic Cobra" mustangs thy made. The color is a dead ringer for the 1.1 car and it looks really nice. I'll get pics of the body up later...

    What surprises me is that Rustoluem is owned by RPM - who also owns testors. So maybe tesotrs should refourmulate their horrid enamal sprays closer to rustomuems specs or like their one coat lacquers stuff.

  18. Not today, but on Saturday I went to lowes and picked up a can of Rustoluem Colorshift spray paint in Galaxy Blue... It waz $13.97; a tad pricey, but better than tracking down the now-defunked Duplicolor Mirage stuff. I haven't tired it out yet, but I've used other Rustoleum colors and had great suscuss with them over the paints I use, so I think it will work fine.

    No pics of what I got, but here's a link to Rustoluem's website for the product they have:

    http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=463

    So far i've seen it at Lowes. Other retailers that stock Rustolum brands may carry the Colorshift paint, but the price may vary by retailer.

  19. ... Most people swear at Testors sprays! B)

    :lol: :lol:

    I agree with you guys on the testors and model master enamal sparys, they're horrible!!! (cept the lacquers and bottles because those work well)

    There are so many better and cheaper alternitives like Duplicolor, Plastikote, Valspar, Krylon, Rustolium, Tamiya (more than testors, but better quality paint overall), the list goes on.

    Heck, even the Wal-Mart colorpalce paints are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better for base colors (Flats and Glosses such as black, white, red, blue, green and etc.) then testors, because:

    Pricewise-

    Colorplace - .97

    Testors enamal spray - 4.79 ans it's not even good!!!

    Quality and quanity -

    Colorplace - Does a good job with the right primer (will get to that soon), and dries smooth and quick; lasts for a good amount and cheap as oats.

    Testors enamal spray - Lumpy and bubbly; horrible nozzle; barely lasts for one car/part if you can get it on properly; like paying $5.00 for a used pair of jeans someone "missed" in.

    I tried their (testors) primer once and YEEEEUCK!!! It looked like dinosaur skin or something like that. I also tried colorplace primer, but it crazes the plastic. So one day I was stumbling at the local sears hardware in their spray paint section and they had a line of paints under the "Quick and Easy" line; all of them were mediocore except the gray and red oxide primers which work REALLY well over plastic, with no crazing whatsoever. Applies nice, thick, smooth, ans is cheap too ($1.69 - can't beat that for a good cheap primer)

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