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Kit Basher

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Everything posted by Kit Basher

  1. That's good to know. I've had the sealers work OK on bare plastic, but not involving masking. It would be a bummer to pull your tape off and have your whole paint job come with it.
  2. Auto Air recommends priming with Auto Borne sealers. The advantage is that your primer can be a similar color to your paint. Since these colors are a bit transparent, that way you need less paint. Auto Borne comes in a variety of colors, as well as a set of primary colors with white and black, so you can mix any color you want. For clear, just try out your favorite clear (on a test subject), I bet it will work. For drying, they say do not use heat. I use a double action airbrush. Spray a mist coat of paint, then dry it with just air from the airbrush. The paint dries pretty fast, so you really don't have to put down the airbrush. Paint it, dry it, paint it, dry it, pretty soon you're done!
  3. I think that one was Duplicolor "Perfect Match" clear, but almost any clear will work. BTW, I think "Wicked" is also made by Createx, but might be easier to use since it is not intended for 1:1 automotive use.
  4. I have sprayed a fair amount of Auto Air, with pretty good results. There is a bit of a learning curve, and I suggest you download the "Hard Surface Application Guide" from their website. Some of their colors require adding a "balancing clear" before thinning, and others do not. I also use their thinner. They have some amazing colors, especially in the pearls and metallics. Good luck and have fun! This Ford was painted with one of their "Sparklescent" colors.
  5. X2. Taklon seems to give the best finish with acrylic paints, and seem to hold up better to washing with water. Also, load your brush so you can get full coverage in one stroke, if possible. For larger surfaces use a larger brush. The more you brush it, the more brush strokes you will have. Most paints will self level if left alone.
  6. Wow! I'm glad I didn't have to pay that for mine!
  7. That is nice. Everything is clean and sharp. Excellent craftsmanship!
  8. OK, because inquiring minds want to know... I read thru the whole brochure. Nowhere does it say what "pla" means.
  9. I just noticed that the tube of glue says "15 cent size". How times have changed! It looks like it could be used, but I think I'll keep it as is.
  10. I have always built both. I am an airplane nut as well as a car nut. I don't build aircraft to the level of detail and accuracy that real aircraft modellers do, just shelf models. Then again, I don't build cars to the level that real car modellers do either. I like having an aircraft and a car going at the same time. It gives me something to do while paint/glue is drying, and I don't get confused about what parts go with what.
  11. I'm starting on an original issue of the Monogram 1/72 B-52. I found this inside, thought some of you might be interested.
  12. Thanks, David! Thanks, Mattias!
  13. So, I've been doing the toothpick thing. I tried shaping a toothpick to a sort of "chisel tip", and touching the nibs at an angle. I had better control after sanding a toothpick square across, leaving a flat end about 1/32", and touching straight down onto the nibs. Because I'm working on clear parts, I had to put blue tape on the back side to help me see the rivets. I still had to move the parts around quite a bit because the rivets are really only visible when the light hits them at a certain angle. The hardest part has been getting just the right amount of paint on the toothpick. Thanks to all you kind gentlemen, I may get this task accomplished, at least to my satisfaction. Here are some pics, what do you guys think?
  14. Sorry, Joe. I must have misunderstood the website. I thought those rivets were for adding rivets where they did not exist, sort of like a 3D decal. Are they more like a colored decal to go on existing rivets?
  15. Thanks, Joe. The rivets are already there, I just need to paint them. I tried the toothpick method, and it seems like it is going to work. I will need to refine my technique and practice, but I might get there. Many thanks to all who chimed in to help! I only have to do the side windows, rear glass, and headlight covers, maybe 50 rivets. (Where is the "pulling out your hair" emoji?) If I succeed, I will post pics of the results. Thanks again!
  16. Thanks, Tom. Yes, the parts are clear. As far as flattening a toothpick, did I mention these nibs are tiny? I mean, they are TINY! The point of a round toothpick is bigger than those nibs. I agree with you and the others that a toothpick is probably the way to go, but I think I'm going to need a whole lot of luck!
  17. Thanks, everyone! So it sounds like there's no foolproof way to do this. (I could use foolproof, I'm a fool!) Just be careful and be prepared to clean up my mistakes. I think I would use enamel, my experience with acrylics is they dry too fast to clean up completely. The mechanical pencil idea is interesting, I may give that a try.
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