Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Toner283

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 05/24/1977

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Arthur, Ontario, Canada
  • Full Name
    Chris Tone

Recent Profile Visitors

8,061 profile views
  1. I should add to my above statement that what were minor assembly irritations for me may be major assembly frustrations for someone else. (I'm no smarter than anybody else, I have just spent lots of time dealing with poorly manufactured stuff) I have spent quite a few years working with and installing automotive aftermarket parts. Stuff where "bolt-on" never does without being re-engineered and Universal fit just means not designed to properly fit any vehicle yet manufactured. Having to finesse stuff to make it fit is just an accepted fact of life. 🤷‍♂️
  2. I don't have one exactly the same as that but I did get the little speedster from Speedway Motors. Looks a bit like a Model A Roadster. I bought mine pre-painted as we were on a deadline for our wedding and my little guy needed something to ride down the aisle in because he couldn't walk yet. My observations on the kit that I bought were: Take all of the hardware (nuts bolts washers) that came with the kit, save yourself the aggravation and pitch them. They are twist and toss offshore garbage. You just about get them tight and they either strip or they skip. That and the cheapy Chrome that was on the ones that came with the kit - after the car sat outside overnight after the wedding were rusty already in the morning. Hate to see what they look like after they've been the summer outside. Replace them with good quality mild steel bolts or if the pedal cars going to get played with a lot and be outside a lot, replace them with stainless. Minimal cost for the number of bolts and nuts etc that you need to buy. The ones on my son's pedal car are getting replaced now that the wedding is over with. As an added bonus, quality stainless Hardware can be polished to a pretty nice shine. Don't expect any two holes to line up while assembling the pieces. If they do it's a bonus. Several of the parts that I had the holes were not a big enough diameter for the provided nuts and bolts to go through. In addition to this, most of the holes were not round, off center, or both. A couple of the pieces, the hole pitch was off causing me to have to re-drill 1/2 a hole to get things to line up. Other than those minor assembly irritations, the car looked really cool at the wedding and was a big hit with both people taking pictures and other kids taking it for a ride after the ceremony. I can't wait for my little guy to get big enough to be actually be able to pedal it. My biggest advice if you were buying an unpainted one, would be to totally assemble it and make sure everything fits properly and runs smooth then blow it apart to paint it. That would save any nasty surprises and having to drill holes in the freshly painted body.🤯 I've been there and it's no fun. 😠😡🤬
  3. As an additional tip, I know you are wanting to Pro Street yours but for a stock/mildly modified car there is a better chassis available than the original one from the 69 Chevelle. The AMT 69 Olds W30 chassis is a direct drop in fit. Basically no modifications and it will go under the 69 Chevelle and give you a far better modern tooled chassis. Probably the 69 Hurst Olds will also work but I have never had one of those to be able to verify it.
  4. Don't use the search feature on the site. It's basically useless. Check out this thread that Ace Garage Guy posted and use the tips in it. Much better search results.
  5. The old monogram 40 Ford truck kit has a chrome fire extinguisher in it. It also has some Chrome tools and a first aid kit as well.
  6. Opening everything, poor/sloppy hinges, poor door to body fit and generally fiddly to build. Designed and tooled along the same lines as their 55 56 and 57 Chevy opening everything kits. A nice model can be built of it with a bunch of work but it can be very frustrating for a young or an inexperienced builder. Definitely not a shake the box and have a completed model fall out type of kit.
  7. A drop or two of clear paint works good as well for attaching PE emblems to the outer body of a model car or truck. Basically just enough to "glue" the emblem down.
  8. The "vents" on a 67 Chevelle SS hood are there for looks only, there are no actual holes through the hood. The only thing on the bottom of the hood is where the studs come through that the stamped steel nuts thread onto to hold the "vents" in place. They are slightly curved to match the curve of the power bulges or blisters in the hood. (depends on who you ask what they are called) FWIW, the vents on 66 and 67 SS Chevelles are phony and the 68 and 69 SS Chevelles are functional. On all of them the Super Sport hoods have the power bulges and the base model hoods are flat. This is first hand knowledge as my father has owned a 67 Chevelle since 68 (and still has it) and I have a 69 Chevelle.
  9. Thanks! I also spent several years professionally building hot rods and modified cars. Getting paid to work on other people's six and seven-figure cars was a lot of fun but I found that I got burnt out and as a result, I wasn't working on my own projects. The last thing I wanted to do when I got home was go out and work on my own cars after having worked on cars all day. Took a bit of time after I left the shop I worked at, but I've got my fire reignited to work on my own projects now and I'm slowly getting work accomplished on them again as time and money allows. With three young kids at home time can be the most difficult commodity to come across. Here is a couple of my toys.
