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About Tucohoward

  • Rank
    MCM Regular

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  • Scale I Build

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  • Location
    Laurel, MD
  • Full Name
    Jay Howard
  1. Moving along on the engine. Valve covers, distributor cap and plug wires on. Also extra fuel line for cowl mounted fuel pressure gauge on this particular car. Jay
  2. Thanks, Cameron. I have checked out your build and it looks great! Tonight I worked on throttle return springs and finishing up the fuel line. I just use strands of copper wire stripped out of extra speaker wire and PE brackets attached with a dab of Future. Hopefully it holds. Looks a little rough under extreme magnification but I think it's ok for normal viewing. Jay
  3. I will be caught up with this post. Worked on the carbs and fuel line. The kit parts have very little detail so I added the tube between the bowls, the throttle shaft with PE linkage attachment points, fittings for the fuel lines to connect to, and then the linkage on the manifold. The fuel line is a single piece of soft wire with filters and fittings from drilled out styrene rod and strip. Jay
  4. I am trying to get caught up to where I actually am on this build. The body requires a fair amount of work to get more correct. The rear wheel wells were filed to shape from pictures, although there was a fair amount of variation on the real ones. The rain gutters and window moldings were sharpened up with a scriber. The rear window molding detail is pretty soft so it was replaced with styrene strip. Emblems, lights, and antenna mount were sanded off the front fenders and the rear panel line was extended to the edge of the body. The blower motor was sanded off and the battery area removed and replaced with styrene sheet to resemble the right side. Painted with a mix of Mr. Color. Jay
  5. Thanks guys. Joe, the Grandt Line stuff is available from them directly. I used to get it from other online hobby stores but I can't remember which ones and I checked Sprue Bros. and they didn't have it. I like that they are plastic, not resin, so they can be glued with regular glue. The interior was next up. The door panels were modified to more closely resemble the real ones. The seats are replaced with AM resin units. I will have to fabricate a shifter console since this is an automatic. Jay
  6. One of the first things I wanted to correct was the intake manifold. The kit intake has the carbs at different levels when they should be even. I cut off the right side of the manifold, cut a slice off the bottom and grafted it back on. Hustlin' Hemi is an auto tranny car and the kit comes as a 4-speed. The manual transmission was cut off and a resin automatic from MAD was used to replace it. It's just a copy of the Revell part, but I had one so it was easier than cutting one off another engine/ trans assembly. The automatic cars came with a 8 3/4 rear instead of the Dana in the kit. I wanted to use the Hemi springs however so I had to cut out the center section and swap them. I drilled it all out and ran a brass rod through it for strength and ease of alignment. Grandt Line nuts and bolts were used to detail it. Jay
  7. I did get a couple things worked. The rear bumper is on and the brake master cylinder. There was not a lot of room to get the master cylinder in and required sanding down the firewall and the adapter plate that the Hemi cars used to relocate it due to clearance issues with the large engine. In the meantime I have decided to build another Hemi Dart, the Hustlin' Hemi. There are definitely some things I learned on this one that I want to do differently. Jay
  8. It's been almost three years since I put this one aside due to various issues. I keep it on my bench just because I like it, but I would like it better if I could finish it. At this point I am not sure I even remember all the problems, but I am sure they will become readily apparent. Anyhow, this is where it stands currently. I have already fixed the problem of it sitting on three wheels by relocating one of the front stub axles. Jay
  9. Thanks guys, I really appreciate the comments. Right now it's trying my patience. The body doesn't sit down on the chassis in the front. It appears that the dash is holding it up on left side and it looks like it is too far forward when looking down through the windshield. Last night I cut off the mounting lug for the dash on the left side and reglued it father back. I let the glue set up overnight so I'll try it again tonight. Has anyone else had this issue with this kit?
  10. Slow progress, but I finally managed to get the tach installed. I think this means I can put the body on the chassis. Hey, I may even finish this someday. Of course I've been trying to paint the hood for a week or two and haven't gotten a good result yet.
  11. Really nice work Geoff! Looking forward to seeing more. Love your BMF application.
  12. For me money has nothing to do with it. Cars are very inexpensive compared to other things I build, but I invest a lot of time and energy into everything I build so it has to be a subject I really like.
  13. Thanks for the comments guys. The small wires are just strands of copper wire from scrap wiring and then painted. The thicker red wire is .010 solder.
  14. Some small progress. Finished the left side engine compartment wiring harness. Doesn't look like much but it took a while. Kept losing tiny parts. I think it's enough to give the illusion of wiring when combined with the right side on the engine already.
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