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jsimmons

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    john simmons

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  1. I used to live in Hyattsville, on Naragansett Parkway - back in the 60's...
  2. Well, let's see... I keep a pistol and at least three spare mags on the end table, so that means the first 21 people that come to my door to take my guns is going to end up in a bloody heap on the front porch. I figure it'll take them long enough to clear the obstruction at the front door for me to get my rifle and another 12 spare mags (six 20's and six 30's). I figure 300 rounds of "we the people" will hold them off for a little while longer at least.
  3. I don't get upset. I simply redouble my resolve.
  4. I thought I'd post a picture of why we're here, and the tools I use to defend why we're here: All I need now is a flag that say "Can't Tread on Me".
  5. I found out that not only is the chassis from the Glidden pro-stock T-bird has the correct wheelbase for the Revell 1965, 1966, and 1970 Mustangs, but the wheelbase is also correct for the 19664 Thunderbolt Fairlane. All of the cars require the engine compartments to be removed and the chassis roll cage to be modified, and the Fairlane requires a little material removal at the top/rear of the wheel tubs for the chassis to tuck up under there. Now, if only we could convince Revell to re-issue the Glidden kit so we can stop having to pay eBay eScam prices. I currently have two with a 3rd one one the way.
  6. The foam gaskets have always melted on me - even with MM enamel that came from a jar (as opposed to being decanted). I simply don't use them any more (nor plastic lids). I have a dozen bottles, and they all now wear metal lids with cork gaskets. When I decant, I just put the lid on top of the jar without screwing it on. That allows the gas to escape, yet keeps particulate matter from entering the jar (the next time a wasp flies into the garage and lands in my paint as I'm decanting, I'll snap a picture of it.
  7. Instead of using the camera's timer (I have a Canon PowerShot S-3IS), I connect my camera to a laptop and use the software provided by Canon, make my adjustments via that software, and even snap the picture. I don't have to touch the camera, once it's on the tripod. I also plug the camera into the wall instead of relying on batteries because then it doesn't turn itself off between shots.
  8. When you're building a model car, you either go for "realism" or "artistic freedom". Sometimes, you can successfully mix both. It's much more difficult to go the realism route. At the same time, all of the stuff you mentioned are a reality in show cars. Personally, I'm pretty boring and not very artistic, so most of my (street car) models will have a semi-gloss black chassis and engine compartment, gunmetal suspension, and most likely a black interior. Further, they'll sit the way I like - realism be damned. All I have to do now is finish one.
  9. I leave mine sitting for three hours. When the moisture has dried from the outside of the bottle, it's pretty much good to go. To keep "things" from getting into the paint as it gases out, I place the lid on the jar without screwing it on. That way, I don't have to touch the jar trying to put tape on it - just touching the jar is enough to make the paint boil if it's not properly gassed out because of the heat from your fingers.
  10. I started the model with the KA stuff, and decided I didn't like the car. Here's the WIP page: Revell GT-500KR WIP I've cut out the grills and assembled the brake rotors, but other than that, I haven't touched it in three months. One of these days I'll get back to it, but probably not before next year. The PE stuff is pretty nice, and appears to fit the car very well. I got mine from StradaSports.com
  11. That's the easy part: Parts Preparation (including how to remove parts from sprue, removing mold lines, etc) Painting Decals General Assembly Tips (what types of glue to use, etc) Detailing Engines Detailing Interior Suspension Modifications Parts Sources Supplies and Tools
  12. Not with your spelling skills (or lack thereof)... It's "Techniques" (and while I'm here, you spelled "section" incorrectly as well).
  13. Yeah - the Badger paint jars with the black plastic caps come with those foam gaskets, and the solvent in the paint causes them to melt into the paint. I ended up buying a bunch of Paasche metal lids with the right kind of gaskets. What a pain. That's not going to solve his problem with melting lid gaskets...
  14. I've always had a problem with "Eleanor" because it's not a real Shelby (nobody in their right mind would do that to a real Shelby), even though it's billed as one in the movie from which it originates. I also think the "Eleanor" front-end treatment sucks donkey balls from the hood scoop all the way down to the bottom of the front air dam. That being said, you did some real nice work there. The blue is very nice. Your yellow problem is that the camera is forgetting its white balance settings for some reason. You can fix that with some post-processing of the photo in PhotoShop or PaintShop Pro.
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