I know the fellow who's doing those military figures. He's using a rather inexpensive EnvisionTEC DLP resin machine (inexpensive compared to other industrial 3D printers, that is) that is normally used for jewelry and dental work. The 3D printing is the easy part of what he's doing, though. The real trick to his process is that instead of sculpting the figures, he's scanning real people, wearing the correct uniforms/outfits. So the result is his figures are much more accurate and lifelike than any sculpted figure could ever be. There are limitations, of course-- chiefly, the object you want to recreate has to exist in real life in some physical form or another. A sculptor or designer can create a 3D model from nothing but his imagination, but the scanning process needs something tangible to start with. Even with scanning the people to get the 3D model, there is still hours spent editing the 3D models for printing. Scanning is not a "shake & bake" solution.
Sorry, I don't want to hijack Ken's thread, but I'll answer this quickly: The wheels I have done are the 85-87 version. I can do the 88-90 version wheel, but it would only be 16"-- I would never want an IROC-Z with the 15" wheels, LOL!
Beautiful job! It makes me want to finish up my 1/24 scale conversion set for the Monogram Z28. I've made all-new 16" wheels & Gatorbacks and fog lamps, and converted the kit's front fascia. Basically all I need to finish is the decal set. Maybe add a TPI setup, too.
Are you referring to the Vallejo paint that Hobby Lobby has been carrying for about a year? It's extremely good paint that is intended for hand-brushing but can be thinned for airbrushing as well. Definitely better than the cheaper craft paints. Or are you talking about the Createx Colors and Wicked Colors airbrush paints that come in a 2oz bottle that looks similar to the cheap craft paint? Again, those are good paints for their intended purpose and worth the extra expense.
I've always perceived the biggest complaint to be "why isn't XYZ available?" or possibly, "I wish there were a better XYZ available." 3D-based manufacturing goes a long way to solving both those problems. We are still years away from replacing mass-marketed kits with printing your own 3D-derived models at home. The 3D technology available now allows manufacturers (small and large) to more bring better quality models to the market in a shorter amount of time than ever before. It also opens up a whole new avenue of creativity to those people who are willing to take a risk. Some model builders are content to just build whatever is on the shelf at the local Hobby Lobby, but I've never been that kind of modeler.
@crowe-t: I think I used old Metalizers when I painted the motor/trans. I don't recall using any Alclads, but I could be wrong. It's been about a year. The goal of the exercise was to simulate a motor that had been in a street car for about 10 years and had accumulated some grime and discoloration. The turbo's heat shield is a bit overdone-- it should never get that dirty.
@gearhedjon: The Turbo TA's setup was similar to the 84-85 Buick hot air turbo, but the latter was fuel-injected. The Turbo TA was in fact very close to the older carbureted Buick turbo. If the hood is closed, there's no need for me to get all OCD about the details on the motor!
Oh, man, this old thread came back to life just like a walker on "The Walking Dead"
Not much more ever happened with these models, unfortunately. There was just never enough time left over after meeting all my other obligations to work on my own models. Still isn't! Plus, my OCD makes it difficult to complete things I really care about (I always re-do things and I'm never quite satisfied). On the plus side, I've been able to share some of the work I did on these models in the form of my Eagle GT tire and Vector wheel sets.
But I did build a turbo 3.8 motor last year just as a little excercise:
Here is the future of figure modeling and it's available right now if you have the funds:
A fellow in France is printing these figures on a high-end Envisiontec printer. Even though you can see some faint grow lines, the quality and detail is just perfect. The grow lines will disappear under paint. What is really absurd about these figures is that they aren't sculpted in 3D-- they are made from 3D scans of real people dressed in period uniforms. Just a couple of years ago, this would be virtually impossible to do on a hobby scale, but the advances in 3D scanning and the software to process the scans has put this kind of quality within reach of hobbyists. The figures still aren't cheap; a typical 1/32 figure is around $23, but that is well within the budget for professional modelers and serious hobbyists. With one stroke, my French friend has made both miniature sculptors and miniature casters redundant. Of course, if you want to model something that doesn't exist in the real world-- a troll warrior for instance-- you'll need a creative person to construct your model.
What does this mean for car modelers? Scanning a person is really, really easy. Scanning a car isn't easy at all, unless you just want a solid model (like the ones Ford recently started offering). But if you have access to the real, original parts, anything can be reproduced in small scale with a high degree of accuracy. The fundamental part of this process is having the real thing sitting in front of you, and secondly, having the money to do it all.
Is it too late to get your money back on that little compressor? It's really not at all suited for your application. If you need really, really quiet operation, get yourself a CO2 tank. If you need just "sort of quiet," there are several small compressors with tanks from Badger, Paasche, and Iwata that will serve you much better.
Also, a tank pressurized to 12psi cannot output at 32psi.