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Taxdude

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    227
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About Taxdude

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Saline, MI
  • Full Name
    Fred Farrand

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I have yet to put any finishes on this build. Maybe tomorrow I'll do the Mexican blanket seat cover (Scale Motor Sports decals). Just need to figure out a way to make it look bunched up or like someone sat in the driver's seat spot. I'm open to any ideas. And go!
  2. Some work on the dashboard. I filled the gauge opening with a piece of .030 sheet stock, still needs final sanding. Decided that the spacing between the gauges would be .030. Using a .097 punch the four holes were...well punched. The endgame here is that I wanted the gauges to be below the surface and the trim rings flush. To achieve this I punched out 4 disks, using a .087 punch from .010 stock and then the gauge faces, Model Car Garage, were epoxied to them (and yes the volts is backward, drats). Total size .015. I little fine tunning around the perimeter of each face and they drop right into the holes. The bar across the back sets the correct depth. The tach cup is a piece of aluminum tubing that has been slightly expanded at the opening to accept the gauge face and then polished. It will then be mounted on the steering column. can't decide on a steering wheel. Maybe a 40 Ford. The next thing to sort out is the windshield frame. I want the windshield to be kicked out at the bottom. To this, the frame is way to thick and a new piece of glass needs to be cut. I haven't decided if the frame can be sanded to half its width and then a lip installed to hold the glass or it a whole new frame scratch-built with a recessed area to accept the glass. Also, need to make the 2 hinges that hold the windshield out. At some point, big progress will be made. Quick build fail.
  3. So how much detail is too much? I spent a few minutes today using a 0.3mm drill to drill out the base of carbs for mounting hardware. This is for the visible mounting posts. So do I do the same for the posts under the float bowl? This is a detail that most will never see. The extra portion of the mounting stud will be cut off. It is just fun to do but I think I'll do the other ones. Man close-up pics are not kind to those carbs.
  4. Since I was changing the kit engine to a Y-block changes needed to be made. Also the engine is set back a bit since it is a touch bigger. So totally re-engineered motor mounts. But what a PITA. Getting all of the angles just right was very frustrating. However this is what I find truly enjoyable about building. It is also why I don't finish very many.
  5. Thanks. This is the 3rd version intake.
  6. I have contacted my lawyer and he said to accept your apology. The Hatfields and McCoys have yet to chime in....
  7. Time, the final frontier or lack thereof. Had some time again to work on the coupe. Build the motor mounts., rebuilt the motor mounts a bit smaller, launched a new better motor mount into the modeling unknowns, built one more. Looks like I'm going to have to order shorter bolts I also built a one-off intake. To convert the 2 barrel intake to one that could take two Stromberg 97's And a motor mount picture out of order.
  8. Hi Art, I'll try and put some pictures up in under glass this weekend
  9. I'll try and put some up in the underglass this coming weekend. My builds are timed not by days or months. But by the the changing of geological eras.
  10. With glue you need very little. Also after gluing or soldering I go back and sand off any excess. In order of use I go with tamiya liquid cement, 5 minute epoxy and CA last.
  11. Many thanks. My new mantra is "It is better to look scale than to be scale" To many times you see an engine compartment that has all scale hoses and line. But taken as a whole it looks toy like. If you go a bit smaller the the whole looks better.
  12. For brass to plastic I always use 5 minute epoxy for two reasons. 1-I like to work time of the epoxy. Especially when you have to make sure parts are in alignment. CA just kicks to fast. 2-I find that CA is much to brittle. Last thing you need is for two parts to pop apart. Also when gluing brass I score the mating surfaces in to give the glue something to grip to.
  13. Got some time to sort out the front suspension. Front and rear shocks are done all the way around. New lower shock mounts on the front axle The kit front shock and headlight mounts have been thinned down as they are too thick. Also added an extra lightening hole. Cowl side steering arm and drag arm. Rear end axle shock mounts had been completed and installed. Next step is to make some motors mounts and maybe a motor too.
  14. After a few days away I came back to build the rear shocks and mounts. Still needs to be finalized but posting what I have done keeps me going.