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    Andy Martin

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    Andy Martin

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  1. Aardvark here! I am still around although on the back, back burner. I still have most of the Model T stuff, none of the funny car stuff. I still have some of the decals. There are no more Firebird III or Maserati kits or parts. I will be redoing the Metzeler tire kit for the Revell choppers soon. There will be more of the Mini pickup, panel and woody conversions, too. I let my website go a few years back. I couldn't justify the expense and it also went quickly out of date and I didn't know how to change it. I do on occasion sell on Ebay user name modelmartin. Best bet to contact me is by email - modelmartin@comcast.net. It takes me a bit to get back to people but I eventually do. I definitely do sell bits and pieces and am always willing to do what I can for folks! Thanks for everyone's interest. Andy Martin
  2. Someone should snap this up and take it to GSL - class winner for sure! https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-24-1-25-Custom-Cord-1930s-Vintage-Classic-Roadster-yellow-for-parts-restore/111939307709?hash=item1a101a48bd%3Ag%3ACLIAAOSwvgdW6sie&_pgn=2&_sacat=2580&_nkw=cord&_from=R40&rt=nc
  3. I second Art's advice and will add to it. Both Art and I are long time resin casters and builders. I also find that simply wet sanding your resin partsgets rid of the so- called "Release Agent". Here is another tip. Use an airbrush and spray one or two light coats of paint. Don't lay down wet coats on the resin. It will fisheye. Spray can paints have extra solvents in it to keep it more sprayable for longer shelf life. Those are what cause the fisheyes. I have sprayed dry film mold release on a body and shot paint on it from an airbrush as soon as it flashed off which was about 20 seconds. It was just fine. Basically if you are having problems with paint on resin you are seeing the interaction between the waxy surface of the resin and all the extra solvents in your canned spray paints. That also applies to decanted spray paints that are airbrushed.
  4. Last year I acquired the Mini-Exotics Cord L-29 Convertible coupe masters. They need a fair amount of rework and I do intend to kit it. I can't honestly say when that is going to happen but it will. It could take a few years.
  5. Most would say Heller sucks but the real deal is that some are pretty decent and some are horrible. They are very different from normal kits. They usually have pretty accurate shapes but sometimes the detail is poor or the kit engineering is bizarre. One needs patience with them. I don't know if the Revell one is original tooling or if it is a re-boxed Heller. If you really want a 2CV get the Tamiya kit.
  6. I know the exact sketches you are talking about. I have that issue. It was earl70s Rod &Custom. I think I can dig that one out and scan it. Those were awesome sketches! I love Ed newton's Stuff. I got to master the Triclopz, Mercohaulic and Rareflow for Jimmy Flintstone's Testors kits and those were Ed's designs. I got to talk to him once about them. He seemed like a real cool guy. Then Hot Wheels put them out.
  7. Not possible. I do like the Chrysler/Lambo Pentabull combo! I once built a Porsche 9/57 - 959 with 57 Chev nose/tail and fins!
  8. Being a serious Bugatti fan I can say you did a great job of the Heller. If you are interested I will be producing a resin conversion for the Surprofilee'. It will include modified Fenders and body shell. I also have some very nice T50 wheels which I will be selling which were mastered by Vince Lobosco and further modifed by me. I should have them ready early next year. I sell on Ebay user name - Modelmartin
  9. It would definitely be in the /MSP class. AA with the big bown engine. I don't know if there was a wheelbase restriction. Altered required a 25% engine setback. That Vespa was built and run as a bracket car. It used to run at Rockford back in the late 70s through the 80s.
  10. Milliput or other epoxy putties are best when there is a certain thickness to it. They don't like to be feather-edged too much. I use it for building up shapes, filling larger gaps and holes. Use regular spot putty for blends and featheredging. Spot putty is merely thickened primer. If your epoxy putty does not cure it is because of poor mixing or cold temps killing the cure. It does not "dry", it cures from a chemical reaction between the two parts. I use epoxy on resin, plastic, Renshape, metals, etc. It's all good. Use a thin layer of spot putty over your "ghosting" problem. The hot chemicals in the paint just raised the grain of the plastic where the trim was. Hope this helps.
  11. I built several out of the box and they were really easy to build and looked great without any tweaking.
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