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Posts posted by RickRollerLT1

  1. I have bodies that are molded in red (like the Monogram '85 Fiero GT and the Revell '93 Firebird Trans Am SnapTite) and would like to paint them a bright color like White or Light Blue. Yes, I prime my bodies (K-Mart Quick and Easy Gray Primer, almost flawless results otherwise) and yada yada, but I have experienced in the past the red molded color spectrum (like dark red, pink, etc) bleeds through turning giving a pinkish hue (bleed through).

    This also occurs with Yellow and bright Greens too, also giving a yellowish bleedthrough. I have done many topic searches and tried many tricks, including one of spraying silver or flat brown as a neutral color on the body then primer and the color, bleedthrough would still occur at the silver or the even the gray primer coat. I even tried the Future trick, as not only it still bleed through the primer but it reacted with the Future coat that fully dried for 3 days, causing severe wrinkling. I even got a can of Duplicolor Automotive Primer/Sealer and while that seemed to do the trick, it caused such severe crazing on the Firebird body that sanding and additional coats made it worse (It should strip off, hopefully).

    Are there any proven ways to overcome this paintbump? At worst, I could paint the other one red or black and use a spare white molded Firebird/TA body for my project. But when I do future projects molded in red and yellow and want to paint them bright colors without bleedthrough hues, then without spare white molded bodies I'd be SOL unless its gonna be black or matching the molded color.

  2. It's not the fault of the customers who "don't support the LHS". I'm sick of that kind of thinking. How much does the LHS sell 1/2 oz bottles of Testors enamel paint for? $3.99 is about the going rate in my area. I pay $5.49 for 8oz of Rustoleum. 

    Testors per OZ= $7.98

    Rustoleum per OZ= $0.69

    Here's another,

    Testors thinner and brush cleaner 1.75 oz= $3.98 or $2.27 per oz

    Typical hardware store low odor mineral spirits 1 gal=  $9.92 or $0.08 per oz

    These are only 2 tiny examples of the multitude of overpriced hobby specific items. And are true apples to apples comparisons. But in my opinion the Rustoleum brand is superior in every way to Testors. Rustoleum dries much faster. the plain mineral spirits also work better than Testors thinner and brush cleaner, in any of the forms testors markets it.

    So let me get this straight I'm the one trying to get over on my LHS?  I will support my LHS for certain items but not when I know the price is over inflated.

    In mass production packaging differences do not come anywhere close to making up the differences in these two examples, and while I understand it isn't the LHS that sets the price these are the products they offer. It's false economy to buy products so grossly over priced.

    I agree with 100% of this post! I putt down to the LHS's for certain kits and paints (the latter mainly Tamiya) no other retailer has. But it is wise to find alternatives modeling paint/tools at the big retailers and hardwares stores, which are cheaper for more quantity and in most cases, provide the same results as the 5x priced speicalty hobby brand that is of lesser quantity. For example, if Tamiya gray primer if near $20 for just ONE 6oz friggin can and Quick and Easy brand primer sold at K-mart is $3.00 for a 12 oz, I could get six cans at the same price for one can of Tamiya primer and not only have more to last than one body but the Q/E is the best primer i've ever used and always lays down smooth. 

  3. Purple Power is for me babs! Not only does it take off chrome in less than 5 mins, but can strip off the worst and thickest of paints within 3 days or so. If the paint is Testors one coat lacquer or the icky enamel sprays, its about a day or so if it was applied without a primer underneath (with it, maybe a little longer).

  4. As i've been using it for many years, I too have experienced this "spider cracking" phenomenon over the course of a couple projects. I notice it has to do with the type of paint and how long it "cured". It doesn't matter if your paint is glossy or semi-gloss, it has to cure for at least a week or two even if its dry to touch. There were times I thought "the paint is super dry after two days so it must be cured enough" and applied it, after a few minutes it would crack like a mutha and caused repaints!


    I also notice it reacts very badly with Testors enamels and some of the one coat lacquers, so i'd give three or more weeks with curing with those.


    But overall, I get very good results and sometimes the cracking is very minor that I just ignore it. It cannot be any worse than my experiences with clear sprays that would fog like ship!

  5. I have never banned anyone from this forum.

    Sorry, I thought you did or have at one point, being you're an admin and have a big part in the MCM. I was only going by what a club member told me. May have been Gregg since he made topics clear of that.

