When I got mine the guy from touch-n-flow told me that you had to put the non hypodermic end in the bottle of glue and let capillary action pull the glue up into the tube. then turn it over and let the glue flow down the glass tube to the hypodermic end. The plast-I-weld glue that comes with the touch and flow system I use for 90 percent of my glueing now. it is very very thin almost water like consistency and it actually melts the parts together for a permanent bond. if the hypodermic tip happens to clog with plastic (very common) I was told just put the hypodermic and in the glue for a couple of minutes and it will clear it. As Ace said some of them come with a little squeeze bottle to force air into the tube. that is also helpful for clearing a clogged tip.I have also found that sometimes when the glue gets down to the hypodermic end it does not want to flow easily out of the tip, I give it a slight flick with the end of my finger and that seems to get the glue down to the very tip.
I'd be happy if they were to release all of the main body and interior parts (minus the fender/frame unit) as a parts pack. Just make those parts available and I'll do the rest. I'd buy at least a case of them.
The kit supplied chrome reverse rims fit very nicely into the tires from any of the Revell Deuce kits. Those tires are much nicer than the kit supplied ones. In addition the modelhaus also has those Revell deuce tires recast with whitewall inserts. They look great with the chrome reverse wheels supplied in the deuce roadster kit you are working on.
The camper from the vintage box art reissue of the 65 elcamino is the same camper that was in the "Elcamino Camper" issue of the 59. AFAIK that was the only boxing of the 59 to have the camper shell included. The vintage box art reissue of the 65 elcamino has both the camper shell and the bed cap included in it.
I have worked on this one. The owner (and editor of Canadian Hot Rods Magazine) is friends with the owner of one of the shops I worked for. It came in for some work to be done for an article in the magazine. The front clip is a one piece fiberglass lift off unit. Cool car.
I just went out into the garage and measured my real all henry steel 1929 tudor. On the body just below the fuel tank in the cowl just as it transitions from the flat hood sides to the rounded hood top it is 32 3/4 inches wide. Same place on the rad shell where it transitions from the flat hood sides to the rounded hood top it is 22 inches wide.
Those measurements should be the same for coupe/roadster or tudor in 1928 and 1929. 4-door bodies were custom built by two different manufacturers and the measurements will be different at the cowl. The rad shell should be the same. 1930 & 1931 measurements are different than 1928/29. The cars got slightly wider in the 1930/31's
That one isn't the same kit. The one in question is a 53. The one with the Roth artwork is a 56. It is one of the old Revell "opening everything" kits that give a lot of people (myself included) fits of frustration trying to build a decent model out of it.