  10. Thanks! In the 1:1 world, a Deuce frame is not flat on the top. However, a model A body is flat on the bottom. So, in order to mate the two you have to either build a spacer to fill the gap or modify the model a body to sit down flush on the top of the Deuce frame rail. However, the model kit is engineered so that the top of the deuce frame is flat so that the interior and such fits easily. To mate the roadster body to it, I had to sand out a couple of lumps and bumps and tooling marks and had to thin down the body sides slightly at the cowl if I remember correctly. This is also where removing the original rear wheel wells from the Roadster body came into play. A stock Model A frame is flat on the top from front to back. A Deuce frame has the kick up where the frame rails curve up and over the rear end. Quite often in 1:1, hot rodders either slightly "pinch" the rear of a deuce frame to fit inside the model A body or they modify the rear wheel wells of the model A body to follow the contour of the Deuce frame similar to what I have done here. To fix this in scale and make it look good, I used the rear wheel wells from the Deuce kit that mate with the kick up over the rear end and attached those to the model A body. To anyone unfamiliar with the Revell Deuce series of kits, they can be built either full fendered or highboy style (fenderless). To facilitate this, the deuce bodies have no molded in rear fender wells. And the modeller either uses the fenders to fill the rear wheel wells or an optional set of rear fender wells for the hi boy version. I used these fender wells and modified them to fit the AMT 29 roadster body. I feel that it worked out well and it looks like the roadster body is supposed to be on that frame. Sorry for the long winded explanation, but I hope that answers your question. 🙂
  11. I built this one after building Revells new 29 Model A Roadster and not being 100% happy with the proportions of it. Something just looked off to my eye. So, with this one I started with the chassis and running gear out of Revells 32 Ford 5 window kit. The chassis is built essentially box stock although 90% of a chrome has been removed in favour of paint. The front spring has been modified and recessed into the front crossmember to drop the front another four or five scale inches. Both front and rear axles have had backing plates added to have drum brakes rather than the kit disc brakes. The backing plates are either from the Revell 29 Ford kit or the RM 40 Ford kit. I don't remember for sure which kit I pirated them from. The hemi is box stock except a scratchbuilt 4 deuce intake with 4 of the strombergs and air cleaners from the Revell 29 ford roadster kit. No wiring or additional detailing was done to the Hemi. Just paint detailing since this is just a shelf model. The biggest difference is the rear wheels. To me, the offset on the steelie rear wheels of Revell's 5 window looks goofy. The centre of the rim is way too close to the outside of the tire. A hot rod with wide wheels should have a deep set rear rim. To fix this, I used the wheel backs from another set of front wheels from a second 5W kit, the wheel backs from a set of the front torque thrust wheels that are included in the kit, and the original rear wheels to scratch build a proper looking set of deep rear wheels. I removed the centre portion from the Torq Thrust wheel back and sanded it smooth where I removed the spokes and used that as a new outer rim and attached it to the kit steel wheel. Shaved the back side of the kit steel wheel down to narrow it a fair bit, and then used the second set of front wheel backs to deepen the offset even more. Looks like a proper hot rod wheel now. I mostly only used the body and interior of the AMT 1929 ford roadster. I feel it is better proportioned than the newer revell offering. One exception was that I used the 1940 ford dash from the 5W kit with Crystal Clear canopy glue to act as a gauge face rather than the kit piece. I also used a straight pin bent into a curve to make a swan neck shifter. I removed the original rear wheel wells and instead used the wheelwells from the 5W kit to make the body sit down nicely over the frame. I sectioned the grille shell and the grille from the Deuce kit to make the body lines flow nicely. I also trimmed down the recessed firewall from the Deuce kit to fit the smaller roadster body and to make room for the Hemi. Questions and comments always welcome.
  12. Far from it. I also for years have thought that the 35 was a far more attractive car than the 36. And the 36 is also a far from ugly design.
  13. If Moebius ( or any other manufacturer for that matter) were to to tool up a modern 1/25 scale issue of the square body Chevy pickup, I believe that those would sell extremely well right now. Square body pickups are hotter than they have ever been in the one to one market. The old 1/24th scale MPC/Monogram/Revell kits certainly show their age, they're kind of finicky to build/paint cleanly and the detail on them is very poor. With a new tooled kit there are multiple different options for additional releases ( short box/long box/stepside/utility box, regular/crew cab, two-wheel drive/four-wheel drive, lifted/lowered, round/square/four headlights, etc) and endless possibilities for build variations. I can understand I'm manufacturers reluctance to risk the $$ to tool up and release a kit of something obscure (as has been stated several times, the Moebius Hudson releases surprised a lot of us and how well it did in sales was also a surprise) but something as common and ubiquitous as a square body Chevy pickup, I'm shocked that no one has released a modern tool kit of it yet. I would bet that most of us either have owned a square body Chevy pickup or know several people who have owned them. Personally, I have owned six or seven of them and still own three. Manufacturers, if you're reading this, please start with an '86 regular cab long box 2-wheel drive. 😁
  14. Another vote for Tamiya smoke. You can add coats until it looks right depending on whether you're looking for show chrome or older patina'd Chrome.
  • Create New...