  6. Someone told me that before the site redesign, several members got into fights with a guy called John Teresi, and then Gregg took down the chat feature and Harry went on a banning spree. But then for some reason it was put back in the redesign and no one knows why. I'm not wanting anyone in the chatroom badly, but I'm curious as to why its so empty now when 6 years ago (when I was very active on here), there were like 6-9 ppl in it.

  7. Works 4 me, but no one wants to talk and I just leave. Guess something happened and the rules got stricter so no one wants to get banned. Sorry if I don't know what happened, its been a while since I was here and it looks different for some reason.

  8. I don't want everyone to think i'm pooing this kit, it still looks very nice and its a sell for me since I missed out on the earlier Diecast issue. I'm just boggled at the production choices they are making when they have tooling available, that's all. When it comes out, someone is bound to do a part-by-part comparo between the die casts and the 68/9 for any tooling similarities.

    Like I said, ether way it looks much, much better than AMT's effort from 2004. Their 70', the Yenko Camaro, and the Mitsu Lancer were the worst to come out of AMT's F&F run. The Camaro being MPC's coupe retool from the 80s with dat wonky roof. The 350Z was OK-ish barring the low roof and the totally wrong wheels. Mustang was closer to the real thing being it also had the flat hood and the stock seats, but the wheels are wrong and the engine is meh being it uses the mustang's tranny. The Eclipse had the wrong engine (I think) and was alright overall, but Revell's renditions in generic tuner branding were much better IMO. The Gold Supra from 2F2F was a lazy repaint/decal job of the orange car, and the 70' Monte just had donk-like wheels thrown into the lowrider kit.

  9. From they way things may be going, its mind boggling that they would be doing a new tool 70' in F&F trim, yet they have the die cast or the plastic 68/9's to work from. But then, they did a new tool Snap-tite Crown Vic of the 1993 style yet Lindberg had one out for years and is still obtainable unlike the DC F&F 70', so it may not be as surprising as the first if they took this route again. I hope its more like the 68/9 kits in terms of detail and multi-piece parts, but there's a high chance it may be more Monogram-like with the 74 Torino and the 84 Cutlass (which is marked as a high end SE kit). Ether way, it has to be better than AMT's low-wattage effort, and if they say a stock version is planned, at least they're trying to listen to the replica stock and Mopar folks.

  10. I haven't seen any at BL for a while now, its mostly knock-off toys and electronics they sell now. Last time I saw models there, it was at the Centereach store in 2009 and they had 5 Revell Mitsu Eclipses and about 10 Willys Street Rods, all on $2.00 markdowns! I built two of the Eclipses and the Willys and traded in the rest at Daves Hobby in Freeport, NY for some goodies he had.

  11. I'll be bringin' about 15 completed builds or so, some a few of you have seen in the past but will be interesting in the flesh. I wonder if Charlie Larkin's going to be there? Haven't seen him in a while, plus i'd be great to see former LIARS members John "The Buzzard' and Richard Manson as well. I haven't been to the last two, so more the reason to get pumped up with builds lined up!

  12. I really don't think its an "all new tooling". I don't see it since Revell's reissuing a flawed Yenko Nova as is, and being they have the 68/9 and die cast tooling available. I have a feeling they ported the contents of the die cast version to plastic, or if they did spend some coin, they probably tooled a new body, grill, and such for the plastic 68/9 molds (speaking of grills maybe we'll have two, the open headlight from the diecast, and a new closed headlight one).

  13. Count me in for Revell's F&F 70' Charger! (maybe two of them) I pretty much assume its a plastic port of the 2002ish die cast that started out as the 68 Bullitt Charger (which is a modified 69' tool, both are nice kits BTW). I've been wanting one of their 70's, as the AMT one I built was horrid and the grill needed alot of work to look like its not on 69' fenders (not to mention a poor excuse for a blower among other problems), but they're rarer than the Eclipse and Civic in that line. Now, that's changed and since Tower Hobbies lists a June release, I'll nab em along with the AMT Tyrone Drag Truck and Papa Transporter thats also coming out.


    C7-R looks nice too! (the body that is... the frame gives me nightmares of the C6-R's blandness). If using the frame from the pre-painted kit, would make a wild street custom!

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