Kit Basher

At least one online seller has it shown as "early September".

I know even less about Macs than I do about PCs, which is almost nothing. It sounds like you're getting set up to make almost anything. I hope you come up with some cool products and make a lot of money!

It's interesting you mentioned school computers. The one I am using came from a school surplus sale. They removed the hard drives before they sold them. I bought a new hard drive and installed Windows XP from a disc I had from an old computer. I also had to download the drivers for that brand of computer. I'm not sure what the most recent OS that will work is, I know XP works. The biggest problem is the printer connection. The ALPS uses the old parallel port connector which most newer computers don't have. I looked at getting a parallel to USB adapter, but the reviews led me to believe they are junk. I also had to download the ALPS drivers for XP, I found them on the internet somewhere. My ALPS is a 1300, and I don't know if the drivers I have would work for a 5500, but if you can't find the drivers, maybe I can send you what I have. I hope there's some useful info in there somewhere.

I got a kick out of this, maybe you will too.

I did not realize you would be using multiple computers. Plus, if you have the same situation I do, where I have to use an antique desktop to run my ALPS printer, I understand why a wired connection would be better.

Assuming you have a wireless router and computer, have you tried taking a computer out to your shop, and accessing your wireless network? Wi-Fi carries surprisingly long distances sometimes. No cables required.

Doh! I didn't even think of that .It would have been a great idea earlier on. I don't want to leave exposed wires on the bed, but the braces on the bed are hollow, and I could have put wires inside them before I glued on the side braces. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll keep that in mind if I have future problems.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'm a little hesitant to just wing it. I've already put a lot of time and effort into this kit. Still, I will probably do some experiments, I'll let you know how it goes.

I've added some photos to my original post to show what I'm up against. I think you are right about the cause of the warp. One of the sprues is also badly warped, but the parts are still usable.

Thanks for your reply. My tap water is about 114 F. Is that hot enough? The truck bed is too large (about 5" x 7" x 4") to hold in place with my hands. I can see making a wooden buck to fit inside the bed to hold it in shape while it's heated. Is there some temperature/ duration where the plastic will lose its memory and accept its new shape?

I'm working on the AMT Payhauler 350. The dump bed is badly warped. I've attached most of the bracing to it, holding it in the proper shape while doing so. I had hoped the bracing might correct the warp. No such luck. Is there any way to permanently correct the warp? I've heard about using hot water, but I have no idea about temperature or duration. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm adding some photos to show my problem. Originally, the bed floor was humped up. By clamping the floor flat as I added the bottom braces, I was able to pretty much fix that problem, although those bottom braces are still under some stress. The result of flattening the bottom was to pull the sides in, as you can see in the photos. The side braces did not correct that problem. The side braces are not 100% glued, and with clamping and gluing might help to straighten the sides, but those braces would also be under some stress. I am hoping to remove that stress.

Have you considered sending it back to Badger? I recently sent them my old 200. It cost me $16 for return postage, and they completely rebuilt it.

Pearl Ex powder mixed with your clear is another option. It comes in many colors.

That's a masterpiece. Amazing work in every way.

Nicely done, Carl!