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64SS350

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About 64SS350

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 12/31/1968

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/24

Profile Information

  • Location
    ohio
  • Full Name
    Karl Bates

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  1. I know, what's the sense of having a stash if you can't get to them! But this build has pushed my building skills to higher levels.
  2. Thanks, it just stinks because these are commission builds, that I have to give them up when they are done. At least I made one show with the first one, hope to get these done in time also.
  3. Didn't take it personally...just know that some guys are super anal about scale and correctiveness to matching 1:1. And didn't think about the price breakdown per gallon as pointed out, that's definitely good money!
  4. As I said, email him. He pours per orders received. Try to get pic later. Posted in 'what did you get today' awhile back, maybe do a search.
  5. Granted the metallic is "not to scale" if you will, but I can get 4oz. of color (even straight colors) for as much as 1 small bottle from the other guys.
  6. Yes, just be sure to use an automotive type primer under it. Like Duplicolor or the like. Many have even used base coat/clear coat. Actually, MCW paints are PPG based. Here's a couple of mine
  7. Yes, just have to check his website, but email him.
  8. Started working on misc. to break it up, but soon realized I need to start with frames. Deleted exhaust from both a little differently this time, a lot easier.
  9. The one Camaro 2in1 kit has the Minilites , there not bad. I have some from Fireball Motorworks, and of course.... they're great. Check his website out!
  10. I always use a hairdryer, you can regulate the heat with settings and the distance from the work piece and duration of heat applied. Can also go back to tweek if need more movement, a little at a time is best so as not to crack surrounding areas. Also heat surrounding areas slightly ( ie: a body) for the same reason and also to help these areas change their memory also. I have noticed resin tends to need way less heat than styrene, again a little at a time. Also, if warping isn't bad, when finished with each round of heat, hit with some cool air. If working with a heavily warped piece, you can let heat come down more slowly, then maybe some cool air. Just play with it to develop the technique.
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